I have a series of photo's of artworks which were taken whilst hanging on a wall, I need to remove the shadow from the one side and edit out any blemishes such as pencil marks which are on the wall in the background, basically so it looks as if they're hanging on a plain white wall. They can't be cropped to having no background either.
I've tried blurring and pasting in sections of the wall where there's no shadow, but it doesn't look good. The pictures aren't dead centre either which makes it more difficult.
I'm fine with the basics of photoshop, but something slightly advanced like this
Last week I have made photo's of 140 different paintings. Some paintings were very big, some were very small, some where rectangle shape, some were square shape. All paintings were set upon a stand and I photographed all of them from my tripod. So you can understand that on some pictures I have large paintings and on some photos I have small paintings.
Now I want to remove everything around the painting so that my photo ONLY shows the painting (even the border around the painting has to be removed). Â First I select only the painting. Then I inverse my selection and remove it. So I'm now left with a photo of only the painting. So far no problem.Then I select the painting and with CTRL T I place the 'reference point location to the upper left corner and than set the height to 2000px. The painting now becomes 2000px high, but the width isn't corrected so I click on the 'maintain aspect ratio' and the painting is okay. This is now done with (for example a square painting). Â But when I now perform this action on a rectangle painting, the end-result is a square painting.
I'm fairly new to Illustrator and have been going through a lot of tutorials on using the program with the goal of converting a number of paintings into vector artwork. Â I can't seem to find any techniques for shade and color what I have so far. Â Here is the original, which I used as a tracing template: Â And here is what I have managed to do so far in Illustrator, exported as a PNG:
How would I go about achieving the blend of coloring in the front blue wave? I have tried gradient meshes, but they don't handle the curves of the waves very well.  Any tips on the techniques I could use to color this artwork.
I use the Magnetic Lasso in CS to guide a line along the edge of the backdrop between the ground and the sky. It takes time and can be a pain if there are trees. Then I create another layer and place in a more agreeable sky.
Question. Is this the only way to effect the solution to the problem above. I have tried the magic wand and in reality it is more of a problem.
Is it possible to create a 3D composite photograph of a person using photoshop?
My 13-year-old wants to design her own clothes, for which she wants to create a 3-D dummy of herself. She was asking me today whether a series of full-length photos of her standing motionless on a revolving platform, could be combined using Photoshop (or some other program to make a 3D composite image. (I own Creative Suite 2.)
I have an Epson 2200, Photoshop CS2, monitor calibrated with Spyder PRO, using epson profiles to print on a given media, followed the directions on www.computer-darkroom.com. My prints aren't even clsoe to what I see on the screen. I have no idea what else to try. Colors are completly washed out and the print is significantly darker, making the shadow areas loose their details.
I have Photoshop 7 and need help in printing out photos (I am a new user). After I have edited the photos I want to print them out on glossy paper using an Avery form number.Â
The image is 2560 x 1920 pixels, when i check image size in photoshop the image is 90.31 cm x 67.73 cm. The image is opening at this size by default, as i have been using a 5mg pixel camera to take the photograph.
Using the bicubic sharpen option I am simply reducing the image size to 60cm x 45cm, but when i am printing off test strips, there is still alot of pixelation.
I would presume that because i am reducing the size of the image that there would be less pixelation but this doesnt seem to be the case. Is there anything that i am doing wrong or could do to ammend this?
Is there any other way of reducing the size of the image, while still retaining the quality?
I was wondering how it is posssible to create monochrome image of a person, where the background is reduced to entirely white, and the person is converted to an entirely black silhouette?
way to put text to a photoghaph with out putting it on the picture its self. Also want to save it as some other file type than PDS such as a jpg file.
Now I extend the canvas image size and type into the extended area and save as jpg file. Was hoping there was an easier quicker way or may be some other software that will let you add text to a photograph so it doesn't cover the picture.
I went into Windows 7 Picture Manager and annotated the images with a number and a short description. This gets them into the order that I want. When I imported them into a newly acquired Elements 11, the program put them into DATE order. How can I get the sequence into the order that I WANT, ie, by image name, something that W7PM does quite happily?
I am trying to import a sequence of 30 odd photographs which were taken in a tracking shot over about 10 seconds. I need to import them and then register them so they form a smooth animation (i.e. I basically want to take the jitter out of them). I have CS3 and a trial version of CS5 extended.Â
I'm trying to make some textures for a 3d game with a digital camera.
If you look straight at a wall, and take a picture of it, it will be most likely that the edges of the wall won't all have the same color, because of lighting.
I have no problem getting the perspective and size of the texture right - my problem is getting the shades of the texture even, so that the final texture is seamless (i.e. if you place them next to / above each other, you get the illusion of looking at one image, and not a bunch of squares which don't fit together nicely).
Do some of you have some tips on what I can do to get rid of my problem? Is there some way to "even out" a specified color range? Do some of you maybe know some tutorials on the web which discuss this (I haven't found any )?
I have a picture and I used photoshop's elliptical marquee tool to create a circle. I used the circle and cut and paste so that I have a circular chunk of the photograph.
However, when I copy and paste the circular patch into MS Word or PowerPoint, I get a WHITE rectangular box surrounding the circular photograph.
So, I take a photograph (Nikon D70s raw format), get the colour balance right and sort out the curves. The picture looks great! Bright, crisp with zingy colours. So what happens when I Save For Web, flat, dull with muted tones. What am I doing wrong? The picture is in RGB 8 bit.
I have thousands of photographs in my desktop and wish to copy them to my laptop. And is it possible to sychronise them? Both computer use Windows 7 and PSE 11.
I am having problems with importing still images into a time lapse sequence in photoshop.I want to create a time lapse using a sequence of still photographs. All file names are sequentially name/numbered.  I am using the Motion workspace, and have followed all of the instructions available. Create correct sized new document (film & video).Create video timeline. Set frame rate. Choose 'create new video layer from file'.Point to first image in the folder where the images are stored.  At this point, no matter what I have tried, I receive this error:  I have tried different sized new documents; tried jpegs and tiffs; tried different frame rates, tried different qualities and sizes of images; tried selecting the last image instead of the first (one recommendation).  If I use the 'Place' command from the file menu (and check the 'image sequence' box) instead of selecting 'Create new video layer' from the layers panel, it loads fine and I can still render the video.  It took me most of a day to discover this workaround, but every other reasonable 'how-to' that I can find says that I should be able to do it by opening files into a new video layer and it seems as though the new video layer option may give me more alternatives.  I have reset Photoshop, deleted the settings file, even reinstalled it. I use 64-bit on windows 7 and even installed the 32-bit to try that, but all with the same result.
how should I size a photograph to attach it in sensible proportions to an e-mail when using Elements 11? In Elements 9 I set the dpi at 72 and then the longest length at 1024mm.  he shortest length was set automatically by the programme. Elements 11 doesn't allow me to do this. I've tried starting off with 72 dpi but as soon as I enter the longest length the dpi changes. This did not happen with E9 and in E9 the size of the attachment was measured in KB's but with E11 I finish up with quite large MB sizes.Â
