I'm designing a roll-up banner with an image of two people that has to be on the banner, so I use Photoshop for the background + the image of the people.
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What is the best color depth (8/16/32 bits/channel) for this roll-up banner when working on 100% of the original size: 1260x2120 mm? Other tips and tricks for future designs concerning color depth?
Macosx 10.7.5
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When I start up PSE11 and go to print I set up the paper size then select a Printer Profile. When print the image it is a mess and seem to be black and white it is as if I printed on the wrong side of the paper.
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I then go and try to print it again.  Now it all works as it should beutiful colours and spot on. all other print following this works.
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Then I shut down PSE11.  Start it up again. Guess what first print is a mess again.  all others after are fine.
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I uninstalled PSE11, deleted prefs. and reinstalled PSE11.   Same thing..  first print a mess all others ok.
no problems with PSE10 or PSE9.
How can you format or resize the photos as wide screen format so they will display in wide screen mode on Sony photo frame players?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI just joined and this is my first post. Actually I have not even downloaded the Paint.net program yet - have to wait till I get home from the office. Thought I would ask if the program is pretty user friendly for creating wallpapers, and if there is a "template" for it. I will want to create some "wide-screen" format wallpapers, so wondering what dimensions those usually are - should I assume that is determined by the actual dimensions of my monitor??? Free -floating questions from a newbie..!!!
View 3 Replies View RelatedI'm trying to find a editor that will allow me to do some basic things with a very large tiff file created from a wide-format scanner. I had hopes that Paint .NET would do it since it seems to support 64 bit. The file I'm trying to edit is 1.7GB uncompressed tiff. Unfortunately, Paint seems to take forever to load (5-10 minutes), even when I have at least that much available memory on my 4GB Win7-64 machine. Are there any tips to conserve memory or to make this possible?
View 1 Replies View RelatedThis was exported to tif and sent to the printer, the glow is a white outer glow.
As I usually do I exported the whole thing to a TIF and low and behold black lines in the print.
This was the bullet proof way of getting what you saw on the screen to hadcopy but sadly no more.
Can this be addressed in SP1, as it puts a serious hole in all the signies bag of tricks for that matter any body who wants to output special EFX from Corel.
i want to convert autocad drawing which indicates water depth data as text into txt format...x reference and y reference and the digital value indicated at the reference in xyz format...
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have a wide gamut monitor (HP LP2475w) which has already been calibrated. My question isn't so much about that, but the settings I should be using inside of Photoshop (CS5). As far as color settings (ctrl+shift+k) goes, what am I supposed to use? I have sRGB as the rgb working space right now. (never use CMYK), Gray % Spot = dot gain 20%, and preserve profiles are ticked on for all 3. Am I supposed to be using Adobe RGB in RGB working space to get the most out of my monitor? I'm asking because it would be embarrassing if I had a wide gamut monitor and am working within a sRGB color cap. What are the proper photoshop color settings, so that it works well across the board (browser compatibility, etc)
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I am a professional digital artist who specialize in illustrations for print campaigns. So far from what I've seen, whatever's been printed out of what I produce from this monitor has come out pretty much looking the same, so I'm not worried about that. Again, I just want to make sure I'm not careless and am using settings which doesn't make use of a wide gamut monitor.
I have got a logo that is 451 x197. It has a resolution of 72 px. I am trying to increase the resolution so that I can use the image for business cards and letterhead.
I need for the image to have a width of about 2500 pixels. If I scale the image to 2500 pixels the edges look pixelized or blurry.
My question is: Is there a way that I can make the 471 px logo stretch to 2500 px and still have sharp edges?
A friend of mine asked me if a could find a quality pic (intenet) of some gold bars. I searched iStockPhoto and downloaded one .eps file whitch I wasn't too happy with. Then I searched Google (large images) without a result. In desperation I searched Microsoft Office Clipart and found something (.jpg) I might be able to improve. I've used PS7 for some time but with this 8 bit image I feel "blocked" on where to start making the image looking more natural colourwise. Could someone please put me on the right track? Thank you. (I hope I've got the linking to the img. OK)
View 3 Replies View Relatedi'm using photoshop cs on windows xp sp2,
i would like to know how to know an image color depth and how to change it ;(jpeg file)
I'm in OS X 10.8.3 working in Illustrator CS6. I have a MacBook Pro hooked up to a calibrated NEC PA271W monitor.
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I've been working on some CMYK design documents with a mix of process and Pantone. All art was created in Illustrator and is vector. Everything was going fine, colors looked great and super-accurate as they always do with this monitor. Then...
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I was exporting my design to PDF via Save a Copy. As I always do for PDFs I'm sending to a client for review, I chose to convert the colors to destination sRGB in the PDF options dialogue so they can be reviewed on screen.
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Upon viewing the PDF using QuickLook in the Finder, I noticed that—rather than being converted to sRGB and looking pretty-close to the CMYK AI file—the PDF was extremely dull as if all colors had been desaturated 50%.
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I tried other variations of the export and could not get the colors to look right (note: I did the exact same exports many times over the last week and they always looked great). Finally, I restarted my comp thinking perhaps it was just a temporary bug.
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Upon opening my design file back up in Illustrator -- all the elements in the design file itself as we'll as ALL color palettes within illustrator had the same horrible desaturated look! CMYK proof preview was not turned on it affects all files, even those that worked perfectly in the past. I didn't knowingly change any settings in Illustrator (is there a make-all-colors-look-grayed-out shortcut I don't know about?!).
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Things I've tried:
Trashed all custom color profiles and re-calibratedTrashed all ColorSync prefs and cacheRan ColorSync validation on all profiles, fixed those with problemsChecked that CS6 color was synchronizedChecked that all profiles on documents were correct (though I knew it wasn't this because of the random nature of the change.Restarted my Mac a bunch of times.Ran Onyx automated cleaning.Â
I'm aiming to take RAW photo files, edit them in a wide color space, and when posting them to the web, save them as sRGB.
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My workspace is as follows:
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I open RAW files in Photoshop via ACR as 16-bit ProPhoto smart objects. When I finish editing them, I use "Save for Web" with the "Convert to sRGB" and "Embed Color Profile" boxes checked.
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Photoshop and Bridge tell me the profile in photos saved as such is sRGB as expected. When I upload to a site like flickr, however, the metadata says the photo is still in ProPhoto. See an example here: [URL]...If I use "Convert to Profile" and change it to sRGB, then upload to flickr, the metadata says the photo is in sRGB, as it should be.
I have a Gateway 500SE PC, Home XP, Nikon View 6.0.0, Photoshop Elements 1.01. I have a Nikon D100 camera. When I import a Nef uncompressed file into Elements it gives me an error box...Unsupported Color Depth. I must change these pictures to a supported color depth. This takes too much time to change every picture in a folder when you want to make a contact sheet What is this and how do I fix it?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI want to print my work. my destination is laser printer in RGB mode. I confused rather I should use Photoshop PDF or TIFF. As I understand PDF includes lots of feature that are not relevant to Photoshop. TIFF in the other hand is a simple and none compressive format that should make the job well.
View 11 Replies View RelatedI have this photo here as an example and its specs are:
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2200 x 2134 px 300 dpi
cm 17.8 cm 18 cm
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if I was asked to do a large banner for example 10 meters x 10 meters(i'm converting 10 meters to pixels and I get :37795.275590551) to go on a building wall.the fact that the photo is 300dpi would that be efficient enough to get a good result without pixelation? or do the pixels within the image need to be even more to secure a better print? if the pixels were double the amount would that be more efficient for example 6000 pixels x 6000 pixels does that secure crystal clear print? I read in various forums that the distance would also play a large role,in order to set the resolution value.
Not sure how to search for this. I will ask my question. Using PS CS6 need to create at photoshop image to print on a large banner 10' x 12' How should I go about setting up the file...should I create to actual size? should I set up for 72 or 300 DPI? Should I create at a smaller size in order to NOT take up so much hard drive space and then allow printer to enlarge.. and if so how do we NOT get the pixelation when going from small to extremely large? Is there a file that can be save as (PDF.. TIFF) that you can enlarge indefinitely like a EPS?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have 60-something 24 bit PNG images that I've edited in Gimp, many of them include transparency. I want to batch convert them to 256 colors while keeping the transparency. Can this be done? I did try it in another editor and any attempt to keep the alpha channel transparency resulted in totally washed out colors and transparency where none should exist. Conversely, if I skipped the transparency the color depth reduction went well.
View 6 Replies View Relatedis there a way in LR (or bridge) to filter all images that are saved as 16 bit images.
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i noticed i have a lot of scanned photos/slides that don´t need to be in 16 bit TIFF format.8 bit is enough for them and would save me a ton of HDD space (even when most of them are LZW compressed).
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but i need a way to find them in my 80000 images database.so that i can make a further selection which of these 16 bit images i can convert to 8 bit.
I just built a new workstation PC, but since the motherboard has built in DVI, HDMI and Displayport outputs, I decided to wait with buying a dedicated GPU. The motherboard will use the intergrated graphics in the CPU instead. I will at some point buy a GPU, but mainly because I also play games on occasion.
However, now when I look at my images, they don't look as good as on my old computer with a dedicated GPU. This is true especially in the shadows where it seems the bit depth is very low. I was under the impression that a dedicated GPU won't have any impact on image quality other than for 3D rendering, games etc. Do I need set the bit depth somewhere? Maybe it's a driver thing?
My new system specs are as follows:
Intel i7-4770K
Asus Z87-Pro motherboard
32GB RAM
500GB WD Velociraptor
WIndows 8.1
A way to filter tiffs by 8 vs. 16bit and also color space? If not doable in PS another means of doing it.
View 1 Replies View RelatedHow 2 color printing and 4 color printing will work? What are the designing conditions for 4 color printing and 2 color printing?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI'm new to Maya and the 3D design environment. I'm going thru the online tutorials and built the sample Greek temple. I have a MakerBot replicator 2. I did convert the Nurbs to polygons for the column bases and the temple roof. I exported the individual pieces to obj format to print. My question involves the export of the roof/torus group. The "roof" is not smooth but slightly faceted (I'm not using the correct jargon here I'm sure). It's kind of tortoise shell like in smoothness. What do I adjust during export so the rood object comes over smoother?
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I'd attach the roof file but the site doesnt allow for some reason.
Best option for large format printing and scanning? We print about 5000 pages a year. Our Xerox 8825 has servered us well but it doesnt communicate with Windows 7 and now appears to have stopped communicating with everything.
View 0 Replies View RelatedI am doing some freelance work and the client sent me several .ai files. They were a mess, and should have been created in InDesign to begin with, so I transferred them over. At the time, I copied and pasted the links, but of course, the images don't show up in the links panel in InDesign. I'm assuming this will be an issue for printing, is that right?
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I went to find the original links, and couldn't find them anywhere in the folders I was given. When I looked at the .ai files I was given, I found out that the images were embedded. When I select an image, I cannot choose to "update link" or "edit original." Those options are grayed out.
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How do I get those embedded images to InDesign in an appropriate format for printing?
Exporting large file sizes. In short I'm trying to export some images for large format printing but am having trouble preparing the right size in LR4.
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Specifically I'm trying to produce w 30" x h 20" images. I understand that to do this I'll need a image that is 9000 x 6000 pixels set at 300 ppi. My problem is that when I export this, with the dimensions set to width and height in pixels and resize unchecked LR4 produces an image that is 9000 x 4887?
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what i'm doing wrong here? Is it simply that the aspect ratio of image is wrong to produce this size image? My concern is not producing an exact file size for printing.
I created a work in PSP using raster + vector. The image is configured to A3 paper dimensions.
I want to send it to be printed in an external store. With CorelDraw, it is just sending the CDR file (with vector in curves) and the file by itself shows A3 paper dimensions when opened. So, the guy who will print just make the job, without any question!
It seems to me that files like PNG or JPG can’t be handled as CDR file by the person who will receive the file. So, what should be the better PaintShop file format to send to external store to be printed in the way I mentioned?
No problem when printer manages color. 1-hour photo service was fine also. Printer color management is turned off, in fact greyed out. I tried different papers and icc profiles with same results. CS5, Mac OSX 10.8.3, Canon Pro 9500 Mark II.
View 10 Replies View RelatedWe print out spot color seps every day using CorelDraw X4. After we print out the plates, I have to cut down the vellum that we print on so that we do not have a bunch of extra blank vellum on the sheet.
We make use of the info that is printed on the lower left of every page where it states something like the following:
S:DirectoryWhereTheArtworkisLocatedfilename.cdr
Wednesday, December 23, 2011Â 8:00 AM
Plate: 1 of 3
After I cut down the sheet, I then have to hand write the name of the spot color onto the sheet of vellum in marker.
Is there any way at all, to make it so that CorelDraw would actually add the name of the spot color that is printed on each page to the information that is already being printed to the lower left? Ideally, it could be placed in the same area where it's already printing the plate information on the last line.
Could it read:
Plate: 1 of 3Â Color: Pantone 375
For some reason, my colour picker appears to have changed into a format that I do not necessarily get on with.
Any ideas how to get it back to normal?
Color picker box has changed. I would like to change it back so tones are in big box on left and colors or hues in small box on right
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