I keep getting the following error message in Gimp:
Calling error for procedure 'gimp-image-set-resolution': Procedure 'gimp-image-set-resolution' has been called with value '-1.#IND00' for argument 'yresolution' (#3, type gdouble). This value is out of range.
then the picture closes!
I use your program & believe that it is the best photo editing application year-to-date beside Adobe Photoshop & it's FREE.
Since the Q2 your website had stated the version 2.7.2 had been released @ 04/15/2011, however I can't find anywhere @ your website to download this recent version & continue to take advantage of it.
URL as to where to download it version 2.7.2?
Sometimes Iwould close by mistake a tool dock by clicking alt-F4 a little toofast, while the dock has the focus, but I thought it was the image(and I wanted to close this image). Then the dock configuration (whichtools were set there, which tabs,size and position of the dock andtabs, etc.) is lost. So of course, I can always recreate the dock,reposition/resize it, set the right tools inside. But that's boring.
would therebe an option right now to prevent the tool docks from closing by theusual window-close event (so you could close them by the dock menuexplicitely, but not by quick shortcut for instance)?
On trying to save a custom brush in gimp I got the following message :
GIMP MESSAGE:
Saving '/usr/share/gimp/2.0/brushes/brush.gih' failed:
Could not open '/usr/share/gimp/2.0/brushes/brush.gih' for writing: Permission denied.
Although I have successfully done this in the past ,for some reason it is now preventing me from saving them in the 'brushes' folder. Incidentally although the brushes I previously produced do NOT appear in this folder (despite having show all files ticked) they do appear in the gimp dialogue and I can use them.
Im using uberstudent (Linux)
I've checked gimp's 'preferences' to see if I have inadvertantly blocked access but cant see anything relevant..
I can't seem to use the adjustment tools in RAW editing of JPEG's. An error message comes up.."Unable to create local adjustments. All the local adjustment controls are set to have no effect on the image". These are tools I have been using regularly and all other tools work. I have shut off my MAC and rebooted but still get this message. How can I reenable these adjustment tools??
View 1 Replies View RelatedIm using Corel Photo-Paint X5 and was wondering how to decrease or remove pixelation from the edges of a low quality photo? Iva attached a sample below
View 5 Replies View RelatedPutting aside the fact that you really can't see stars at sunset, and that if Polaris ever shows up near a setting sun, it's the End Of The World -- it's equally easy to add the stars to a nighttime photo..Next. Am trying to build a collection of photo-editing tips on the Xara-Users forum -- [removed link -link broken and or requires membership to view]
Xara's a LOT easier to use than Photoshop. But it is different. I know Xara's really for vector artwork, but when you end up using it more and more for photo editing, it's useful to have a bunch of techniques in one place.
After editing in perfect photo I cannot unstack the edited photo in LR4. The thumbnail shows the number of photos in the stack, but right click/expand stack has no effect. The edited photo is not showing.
View 2 Replies View Relatedis it possible to convert a photo into a silhouette in cd. I have been playing around with a few pictures but not getting great results, although they are improving each time. What I want to do is convert a picture of my neice into a silhouette and maybe cut it in vinyl.
View 6 Replies View RelatedDSCF3720-On top of South Mountain.jpg
This is the top of South Mountain. South "Mountain" is about 1,000 feet high. We like to think that we are living in the mountains so a good many hills and towns have the word mountain in their name.
I am new to GIMP.
I want to import a photo, trace geometric shapes over the photo like circles and lines, and then remove the photo. I have a very basic understanding of LAYERS. I have viewed a few tutorials. But I don't know how to import a photo or how to get rid of it once I have drawn the geometric shapes over it.
Computer hardware newbie here: I do a significant amount of photo editing work and for a very long time I've experienced Photoshop, Bridge and Photomatix crashing constantly (usually due to insufficient RAM) or just generally taking forever (Bridge took forever to load the thumbnail/preview extractions in a folder full of images, Photoshop took forever to save images and Photomatix took ages to load/merge a set of bracketed photos). Here are the typical error messages I'd get: [URL] ........
As a professional photographer, constantly running into that sort of thing is quite aggravating, so to hopefully avoid ever having to deal with that again I invested in a new custom built computer. It's Windows 7 Professional 64 bit with 32GB of RAM and a 240GB SSD; I'm using the 240GB SSD as my boot drive/OS, all of my programs are installed there, and the page file. My photos and data are stored on several HDDs. I have yet to install any of my photo editing software (Photoshop CS6 Extended, Lightroom, Photomatix etc) to the new computer yet.
My basic question is this: what is the best way to take advantage of the SSD (and the computer in general) when it comes to my photo editing software?
Specifically...
1. If I have a folder of photos I'm working on, should I move it to the SSD and then work on them from there in order to take advantage of the speed of the SSD? Would this make any difference in terms of speed if the photos are located on the SSD vs. an internal/external HDD?
2. Most of what I've read online seems to recommend two separate SSDs, one for installing/booting the apps and one for cache/scratch. Does it matter if I use my 240GB SSD for both?
3. This is a fairly new computer and the SSD is already almost half full (102GB used, 120GB free) *WITHOUT* any of my photo editing software installed yet. I'm concerned about how fast that remaining 120 GB may fill up. As it fills up will I lose the speed advantage of the SSD vs. a regular HDD?
4. Sort of similar to #3, but should I bother moving any of my other non-photo editing programs/caches off of the SSD to a HDD and would there be any major difference in the speed/lifespan of the SSD if I did so? It's mostly Firefox and Chrome and their caches that I'm concerned may be a problem if they remain on the SSD.
I am trying to take this photo which has some nicks in it and touch it up.
Specifically the areas in the bottom left where the floorboard, moldings join. As you can see it's pretty out of line. I don't have to get it perfect, but am trying to ensure it's not a noticeable glitch. I have about 5 of these I need to do, so any help as to if it's possible and how I can go about it would be great.
So far I've tried using the smudge tool, copying parts of the real and pasting it over it, however with the angle it's beyond my skill to do this.
Also the other glitch in the window trim on the right side...
I used to have a photo editing procedure in CS5 - VERY easy - make layer on top and it was editable. Somehow I'm missing a step on CS6.
Example:
applying smart filter. There isn't adjustment layer option for this so I'm left with doing it on the background layer which isn't what I want to do. How do you open up the layer?
what can be done to a photo that was taken in a partly cloudy day with the sun covered or against the sun so it looks more lively?
View 9 Replies View RelatedPhotoshop CS2 crashes when editing photo on Mac OS 10.6.8. What is the problem? I worked fine before.
View 1 Replies View RelatedThis is a picture made with the Instacollage app. I wanted to add two additional pictures. How can I make the boarders of the 2 additional photos (the 2 which are down) fit perfectly or almost perfectly with the rest.Untitled-1.psd
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have a photo where the orientation is landscape and I would like to make it a 5x7 portrait size orientation. Is there a way to do this without screwing up the entire photo?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am working on a photo of a city skyline that I took. I am looking to superimpose blue sky and clouds which normally isn't a problem if there were only buildings. The white spaces in between tree leaves such as palm trees are especially challenging to fill. They can be hundreds of distracting white spots in the scene to fill .
View 2 Replies View RelatedIs there any way to tell for sure if an image has been altered?
I got some pics and when I zoom in on some areas of it it looks like the pixels arent right would one suggest that the pics have been doctored?
I recently had a friend take many photos of my family. Not one of the photos came out with all of us smiling and looking at the camera at the same time. Any suggestions of how to incorporate some photos together to make one good one? I have Photosho Elements 6 and I am pretty new to photoshop.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI purchased this resume template online and had no problems saving it as a Photoshop PDF file with the original file.
But once I made my own changes to the resume template, as seen below I kept getting the "I keep getting the error "Preserve photoshop editing capabilities" is incompatitable with earlier versions of Phootshop. In earlier versions, you must open the PDF as a Generic PDF (not as a Photoshop PDF)" whenever I save my file as a Photoshop PDF.
I'm using Photoshop CS6 on a Macbook Retina Display. I made sure I checked the "Layers" in the "Saved As" dialog, so not sure why its causing my Photoshop PDF files to look faint.
I currently use Photoshop CS5 and Lightroom 4.1. I am in the process of having a new computer built just for editing my photography. The board will be an ASUS P9X79 with an intel Core i7-3820 and 16 GB memory. The technician would like a recommendation of the best graphics card for editing still images.
All of my work is done in RAW from a 5D MII. 21 megapixel.
My wife and I use CS4. Lately after she edits a photo and saves it as a jpeg, something happens. It's like it doesn't save with the .jpg extention. When she goes to her pictures folder to open the file, there is a blank thumbnail and it won't open until she manually adds a .jpg to the end or sometimes it won't even save.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI have Camera Raw 5.0 through Bridge CS4 and I shoot photos on my Nikon D40X in JPEG. Should I NOT be using Camera Raw to edit my non-RAW photos? Is it degrading my images? I noticed when I did some editing and saved the photo, the new photo size was about 25% of the original JPEG size.
View 5 Replies View RelatedIf I upload a shopped image (basic editing, such as curves and selective colors for instance) on a site which anyone could see (naturally) and download if they like, can a person remove all the edit work to the point where the image returns to its first form?
View 7 Replies View RelatedIs there anyway these "eyes" can be saved some how? Or atleast just so that they aren't so ****ing shiny.It completely ruins the pictures. Obviously they can't be saved, but just make it look "not so bad"
View 8 Replies View RelatedI just want the girl here deleted from the photo or atleast cut out so it woun`t show much of her.
I attached the photo,
I was under the impression that editing in PS from LR4 meant my original in LR4 was safe (ie: that after editing in PS, both the PS editied photo and the LR4 original would be side by side when LR4 was opened up)
However, my first foray into PS was earlier today, when I double-processed an image as instructed by Scott Kelby's book (the Adobe Photoshop CS6 book - page 52). The book covers PS (not Lightroom) and camera raw, but I thought that anything edited in PS and/or camera raw would leave my original untouched. Following Scott Kelby's instructions, I did some editing in LR4, then opened in PS as a smart object, then opened a 'New Smart Object via Copy' which I did further edits on, but this time in Camera Raw.
I now had 2 versions of the photo in PS. I then did a layer mask for the foreground object, and darkened the background of the sky etc behind it, so a sort of HDR with the 2 photos. I then followed his instructions to 'Flatten Image', and then to do a levels adjustment to brighten image.
Still following the instructions, to make the image more vibrant, I went to Mode, Lab Color, Apply Image. I chose the 'a' chanel, blending mode, then switched back to RGB Color
It didn't actually say to save file, but I just did a 'File Save in PS. The only photo in LR4 was now the PS edited one. I went to before/after comparison, but just had the finished photo with Lab Color adjustments as after photo, and before photo was the combined 2 photos after editing / layer masking, but no sign of my original.
I have been reading that you should 'copy' the original in PS, but have also read that this is not necessary if you have Lightroom, So I'm confused by this. This was the first time the book touched on photoshop, so I'm surprised there was no mentioned about saving the file. I now have about 4 photoshop books, and they all talk of camera raw workflow only
I want a photo of a king of diamonds ,edited where the K for king is to be my initial... C so it will be a C of diamonds...
View 9 Replies View RelatedI have several thousand photos and I need to edit the names with some system that uses my time efficiently. In the past I used windows explorer, which allowed me to modify groups of titles but now I just updated to windows 7 and it does not seem to allow that. Is there some way with Paint Shop Pro to modify the names of groups of photos - extract certain characters or words, add other characters or words, etc?
Or perhaps there is a photo organizing program that provides that kind of tool?