Xara :: Photo Editing - Adding Star Field To Photo
Dec 17, 2012
Putting aside the fact that you really can't see stars at sunset, and that if Polaris ever shows up near a setting sun, it's the End Of The World -- it's equally easy to add the stars to a nighttime photo..Next. Am trying to build a collection of photo-editing tips on the Xara-Users forum -- [removed link -link broken and or requires membership to view]
Xara's a LOT easier to use than Photoshop. But it is different. I know Xara's really for vector artwork, but when you end up using it more and more for photo editing, it's useful to have a bunch of techniques in one place.
After editing in perfect photo I cannot unstack the edited photo in LR4. The thumbnail shows the number of photos in the stack, but right click/expand stack has no effect. The edited photo is not showing.
is it possible to convert a photo into a silhouette in cd. I have been playing around with a few pictures but not getting great results, although they are improving each time. What I want to do is convert a picture of my neice into a silhouette and maybe cut it in vinyl.
Im trying to cut a photo of a tree and place it over a photo of a house so the house can be seen through every twig and leaf, at the moment I can only move the tree with the existing back ground. I have PHOTO & GRAPHIC DESIGNER 7.
I am trying to figure out if i can take a picture and edit the border so that the picture is in the shape of a star or a circle? The reason i ask is my mom uses this software to make T-Shirts and she needs to know if there is a way to make the photos into different shapes as opposed to just the rectangle picture
I was watching a tutorial about PSE 11 and then noticed that under my photo in the organizer I do not see the date, time, & star option. Do I have to turn something on to see them. Also I do not see a place under the photos to put a caption. I'm using a mac book pro.
Have you ever wanted to make a photo seem to have shorter depth of field? Prior to Photoshop CS6 this was no small feat to achieve digitally and end up with a pleasing and visually believable result.
Photographers know that setting the aperture wide can change the mood of a shot completely. Sometimes getting the DOF just right can make the difference between an "also ran snapshot" and an award winning photograph.
With today's smaller digital sensors - and even with big sensors if too small an aperture is available - sometimes we get an image that's exposed right, that's composed well, that's caught the moment. More of it is sharp than we'd like, and the background or foreground is simply distracting.
Enter the new Photoshop CS6 blur filters.With the Tilt-Shift variant, one can progressively blur pixels based on a definable gradient/mask, so that we get that familiar progressive front-to-back blur change.
Armed with this powerful new capability, and with the subject masking/separation facilities we've had for a couple of versions now, this becomes possible:
1. Separate subject from surroundings with a good mask - e.g., quick select, refine edge, make a new layer with just the parts you want to remain sharp showing on it. A good mask isn't difficult to make any more! Hide this layer when done.
2. Remove the subject, at least around the edges, from the background layer underneath, e.g., by selecting using the above mask, expanding the selection, and doing Content Aware Fill and/or Cloning. This is important because in the subsequent blur operation we don't want parts of the sharp subject blurring into the background. That just looks weird.
3. Use Photoshop CS6's Tilt-Shift Blur to visually shorten the DOF in the background layer, with the center point and unblurred region set to coincide with the position of the subject in the shot. Adjust the settings to taste, which isn't as much of a crap shoot any more since the blurs actually update in real time on screen.
4. Make the layer above visible, maybe do some things with the lighting (which is fairly easy, now that subject is separated from the background), and voila, a whole new feel to the photo.
Computer hardware newbie here: I do a significant amount of photo editing work and for a very long time I've experienced Photoshop, Bridge and Photomatix crashing constantly (usually due to insufficient RAM) or just generally taking forever (Bridge took forever to load the thumbnail/preview extractions in a folder full of images, Photoshop took forever to save images and Photomatix took ages to load/merge a set of bracketed photos). Here are the typical error messages I'd get: [URL] ........
As a professional photographer, constantly running into that sort of thing is quite aggravating, so to hopefully avoid ever having to deal with that again I invested in a new custom built computer. It's Windows 7 Professional 64 bit with 32GB of RAM and a 240GB SSD; I'm using the 240GB SSD as my boot drive/OS, all of my programs are installed there, and the page file. My photos and data are stored on several HDDs. I have yet to install any of my photo editing software (Photoshop CS6 Extended, Lightroom, Photomatix etc) to the new computer yet.
My basic question is this: what is the best way to take advantage of the SSD (and the computer in general) when it comes to my photo editing software?
Specifically... 1. If I have a folder of photos I'm working on, should I move it to the SSD and then work on them from there in order to take advantage of the speed of the SSD? Would this make any difference in terms of speed if the photos are located on the SSD vs. an internal/external HDD? 2. Most of what I've read online seems to recommend two separate SSDs, one for installing/booting the apps and one for cache/scratch. Does it matter if I use my 240GB SSD for both? 3. This is a fairly new computer and the SSD is already almost half full (102GB used, 120GB free) *WITHOUT* any of my photo editing software installed yet. I'm concerned about how fast that remaining 120 GB may fill up. As it fills up will I lose the speed advantage of the SSD vs. a regular HDD? 4. Sort of similar to #3, but should I bother moving any of my other non-photo editing programs/caches off of the SSD to a HDD and would there be any major difference in the speed/lifespan of the SSD if I did so? It's mostly Firefox and Chrome and their caches that I'm concerned may be a problem if they remain on the SSD.
I am trying to take this photo which has some nicks in it and touch it up.
Specifically the areas in the bottom left where the floorboard, moldings join. As you can see it's pretty out of line. I don't have to get it perfect, but am trying to ensure it's not a noticeable glitch. I have about 5 of these I need to do, so any help as to if it's possible and how I can go about it would be great.
So far I've tried using the smudge tool, copying parts of the real and pasting it over it, however with the angle it's beyond my skill to do this.
Also the other glitch in the window trim on the right side...
This is a picture made with the Instacollage app. I wanted to add two additional pictures. How can I make the boarders of the 2 additional photos (the 2 which are down) fit perfectly or almost perfectly with the rest.Untitled-1.psd
I am working on a photo of a city skyline that I took. I am looking to superimpose blue sky and clouds which normally isn't a problem if there were only buildings. The white spaces in between tree leaves such as palm trees are especially challenging to fill. They can be hundreds of distracting white spots in the scene to fill .
I recently had a friend take many photos of my family. Not one of the photos came out with all of us smiling and looking at the camera at the same time. Any suggestions of how to incorporate some photos together to make one good one? I have Photosho Elements 6 and I am pretty new to photoshop.
This may sound like a simple question for heavy users, but I just got started. I have all my edits completed, splices with transitions, etc. and decided to attach a photo from the available stock to the front of the timeline. I was successful at this, but when I try to expand the timeframe of that photo - pull it to the right to make it longer, it won't budge and is stuck at the given length when I dropped it in. Even at the control panel, I can't lengthen the time. The same happens at the end. I drag in a photo with the idea of adding titles to the end but I can't drag the photo to the right to lengthen the time. Is there something I'm missing?
except now I have a big problem with the programme, it does not allow me to upload more photos and images, it tells me that the format is invalid, even the photos that I inserted in my projects are not recognized any more.
I currently use Photoshop CS5 and Lightroom 4.1. I am in the process of having a new computer built just for editing my photography. The board will be an ASUS P9X79 with an intel Core i7-3820 and 16 GB memory. The technician would like a recommendation of the best graphics card for editing still images.
All of my work is done in RAW from a 5D MII. 21 megapixel.
My wife and I use CS4. Lately after she edits a photo and saves it as a jpeg, something happens. It's like it doesn't save with the .jpg extention. When she goes to her pictures folder to open the file, there is a blank thumbnail and it won't open until she manually adds a .jpg to the end or sometimes it won't even save.
I have Camera Raw 5.0 through Bridge CS4 and I shoot photos on my Nikon D40X in JPEG. Should I NOT be using Camera Raw to edit my non-RAW photos? Is it degrading my images? I noticed when I did some editing and saved the photo, the new photo size was about 25% of the original JPEG size.
If I upload a shopped image (basic editing, such as curves and selective colors for instance) on a site which anyone could see (naturally) and download if they like, can a person remove all the edit work to the point where the image returns to its first form?