Is there any way to tell for sure if an image has been altered?
I got some pics and when I zoom in on some areas of it it looks like the pixels arent right would one suggest that the pics have been doctored?
Im using Corel Photo-Paint X5 and was wondering how to decrease or remove pixelation from the edges of a low quality photo? Iva attached a sample below
View 5 Replies View RelatedPutting aside the fact that you really can't see stars at sunset, and that if Polaris ever shows up near a setting sun, it's the End Of The World -- it's equally easy to add the stars to a nighttime photo..Next. Am trying to build a collection of photo-editing tips on the Xara-Users forum -- [removed link -link broken and or requires membership to view]
Xara's a LOT easier to use than Photoshop. But it is different. I know Xara's really for vector artwork, but when you end up using it more and more for photo editing, it's useful to have a bunch of techniques in one place.
After editing in perfect photo I cannot unstack the edited photo in LR4. The thumbnail shows the number of photos in the stack, but right click/expand stack has no effect. The edited photo is not showing.
View 2 Replies View Relatedis it possible to convert a photo into a silhouette in cd. I have been playing around with a few pictures but not getting great results, although they are improving each time. What I want to do is convert a picture of my neice into a silhouette and maybe cut it in vinyl.
View 6 Replies View RelatedDSCF3720-On top of South Mountain.jpg
This is the top of South Mountain. South "Mountain" is about 1,000 feet high. We like to think that we are living in the mountains so a good many hills and towns have the word mountain in their name.
Computer hardware newbie here: I do a significant amount of photo editing work and for a very long time I've experienced Photoshop, Bridge and Photomatix crashing constantly (usually due to insufficient RAM) or just generally taking forever (Bridge took forever to load the thumbnail/preview extractions in a folder full of images, Photoshop took forever to save images and Photomatix took ages to load/merge a set of bracketed photos). Here are the typical error messages I'd get: [URL] ........
As a professional photographer, constantly running into that sort of thing is quite aggravating, so to hopefully avoid ever having to deal with that again I invested in a new custom built computer. It's Windows 7 Professional 64 bit with 32GB of RAM and a 240GB SSD; I'm using the 240GB SSD as my boot drive/OS, all of my programs are installed there, and the page file. My photos and data are stored on several HDDs. I have yet to install any of my photo editing software (Photoshop CS6 Extended, Lightroom, Photomatix etc) to the new computer yet.
My basic question is this: what is the best way to take advantage of the SSD (and the computer in general) when it comes to my photo editing software?
Specifically...
1. If I have a folder of photos I'm working on, should I move it to the SSD and then work on them from there in order to take advantage of the speed of the SSD? Would this make any difference in terms of speed if the photos are located on the SSD vs. an internal/external HDD?
2. Most of what I've read online seems to recommend two separate SSDs, one for installing/booting the apps and one for cache/scratch. Does it matter if I use my 240GB SSD for both?
3. This is a fairly new computer and the SSD is already almost half full (102GB used, 120GB free) *WITHOUT* any of my photo editing software installed yet. I'm concerned about how fast that remaining 120 GB may fill up. As it fills up will I lose the speed advantage of the SSD vs. a regular HDD?
4. Sort of similar to #3, but should I bother moving any of my other non-photo editing programs/caches off of the SSD to a HDD and would there be any major difference in the speed/lifespan of the SSD if I did so? It's mostly Firefox and Chrome and their caches that I'm concerned may be a problem if they remain on the SSD.
I am trying to take this photo which has some nicks in it and touch it up.
Specifically the areas in the bottom left where the floorboard, moldings join. As you can see it's pretty out of line. I don't have to get it perfect, but am trying to ensure it's not a noticeable glitch. I have about 5 of these I need to do, so any help as to if it's possible and how I can go about it would be great.
So far I've tried using the smudge tool, copying parts of the real and pasting it over it, however with the angle it's beyond my skill to do this.
Also the other glitch in the window trim on the right side...
I used to have a photo editing procedure in CS5 - VERY easy - make layer on top and it was editable. Somehow I'm missing a step on CS6.
Example:
applying smart filter. There isn't adjustment layer option for this so I'm left with doing it on the background layer which isn't what I want to do. How do you open up the layer?
what can be done to a photo that was taken in a partly cloudy day with the sun covered or against the sun so it looks more lively?
View 9 Replies View RelatedPhotoshop CS2 crashes when editing photo on Mac OS 10.6.8. What is the problem? I worked fine before.
View 1 Replies View RelatedThis is a picture made with the Instacollage app. I wanted to add two additional pictures. How can I make the boarders of the 2 additional photos (the 2 which are down) fit perfectly or almost perfectly with the rest.Untitled-1.psd
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have a photo where the orientation is landscape and I would like to make it a 5x7 portrait size orientation. Is there a way to do this without screwing up the entire photo?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI recently had a friend take many photos of my family. Not one of the photos came out with all of us smiling and looking at the camera at the same time. Any suggestions of how to incorporate some photos together to make one good one? I have Photosho Elements 6 and I am pretty new to photoshop.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI currently use Photoshop CS5 and Lightroom 4.1. I am in the process of having a new computer built just for editing my photography. The board will be an ASUS P9X79 with an intel Core i7-3820 and 16 GB memory. The technician would like a recommendation of the best graphics card for editing still images.
All of my work is done in RAW from a 5D MII. 21 megapixel.
My wife and I use CS4. Lately after she edits a photo and saves it as a jpeg, something happens. It's like it doesn't save with the .jpg extention. When she goes to her pictures folder to open the file, there is a blank thumbnail and it won't open until she manually adds a .jpg to the end or sometimes it won't even save.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI have Camera Raw 5.0 through Bridge CS4 and I shoot photos on my Nikon D40X in JPEG. Should I NOT be using Camera Raw to edit my non-RAW photos? Is it degrading my images? I noticed when I did some editing and saved the photo, the new photo size was about 25% of the original JPEG size.
View 5 Replies View RelatedIf I upload a shopped image (basic editing, such as curves and selective colors for instance) on a site which anyone could see (naturally) and download if they like, can a person remove all the edit work to the point where the image returns to its first form?
View 7 Replies View RelatedIs there anyway these "eyes" can be saved some how? Or atleast just so that they aren't so ****ing shiny.It completely ruins the pictures. Obviously they can't be saved, but just make it look "not so bad"
View 8 Replies View RelatedI just want the girl here deleted from the photo or atleast cut out so it woun`t show much of her.
I attached the photo,
I was under the impression that editing in PS from LR4 meant my original in LR4 was safe (ie: that after editing in PS, both the PS editied photo and the LR4 original would be side by side when LR4 was opened up)
However, my first foray into PS was earlier today, when I double-processed an image as instructed by Scott Kelby's book (the Adobe Photoshop CS6 book - page 52). The book covers PS (not Lightroom) and camera raw, but I thought that anything edited in PS and/or camera raw would leave my original untouched. Following Scott Kelby's instructions, I did some editing in LR4, then opened in PS as a smart object, then opened a 'New Smart Object via Copy' which I did further edits on, but this time in Camera Raw.
I now had 2 versions of the photo in PS. I then did a layer mask for the foreground object, and darkened the background of the sky etc behind it, so a sort of HDR with the 2 photos. I then followed his instructions to 'Flatten Image', and then to do a levels adjustment to brighten image.
Still following the instructions, to make the image more vibrant, I went to Mode, Lab Color, Apply Image. I chose the 'a' chanel, blending mode, then switched back to RGB Color
It didn't actually say to save file, but I just did a 'File Save in PS. The only photo in LR4 was now the PS edited one. I went to before/after comparison, but just had the finished photo with Lab Color adjustments as after photo, and before photo was the combined 2 photos after editing / layer masking, but no sign of my original.
I have been reading that you should 'copy' the original in PS, but have also read that this is not necessary if you have Lightroom, So I'm confused by this. This was the first time the book touched on photoshop, so I'm surprised there was no mentioned about saving the file. I now have about 4 photoshop books, and they all talk of camera raw workflow only
I want a photo of a king of diamonds ,edited where the K for king is to be my initial... C so it will be a C of diamonds...
View 9 Replies View RelatedI'm using CS2 and have taken some silver jewelry photo's for my website. I would like some advice on creating a nice crisp white background with some shadow around the the base of the item.
What is the best and most efficient method as I'm finding the silver does mingle with the white when I try and adjust the settings. The magic wand isn't much use either.
Question - is there an easy (or not so easy) way to make a photo with sepia tones?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have a framed photo that I did in PSE6. After consideration I want to remove the frame how do I go about that please?
View 1 Replies View Relatedwith layers on photoshop (CS3) when trying to edit photos. Although i can do each individual part on its own what im after is one file containing different layers for each adjustment.
For example i want my healing/clone layer, a sharpening layer, various adjustment layers etc.
Im completely stumped as to what order i want to put these in. For example with mu healing layer in one place if i adjust the levels slider on the adjustment layer i get blotches where the healing brush was used as it hasn't updated to the new levels. Reversing the 2 and the healing brush pastes in from the old not new levels so wrong colours and so on.
sensible layer based work flow and order for dealing with these things in photoshop?
Currently i end up loading an image, doing all the healing, flattening then creating adjustments and so on but this means obviously i cant go back to adjust an individual layer and so on so isnt great.
I've taken a picture on a digital camera in a dimly lit room. Having downloaded it to PC, the picture has a horrible yellow/orange tinge from the light bulb. How can I correct this using Photoshop CS and improve the colours without washing them out or introducing image noise.
View 1 Replies View RelatedGraphic Designers and Photoshop hobbyists. This past weekend, I bought a graphics tablet. However, I’m having a hard time seeing the benefits in this thing. For those that have tried it or use it, what are your thoughts? Do you think it was a good investment or do you prefer the good old-fashioned mouse? I would use it mainly for photo editing.
It’s starting to get easier to control my cursor on screen, but when I tried photo editing, it was annoying. The precise control wasn’t there. For instance, a mouse is on a flat surface and when I need a precise edit, I can anchor my fingers on the table to move the mouse just that tiny bit that’s needed or just steady the mouse.
With the graphics tablet, I have to hoover the pen above the tablet and every movement in my hand, registers to the cursor on the screen and I couldn’t get the cursor to move just a miniscule amount because there was no way to fully steady the pen. I also had to keep leaning forward to access the CTRL or ALT keys on my keyboard. The other problem I had was that my wrist was actually starting to hurt. Although, that might have been due to how I was sitting, with the tablet in my lap – I don’t know.
Maybe I’m rushing to learn this and not giving myself enough time to get used to it and see the benefits, but as of right now, I like the mouse SO much better and am considering returning this tablet.
I cannot get my photo to show up in Lightroom after editing in Elements 11. I did choose Elements Editor in prefs. In fact, I already got support from Adobe about this issue a month ago. It did work then
View 10 Replies View RelatedHow do I change the background around people in a photo using photoshop elements?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have installed Open Sans Font and did some design work in photoshop using the same font. But after I reopen the photoshop, the fonts in the C:\ Windowsfonts changes to a shortcut (which means it moves from that place to another) and photoshop is not detecting the particular font. It is happening with most of the fonts I install. And I'm forced to install the font again.
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