I have a png file that has some letters, the letters are blurry after thescanning and I would like to enhance the tone of the letters, the lettersare black and the document is in many colours but black. How can I isolatethe black, thus the letters, from all the other colours and then enhance thecolour black so that the letters are thick and solid.
View 6 RepliesI am almost sold on getting Xara. But I know MOST of what I will be doing is making people's faces look better. Are there easy tools for enhancing skin and in general enhancing portraits? are there videos?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI've been putting together some tutorials for photographic retouching in GIMP, and have recently completed what I think might be useful to other GIMPers to know about: Luminosity Masks.
The basic premise is to use masks based on the luminosity of an image to restrict layer modifications to certain tonal values (only adjust light tones, or dark tones, or mid tones for instance).
Many people point to the Luminosity Masks tutorial by Tony Kuyper, so I put this together to show the same workflow for GIMP (there's also a short tutorial on using the masks for doing split toning in images).
I am using text on a picture and for some weird reason, when I am using the tool to mark up the letters so that the look nice, only some of the letters are effected. I don' t understand it. I have done this before, and this never happened to me before.
I am on debian wheezy, with a standard install.
I want to make a Christmas present spelling out the last name using individual photos of letters (see below). I would like the finished image to be 16x20, and I am going to upload it and have it printed at a photo developing shop. I'm not sure how to set this up in GIMP.
When I set up my new file, how many pixels should I make the new image, if my desired size is 16x20. I'm not sure how many dpi to use when I convert the inches to pixels. I read that 300 dpi is desired.
I was thinking about making image boxes for each letter in one layer and cutting and pasting each letter into the boxes. Is this possible or do I need to make a new layer for each photo?
For some strange reason, there is green in my white letters. I dont know why?
If you see the white letters on the orange button on the attached picture, for some reason there is green in the white?
We bought a JaguarIV plotter for cutting clear bra, but I was thinking that we could also use it to cut vinyl graphics. I have been watching some tutorials about paths and I'm getting quite good at manipulating curves and such. But I don't know if I can output to the plotter from GIMP. I tried just sending it as a print job, which I've heard you can do from Corel and Illustrator, but it didn't work.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI select the text tool, font and color and I type a word. How can I change the color of some of the letters in that word?
View 4 Replies View RelatedSo how can I accomplish something like the 'Reckless' text in the picture of the hat below using Gimp?
I already know how to 'text along path' but then the letters are skewed.
In the example, the red text is along the path (dotted red line). Normally the letters would slant too, but is there a way to keep them vertically oriented while doing text-to-path?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI have captured a still image using premiere pro 2. When I open the image in photoshop cs2 the image is grainy and has the interlaced lines.
So how do you make this image as clear as possible and get rid of the grains and lines?
I have tried FILTER>VIDEO>DE INTERLACE options but nothing seems to work.
I have saved the image from premiere as a bmp file.
Im working as a photo analyst for a scientific research project that is estimating sardine populations off the coast of north america. In a nutshell me and about 4 other guys are going to be staring at pictures of water until the wee hours in the morning all month with the hopes that in the end we can identify a rough estimation of sardine populations. Now me and all the other guys are not exactly what you would call photoshop pros, but between the 5 of us we know that adjusting the light levels, saturation, hue, and a few other things we can see the schools of fish pop out in all the photos. This is a lengthy process and if done for each picture we would take all year to finish when we only have a month. I was wondering if anyone on here had any experience doing this sort of thing or would be able to advise me on how to do this quick and/or make the schools pop up extremely clearly.
Original photo (shot by a plane at 8000ft)
Post lightroom editing, and touch ups in photoshop we get
Ive resized the after picture to make it smaller but you get the drift. The dark spots are the schools of fish and what we are after in the photo. At best we get a few that stand out in extreme contrast to the water but most of the time it takes 20minutes of fiddling around with settings to get barely darker smudges to come out for us.
I have a request for a profile picture I have. Its a picture of me wearing a skull mask. Now I was trashing around with photoshop myself for a little bit but the only thing I could do to it was make the edges dark so that it looks like darkness around me.
what I tried to do myself, but what failed.......quite a bit XD, was making my eyes glow red or bleu and maybe make the background of my room more......death style like :P but what I am mainly really curious about is the eyes
here is the picture
In my opinion i think the Ellipse Select Tool could be a little more ellipse (even in a 800% zoom). In this image we see that the ellipse tool starts out as a small square; than it will gradually become a circle. i'm not against it but i do think there should be an option for you to pick, in the Ellipse Select Tool options, between a pixelated circle or a perfect circle.
The same can be said about the Rectangle Select Tool when it is rotated.
We all know the illustration in the glossy car brochure has been enhanced - before Pshop days it was done by film retouches. I admire that work and would like to achieve similar results - making my car photos more like 'glamor' shots or 'studio' shots, starting with pictures of my own vintage car a 1936 Ford.
So far I've struck out on searching the web for techniques specific to this task, probably because I'm not using the best search terms. Automobile glamor retouching, or vehicle retouching was no luck.
Is there a specific name for this kind of retouching/enhancing/studio look? If I had a clue as to whether it's a recognizable trade or specific job I might be able to follow that lead.
Understand, i'm not asking you to do the work, just point me in the right direction.OTOH, if you do know of a site devoted to this I'd be very interested. I do remember completing a lesson in Scott Kelby's earlier 7 point book, where an automobile shot was improved, and that's been useful.
I have a couple or three (probably more) small-ish sized images that have crappy quality (they're grainy/noisy-ish and whatnot y'know).
My question is: in general, what would be the best way to enlarge the photo, make it look smooth, and more/less "professional quality" without losing any color? I know whichever method of doing this would require playing around with the settings in each step with each picture.
I'm fairly new to using bump maps and have a question about a wood grain bump map.
I am using a bmp file in the material editor for the wood grain, along with a UVW modifier to make the grain run differently on the different pieces of the furniture. I was hoping to "enhance" the appearance of the grain on the wood, so I thought I would try a bump map by using the same bmp file and set it to 30%. While there is much more texture to the grain than wanted, I'm wondering why the vertical instances of the wood do not seem to have the map applied?
Aside from that question, is there a better way of enhancing the grain pattern without necessarily increasing the texture?
I have elemnts 10. I have been unable to perform editing and cropping of my pictures due to the following error message:
your system is low on disk space and elements cannot perform this opperation. Try removing some files to free up space
I have a 6gb harddrive on my computer with 530 gb of free space
I have deleted pictures from my catalog
I have purchased 20gb space on your site
I have checked for any problems with my computer none found
What else would you recommend that I do?
I'm trying to print out a bunch of stickers using Photoshop CS5 and a Brother MFC-265C printer. Problem is that sticker paper seems to be bad in quality/very thin thus the colors comes off very dull. how to maximize brilliant colors? I'm using CMYK colors.
View 2 Replies View Relatednew user to GIMP. Trying to add text, but when I type - instead of the letters appearing in the text box, the shortcut keys are being used instead.
For example:
If I type "R", instead of "R" appearing, the Rectangle Select Tool is selected
If I type "M", instead of "M" appearing, the Move Tool is selected
This has only started today, hasn't been a problem before now. Just wondering if I've accidentally turned on a feature?
How to even out the skin color, I have a picture of a model, unfortunately due to light and make up and her skin color the color of her face and her hands and body don't match, I think I saw a video on youtube where the skin color was evened out throughout the picture from raw I think this was done on bridge but I am not sure. How to even out the skin color either on PS or bridge?
I currently have CS5 on a win 7 pc.
if there was a way to create a brush that half was the foreground color and half was the background color...
for example, I have a mountian brush. and the shadow of the mountian is black, as is the outline, but alot on the inside is white. Since its white, when i use the brush, if they overlap, you can see through the mountian... not exactly what i was going for. So, any way to use 2 colors? or make the brush sold without making it all back? I tried a shade of grey, but that just creates an lighter opacity of the forground color, and the FG/BG jitter just chages the color of what was originally black.
How do I create that two-tone effect (on the people)?
View 7 Replies View Relatedi've been trying to immitate this effect eversince i learned Photoshop but i can't seem to get it right do you guys know how?
View 3 Replies View RelatedHow I can remove orange tone of a photo taken by night? A random example from google images:
View 1 Replies View Relatedi have an image half the image is much brighter than the other half, i do not mean the sun is shining in one half anf the other is in shade, the image has a fault, a third of it is a diagonal strip like brushing the dodge tool over part of an image, i would like the image to be the same shade an colour and brightness, or near as i can, i have tried using the mask tool and dodge tool but it is quite messy,
View 1 Replies View RelatedI was asked to take the group photo, cut out the black girl, and insert the young man. See all images below and my results. the only thing I'm not happy with is the young man was better lit than the group one. I was playing around with the controls of the young man to bring his tone more in line with the group (hue; saturation; color levels; etc.) and I just could not figure it out.
what I can do to get the young man to match up tone wise with the group? Or vice versa, even?
For quite a while I have been using the Photoshop HDR for initial processing of my HDR shots. My workflow is to "open in HDR Pro in Photoshop" from Lightroom. With LR 3.x and CS5 there was no problem - make the initial tonemapping settings in CS5, hit "OK", and save the resultant TIF back to lightroom for further processing.
With LR 4.1 I do the same thing, the files import into CS6 and the tonemapping window comes up, but after I hit OK in the tonemapping window, the resultant tonemapped TIF file is oversaturated(This still in CS6). It needs about 30 points of saturation reduction in LR to get it back to what it showed in the tonemapping window.
I have colour gamut set for Pro Photo RGB in both LR and PS. I can show some screen captures later.
While editing two very similar photos and using the CS6 auto-tone command, one of the photos photoshop was able to truly fix up while the other barely changed. Here is the example:
Photo A was very blue and dark; the auto-tone command magically fixed it up to have nice color variation in the rock and made it brighter. Here is the before/after:
On the other hand, photo B didn't work out the same way; the auto-tone command barely did anything, even though I thought both photos looked to have very similar problems (blue, dark, etc).Here are the links to the full original photo A and photo B in case they are useful...
how can I achieve on photo B the same effect that auto-tone did for photo A! Is there any way to find out what adjustments auto-tone made?
As a preliminary to a digital painting I need to identify the overall mid tone (tonal value, not hue) of a color photograph and then reproduce that mid tone in the CS4 Color Picker (or somewhere) so that there is a choice of color tints that can be given to that particular (overall mid) tone. It will then be used to simulate an imprimatura transparent wash treatment over a white canvas (layer).
It should be easy I'm sure but I haven't been able to find a way to do it. I had hoped that Levels might be used to identify the mid tone, and then give it an identifier (?like an RGB number)which could be used in the Color Picker to choose a color with the mid tone value.
In the histogram palette menu there are red, green and blue histograms to give the saturation of those colors, and a luminosity histogram to give the overall ( greyscale) brightness. There is also an RGB option, presumably to give a composite version of the red, green and blue saturation. In Levels, however we have the same thing, except there is no luminosity option, only RGB. But RGB in this case cannot be a composite of the three color channels, as we use it to adjust brightness and contrast; in other words it is presumably the same as Luminosity in the histogram palette. Despite this, when I do adjustments to an image the RGB histogram in Levels looks identical to the RGB histogram in the histogram palette. I'm using PS 3 Extended.
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