Photoshop :: Photo Editing - Graphics Tablet Or Mouse?
Apr 5, 2012
Graphic Designers and Photoshop hobbyists. This past weekend, I bought a graphics tablet. However, I’m having a hard time seeing the benefits in this thing. For those that have tried it or use it, what are your thoughts? Do you think it was a good investment or do you prefer the good old-fashioned mouse? I would use it mainly for photo editing.
It’s starting to get easier to control my cursor on screen, but when I tried photo editing, it was annoying. The precise control wasn’t there. For instance, a mouse is on a flat surface and when I need a precise edit, I can anchor my fingers on the table to move the mouse just that tiny bit that’s needed or just steady the mouse.
With the graphics tablet, I have to hoover the pen above the tablet and every movement in my hand, registers to the cursor on the screen and I couldn’t get the cursor to move just a miniscule amount because there was no way to fully steady the pen. I also had to keep leaning forward to access the CTRL or ALT keys on my keyboard. The other problem I had was that my wrist was actually starting to hurt. Although, that might have been due to how I was sitting, with the tablet in my lap – I don’t know.
Maybe I’m rushing to learn this and not giving myself enough time to get used to it and see the benefits, but as of right now, I like the mouse SO much better and am considering returning this tablet.
I currently use Photoshop CS5 and Lightroom 4.1. I am in the process of having a new computer built just for editing my photography. The board will be an ASUS P9X79 with an intel Core i7-3820 and 16 GB memory. The technician would like a recommendation of the best graphics card for editing still images.
All of my work is done in RAW from a 5D MII. 21 megapixel.
Noticed that photoshop CS6 on Creative Cloud at least seems to lag when I try to move a layer around or a selection around with my mouse after I have used my tablet. So what Im trying to say is that I can move selections around with my mouse or with my tablet and they move fine but when I do anything with my tablet and the go back to my mouse thats where I get the lagging movement. If I then at that point try to move the selection with my tablet it doest lag around. As I try different things with my mouse after I have used my tablet nothing else seems to lag just moving the selection with my mouse. Any others having this issue or know what may be the cause?
I am 65 yrs young and use the Lasso Tool,Polygonal and Magnetic tools with a mouse.I just cannot control the outline area definition as precise as shown in all the tutorials. The "walking ants" are always screwed up and all over the place! Also, holding down the mouse button and scrolling the track ball is very hard for my hands.
Will a Wacon tablet w/pencil provide a better manipulation of PS(CS5&6) functions for outlining areas to be modified?
I have a setup where I have a wireless mouse and a Genius MousePen 8x6 Tablet both plugged into the computer at the same time (Windows 7). I'm wondering if Photoshop recognizes one device as primary (the mouse) and ignores pressure input from the 'secondary' device (the tablet), because I'm not currently getting pressure input from a tablet that I have gotten pressure from many times before. I'm using Photoshop CS2 in this specific instance, but I'd imagine the question would apply to newer versions as well.
I get a LOT of Photoshop CC (64 or 32bit) mouse lag. I do NOT have a wacom tablet or driver (I've searched these forums for solutions). All the other Adobe products work fine.
I own a Wacom tablet and I've used it for about a year now.. and now that I mostly use my Laptop, I use the wacom tablet as a mouse pad (using the mouse that comes with it). I opened up photoshop today on my laptop and I was trying to erase some things using the brush command and it didn't work.. after an hour of panic and googleing I had the idea of using the pen.. which works.
I've deleted preferences, reset tools, and everything.. but its not working. No brush commands work (Clone, Brush, Eraser, etc.) but everything else will work.
I don't get it.. Is it something with pressure maybe?
Thats the only difference between mouse and pen.. pen adds pressure sensitivity.
I can't use the pen for pixel editing as well as I can use a mouse.
tablet is good for sketching and mouse is good for pathing, but i cant use both at the same time. What can i do?I need to point out that disabling the pen doesn't work I need the pressure feature on...im using gimp 2.8 on windows 7 32bits, usng an acteck di-pen5500 tablet pen.
I don't know if the section I'm posting this question in is certainly correct but I just can't figure out one thing that "my" GIMP used to possess years ago, while I was using it for the first time. And which doesn't seem to occur anymore after some more releases.
Now, to the point:
I'm using a WACOM Bamboo tablet and -- I need to make my core pointer use decent brushing parameters than my tablet rubber and stylus. The effect I'm seeking is to enable using my mouse pointer as a rubber with increased brush size comparing to the thin brush I'm using while drawing with the tablet. The brush size seems to be the same regardless of which tool I'm using at a time, and it stinks, because if I could use them in a decent way, my work would be way enhanced. I just need to know how to make those two mediums behave adversely.
I recently bought photoshop. I am now looking into buying a graphics tablet/stylus b/c i heard it would be a very useful tool for this program. i was looking for feedback if anyone uses one, and their opinion. is this something that would be worth the money?
Got one of those Graphics Tablets to draw with and would like some ideas of projects I could do in Photoshop using it. I'm guessing a lot of you use graphic tablets (like Wacom) in your work.
I just fool around in Photoshop, but would like to have some kind of goal instead of just minor edits and scribbling. Any ideas? What do you guys do with your tablet in PS?
I?ve been using a budget Graphics Tablet for a while now. Whilst this is fine for general brushwork I don?t get on with it enough to use as an alternative to a mouse.
I find that every time I click the button, the pointer moves. Icons move when I open an app, and objects or layers move when I open a context sensitive menu. I also find that when making selections slowly, or just generally drawing slowly, the pointer/brush is not truly steady. I?ve covered the pad with a sheet of paper which make the tip less slippery, but not enough for steady control.
trying to find a good graphics tablet and I was looking at the Wacom Graphire (6x11) and the Wacom Intuos (6x8). I would use the tablet for editing photographs and brushing.
I looked around last year before university for one of these, and had no luck, so now i'm asking before university starts again.Is there such a thing as ANY graphics tablet (not nessicarily Wacomn if they don't do one) that will work as soon as it is plugged into the USB port without any softwear drivers needed to be installed first? It would be a great help for uni, because we can't install stuff there.
My graphics tablet is Wacom CLT-470/K (pen) without buttons on tablet. But my pen have two buttons and i want to know, how to set up them. For example i want that when i tap first button, undo the last change occurred. Of course i can set in properties of tablet driver (then tap first button, ctrl+z occured), but GIMP (!) still understand that first button (near the pen tip) is right mouse button, and second is middle mouse button, ever after reload GIMP. In old version GIMP, like 2.2.17, gimp understand pen button in accordance to properties of tablet driver, but old verstion is too unstable.
Im using Corel Photo-Paint X5 and was wondering how to decrease or remove pixelation from the edges of a low quality photo? Iva attached a sample below
For the past 2 months I've been using a Yiynova 10.1 tablet to design in Illustrator CS6. Later today I have an issue where the cursor would be on place but immediately move to a random area on screen. It is quick and I can keep my pen to point where I need to. However, everytime when I do close Illustrator the tablet seems to work perfectly. Photoshop and other programs seem to respond well with the pen and tablet, but Illustrator doesn't. I have ran a windows compatibility to all previous versions of windows and there are no results. I have reinstalled my Illustrator CS6 and the tablet doesn't want to play well still.
Putting aside the fact that you really can't see stars at sunset, and that if Polaris ever shows up near a setting sun, it's the End Of The World -- it's equally easy to add the stars to a nighttime photo..Next. Am trying to build a collection of photo-editing tips on the Xara-Users forum -- [removed link -link broken and or requires membership to view]
Xara's a LOT easier to use than Photoshop. But it is different. I know Xara's really for vector artwork, but when you end up using it more and more for photo editing, it's useful to have a bunch of techniques in one place.
After editing in perfect photo I cannot unstack the edited photo in LR4. The thumbnail shows the number of photos in the stack, but right click/expand stack has no effect. The edited photo is not showing.
is it possible to convert a photo into a silhouette in cd. I have been playing around with a few pictures but not getting great results, although they are improving each time. What I want to do is convert a picture of my neice into a silhouette and maybe cut it in vinyl.
I just installed cdr x5 on a tablet pc (asus slate B121) and I like it very much. But I begin to get frustrated by the Poliline tool.
Since this tool needs you to double click to end a curve I always get curves with added nodes to the ends (it's impossible to do a double-click with a pen without moving the pen between the two clicks.
The only workaround that I found is to move away the pen from the screen far enough so that you can press the space bar to end the curve without extra nodes. But this is really extra gymnastic for your arm... and quite annoying while you try to get the job done in few minutes.
So, is there a way to use the poliline tool without "putting down" the "unclicked" node while pressing the spacebar? Something similar to the freehand tool, but with the ability to draw curve-straight lines consecutively.
Is it possible to obtain a drawing tablet which can be taken out, away from the computer and be used like a sketch-book when out and about? Then, after coming home with this drawing tablet, connect it into the computer and upload all the sketches you've done when out?
I presently use a Wacom Bamboo which connects into my laptop, but I sometimes would like to just take the 'Bamboo' out - draw on it like an electronic sketchbook - come home and put all my sketches into the computer for further work.
I need to use CorelDraw X5 the bigger the pain in the neck the issue becomes.
The tabket is a Wacom Intuos 3 an my pen is set up to have a right click for the lower side button, double click for the upper side button and single click for the nib. In all applications and Windows this works as expected but as soon as I run X5 I lose the right click and it takes several minutes to return after I have quit X5.
While using CorelDraw the only way to get a right click is to hold down the nib to bring up a pop up menu.
Is there a setting in the tablet driver (or CorelDraw?) that will stop this happening?
This was originally posted under 2009 - but I have this issue in 2010!
The old post was: Block Editor Posted: Aug 1, 2008 7:01 PM
When I go into block editor, edit the block then close it out. My cursor is really jerky in model space. Especially bad when I go into a command and try to select something. The only way to get rid of the jerkiness is to close auto cad and restart it. Is there anyway to cure this?
I have 2010 and am experiencing this exact same problem. It is intermittent and will sometimes 'go away' after a few minutes. Block editing is definitely related as a cause. I use SDI = 1 predominantly and it seems to be session independent. In other words one drawing session is experiencing the problem but jumping to another concurrent session exhibits no issues.
Task manager shows off the chart 99% plus on process ACAD when it is occurring.
Palette transparency is off globally. I have installed the latest NVidia driver for my Quadro NVS 285 video card. I am running a 3GHz P4 with 4 Gigabytes of ram - Dell Precision 380 workstation. Block Editor background color is default.
Restarting AutoCAD does make it go away - for the moment - but it is soon back. Even closing all tool palettes has no effect.
This does seem to be drawing specific - 2010 seems to be sensitive to something in older drawing blocks - prototype drawings from hotel vendors for instance - most likely inherited from a third party DXF process exhibit the issue heavily - and blocks from these drawings to a lesser degree. I have to constantly purge, audit, and wblock/replace my drawings to keep them clean. My default file type is 2010 which 'seems' to work, but it still happens. Audits show constant drawing errors cropping up, and repeating an audit, shows the same errors until a wblock replace is performed.
This is the top of South Mountain. South "Mountain" is about 1,000 feet high. We like to think that we are living in the mountains so a good many hills and towns have the word mountain in their name.
Computer hardware newbie here: I do a significant amount of photo editing work and for a very long time I've experienced Photoshop, Bridge and Photomatix crashing constantly (usually due to insufficient RAM) or just generally taking forever (Bridge took forever to load the thumbnail/preview extractions in a folder full of images, Photoshop took forever to save images and Photomatix took ages to load/merge a set of bracketed photos). Here are the typical error messages I'd get: [URL] ........
As a professional photographer, constantly running into that sort of thing is quite aggravating, so to hopefully avoid ever having to deal with that again I invested in a new custom built computer. It's Windows 7 Professional 64 bit with 32GB of RAM and a 240GB SSD; I'm using the 240GB SSD as my boot drive/OS, all of my programs are installed there, and the page file. My photos and data are stored on several HDDs. I have yet to install any of my photo editing software (Photoshop CS6 Extended, Lightroom, Photomatix etc) to the new computer yet.
My basic question is this: what is the best way to take advantage of the SSD (and the computer in general) when it comes to my photo editing software?
Specifically... 1. If I have a folder of photos I'm working on, should I move it to the SSD and then work on them from there in order to take advantage of the speed of the SSD? Would this make any difference in terms of speed if the photos are located on the SSD vs. an internal/external HDD? 2. Most of what I've read online seems to recommend two separate SSDs, one for installing/booting the apps and one for cache/scratch. Does it matter if I use my 240GB SSD for both? 3. This is a fairly new computer and the SSD is already almost half full (102GB used, 120GB free) *WITHOUT* any of my photo editing software installed yet. I'm concerned about how fast that remaining 120 GB may fill up. As it fills up will I lose the speed advantage of the SSD vs. a regular HDD? 4. Sort of similar to #3, but should I bother moving any of my other non-photo editing programs/caches off of the SSD to a HDD and would there be any major difference in the speed/lifespan of the SSD if I did so? It's mostly Firefox and Chrome and their caches that I'm concerned may be a problem if they remain on the SSD.
I am trying to take this photo which has some nicks in it and touch it up.
Specifically the areas in the bottom left where the floorboard, moldings join. As you can see it's pretty out of line. I don't have to get it perfect, but am trying to ensure it's not a noticeable glitch. I have about 5 of these I need to do, so any help as to if it's possible and how I can go about it would be great.
So far I've tried using the smudge tool, copying parts of the real and pasting it over it, however with the angle it's beyond my skill to do this.
Also the other glitch in the window trim on the right side...
