I have a camera I like, but a problem with it. I took a few indoor photos and it took awhile to get enough light arranged for them. When I put the camera's SD card in the card reader and looked at the photos they looked great. I copied the photos to a folder then deleted everything on the card to get it ready for the next photos.
Then when I look at the photos from the desktop folder, they are much darker. I don't do this a lot but it has happened at least once before, and I think it does that all the time. Possible to just lighten photos with Gimp?
I did find a page that said you could, but it is probably an old page, at brighten dark photo with Gimp. It instructs me to Quote:Duplicate the original image layer in the layers dialog. Change the Mode of this duplicated layer to Value -mode to use this layer for a retouching brightening of colors.
When I create a duplicate layer, click on image, hover over mode, none of the options are value. Maybe that was for an older version of Gimp? The page doesn't have a date which isn't nice.
What the problem might be between the Canon view, and the windows 7 view? Is there something I can tweak in 7?
Edit: I found it in the colors > brightness and contrast, but maybe I can leave this up in case someone knows how to stop the darkening from happening in the first place. The photo quality isn't as good as it was in the Canon folder.
I have made a couple pretty nice text images, for friends, and myself. Many times this text image will have a border and consequently a transparency along a corner of the image because they are not always perfectly rectangle.
The problem is the images keep saving with a fine white line at the corner's of my image. How can I make this sharper so it doesn't have this white edge that stands out from the image?
In the past few weeks, Document History completely empties itself without me clicking the Clear button. I haven't detected any rhyme or reason to this. How to stop it?
Is there a way to prevent edits to transparent layers? I have a very frequent problem where I change visibility on a layer but neglect to change the active layer and end up making unwanted edits that I can't even see the results of. Sometimes this means I don't manage to undo these changes while I still can!
There is never a case where I want to make changes to a layer I can't see (making changes without knowing what they are is the opposite of useful). Is there an option somewhere to prevent this?
Also, is there a way to set visibility and set the active layer in a single click or keystroke? Part of the problem is having to always remember to do two things.
Is there an option to set no active layer I make the active layer invisible?
I want to import a photo, trace geometric shapes over the photo like circles and lines, and then remove the photo. I have a very basic understanding of LAYERS. I have viewed a few tutorials. But I don't know how to import a photo or how to get rid of it once I have drawn the geometric shapes over it.
I'm refining some SVG files, imported into GIMP as paths. I added numerous guides on the images and drag anchors to the guides. All the paths consist of straight lines only. The problem is that on some anchors GIMP performs the "drag curve" operation instead of the "drag anchor". As a result, my straight lines become broken (curved).
The only solution I've found so far is to apply maximum zoom level, say 400%, and repeat the dragging in this resolution. This makes GIMP work properly, at least, I'm able to "drag anchor" as expected. But switching back and forth to the 400% zoom level is a bit annoying and inconvenient.
Is there a better way to "say" GIMP that "dragging anchor" is the "dragging anchor", not "dragging curve"?
I work with floorplans a lot in my job and I come across this a lot so I figured I'd ask to save me a ton of time. Sometimes I get floorplans in a PDF format that I have to edit in Photoshop. Sometimes, the floorplans come to me very light (the black outlines of walls, doors, the building, etc.) are not as dark as I need them to be. I've tried to go to the Adjustments Menu --> Curves and darkened it that way. But then when I go to flatten the picture, it goes back to the light black color it was before. Is there any way to make the lines darker and to stay darker?
I am trying to quantitate data on some black and white microscope pictures I took, but the images are too bright in parts and I need to darken them down.
Is there a way that I can use photoshop to darken certain pixel values within the photo?
I have tried adjusting the levels in the picture so that the greys are limited, and I have tried changing the greyscale, but to no avail.
I need to make it so that two images have the same pixel values so that they can be calculated evenly.
I'm doing a series of illustrations for a client. I scanned in the black and white inked drawings and then colored them in Photoshop 7 as TIFFs. I worked in CMYK mode the whole time.
when I look at a thumbnail of the saved TIFFs or open them in any other application (windows picture & fax viewer, paint, etc.) I get these dark and murky colors. I get these same murky colors printing from these applications. However, if I open the TIFF image in Photoshop the colors go back to the way they should be. They also print correctly from Photoshop. If I save the image as a JPEG, the colors save correctly.
My client just printed off the first round of proofs (from a laser printer, I assume) and the colors are dark and murky. The problem is that they want the images sent as TIFFs and I don't know what the four color offset printer is going to do.
Is there a way to darken the color of multiple shapes all at once? Eg, If I had a number of shapes all in different, pastelle colors and wanted to see how those shapes would look in more prominent, darker vertions of themselves, how would I do that?
E.g., turning the light purple of the shape below to the dark purple in the image.
In my Lightroom2 whenever I import my RAW files (I shoot RAW and JPG) they are automatically darkened in Lightroom and I don't know why. I'll import them and for a few seconds see how I shot them and how they should look and then when I click on the image in the DEVELOP module, it will change the exposure and make the picture about two stops darker. I don't understand why it is doing this. I shoot with a Canon 5d Mark II. I know it's not my camera, I have tried every setting on it. I believe Lightroom is compromising my images and darkening them.
I have some hand drawings scanned into a computer that I want to clean up in Photoshop.I'm going to use the eraser tool to erase the smudges, though I want to darken the lines of the drawing without having to trace back over it with a pencil, pen, or paint brush. I played a bit by darkening the levels.
I need to know the best way to lighten part of a picture without it being two-toned. An example of this is when I took a picture of someone inside a house.
The orange dress is vivid, and the white wall and door came out good also. The problem is that the lighting wasn't good enough to bring out the true skin tone of the person. So much so that the person's face could hardly be seen, and her neck and hands came out the same as her face also.
I tried to lighten her face by using the Ellipse in Tools>Adjustment>Brightness/Contrast making sure not to go outside the perimeter of the face. I then zoomed to 1600X and manually changed the rest of it a few pixels at a time by switching to the Rectangle in Tools . The result after more than an hour later was something that looked akin to pasting an egg in place of her face on the picture. It was grainy and looked ridiculous.
I don't want to lighten the whole picture because it ruins the true color of the dress, and not as important, the door and walls don't look as sharp and vivid either.
P.S. I would also like to know how to do the reverse; darken a specific area without the two-toned look.
I'm looking to take a certain part of an image (a small shape of it) and then apply darkening, progressively, from that small area. That is, the image gets darker and darker as it radiates out from that shape. Like a vignette, but progressively darkening from the point rather than a strait darkness.
Tried playing around with curves and didn't really do this effect.
This is happening in Lightroom 4 final and is possibly related to this issue: Re: Brightening shadows darkens highlightsBrightening shadows darkens highlights.
Start with a fresh imageSet Whites to a highish value, like 55-60 or better 100.Slowly move the Highlights or Shadows slider to the left
The image gets brighter even it is supposed to get darker. If you move Highlights to the positive side, the image gets darker.
In my workflow, I am constantly editing symbols. However, when I enter a symbol, the stage is "darkened". The result is that I cannot effectively gauge colors as I edit symbol elements. How can I disable this "darkening" and see the normal colors?
How do i darken and maybe thicken all lines in a line drawing?
I need to darken the grey lines in a two color (grey & green) line drawing since they are hard to see.
One way is a fill but there maybe some quick method that proportionately darkens just the grey pixels while preserving the relative grey gradient between grey pixels.
As a Realtor I need to be able to show both exterior views through windows as well as the interior space. I have a Sony cybershot camera but cannot find any settings to allow for this. Is there a way to correct photos on Photoshop?....or do I need a special camera/lens or what?
I'm trying to restore a photo of my mother's sister that was taken on the day of her high school graduation. It's a group photo but here's the piece showing my aunt's face:
This whole photo had a lot of water (and probably mold) damage but the big problem with this section was that it was stuck to the glass. I managed to soak it off but it tore there, and of course that's exactly the part where my aunt's face was. Fortunately I also have a newspaper clipping showing the same photo:
so I do have a reference to go by. Here's what I'm mainly having trouble with:
1) the figure's left eye (on the right side of the face) - I tried the Clone and Heal tools but it just didn't look good so next I tried copying and pasting the other eye, flipping it horizontally, and rotating it a bit to try to get the angle right (I had to hold a ruler to the screen for that; does GIMP have a way to draw a slanted guide line that could be deleted later?). It's not bad, but it's not great either. That was when I remembered the newspaper clipping. I was going to copy from that, and amazingly they are almost exactly the same size (I measured the height of the face in each one) but being a printed piece it of course has dots and it looks awful when copied and pasted.
2) the skin tones - actually this is a problem with the whole photo; the skin tones range from almost white to very gray (actually all the grays range that way ; it's something I've been working on). But my aunt's face is the worst because it's not consistent, probably because of the tear. I've tried doing a free selection around the face and neck and experimenting with some of the color corrections - Auto Normalize and Equalize, Levels, Curves, Brightness/Contrast - but so far it hasn't worked much.
I can include more pieces, or even the entire photo. I just didn't want to take up any more space; I knew this would be a long post. Just let me know.
i have taken a photo of a car mirror which has the camera in the shot, I want to keep the shape of the wing mirror but replace the reflection with clouds. After scrolling through many you tube videos I can only find cutting selected image and pasting onto a different background, all I need is a white background the shape of the mirrors edge and clouds as reflection within the mirrors edge, can this be done.
I like to put a border on the photo I upload online.These pictures are usually 600 X 400 pixels.A 2 pixels line is just perfect for my use but...it's impossible to have a 2 pixels pencil.You can create a 1 pixels pencil or a 3 pixels pencil but not a 2 pixels one. Why?
At one point, what I was doing is, select all,then shrink the selection by 5 pixels(yes,I like to add the border inside the image)and then use the marching ants as a guide and trace a 3 pixels wide solid line and then erase a 1 pixel line using the eraser but...it's extremely tricky(and time consuming)because there's no real 1 pixel eraser...it's a cross made of 5 pixels and if you're not just at the right spot it erases the thing just bad.
Also,I use to do it by: selecting all, then shrink the selection by 5 pixels and then strike the selection with my chosen pencil but...the damn line is 5 pixels away from the border of the picture on the left side and on top but on the right side and at the bottom,the damn line is only "4 pixels" away.Sure 1 pixel off seems not that much but on a small picture 600 X 400, it shows a lot. How come the selection can't be stricken with an even result?
I am trying to remove the person in the background of the attached image. I believe I have finally installed the resynthesizer plug-in but am not successful in removing the person behind the couple shown.
I want to make a Christmas present spelling out the last name using individual photos of letters (see below). I would like the finished image to be 16x20, and I am going to upload it and have it printed at a photo developing shop. I'm not sure how to set this up in GIMP.
When I set up my new file, how many pixels should I make the new image, if my desired size is 16x20. I'm not sure how many dpi to use when I convert the inches to pixels. I read that 300 dpi is desired.
I was thinking about making image boxes for each letter in one layer and cutting and pasting each letter into the boxes. Is this possible or do I need to make a new layer for each photo?
I have a photo that includes the date the picture was taken on the front of it. The text is in yellow and part of the date covers my suited arm. My question is how can I remove the date, and have the area where the date was reflective of the colors that are in the background (i.e., my suit is gray, so I want the area that the yellow date originally covered, now to appear the same color as my suit.
