I just got a new computer installed, same monitor tho. Ever since I got this new computer, I am unable to print in PS as well as I used to be able to a couple days ago. The color is way off. I have applied my color settings throughout all my Adobe programs to be the same in AI 10, ID CS3 & PS 7.0. I also have a Xerox Phaser 7750 GX.
There is a computer in back of me that prints great & how my computer used to print. Are there some settings that I should check there to compare with?
I am printing on an Epson Stylus Pro 4800. I am using Photoshop CS2 (version 9.0.2)and have the Color Settings set at North American Prepress2 which was recommended for using ICC settings. I have the printer set to "No Color Adjustments" (i.e. let Photoshop control the color).
Each time I send an image to print, the printer is printing color calibration bars then ejecting the sheet. The image is printing on the second sheet. At $2.50 per sheet (fine art paper), I can't afford to waste the paper. Does anyone know how to turn the color calibration bars off. I have already checked the Output Options in the print dialog box and the calibration box is unchecked.
I have recently bought a new Sony LCD screen and would like to know the procedure to calibrate it so that what I visually see on the screen matches - as faithfully as possible - what I get out of my printer.... Is it possible or am I asking too much? I tried to calibrate the monitor by the gamma utility that comes with PS 7 but the sliders that I have to move to calibrate the screen are stationary and wouldn't move.
i want to calibrate my monitor and printer and computer so they all read color the same way does anybody have any advice of how i can achive this with ease?
I've been bitten by the color bug, and I want to know if anyone at PS has hardware that measures your monitor (spektrometer?) along with the software that I could borrow (or even perhaps buy?)
If it was for borrow, I would pay for shipping both ways as well as a perk for thanks. (I don't know if I can justify buying something that I'd only use once) But aside from using the proper color spaces, this should adjust the phosphors and such for perfect color calibration.
(It's amazing moving work from once PC to another how the color changes)
I've been struggling with color calibration for a while now. I have two displays:
1) Samsung 226BW (22" 1680x1050) which is a pretty cheap TN panel and is very poorly calibrated by default
2) Viewsonic VP930B (19" 1280x1024) which is a nicer panel and pretty well calibrated by default
Video card = 8800GT. In XP, I always used the nView calibration tool an followed the onscreen sequence to get both screens very nicely calibrated, and they would always stay that way. In Vista, unfortunately, NVIDIA has decided to not carry over their excellent nView software. So I'm stuck leaving the Viewsonic uncalibrated (which is mostly ok), and for the Samsung I use a software from Samsung called "MagicTune" which takes me through a series of onscreen exercises (not unlike nView did) and leaves the monitor pretty well calibrated. I've tried other software like QuickGamma and simply cannot get the same results as I can get with the MagicTune, which puzzles me.
Anyway, the problem is that (1) MagicTune almost never applies the correct "MagicTune profile" at startup, so I have to apply it manually, (2) I often have to re-open MagicTune (after gaming, for example) and re-apply the correct "MagicTune profile," and (3) MagicTune only functions well when the secondary Viewsonic (unsupported by Samsung) is disabled, so I often have to go through a long complex rigamorole of disabling and re-enabling the display to get MagicTune to work.
Is there any way I can "save" the color calibration state that the Samsung is in (when properly calibrated by MagicTune) and use a different software (or just Windows) to apply it, so I can stop relying on MagicTune? I know that I can manually adjust a lot of things about my color calibration without using MagicTune, but without the MagicTune exercises on screen I cannot achieve the same end result, and the "profile" created by MagicTune can only be applied by MagicTune.
I would like to do a decent calibration of my Epson V750 Pro scanner to achieve a color-managed workflow. I have the latest version X-Rite i1 Photo Pro 2 calibration kit, and although this enables me to calibrate my monitor and printer, it does not support scanner calibration.Â
I do have Silver fast Ai Studio which includes a scanner calibration facility - is that the best available to me or are there any other options, possibly using the i1 spectrophotometer as I know that it used to be possible to carry out calibration with the older versions of that equipment? Other than that, I'm using an Epson 3880 printer, running Vista x64 and using Photoshop CS5.
As you can see by the spelling of "Colour", I'm outside the USA!
A bit of background: I graduated in photography a couple of years back and I've used PS6 and now PS7 quite extensively. I use an Epson 3200 scanner to scan my medium format (6x7) and large format (5x4) negs and trannies (that's FILM trannies...not the other kind!). If they are for exhibition, I'd burn them to CDROM and get a digital lab to print them for me otherwise they'd get printed on my Epson 760 (yes, it's quite old now!).
I've always had issues getting the screen calibrated. How would you guys go about correcting the relationship between the scanner/screen/printer? The screen is a Viewsonic E70 and I use the E70 profile.
I recently calibrated my monitor with Spyder 4 express and the panels turned green. I am using windows 7. I reinstalled Lightroom but panels are still green.Â
No problem when printer manages color. 1-hour photo service was fine also. Printer color management is turned off, in fact greyed out. I tried different papers and icc profiles with same results. CS5, Mac OSX 10.8.3, Canon Pro 9500 Mark II.
We print out spot color seps every day using CorelDraw X4. After we print out the plates, I have to cut down the vellum that we print on so that we do not have a bunch of extra blank vellum on the sheet.
We make use of the info that is printed on the lower left of every page where it states something like the following:
S:DirectoryWhereTheArtworkisLocatedfilename.cdr
Wednesday, December 23, 2011Â 8:00 AM
Plate: 1 of 3
After I cut down the sheet, I then have to hand write the name of the spot color onto the sheet of vellum in marker.
Is there any way at all, to make it so that CorelDraw would actually add the name of the spot color that is printed on each page to the information that is already being printed to the lower left? Ideally, it could be placed in the same area where it's already printing the plate information on the last line.
I'm running Mac 10.7.5, with Photoshop CS5. My printer is a Brother MFC-J435W. Until just recently, I've not had any problem printing anything. But a few days ago I can't get the printer to print in color off of Photoshop. Any other program (LibreOffice, Preview, etc...) it prints color images just fine. But all Photoshop documents for the past week have been coming out black and white. I've checked and double checked all the Print dialog settings, and they're all set for color. Puzzled and annoyed does not accurately express things..
I have photoshop cs4 and i'm trying to print to a Toshiba 6520c color copier. I set it to print in color but it only prints black and white. All the other cs4 products will print in color. Has anyone else run across this problem. photoshop will print to our other color copier just fine (its a konica minolta bizhub). I'm thinking it may be a communication issue with photoship and the toshiba print driver.
I got this sticker design in black and in red (#EE2A24). Now when I print it with my own printer it looks darker and less vivid than on the screen. I put the colors to CMYK format. I also get the exact same result when I print it in RGB.
I have seen a difference in the color and the shape when I send something in to be printed by a Print company. The file looked alright to me on the screen, but when I got it back the shape was "stretched". I print inkjet CD labels on a Primera Signature Pro Printer as well and some of the labels have come out stretched out of shape as well. It's not terribly out of shape, but enough to mess up the artwork. Any suggestions as to how to check for proper sizing and color?
I work for a small manufacturing company and started using Photoshop 7 to create our magazine ads. I have done pretty well, but the only part I do not understand is how to print out 4-color hard proofs in order to send to the publication.
Currently I do 98% of the ad work and then have to send it out to a printer to create the final 4-color proofs to send to the publication. How can I do this on my own?
is there any difference when printing if my images are in CMYK in different colour modes? I will be printing in Spain and i would like to know if there is one more suitable than other. For example, US Web Coated or Japan Color 2001.
I'm using photoshop cs6. i would like to know about how to convert RGB image to CMYK. then how to convert into two colors(yellow & black).finally i like import into any vector drawing software (illustrator, coreldraw) for printing.
I have Photoshop cs5. I also have the Epson R1900 printer. I love this printer but if I don't print enough the heads get clogged. Any RGB color codes or a site where I can download a color bar page that would represent all eight colors of my Epson printer.
What I want to do is print a 8.5 x 11 page every few days that will use each of the print heads wherefore keeping the print heads from clogging.
I'm creating images in Photoshop and printing to a Xerox solid ink printer. If I print in greyscale everything is fine, but if I have an image that has both color and B&W portions, the greys come out green (or brown depending on whether I print from CMYK or RGB). Is there any way to have a portion of an image in a color space and others in greyscale?
what I might try as far as the printer? If I print CMYK the greys come out really green but all the other colors are good. If I print RGB the greys come out browner (which is a little better), but other colors get muddy.
Is there any way to get a printer to stop trying to "interpret" greys as a color when in a color mode?
Have used 6 versions of Elements and then moved to CS3 2 years ago. Have printed 100's of large format images using HP Photosmart Pro 8350 and 8750 printers. Results have been excellent with CS3 set up to let printer manage color and at printer color management level the setting is colorsmart/sRGB which is HP's default for printer managing the color. Installed Design Premium last week and significant differences from monitor to preview of print image. Print test results are all too vibrant and dark-muddy.
I changed about every setting I could in both CS4 and the printer to find a match up. I wrote every single one down for reference. I then reinstalled CS3( removed when I installed Design Premium). CS3 had the same problem now ( No I have not reinstalled Design Premium yet) CS3 is removed and I am  back to square one. I know the monitor set up is perfect as I have access to a very expensive spectroradiometer and the calibration including gamma is dead on. I then experimented with bringing up an image to print using a very routine editing program named Microsoft Digital Image Suite. The preview was perfect as well as the print( on both printers using the settings listed above).
Did a lot searching on the internet for a similar problem. Found none with HP printers but did find several instances with Canon printers( too vibrant too dark) but could not find a resolution. I am really open and appreciative of any suggestions. I don't care if I have already tried them. I will try again. Oh I also reloaded the printer drivers on both printers, no improvement.
I'm unable to get correct results in printing through Photoshop Element 11 and my printer Epson R1800.Though, it works correctly with other software that support colorsync (ex: DXO Optic Pro 8). Â I tried every combination with my ICC profile : "let photshop manage colors", "let printer manage colors", ... Each time the resulting print is too dark.Even worth : when I print several time the same photo with the same parameter under Photoshop Element, I don't get the same result each time. Â On DXO, I print by activating colorsync with the same profile I use with Photoshop Element and the result is always great with each time correct colors rendition. Â My configuration is : iMac 24 2007 + Mountain Lion + Epson R1800.
I am using Elements 6 for Mac with OS 10.6. My printer is a Canon MG8120, which uses several color cartridges (including a black and gray) and a pigment black cartridge. Â Today I tried to print a B&W line-art document, and it printed in a faint yellow. I tried another B&W doc, and the same thing happened. I exported the documents as both .pdf and .jpeg, and they printed in B&W using the Preview application. Â As it happens, all the color carts in my printer are either low or out of ink. Only the pgiment black is full (I put it in yesterday). So I wonder if my B&W docs have been printing from the color carts and not the pigment black cart. Is there any way to get PSE to use the pigment black cart?
I’m wondering about color spaces and how they affect working with BW digital images and digital printing (working in PS and LR).  I’ve been thinking that the grays are probably more limited by the bit depth (65,536 shades of gray for 16-bit vs. 256 shades for 8-bit.) than by whether or not you’re working in ProPhotoRGB or AdobeRGB, but that’s just a guess on my part. Does these two color spaces really better than the other, specifically for BW images and digital printing (I'm printing to an Epson 3880)?
I'm designing a roll-up banner with an image of two people that has to be on the banner, so I use Photoshop for the background + the image of the people. Â What is the best color depth (8/16/32 bits/channel) for this roll-up banner when working on 100% of the original size: 1260x2120 mm? Other tips and tricks for future designs concerning color depth?
I have PS CS6 and like to do B & W prints. I print them on my Canon MX870 printer (4 color printer) ... they turn out quite nice. VERY Black & White. Recently, I started doing B & W with a small highlight of color... like a photo of my daughter and her friends with just her red shoes in color.
The Black and White is now not truly B & W... it is slightly tinted ... purplish. I have tried adjusting the levels and contrast but it only changes the tinting to other tints... bluish, redish, etc. I use cmyk 300dpi (typical of what commercial print shops would use). Still no success. Or am I stuck having to send my photos to a printshop for printing?
Whenever I print on my Mutoh from a file created in Photoshop, whether it's a PDF or TIFF, even though the background color is white it always prints in a very faint reddish color. How do I resolve this?
