Just dipping my toe into Premier Pro, I have to stitch together 1000 pictures from a time lapse photo shoot. I can import and change the time for a batch of frames, but it leaves gaps between each frame. Is there a simple way to make all frame snap together?
View 5 RepliesI have 6 separately saved video projects which I've now been asked to stitch together into one video.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have a video shot on a webcam on 720 resolution and 15 frames per second. When I import it into premier I can't find a 720 setting at 15 frames.
View 10 Replies View RelatedEdited my footage in a sequence in normal size.
I wanted to make it widescreen, so I made a new sequence in 1920x810.
I then copy pasted my edit into the new sequence and started rendering.
The render window kept adding frames to render, and the percentage jumps and very slowly adds 0.1% into the progress.
I tried choosing a smaller amount to render, same problem still persists.
Why does it now want to render normally? Why does it add frames to render all the time?
I have been attempting to export a video from both Premiere and Media encoder in the H.264 codec and it continually discards the final few seconds of black frames. I have tried placing black video there, but it doesn't make a difference.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI've recently started using Premiere Pro CC on Win7 and noticed that when I apply color changes via Fast Color Corrector (or others) that some video frames don't get the correction. It's an odd thing that I don't see in Final Cut Pro X which I use on a slower Mac. No errors or any other inconsistencies appear and sometimes it's 1 - 2 uncorrected frames scattered here and there or it may be more or larger groups. I suspect it may be some simple setting that I've missed but can't seem to find it. Here's an example. [URL]...
Windows 7 Pro
32 gig RAM
250GB SSD
I have just started using the multicam since upgrading to 7.1. Apparently I have got a 2 hour sequence with only two cameras all HDV footage. After about an hour of my live cuts, I started noticing slight freeze of about a second or so when I cut to a camera. I tried this with the mouse and the keyboard and still the same.
I am running Windows 7 Pro 64 bit,
HP XW6600
Dual Xeon 5450 @ 3Ghz
GTX 570
16GB RAM
may have accidentally set Premiere Pro so that every out point I set, it advances 5 frames ahead, making it very frustrating to make cuts at precise points. There is now a dashed orange line next to the cursor. I can't find the setting to disable this.
Here is an example of what it looks like in the timeline:
i have cc 7.2.1, and every basic operation i do on the timeline , moving clips, trimiming, scrubing on the timeline everything lags, its not fluid. When i do a simple scrubring on the timeline, the CTI takes sometime to get to the position i selected to do the playback.
But the worst part is the trimming or moving clips, it takes ages before i get an image on the program monitor. If i move a clip into a middle of 2 clips it takes ages to see those two little privews images with timecode, to see where to put it. So is very hard to edit like this.
Another odd thing is when in redering mode i select to use sofware only i dont have drop frames, when i chose cuda i have drop frames!!
I´m editing h254 from a 5d and 7d on externa llaccie usb 3 , have the a macbookpro 16g i7, iris pro and nvidia 750m, and a external samsung, via DVI.
I'm making skins for Vst software synthesizers & FX and use Photoshop CS2 (and partly 3ds Max 7) for my projects.
The main tricky things I face problem with are VU meters, faders and mainly knobs. In general all I have to do is make 128 (or less) differrent frames of the moving knob and then stitch them perfectly one above the other vertically and then export the final image (the mondage) as tga file 32 bit uncompressed with Alpha channel for the transparency. They must be perfectly stitched (not even a pixel wrong) or else the knob or fader will wobble as you move it.
I manage fine with square VUs & faders where no transparency is present (I have also recorded an action for this) but can't find a way to deal with frames which have transparent background such as knobs or circular VUs (or even square faders which have a transparent space around them).
The procedure I follow is:
-Open frame1 file (which also has Layer Fx as shadows, bevel etc)
-Ctrl+click on the knob layer icon to select it.
-Select inverse
-Layer Mask-Hide Selection (from the Layer menu)
-Canvas size: same width, double hight added down
-From the Channels tab I make visible the mask I created earlier
-On the image: Magic Wand (not anti-aliased checked, tolerance=32) on the unmasked square underneth my mask to select it
-Delete the mask channel.
-Open frame 2 document
-Select all & Copy Merged
-On frame 1 document: paste into.
-.....I continue in the same way for all the frames till done.
2 problems:
1) Sometimes the frames are not perfectly alligned to each other causing wobbles while used as knobs or VUs.
2) If what I design is not dead centered (sometimes I want it to be this way),
then when I Paste Into, Photoshop automatically alligns it to the selection borders (the center of the square selection) even though I have deselected Snap from the View menu. (..don't forget we are talking for transparent background)
I'm having trouble stitching photos together in CS4.I am stitching together photos from microscopic flourescence images. I am trying to get a single image of the entire specimen but every time I try photomerge it leaves one of the images in the corner. It does a great job of adding all of the other images together but every time it refuses to add the last image (it could be the first, the point is that it is an image on one of the ends).
View 4 Replies View RelatedHow can I manullly stitch or join multiple pictures that were suppose to be taken in panorma mode but were not.
I am using PS 6.0
took a huge number of pictures. I tried to take a sort of 'panoramic' picture by holding the camera steady and rotating it (just rotating the camera, not moving it's location or anything). I ended up with a whole bunch of photos and now I want to stitch them together. I have 3 photos that together cover the whole panorama I want to print out.
So. I've played around a bit in Photoshop and I just can't seem to get it working. There is a bit of an overlap on each photo so my idea was to sort of choose what I wanted from each and use the eraser to give myself that effect. The problem is the perspective is screwy and it doesn't look quite right. I also have a problem with my camera in that the right side of the photo is considerably lighter than the left side, this doesn't matter for most photos but it's something I have to somehow deal with for this panorama.
When I was 12 years old, i was watching tv when i spotted Bert Monroy on ScreenSavers he was giving a tutorial bout stitching texts... since i don't know bout photoshop yet i couldn't understand a thing he was saying, but i still got fascinated bout the output....
Now that i know how to use Photoshop i couldn't meet the same results as Bert Monroy's. I Know it's abouty the Brushes Palette but i seemed to have tried all the settings but still haven't found the results i wanted.
I just need to know a few things before trying to stitch some photos I took:1. Do the pictures need to be in JPEG or RAW?2. How many pictures, at most, can I stitch? I have tried about 6 photos in RAW as it came from the camera and I think it was to much.
View 1 Replies View Relatedway to get a stitching effect is.
I want to create a stitching effect border, that will surrond text.
Ive made an example in paint if your unsure of what i mean
how to stitch two images together using Adobe Photoshop 7
View 4 Replies View RelatedI've encountered a very common problem with thin white lines appearing in some of my vector imagery in Illustrator CS5.5. Like with most stitching errors, I get this when using shapes with gradient transparency. There's also some shape distortion happening depending on the level of zoom I'm on.
I understand that this may go away when printed but I actually intend to e-mail a portfolio PDF that contains these vectors which is meant to be viewed on screen. I have tried turning the transparency of the objects to 99% but the problem would not go away. I've tried disabling anti-aliasing which removes the white lines but makes the vector jagged and not smoothed. The shapes that I'm using comes from text that's been broken apart with gradient transparency added to some parts.
The top is what the image looks like in actual size and the bottom are zoomed up to further show how it looks like.
when I create stiching look, such as this ---------, I've created a line and ereased the middle part.
But is there any way I can create a path and somehow manupilate the pen/pencil to create the stitch?
I already know the "spacing" function on the brushes palette. This doesent really create "-". It's more of ".".
I shoot with an a900 and would like to stitch the ARW RAW files it produces.
Unfortunately the results are pretty awful. No matter how I import the shots (through bridge, LR or PS4 itself) or the type of RAW (DNG or ARW, even TIFFs) the wizard will align but not stitch the photos together. Plenty of examples can be found in this flickr set: Code:
My understanding is that Panoramas Stitching (=>PaSt) feature is available with PhotoShop Elements (PE). I am not familiar with the PE product. Is PE a stand alone product or does it require PS?
Is PaSt available with PS (with which minimum ver.)?
I read here in the forums that there are various capacity problems with PaSt.
In that regard, and any other aspect, if PaSt is available with PS, what are the main differences using PS or PE with PaSt feature?
I recently bought Myst 3: Exile
View 4 Replies View RelatedHow do you stitch two separate images together so they become one image?
I have looked in Help and can find no reference to 'Stitch'. Does this procedure go under another name in PS?
Is there a way to make a stitching effect around an object. As if it was sewn around the edges.
View 3 Replies View RelatedWhen I make panoramas in Photoshop CS6 (after selecting and preparing individual images in LR4), I sometimes wish to modify Photoshop's automatic blending of layers. An example is when a moving person is in two or more adjacent frames & I wish to use a version from a different frame than PS selects. The layer masks are all either pure white or pure black, thus selecting the portions of each frame that is used, but with no gray portions for blending. Opacity of all layers is 100%. So, some other invisible-to-me mechanism is being used to seamlessly blend the layers. When I try to select portions of a different frame (in areas of overlap) by painting white on a mask and black on layer masks above it in the stack, I can partially make visible the desired area but it appears as partially transparent & thus low contrast. How can I get full control of what is included in the final composite?
View 1 Replies View RelatedHow would I stitch two images together that are in portrait orientation so they display nicely in a slideshow template. My landscape images are sized to 1200 x 800 pixels which works very well with the slideshow template. I have Photoshop CS6.
View 4 Replies View RelatedIs it possible to do panoramas and stitching photos together with PSPPX3?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am trying to stitch together a sequence of wake boarding shots and put them into one picture. I have done it semi-successfully only once and would love to learn how to re-create this awesome effect every time. This is the one photo I did get to work... although i cant get any others to work.
I am pretty sure I didn't do this correctly but it was the only way I could figure out how. Here goes... I started by bringing in all the images into separate layers into cs3 I then selected all of them and chose Auto-Align. Once it got all of the frames onto the canvas I arranged them from left to right in to layers palette then chose the top image in to layers palette and chose create mask.
I then used the eraser tool and brought the next image through so that i could see it. Once I could see it I would move onto the second layer in the layer palette and create layer mask and do the same for all the layers.
Once done I would choose Auto-Blend and it usually leaves a few of the frames out of the picture. This is what the unsuccessful ones looked like
I have also tried not doing any of the clipping masks, by just bringing in the pictures and then going straight to AutoBlend after I did AutoAlign this is the result that yielded.
I scanned several magazine covers (believe it or not I'm one of the few who still dosen't own a digi cam) and now want to place each pic/scan side by side or one on top of the other to resemble what a picture would look like if I had taken it with a digi cam.
Any ideas?
I decided to take a panorama of the beach I was on, and as a general the photo's came out well and all have around 20% overlap, however when I put the photos into Photomerge in Photoshop CC or CS6 it results in this:
As you can see part of the image decides to float above another part and there's even one below the lower segment. The panorama itself is 22 images, but I only used eight to try and find out if the problem was the number of images, it appears it isn't. I've tried both the "auto" and "perspective" options under the Photomerge dialogue, neither works. It should be noted that before it "blends the images", under the layers section, all of the images do line up.
I'm using the images in their RAW format (.NEF), although I did try in the .jpeg as well, neither worked.I'm running Photoshop under a VM as I'm running Ubuntu, although I did try on my Windows 8 laptop as well, again neither had a good result.
I stitched a landscape but my parallax was probably too much. See the attached photo. I have used the clone tool in the past but many new tools have been added and I think I saw somewhere that theres a way to select this with a bounding box and then warp it over.
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