When printing, does the printer follows the bleed dimensions or my original dimension?
So if it follows the bleed dimension, (For example.) I want my name card to be 85mm x 45mm with 3mm bleed, my inital dimension (when being created) have to be 79mm x 39mm (due to minusing off 6mm on both sides)? Am I right to say that?
When I import images (by dragging image into document), these often start off at a scaled size and with fractional dimensions, e.g. width 117.84px.
Is there a way to import images at their original dimensions?
My printer (actually, it's a laser engraver) is reading the entire artboard in addition to the actual image as needing to be run when set for "3D" (aka greyscale) images, as opposed to just going to the image on the artboard. It is running as though it sees the empty space as white and it is trying to "color" it. When it gets to where the image is placed on the artboard, it runs the image (black or greyscale) within/on it. It wastes A LOT of time. I guess, what I really want to know is how to make sure the artboard area is not being picked up and seen as a part of the image. I need it's dimentions to be read, but not any fill except for the actual image(s) on the artboard. I've never had this problem in the past with other machines (by the same manufacturer) using Illustrator. I was using CS5, not CC.
I ran this by the laser company's techs and they say it is an issue with my Illustrator/Adobe set up, not their driver.
I've been trying to print full bleed images to 3880 epson printer from LR 4.1 and for some reason won't let me make 8.5 x11 borderless prints to printer. both the left and right side of image has white borders and top and bottom has none.
both page grids sides go as low as 1 and cell size reads properly of 11.00in x 8.50in. but when you look at image in print mode in LR- it shows white borders on both sides of picture.
been on phone for 3 hrs with adobe and 30 min with epson tech to no avail?
Will Illustrator CS5 files print on a standard inkjet printer or is some sort of RIP software required? I'm considering an Epson WF-7520.
View 7 Replies View RelatedI run an online wedding invitation design business. I first create the digital files of the invitations in Adobe Illustrator CS5, then secondly I email the PDF file to my customers, and finally the customers are responsible for printing the invitations themselves. Some people print from a home computer, some have a local print shop print them (professional OR places like Staples and Office Max), and some upload the design to an online print service.
I use Adobe Illustrator CS5 and cmyk colors to create my file.
2 times this year I have run across a problem that I don't know how to fix. The customer says that when they print the PDF at home AND at a local print shop (Staples or otherwise), the colors are not right. Specifically, my Peach color was printing Brown for her, and my light Pink color was printing Tan for her.
The first file I sent her was a PDF that I created from Illustrator. I also imported the .ai file into my Photoshop Elements 5.0, and then saved it as a JPG and PSD. Those two printed the same results for her. She printed from home and from Staples. Both printed wrong.
I have made 250+ sales in the last 12 months, and this is only the second time it has happened.
Is there a way to get the dimension text to highlight along with the actual dimensions, without having to directly select it after pulling a dimension off of an object? CAD Tools 7 automatically highlighted it.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have an image which i have placed on an A4 document. I have sized it so that I can have it twice on the page, so when i print it i can cut it in half and have two small 'fliers'. I do not understand how to arrange the 'bleed' or 'borders' for printing.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI need to create a BMP for printing on a Fox Jet Printer. The BMP needs to be 64 dpi vertically and 150 dpi horizontally.
View 2 Replies View RelatedEver since PS CS3 I've noticed that when I print a 300 dpi grayscale image to my laser printer directly from Photoshop, it comes out as if a 72dpi benday screen had been applied. Never happened in earlier versions. I used to get excellent black-and-white print quality through Photoshop, just using the default settings.
I have 300 or 600 dpi grayscale images, usually with a lot of clean black lines. But whether I set to "printer manages colors" or "Photoshop manages colors", and no matter what profile I select, I get the same halftone (awful) result on my HP Deskjet 3330. The printer's settings are fine. If I print the same image from any other application, such as Quark or MS Word, the print quality is fine.
We have a number of printers in our office, an A3, an A1 plotter and an A4 printer.
After printing off the same drawing to the A3 and the A4 yesterday, I realised the A4 printer is printing around 95% of the size it should be printing.
I don't even know where to start fixing this problem; the user manual for the HP Officejet Pro 8000 Enterprise [I know!] doesn't even reference scale at all. It could be an issue with CAD linking to the printer my computer linking to the printer the printer My colleagues are having the same issue, so it's not just my computer or settings.
I want to print an A3 drawing on an A4 printer. I saved the drawing as .DWF and opened the "Autodesk Design Review 2012" to perform the "tiling" print. When in printing properties, I can't seam to understand why the drawing is split in 6 pages, when in reality one A3 sheet is 2x A4 sheets. You can see in the example, that so much space is wasted, is there a way to center the drawing, and am I doing everything right here?
View 4 Replies View RelatedAll of a sudden, my Epson R2400 stopped printing photoshop CS5 files. It prints files from other programs (apperture, mail, web) just fine. The cartridge goes back and forth and the paper advances, but no ink is applied.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI recently replaced my hard drive and upgraded to Mountain Lion. Now Photoshop crashes every time I try to print to my HP Photosmart Premium printer.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a new HP Laserjet M712 B&W printer to replace my aging HP 5000 printer. I'm using X3 & X5 and have installed the HP Universal Postscript driver. The printer is Postscript 3 emulation capable. I have all the settings in the print dialog of Corel the same as the settings from my HP5000 printer, but the new printer fails to print halftones or "dots". The halftone areas are still printing as a solid although I have my screen frequency at 45lpi. Is this a Corel issue or is it a Windows 7 problem, or some kind of user error.
View 1 Replies View Relatedwith Photoshop CS4 installed, printing text to my laser printer results in 'screened' text and lightly screened background. I have the print dialog box set to 'output', but now find the 'screen' button is grayed out as is the 'transfer' button. I need to know how to make the 'screen' button active to eliminate the screen affect I am getting.
View 8 Replies View RelatedI just bought a new 4000 printer and the prints come out a little darker and with a little more magenta than what appears on my monitor.
The monitor has been calibrated using the spider software several times and each time it comes out the the same and I think that part of the process is good.
I have set my color workspace in Photoshop to US press defelts (Adobe 1998) and all seems well there.
The images have been scanned to 8000dpi using a High quality scanner from an outside source.
I open the image and convert to working space RGB, and do my correction to the image which includes more color saturation.
I go to print the image using Adobe1998 as source and the printer paper ICC as the output. I go to advanced options and make sure color correction are turned OFF and print.
The images on my printer always come out darker and with more magenta that what I see on the screen no matter what Icc profile I use for every kind of paper.
The softproof does not look that way.
When I print using same as source as the output with color correction sliders set to 0 the print will be much closer but still not quite like whats on the screen.
When I do it the correct way(the first way I discribed) why is my print comming out too dark and too much magenta?
I have asked Epson and gotten no response so I though I would try somewhere else. I have an Epson RX595 printer that can print to DVD's and CD's my question is ...
Is there a way to print a DVD/CD directly from Adobe Photoshop.? Is there a template that I can download and open in photoshop and it will be configures properly to print to this printer?
I have some very strange problems printing from Autocad. Some of the text is missing. The printer used is a HP9500. If I use a PDF driver to print to file, then print from the PDF file, it's ok, the text is showed, but printing directly from autocad has been resulting in this type of issue.
I checked the layers, and they are ok. The fonts are ok. It's not printing some text "near the viewport" borders. It was what I could conclude.
To create a new template one has to go through the "Printer..." dialog to change the paper size. Unfortunately, the only way to actually SAVE the new settings is to click OK, which causes Lightroom to print the current image. In all other programs, the "Printer..." dialog is used only to adjust settings. In Lightroom it seems to serve as a "Print" dialog as well. On Windows this violates long-standing UI function guidelines embodied by pretty much all other software.
A concrete example:
I needed to create a new template to print on 8-1/2 x 11 paper. To do so, I created a new template while in an existing template for 8x10. This copies the settings to the new template, but one cannot adjust the cell size to anything larger than 8x10. So I went to the "Printer...:" dialog to change the paper size. However, when clicking OK on the "Printer..." dialog, to save the new paper size, Lightroom starts printing the current image.
What should happen is that the settings are saved and no printing starts. Printing should occur only when I click on "Print".
Unless I've missed something and there's a way to change paper size, color profile, paper type, etc. (all the things you can change on the printer driver's dialog) from within Lightroom without invoking "Printer..."?
My radius and diameter dimensions keep jumping from my original line to another, see attached
View 1 Replies View RelatedI've designed 2 artboards (basically two halves of one image) for a competition entry. Pieces can only be submitted in jpeg or png at 5mb max and using only one file. I've designed it at actual size (approx 4000x1000 mm). I have managed to reduce it and save the whole image as a png file (with a white gap dividng the two panels) I'm now thinking this is amateurish and the required bleed setting may have been lost. So,
1. The correct way to crop artwork to each artboard and export artboards to one jpeg or png file.
2. Maintain bleed settings around each artboard.
I have a signature on a piece of paper which has been done with blue pen. It has been scanned at resolution of 600x600 dpi. I want my signature to look like original one after printing. Is it possible? There is a plenty of tutorials how to do that with normal black pen or how to do transparency etc. I need signature which looks like originals blue pen.
View 8 Replies View RelatedI amprinting on an Epson Stylus Pro 4800 using Photoshop CS3. Although the printer will accommodate lengths up to 55 inches, when I try to print something longer than 30 inches, Photoshop crashes. Epson adives the purchase of RIP software. Is there a way in Photoshop to get around the length limitation?
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhen I print to .pdf for A1 and plot, no worries, all lineweights print solid and perfectly. However, when I print to .pdf for A3 (scaling lineweights), whilst all the lineweights appear solid on the screen, when I plot the layers that are set to transparency are faded/rough/broken on paper.
Ticking the plot transparency box doesn't work and it happens to my printer at home and at work. I haven't used transparent layers before and have adopted this drawing created through someone else.
I have problem printing tiff images with a picture in Windows 7, 64 bit only on a laser printers. The processing of even the simplest of drawings to the printer takes too long, more than half an hour after that or stop with the press or to print only part of the drawing.
This problem does not appear when we print only the tiff images on a laser printer or print the entire drawing to a plotter. Also print these drawings with the tiff images without any problems under the previous operating system (XP). Note that we use the latest drivers for all printers.
I am using Windows 7 and recently installed Photoshop Elements 10. If the Dell 3000cn is set as my default printer, as soon as I click on print, I receive the mssage I need to install a printer.
I have verified that I have the latest Dell driver. If another printer is the default, I can print one image to the Dell printer. If I try to print a second image or change certain prnter settings, such as setting a custom size, PS Elements just show the waitng icon and never moves on so it has stoped working and I receive the following dialog box from Windows.
I'm designing a simple flyer that will be printed (I have little experience in the print world) and it might need to bleed to the edges, though I'm waiting to hear back from the person I'm designing it for.
If it does bleed to the edges, do I only need to make sure that the artwork on my artboard touches the edges of my artboard? OR is there something else that needs to be done?
I can't get my document to save a PDF with the bleed area, it shows the cropmarks but not bleed area. Also in my Object tab I do not have the option of Crop area.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have scale 9 grids on a symbol. The symbol has been correctly created with all anchor points on whole number coordinates. Setting a width and coordinates to align with whole number values (pixels) causes Illustrator either bleed the left or right pixels for apparently no reason. For example, setting the width 224 causes it to bleed on the right. Setting it to 225 causes the pixels to bleed on the left which makes **** all sense since the paths on the left shouldn't have changed. I think this is a bug in the impelementation in regards to how the origin works in Illustrator in that it is the center of the object.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'd like to layout a book format where the bleed extends on only the top, bottom and outside pages when two artboards are placed together.
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