How can I calibrate my monitor so that the photographic images I see on the screen matches what comes out of the printer. Have tried Photoshops monitor calibration. and have tried adjusting the the image's colour to match the print out The photographic images are in CMYK
View 3 RepliesWhenever I create a new colour in the colour swatches it only stays there for a couple of actions while working on a project. I understand from others that once they create a colour it stays there. Why can't I get that to happen?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am using CS6 and the Replace Colour Tool no longer allows me to replace multiple colours when I select the + . So when I have the panel open and I highlight the +, I used to then be able to click on several spots in my image and all of the colours that are in those spots are added to the selected colours that will be changed by using the sliders.
But now, when I use the + it has exactly the same effect as not using it - I can only choose one colour or an other, I can't add.....I want to reset this to the original way that this works.
Currently I have to open the panel, change one variation of a colour, save it, then re-open the panel and do it again (and again and again) until all the colour variations I am trying to remove are are changed. I know I also have the 'fuzziness' slider, but it does not give enough control.
I am designing a T Shirt for my ski club.I have taken an image from a banner (made in illustrator, full colour image attached) and I want to devide into a 3 colour image for the t shirt (I am only allowed 3 colours for printing).The colours I want to use are black, white and purple. The colour of the t shirt is a light blue.I want to then put the purple logo on top of the white and black too.So I'm after a black and white grunge background with a punchy purple logo on the top.All of this should be on a tranparent or, for design purposes, light bue (same as T Shirt colour) background.
how to split a full colour image into using only 3 (4 including transparent/light blue background) exact colours.
If I were going to black and white I might convert to grey scale and then paint areas to fully white or fully black using an overlay brush I don't think this works for me for more than just black and white though.
I have attached two of my attempts where I used the colour range selection and level adjustments. Niether was really successful though (one does not use the right colours or number of colours but looks quite cool).
Is it any different than CRT calibration?
I just don't think my colors are correct.
I have a lacie electron blue iv 22 crt as a main monitor that runs great and i don't see myself replacing any time soon, cheapo NEC 17" LCD as a secondary and both running off an XFX nvidia geforce 7600gtx. the lacie is running analog output and the nec is running digital.
I get good color from the lacie and on all my prints (oly 330n and kodak 1400 pro, both are dye sub printers). still using adobe gamma from cs2. is this something i need, or should i just stick with what works. (i guess the answer is stick with what works, but do you guys think i would actually GAIN anything by going for this.)
I will like to find out the colour code for the background colour on a particular web address. Unfortunately I am new here so not allowed to post links so will say this as creatively as possible. the address is theregentlagos (with the usual prefix beginning with w and suffix beginning with c for all websites). I am referring to the colour where the menu items like logo, home, brands etc are on.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI've been asked to convert an image to 2 colour for printing. I have the image as a full colour CMYK layout (with layers), but the whole thing needs to be converted to 2 colour. I have the pantone reference numbers for the 2 colours it is to be converted to. I am familiar with the hue/saturation tool, but this just seems to convert it to one colour, and you have no fine control over the exact colour you want.
View 3 Replies View RelatedThere is an vast amount of information on this topic, that topic being LCD monitor calibration. Some LCD have presets, theater, games, etc. I want to calibrate my LCD so that if someone else is viewing my work on their monitor and they complain it is too light or to dark, I can say it is your monitor.
One of my LCD has two presets that are of interest 'standard' & 'sRGB' my other LCD doesn't have any presets. What is the best or near best calibration I can manually set both monitors too, if this is even possible on LCD.
When we slide the saturation slider for a primary to the left end (completely desaturated position), does it mean that we move this primary to the white point on the chromaticity diagram?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI was wondering what people were using for a calibration tool for monitors. This is not my profession so I am not looking to spend $500+ on a calibration tool but it seems like there is some fairly good units out there for under $300.
View 2 Replies View Relatedcalibration hardware like Spyder?
View 4 Replies View Relatedi want to calibrate my monitor and printer and computer so they all read color the same way does anybody have any advice of how i can achive this with ease?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI've got an older iMac G3 OS 9 and am trying to use the calibration tools that came with the computer. When it asks to select a "white point" ....how am I to know what to use?
any recommendations as to monitor calibration hardware/software packages, spendy or not?
In Camera RAW my defaults for the tab: CAMERA CALIBRATIONS are:
Process 2010 (current)
Name Adobe standard
How can I change these default settings in:
Process 2012
Name: camera standard
I'm using a CANON EOS 400D
My monitor is calibrated with Spyder2. Every time when I start Photoshop and open file (new or existing) my calibration info is gone. I have to apply color calibration for my monitor again. Why Photoshop resets my monitors color calibration info and how can I avoid this?
View 10 Replies View RelatedA very similar problem as discussed, but not solved before:[URL]...Planar 26-inch Wide gamut LCD, Eye One Display 2 and latest Lightroom. Just upgraded to Win7 64bit and kaboom. After hardware calibration and profiling all colors in Windows looks great but pictures from my camera (GF2) look dull in LR and don't match what I see when save for Web and look through the web.
Same images opened on calibrated XP machine looks fine, all colors are as expected. If I don't use hardware calibration on Win7 machine and just tweak the sliders in control panel->color management the colors look somewhat off but not dull and consistent and behave as I expect and used to. I've tried both ColorEyes DisplayPro and i1 Match programs in simple and advance modes with the similar (bad) results.
i recently performed monitor calibration with spyeder4pro.
The problem: on Photoshop with my calibrated monitor the pictures looks worm and colorful on my iPhone or i pad the same pictures looks cold and colorless .
I have recently bought a new Sony LCD screen and would like to know the procedure to calibrate it so that what I visually see on the screen matches - as faithfully as possible - what I get out of my printer.... Is it possible or am I asking too much? I tried to calibrate the monitor by the gamma utility that comes with PS 7 but the sliders that I have to move to calibrate the screen are stationary and wouldn't move.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have had three computers using Photoshop (both PC and Mac) using both Epson and HP printers. The color calibration was not perfect on any of those setups but close enough were only minor tweaks were needed between the monitor and printer output.
My new Mac G5 and Epson R1800 however is WAY off. The colors on my images are coming out extremely saturated. I am in RGB mode. Does anyone have any ideas why this should be so far off and, if so, what I can do to correct it without going to a complete calibration procedure.
I just got a new computer installed, same monitor tho. Ever since I got this new computer, I am unable to print in PS as well as I used to be able to a couple days ago. The color is way off. I have applied my color settings throughout all my Adobe programs to be the same in AI 10, ID CS3 & PS 7.0. I also have a Xerox Phaser 7750 GX.
There is a computer in back of me that prints great & how my computer used to print. Are there some settings that I should check there to compare with?
what software do you use to calibrate your monitor, for it to accurately show the colors intended for printouts?
i'm currently using Samsung 2032MW for my PS work, have not really tried calibration software before.
I've been bitten by the color bug, and I want to know if anyone at PS has hardware that measures your monitor (spektrometer?) along with the software that I could borrow (or even perhaps buy?)
If it was for borrow, I would pay for shipping both ways as well as a perk for thanks. (I don't know if I can justify buying something that I'd only use once) But aside from using the proper color spaces, this should adjust the phosphors and such for perfect color calibration.
(It's amazing moving work from once PC to another how the color changes)
I use AdobeRGB1998 color profile for monitor and Photoshop.
When I have calibrate monitor I must use new color profile?
I'm having this problem for a couple of weeks now and can't seem to figure out whats wrong. I've read dozens of websites & forums but can't figure out what's wrong. Maybe someone can help me out here.
I have a wide gamut monitor (Eizo S2231W) which i have calibrated with a DataColor Spyder3Pro. Since then the colors in Color-aware programs such as Photoshop, Safari and FastFiewer look way off. For example, the sky turns from blue to purple. I tried to re-calibrate a couple of times, deleting all ICC-profiles, re-install the software. Nothing helps me to get rid of this color shift. Well, getting rid of the Spyders ICC-profile solves it, but this device is supposed to improve my colors, not ruin it.
My camera profiles in the camera calibration section of ACR (for a Nikon D200 and a Nikon Coolpix7000) are not embedded. I am running CS6 and ACR 7.1. How do I get the supported camera profiles to display?
View 1 Replies View Relatedhave a new Nikon Camera. using flash taking photos inside. For some reason the Histogram on the back of the camera is short of any light pixels, ie they're all grouped in the dark to centre of the histogram, ie the photos are dark. Thing is they look great on the back of the LCD screen and it seems the photos are correctly exposed.
Okay here is the question, does Photoshop have any settings at all, anywhere, which could give the user flexibility in altering any brightness settings when files from a digi camera are imported? I'm thinking a setting for import in photoshophas may have been set too low, hence a dark photo, because the difference between the back of the camera and the image popping up in Photoshop is massively different.
I'm assuming that it's no, so I can rule it out and concentrate on what Nikon have to say.
I've run into a snag which hasn't bugged me before because I never used a second monitor, but now that I do, Photoshop and Illustrator don't function properly.
I am running my Adobe products on my Lenovo X61 Thinkpad Tablet, which is Wacom PenEnabled. It's got the basic digitizer pen and pen pressure features, no stylus tilt or anything.
Whenever I run Photoshop or Illustrator in Extended Desktop Mode so I can have a different window open on my external monitor and the Adobe app on my tablet screen, my stylus goes strange. It seems to think that the extended desktop is part of the Adobe window, so when I move my stylus to draw, the cursor will appear on the external monitor, usually proportionate to the size of the screen...ie. It interprets the external and tablet screens as one desktop and the top left corner of my tablet screen is the top left of my external, whilst the bottom right on tablet IS the bottom right on tablet, if that makes any sense...sorry.
So I can't draw anything in photosho unless I set it back to standard desktop mode, or mirrored desktop. I've searched over the net and these forums and I can't find a fix for this. I was walking in harvey norman the other day and the Wacom Cintiq 12" was there on display, and it had the same issue with extended desktop and photoshop.
My system details are:
Abobe Photoshop CS3 10.0.0
Adobe Illustrator CS3 13.0.0
OS: Windows Vista Build 6001, Service Pack 1, 32bit
RAM: 2GB
HD: 18.2GB free Disk Space (out of 66.3GB on the Active Partition)
Video: Intel GMA: Mobile Intel(R) 965 Express Chipset Family
I am printing on an Epson Stylus Pro 4800. I am using Photoshop CS2 (version 9.0.2)and have the Color Settings set at North American Prepress2 which was recommended for using ICC settings. I have the printer set to "No Color Adjustments" (i.e. let Photoshop control the color).
Each time I send an image to print, the printer is printing color calibration bars then ejecting the sheet. The image is printing on the second sheet. At $2.50 per sheet (fine art paper), I can't afford to waste the paper. Does anyone know how to turn the color calibration bars off. I have already checked the Output Options in the print dialog box and the calibration box is unchecked.
I've been struggling with color calibration for a while now. I have two displays:
1) Samsung 226BW (22" 1680x1050) which is a pretty cheap TN panel and is very poorly calibrated by default
2) Viewsonic VP930B (19" 1280x1024) which is a nicer panel and pretty well calibrated by default
Video card = 8800GT. In XP, I always used the nView calibration tool an followed the onscreen sequence to get both screens very nicely calibrated, and they would always stay that way. In Vista, unfortunately, NVIDIA has decided to not carry over their excellent nView software. So I'm stuck leaving the Viewsonic uncalibrated (which is mostly ok), and for the Samsung I use a software from Samsung called "MagicTune" which takes me through a series of onscreen exercises (not unlike nView did) and leaves the monitor pretty well calibrated. I've tried other software like QuickGamma and simply cannot get the same results as I can get with the MagicTune, which puzzles me.
Anyway, the problem is that (1) MagicTune almost never applies the correct "MagicTune profile" at startup, so I have to apply it manually, (2) I often have to re-open MagicTune (after gaming, for example) and re-apply the correct "MagicTune profile," and (3) MagicTune only functions well when the secondary Viewsonic (unsupported by Samsung) is disabled, so I often have to go through a long complex rigamorole of disabling and re-enabling the display to get MagicTune to work.
Is there any way I can "save" the color calibration state that the Samsung is in (when properly calibrated by MagicTune) and use a different software (or just Windows) to apply it, so I can stop relying on MagicTune? I know that I can manually adjust a lot of things about my color calibration without using MagicTune, but without the MagicTune exercises on screen I cannot achieve the same end result, and the "profile" created by MagicTune can only be applied by MagicTune.
attempt to calibrate my Dell Inspiron 9300 lab top using Spyder2Express.
View 6 Replies View Related