Photoshop :: What Are Methods For Cutting People Out Of Backgrounds
Jul 11, 2013
I was wondering what is everyone's methods for removing people from their background? I have looked into many things but every one has given me issues and I really would like to get cleaner cuts much easier, without me having to spend a very long time trying to just get a simple photo cut out.
I have tried doing Quick Selections and then using Refine Edge; but when I do that I got some glow lines around the person; and everyone says try and use Shift Edge but they fail to notice when you shift the edge to get rid of the glowing lines it goes in on the photo so I'll be missing part of the person like there ear or head. Even if the glow lines aren't too big and I can get rid of them with some time; its a massive pain because it just fills the space between the ear and head because it's a small area; so when it makes the glow lines it fills it completely and turns it entirely rubbish.
I have also tried using a Plugin from Digital Film Tools called Power Mask - Which is essentially masking but making the masking method easier. However not all of the person is fully masked, like some of it isn't the foreground it goes like a lesser opacity of the white to more of a gray and when I switch over to what it then would look like; the person has missing bits or issues because the mask not working fully. Even when I go around twice to make sure it's all masked; it makes some, I don't even know some mist or white glow around them which I have to go around and remove and it's such a pain in the ***.
where I can get complicated photos of people cut out well? like say their hair is blowing in the wind, I want to be able to get a nice clean cut of the hair too; so I need something that works well without there being glow, or missing parts of the person etc, and I don't want to have to spend more than an hour just to get a cut out of one person.
A college showed me a Wedding video (low Budget) he brought back from Istambul containing about 180 photos simular to the accompaning, which are seemingly cut out in some detail. As far as I know there are no magic solutions but if I was to use my normal PS pen-tool to cut images out it would take aniternity.
ie. photo take back ground? - tools ? - settings etc....
Is there a simple way of cutting a figures or items away from the backgrounds of one or more photos and and merging them into a paint net background image to make it look like the figures belong in the paint net image,not just superimposed or floating on the front of the image. I have been trying to create an image of my grandchildren together in one picture and not just stuck on, also trying to do this with animal images
I have photoshop elements 11. People analyzer will not recognize people or allow me to tag people in my photos. It works with my older camera photos such as from my Nikon D300 but will not work with photos from my D800 (RAW).
I recently upgraded from PSE 10 to PSE 11. I already used tags to identify People by name. However, in the new People View not all of my people tags are present as People Stacks despite running the face recognition function. If I use the Add People function it just runs the face recognition feature that I have already run and named the specific person I want to see in the stacks.Strange thing is when I click the Add Group button I can see the missing people but do not know how to get them shown in the People Stacks?
I have about 11,000 pix in PSE 11 and growing, all of a large family. Using 'Add People" in organizer worked well up till I reached 9,000 pix. I get the msg that all faces have been tagged. I've been scanning about 300 pix from our old albums and always try to add people after each group. I am not even getting the "Is this a person" message. I can go to each batch and manually answer "Who is this? Database size problem??
main picture - group of people (no room at either end to insert anyone)
2nd picture - 2 people standing together
Best place is to put them at the back of the group. But how do I do this? I am new to gimp and think I have to play with layers, but don't know how to.
I have just upgraded from PSE 9 to PSE 11 and have imported some pictures that I have tagged in another program. Importing tags for everything other than people works fine (already used tags are recognized and reused). But importing tags for people proved to be a problem. They did not merge automatically with my previous people tags in PSE. My imported people tags ar now placed under "Imported Keyword Tags" in the "Media" workspace. How do I merge or move them to the "People" work space where the people tags for PSE 11 is placed?
I also wonder why people and other tags are put in different places. Is it possible to view all keyword tags in one list/place?
I have downloaded an eps file, which I need to cut. I use a graphtec ce5000-60 cutter, and a plugin called cutting master 2 in order to use coreldraw.
when i select application launcher and choose cut / plot, it opens cutting master. when i do this, it only shows the 2 outer lines of the logo i need to cut. I have attached a screenshot so you can see exactly what I mean. I have tried lots of things to recitfy this, but as a complete beginner with this software, I really dont have a clue.
Is there a way to cut a solid into two pieces using a non-planar cutting plane? I have been tasked with calculating the volume of concrete damage in a chute block. I have a sketch of the damage on the chute block. I created the chute block as a solid and then drew the damaged area extents using plines. This created non-planar plines. Is there a way to get this to work that will allow me to see the volume of the concrete damage? I need an easy way to do this, there are 50 chute blocks all the same size but with varying degrees of damage
I normally use Unsharp Mask, Amount: 100 / Radius: .5 / Threshold: 0 -- followed by Fade with Luminosity Mode. Recently I've started experimenting with the Hi Pass Filter. There seems to be many different tutorials on sharpening, each one's method slightly different. I'd be interested in other user's favorite methods and why.
What are the differences, preferences, etc. of saving files (jpgs) with these various methods? The baseline "standard" gives the largest file. Is this preferred?
Is there something to look at to learn all the properties for CorelDraw object more than just color and shape and the like.
Is there a trick to expose all the functions of the obejct (like a curve or oval) and it's properties?
I would like to measure and identify all points on a combined curve and I was hoping for a function to identify if a curve is at or near an X Y location.
Not all drawings present this difficulty, but the ones that do must be passed to another person to set the annotation scale. I am using Civil 3D, 2010. In these drawings, I can try to use the scale popup at the buttom of the editor window either in paper space or model. A Fatal Error is returned. To change the paper space viewport scale, I have to use the zoom XP command to keep from crashing but the annotation scale is another thing. I have not found a work around. I have tried to set the CANNOSCALE variable and I have tried to set it through a lisp script. The drawing does not Error out by setting this variable, but does not actually change the properties of the viewport either. My default setting for ANNOAUTOSCALE is -4 for what it is worth.
best way possible to present drawings in a poroduct to the end-user/manufacturer.
all part and assembly .idw's are printed and signed. then scanned and put into one pdf we call technical file. in the pdf, we use bookmarks for sorting into four main categories: purchased, manufacturing, assembly, and fitting kits. in addition we have other things, lik einstalation manual. the minus of this is that, when you are viewing one part, you cannot tell what assembly it is to be included in. in production area, they have small stations with ability to read these pdf's.
I've been given a drawing to edit and the creator has long but left the company. I need to explode the block in order to carry out the necessary editing however I cannot explode the block as it is an MInsert Block. I've searched the forums but I haven't found anything relevant. I've gone through the list of blocks present in the drawing to check that the "allow exploding block" tab is checked however there is no block for the whole drawing.
Is there anyway to explode the block and if so how would this be done? These are the blocks properties:
Select objects:
BLOCK REFERENCE Layer: "0" Space: Model space Handle = 57a34 Block Name: "*U243" at point, X=-4237700.3549 Y=-1887128.2335 Z= 0.0000 X scale factor: 1.0000 Y scale factor: 1.0000 rotation angle: 0 Z scale factor: 1.0000 Scale uniformly: No Allow exploding: Yes
And yes I can realize that allow exploding is set to yes but exploding block to attributes does not work.
I'm wondering how you would construct the altitudes of any triangle,so that you may find its orthocenter.I'm currently constructing three circles to find an altitude, based on this.
I was wondering if there is a way for me to setup Autocad so that instead of putting in S 88d20'12" W I could put in something like S88.20.12W so that I don't have to mess with apostrophes or "d." Also, can i do something similar with distance settings? Where instead of saying 5'-6 1/2" I can say 5.6.1/2. I know I could convert the measurements into decimals, but that would waste the time I would be saving with a faster input method.
Have you developed a method or set of rules that has made working with large data sets / drawing files an enjoyable process? When working with an extremely large area, Map 3D tends to chug or lock up to the point where now I'm trying to rethink the "Proper" map setup and get opinions on your AutoCAD Map 3D - Mapping Best Practices.
I'm basically looking for comments, recommendations, and/or best practices when defining maps. If you have ever worked with an extremely large dataset or set of shape files and need to import the entities and the query from a drawing file (or maybe even multiple drawings), insert text, insert blocks with attributes. You'll know that this process can be time consuming when working with large datasets. Most staff that work with large data sets are moving to ArcGIS, which makes sense, but I'd rather do all my mapping / GIS with Map 3D.
So maybe setting up multiple drawings with each Layer in a separate drawing makes sense. (30 drawings in a central folder). The Task Pane option is not my preference. I'd prefer all drawings files to be setup with attribute data in-place and stored in a central folder. From there I will proceed with the setup of an extensive Query setup that will generate various maps by altering properties and inserting text from various object data. Essentially loading a saved query that can be ran with updated data to regenerate the labels in some instances.
I am placing a lot of suface slope labels in my drawing (as in hundreds). The default settings force you to choose a surface, and then to place it by selecting 1-point /or/ 2 points. The CAD default is the 1-point. Is there a way to change this default to the 2-point so I dont have to change it everytime?
I'm interested in what generalized method you would use to create a circumcircle for any type of triangle; the first thing that comes to mind is: how would you find the circumcenter?
Right now I am constructing two perpendicular bisectors using this method:
• Select the triangle. • Menu) Object → Path → Add Anchor Points • Lock that layer and create a new one. • Draw a line from one of the added anchor points to a corner anchor point. • With the rotate tool: Alt+click on the added anchor point and rotate the line 90 degrees. • Then repeat all of that to make another side's perpendicular bisector.
The problem I have is I cannot change the brush to pure black; it's only dark gray and normal methods of changing the color aren't working.I went to Brushes, selected one of the Artistic_Ink brushes. (And drew a design)
I tried double clicking on it in the Brushes palette and in the "Art Brush Options" the colorization was already set to Tints. I tried all the other options but the color of the artistic brush is still dark gray; not black.
What else can I do to change the brush to pure black?
