Is it possible to tag photographs in a .dwg. e.g. if we have a .dwg of a surveyed field, and within this field there are some areas of interest. Can a point be created in the .dwg that could be double clicked to open a link to a .jpeg.
Having trouble with sending drawings out in dwg format with photographs on, ok with pdf's. Ihave tried different methods, copied and pasted photos, (made sure they are small file size). I have tried to attach image in x-ref manager, is there a way to bind the photos into the drawing?
I have sent drawing out but lost images, also i sent drawing out zipped up with folder with photos. Using relative path, i still cant get it to work. What is correct method to insert images into a drawing so they are bound in? is there a way.
I use the Magnetic Lasso in CS to guide a line along the edge of the backdrop between the ground and the sky. It takes time and can be a pain if there are trees. Then I create another layer and place in a more agreeable sky.
Question. Is this the only way to effect the solution to the problem above. I have tried the magic wand and in reality it is more of a problem.
Is it possible to create a 3D composite photograph of a person using photoshop?
My 13-year-old wants to design her own clothes, for which she wants to create a 3-D dummy of herself. She was asking me today whether a series of full-length photos of her standing motionless on a revolving platform, could be combined using Photoshop (or some other program to make a 3D composite image. (I own Creative Suite 2.)
I have an Epson 2200, Photoshop CS2, monitor calibrated with Spyder PRO, using epson profiles to print on a given media, followed the directions on www.computer-darkroom.com. My prints aren't even clsoe to what I see on the screen. I have no idea what else to try. Colors are completly washed out and the print is significantly darker, making the shadow areas loose their details.
I have Photoshop 7 and need help in printing out photos (I am a new user). After I have edited the photos I want to print them out on glossy paper using an Avery form number.Â
The image is 2560 x 1920 pixels, when i check image size in photoshop the image is 90.31 cm x 67.73 cm. The image is opening at this size by default, as i have been using a 5mg pixel camera to take the photograph.
Using the bicubic sharpen option I am simply reducing the image size to 60cm x 45cm, but when i am printing off test strips, there is still alot of pixelation.
I would presume that because i am reducing the size of the image that there would be less pixelation but this doesnt seem to be the case. Is there anything that i am doing wrong or could do to ammend this?
Is there any other way of reducing the size of the image, while still retaining the quality?
I have a series of photo's of artworks which were taken whilst hanging on a wall, I need to remove the shadow from the one side and edit out any blemishes such as pencil marks which are on the wall in the background, basically so it looks as if they're hanging on a plain white wall. They can't be cropped to having no background either.
I've tried blurring and pasting in sections of the wall where there's no shadow, but it doesn't look good. The pictures aren't dead centre either which makes it more difficult.
I'm fine with the basics of photoshop, but something slightly advanced like this
I was wondering how it is posssible to create monochrome image of a person, where the background is reduced to entirely white, and the person is converted to an entirely black silhouette?
way to put text to a photoghaph with out putting it on the picture its self. Also want to save it as some other file type than PDS such as a jpg file.
Now I extend the canvas image size and type into the extended area and save as jpg file. Was hoping there was an easier quicker way or may be some other software that will let you add text to a photograph so it doesn't cover the picture.
I'm converting all of my photographs into digital. I don't want to do them one at a time since my scanner takes so long to scan, so I'm scanning four or five at a time. I want to cut the resulting image into individual photographs. Is there an easy way to do that? Attached is an example of the bulk photo scan.
I went into Windows 7 Picture Manager and annotated the images with a number and a short description. This gets them into the order that I want. When I imported them into a newly acquired Elements 11, the program put them into DATE order. How can I get the sequence into the order that I WANT, ie, by image name, something that W7PM does quite happily?
In lightroom 3 on my Macbook Pro, my orignal photograph is clear, in focus, and sharp. After I export the photograph, it turns into a blurry, out of focus, fuzzy photograph..
All photographs collection contains more photos than in folders - (Using LR 4) There are about 6k more photos that are in my catalog (All Photographs) than what is showing up in my folders below. All of my photos are located on an external hard drive. I have them organized by year. So for example, if in LR I click on 'All Photographs' in the library module, I can see hundreds of photos from 2009. I can also see all these photos on my external hard drive under the 2009 folder. However , these photos do not show up under the folders in LR. I've tried 'synchronizing' my folder in LR, but it thinks all of the photos are duplicates, since they are indeed already in the catalog (just not the folder)
I am trying to import a sequence of 30 odd photographs which were taken in a tracking shot over about 10 seconds. I need to import them and then register them so they form a smooth animation (i.e. I basically want to take the jitter out of them). I have CS3 and a trial version of CS5 extended.Â
I'm trying to make some textures for a 3d game with a digital camera.
If you look straight at a wall, and take a picture of it, it will be most likely that the edges of the wall won't all have the same color, because of lighting.
I have no problem getting the perspective and size of the texture right - my problem is getting the shades of the texture even, so that the final texture is seamless (i.e. if you place them next to / above each other, you get the illusion of looking at one image, and not a bunch of squares which don't fit together nicely).
Do some of you have some tips on what I can do to get rid of my problem? Is there some way to "even out" a specified color range? Do some of you maybe know some tutorials on the web which discuss this (I haven't found any )?
I have a picture and I used photoshop's elliptical marquee tool to create a circle. I used the circle and cut and paste so that I have a circular chunk of the photograph.
However, when I copy and paste the circular patch into MS Word or PowerPoint, I get a WHITE rectangular box surrounding the circular photograph.
So, I take a photograph (Nikon D70s raw format), get the colour balance right and sort out the curves. The picture looks great! Bright, crisp with zingy colours. So what happens when I Save For Web, flat, dull with muted tones. What am I doing wrong? The picture is in RGB 8 bit.
I am new to gimp and want to use it mostly to make mandalas from digital photographs. I found a tutorial online for making mandalas in photoshop and though it seems to be transferable to gimp for the most part, I am having some difficulty actually recreating the example. URL....
I have to reduce 4 very large TIF files [each one is about 250MB!] to a more manageable size to stitch together and apply as a watermark. They seem to have been taken at about 1.5km above the ground and are very high resolution at 8000x8000.
I still want to retain reasonable resolution at about 250m above the ground so my question is what is the best way to reduce each down?
Would I resizing them in actual size as well as reducing dpi?