I'm trying to get a better understanding of luminosity masks. Where can I find out just what operations Photoshop is performing when I control click on the rgb composite channel to make a selection (which I then save as an alpha channel)?
My assumption is that the brightest half of the image pixels are included in the selection and the rest are consigned to black. Is that even in the ballpark?
I've been putting together some tutorials for photographic retouching in GIMP, and have recently completed what I think might be useful to other GIMPers to know about: Luminosity Masks.
The basic premise is to use masks based on the luminosity of an image to restrict layer modifications to certain tonal values (only adjust light tones, or dark tones, or mid tones for instance).
Many people point to the Luminosity Masks tutorial by Tony Kuyper, so I put this together to show the same workflow for GIMP (there's also a short tutorial on using the masks for doing split toning in images).
when trying to use luminosity selection keyboard shortcut and it dosent work . On pc i should be: ctrl alt ~ but nothing happens - no marching ants. Mine ~ key is positioned to the right on my keyboard just beside the return buttom. Could it be that im using the wrong key here or.... thanks for any surgestion. (Maybe there is another way to make the luminosity selection if it is my keyboard short cut that dosent work.)
I make layer mask which is a bit fuzzy, so it merges picture from both layers in some parts. Then I want to save it in order to use it later somewhere, so I convert the mask into a selection. But the selection does not hold the fuzziness of original mask, so when I use it as a mask somewhere else, it varies from original.
I attached the psd file with example what I mean, I have saved mask of the Layer 1 as selection, loaded into Layer 2, created mask, but it is not the same, when I switch on and off visibility of the Layer 2 the picture changes.
Is there a way to make the selection to hold all the information about the mask including fuzziness exactly ?
I set up some selection sets thinking they would come in handy later on when I am painting. I thought I would be able to use them to paint my layer masks, but I cant figure out a way of using the selection to limit where I am painting inside the mask. I thought convert to a freeze but it seems paint layers ignore frozen areas. Is it possible, or is it a case of saving selections for sculpt and not for paitning?
I am having trouble with using my layer masks. I can use the masks that are hidden (shown with black screen) and apply them with the white brush, but I cant get white or shown masks to be taken off with the black brush. Sometimes, not always I have trouble adjusting the opacity of white masks. I was playing around with actions I downloaded and after applying three actions to a photo, elements froze on me. I read about trashing preferences, I dont know what that does or means but I tried to hit cntrol alt shift when photoshop was opening and nothing happened. When it first opens it shows I can install the new inspiration browser ( i dont know what that is either) thinking it was a required update I tried to update and it gave me an error message, something about the installer has been mis-configured.
We all know the invert function of Photoshop, easy and nice (well nor always but will fix this) to invert all colors.... The downside is than this trick will also invert luminosity... Light area become dark and dark area become light, this can ruin an image!
If you wish to invert an image and keep lighting intact the trick is really simple!
1) Open an image to be inverted 2) Duplicate you background layer (or the image layer), this layer will be used as a luminosity mask. 3) Select your original layer 4) Invert you original layer 5 (Optional) Link and Merge these layers
Done!
Trick : If you invert the luminosity(the copy of the original) rather the than original layer, you will inver the lighting of the image... Its also pretty cool!
I have always used the shortcut Ctrl+Alt+~ to get luminosity selection. It always worked in Photoshop CS3 and still does on my computer, but when I try it in CS4 nothing happens and it doesn't work. Do I have a preference or setting wrong?
1. Duplicate the image which is in RGB mode 2. Change the mode of the duplicated image to LAB color mode 3. Select "lightness" channel in the duplicated image 4. Move it into the RGB image as alpha channel 5. Copy this channel and invert the copied channel 6. Create two HSL adjustments with these two channels used as masks 7. Turn off completely the saturation sliders in the HSL adjustments for desaturating the image
Now, I can not get completely desaturated image after these steps..Is there a leakage between my luminosity masks?
I am trying to calibrate my screen using gretagmacbeth eye one. Everything works o.k. apart from my colour temprature and luminosoity. The colour temprature is way down approx 10% and so is the luminosit, it is no where near the rcommnded levels. To the extents I have now got a red tint on my screen due to the colour temprature.
So how can i overcome this, can i buy a special lightbulb or kit for the room i work? Or what do I do?
In the histogram palette menu there are red, green and blue histograms to give the saturation of those colors, and a luminosity histogram to give the overall ( greyscale) brightness. There is also an RGB option, presumably to give a composite version of the red, green and blue saturation.
In Levels, however we have the same thing, except there is no luminosity option, only RGB. But RGB in this case cannot be a composite of the three color channels, as we use it to adjust brightness and contrast; in other words it is presumably the same as Luminosity in the histogram palette. Despite this, when I do adjustments to an image the RGB histogram in Levels looks identical to the RGB histogram in the histogram palette. I'm using PS 3 Extended.
Colorizing a photo can be fairly simple using Adjustment layers and Hue/Saturation, what I've never been able to do though, was convert black to white within a photo. The other way around, white to black, is fairly easy to pull with decent and satisfactory results. Black to white on the other hand, seems to give a lot of trouble in maintaining proper and believable luminosity. If I have a black plastic object, for example, that I'm attempting to turn white... through all random experimentation I have done the object either becomes another 'material'... ie. metallic, or the object becomes too washed out (loses detail) to even make the eye believe the change is real and the material is still the original. I do know, though, that people are capable of creating the illusion of all sorts of material and surface through photoshop. So, if someone has an idea on how to 'colorize' and image while maintaining the original and proper reflection of light on the surface of the object,
Attempting to lighten plastic center plate using levels, loses correct material luminosity and becomes metallic
Attempting to lighten plastic center plate, using Lightness/Saturation, loses vast amount of surface detail, becomes 'flat' and washed out
I'm currently recording the median luminosity and standard deviation of luminosity values in various photographs. This has been an ongoing project so I've been working on it for probably the last 4 months. Today I resumed my work and had to go back and check a previous photo that I had already recorded luminosity values for and noticed that the luminosity values that I had originally recorded were different than the values I'm seeing today in the histogram.
The attached picture shows the histogram I'm using (and have been using since I started this project). It is showing a median luminosity and standard deviation of luminosity for a photo that originally gave me this median luminosity value: 75 and this standard deviation: 27.87
I accidentally changed some setting in photoshop that affected the luminosity readings, or if the luminosity values of a photo are estimated by photoshop and thus aren't always the same etc. ?
I know what the documentation says that they do, but it doesn't appear to be the truth. For example, if I take my image and overlay it with a 50% gray layer set to Luminosity mode, I would expect to see the hue and saturation of my image, with the luminosity of every pixel set to 50%, but that isn't what actually happens.
I'm on Win 7, 64 bit, and CS6 (released). I've got the Spot Healing brush active and I Shift + Right-click to bring up the Blending options. I cannot change to Luminosity. It will change in the drop down box on the tool bar however.
When I first noticed, it was Lighten that it wouldn't change to. I've rebooted the PC a couple of times and now it seems to be the Luminosity mode.
Recently I noticed the histogram in PS4 displaying color channels instead of luminosity. And all three RGB colors seem to spike off the top of the window. Is there a way to only display the luminosity histogram curve? Also, how often would be considered normal to have to re-set preferences?
I have a diamond image, which obviously has different shades in it, it actually has dark, like dark brown shades, which i want to change to lighter smth like light yellow, i tried replace color, hue/sat//light but the effect is not realistic like an actual diamond looks, it is loosing its luminosity. i even tried with magic wand tool, by selecting each darker part and changing color, but it does'nt look realistic either.
is there a way to view the RGB channels luminosity only? It seems I have to shut off two channels just to view one, and that one will be colored (red, green, or blue). How can I just view the channel in grayscale? Is this possible? Do I always have to shut two channels off to view one?
Also, I take it there are no adjustment layers in GIMP, correct?
I have a picture taken by a nasty camera : one side of the image is more luminous than the other. I need this image to be analyzed by another software that count cells, so it is very sensitive to color differences. I would like to normalize the light over the entire picture, so that the soft will effectively count cells. Is there a function in GIMP that allows to do that ?
How to create a luminosity mask in Photo paint?I know there was a macro but the site is in Russian and I'm not so good in that to read the instructions.
If I'm using the color mask and i want to know the luminosity of an image can I use it for Luminosity mask?the reason is PP does not have something as Photoshop.
I have been continually annoyed, when creating a vector mask-heavy document, with trying to select vector mask points by dragging a rectangle only to find that it instead selects a layer higher up which has a larger vector mask.
The only workaround is to manually select the points of my mask or to drag a rectangle from outside the canvas, meaning I have to zoom out or scroll to the edge - sometimes annoying if I am zoomed in quite far.
I know that the move tool can be set to automatically select a layer, depending on what part of the image is clicked, but why is there not an option to turn this off for vector editing?
If you look closely in the attached picture, there is a spot of light blue on the player's helmet, that looks like a mistake (think it should look like the grass behind it)...though it actually may be part of his helmet.
Regardless, I'd like to take it out. My idea was to select the blue with the quick selection tool, then bring that selection out to the grass, select the grass with that size/shape of selection, copy/paste and then bring the grass selection into the blue part so it looks like grass in what was the blue part.
The problem is I don't seem to be able to move the selection without taking the blue with it (so it's not an empty selection and therefore can't select a piece of the grass.)
I have Photoshop CS5 on a Mac OS 10.7.4 My problem is that when I am using curves or a slider, my selection does not stay in the same place. For example, I chose the number 8 on a slider, after I release my selection it will either go one number after or before my selected number. I have had this problem since I got my computer, December 2011, but it has only recently started to frustrated me because of having to use Photoshop a little more than I usually do.
I was trying to learn from this video about masking. It says it is CS5.
[URL]........
When I go to the layers there is no masks. When I go to the windows, no masks. A post said that it was now under properties, but when I go there, it says no properties.
So I cannot even get started. My idea was to take this image and replace the screening area with a green background, in a manner that I thought might work similar to the video. the quick mask selected the desired area well and then I could go no farther.
Running Photoshop CS. I have two jpegs one of which I need to drag a section of the photo across to the other one. This is applied as a layer but I want to dissolve the outer edges of the picture into the underlying jpeg.
I've tried feathering but it doesn't give me the shape I need, as I'm limited to circular or rectangular shape. The rubber tool doesn't really gradient the edges away enough, even on maximum softness. I think I really need to use a mask but for some reason when I press Quick Mask and colour inthe edges then press Q it just leaves a marquee round the shape but doesn't remove the edge.