I'm trying to replace a colour in PE9 (Enhance > Adjust Color > Replace Color) but it's only replacing the luminosity, not the colour.
For example, I'm trying to replace a pasty white with full red (255,0,0) and it just comes out grey....
I can't find any switches for 'color/luminosity/hue' etc
I am using CS6 and the Replace Colour Tool no longer allows me to replace multiple colours when I select the + . So when I have the panel open and I highlight the +, I used to then be able to click on several spots in my image and all of the colours that are in those spots are added to the selected colours that will be changed by using the sliders.
But now, when I use the + it has exactly the same effect as not using it - I can only choose one colour or an other, I can't add.....I want to reset this to the original way that this works.
Currently I have to open the panel, change one variation of a colour, save it, then re-open the panel and do it again (and again and again) until all the colour variations I am trying to remove are are changed. I know I also have the 'fuzziness' slider, but it does not give enough control.
I am trying to change a silver to a deep reddish brown but when I try the colour is off..Here is what I have tried.
I have used the colour replacement tool as well as the Hue tool but like I said it produces a variation of the original colour and the new colour.I have also played around with desaturation but with the same colour I end up with a pink. This was just a shot in the dark.
I know there are many posts in different forums about the colour replacement tool (believe me, I've read them all) and some people have had the same problem as me but no one yet has come up with a solution.
This tool is fantastic and allows you to change the colour of an image without affecting the texture and shadows.....SOMETIMES!! Code:
I'm planning to do some giclee prints involving scans of original watercolour paintings of botanical subjects. Because of the nature of the subject, 90% of the content of the image is actually the original art paper with nothing on it.
The 'nothing' still has a colour of course (creamy off-white), and when I print on to a similarly-coloured fine art inkjet paper I get a darker background than the original because I'm effectively finishing up with two lots of background. Is there a way I can make the background a lighter shade that doesn't involve use of one of the selection tools?
I use Photoshop CS3 and have multi layer PSD with which I am creating web graphics. The PSD is set up to export layer comps to files to produce a standardised set of graphics. The website has a standardised palette of 4 colours.
The vector and raster graphics within the PSD use these standard colours, however when we apply the colour scheme of a new client to the document, I have to go through the document and manually change all the colours.
I would like to find a way to globally and directly substitute one colour for another by effectively substituting one hex code for another, thus avoiding editing the layers one by one.
There doesn't appear to be a sampling method for the colour replacement tool in Elements 10, whilst there is one in Elements 11 & previous versions. Can I get a plugin/download to give me the option in Elements 10?
View 5 Replies View RelatedWhat replaces the magic extractor in PS Elements 12?
View 1 Replies View Relatedwhen I browse image files I find that the Photoshop/Adobe logo has been replaced by the Netscape logo. When I attach a file in email the N-scape logo is there by file name/number not Photoshop logo. Anyone know why or have this issue?
View 5 Replies View RelatedWe all know the invert function of Photoshop, easy and nice (well nor always but will fix this) to invert all colors.... The downside is than this trick will also invert luminosity... Light area become dark and dark area become light, this can ruin an image!
If you wish to invert an image and keep lighting intact the trick is really simple!
1) Open an image to be inverted
2) Duplicate you background layer (or the image layer), this layer will be used as a luminosity mask.
3) Select your original layer
4) Invert you original layer
5 (Optional) Link and Merge these layers
Done!
Trick : If you invert the luminosity(the copy of the original) rather the than original layer, you will inver the lighting of the image... Its also pretty cool!
I have always used the shortcut Ctrl+Alt+~ to get luminosity selection. It always worked in Photoshop CS3 and still does on my computer, but when I try it in CS4 nothing happens and it doesn't work. Do I have a preference or setting wrong?
View 6 Replies View Related1. Duplicate the image which is in RGB mode
2. Change the mode of the duplicated image to LAB color mode
3. Select "lightness" channel in the duplicated image
4. Move it into the RGB image as alpha channel
5. Copy this channel and invert the copied channel
6. Create two HSL adjustments with these two channels used as masks
7. Turn off completely the saturation sliders in the HSL adjustments for desaturating the image
Now, I can not get completely desaturated image after these steps..Is there a leakage between my luminosity masks?
I'm trying to get a better understanding of luminosity masks. Where can I find out just what operations Photoshop is performing when I control click on the rgb composite channel to make a selection (which I then save as an alpha channel)?
My assumption is that the brightest half of the image pixels are included in the selection and the rest are consigned to black. Is that even in the ballpark?
I am trying to calibrate my screen using gretagmacbeth eye one. Everything works o.k. apart from my colour temprature and luminosoity. The colour temprature is way down approx 10% and so is the luminosit, it is no where near the rcommnded levels. To the extents I have now got a red tint on my screen due to the colour temprature.
So how can i overcome this, can i buy a special lightbulb or kit for the room i work? Or what do I do?
Hican i do a color luminosity mask ?for example for a range of colors or for yellow? may somebody help me?
View 11 Replies View RelatedIn the histogram palette menu there are red, green and blue histograms to give the saturation of those colors, and a luminosity histogram to give the overall ( greyscale) brightness. There is also an RGB option, presumably to give a composite version of the red, green and blue saturation.
In Levels, however we have the same thing, except there is no luminosity option, only RGB. But RGB in this case cannot be a composite of the three color channels, as we use it to adjust brightness and contrast; in other words it is presumably the same as Luminosity in the histogram palette. Despite this, when I do adjustments to an image the RGB histogram in Levels looks identical to the RGB histogram in the histogram palette. I'm using PS 3 Extended.
Colorizing a photo can be fairly simple using Adjustment layers and Hue/Saturation, what I've never been able to do though, was convert black to white within a photo. The other way around, white to black, is fairly easy to pull with decent and satisfactory results. Black to white on the other hand, seems to give a lot of trouble in maintaining proper and believable luminosity. If I have a black plastic object, for example, that I'm attempting to turn white... through all random experimentation I have done the object either becomes another 'material'... ie. metallic, or the object becomes too washed out (loses detail) to even make the eye believe the change is real and the material is still the original. I do know, though, that people are capable of creating the illusion of all sorts of material and surface through photoshop. So, if someone has an idea on how to 'colorize' and image while maintaining the original and proper reflection of light on the surface of the object,
Attempting to lighten plastic center plate using levels, loses correct material luminosity and becomes metallic
Attempting to lighten plastic center plate, using Lightness/Saturation, loses vast amount of surface detail, becomes 'flat' and washed out
New action set?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm currently recording the median luminosity and standard deviation of luminosity values in various photographs. This has been an ongoing project so I've been working on it for probably the last 4 months. Today I resumed my work and had to go back and check a previous photo that I had already recorded luminosity values for and noticed that the luminosity values that I had originally recorded were different than the values I'm seeing today in the histogram.
The attached picture shows the histogram I'm using (and have been using since I started this project). It is showing a median luminosity and standard deviation of luminosity for a photo that originally gave me this median luminosity value: 75 and this standard deviation: 27.87
I accidentally changed some setting in photoshop that affected the luminosity readings, or if the luminosity values of a photo are estimated by photoshop and thus aren't always the same etc. ?
Is there a way to assign this to a shortcut key?
View 8 Replies View RelatedI know what the documentation says that they do, but it doesn't appear to be the truth. For example, if I take my image and overlay it with a 50% gray layer set to Luminosity mode, I would expect to see the hue and saturation of my image, with the luminosity of every pixel set to 50%, but that isn't what actually happens.
View 12 Replies View RelatedI'm on Win 7, 64 bit, and CS6 (released). I've got the Spot Healing brush active and I Shift + Right-click to bring up the Blending options. I cannot change to Luminosity. It will change in the drop down box on the tool bar however.
When I first noticed, it was Lighten that it wouldn't change to. I've rebooted the PC a couple of times and now it seems to be the Luminosity mode.
Recently I noticed the histogram in PS4 displaying color channels instead of luminosity. And all three RGB colors seem to spike off the top of the window. Is there a way to only display the luminosity histogram curve? Also, how often would be considered normal to have to re-set preferences?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI have a diamond image, which obviously has different shades in it, it actually has dark, like dark brown shades, which i want to change to lighter smth like light yellow, i tried replace color, hue/sat//light but the effect is not realistic like an actual diamond looks, it is loosing its luminosity. i even tried with magic wand tool, by selecting each darker part and changing color, but it does'nt look realistic either.
I m using Photoshop 7.0
when trying to use luminosity selection keyboard shortcut and it dosent work . On pc i should be: ctrl alt ~ but nothing happens - no marching ants. Mine ~ key is positioned to the right on my keyboard just beside the return buttom. Could it be that im using the wrong key here or.... thanks for any surgestion. (Maybe there is another way to make the luminosity selection if it is my keyboard short cut that dosent work.)
View 5 Replies View RelatedWhat happened to CMD Option ~, for select luminosity? I am looking to bring back detail to the Wii controller.
View 6 Replies View Relatedis there a way to view the RGB channels luminosity only? It seems I have to shut off two channels just to view one, and that one will be colored (red, green, or blue). How can I just view the channel in grayscale? Is this possible? Do I always have to shut two channels off to view one?
Also, I take it there are no adjustment layers in GIMP, correct?
I have a picture taken by a nasty camera : one side of the image is more luminous than the other. I need this image to be analyzed by another software that count cells, so it is very sensitive to color differences. I would like to normalize the light over the entire picture, so that the soft will effectively count cells. Is there a function in GIMP that allows to do that ?
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhenever I create a new colour in the colour swatches it only stays there for a couple of actions while working on a project. I understand from others that once they create a colour it stays there. Why can't I get that to happen?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI've been putting together some tutorials for photographic retouching in GIMP, and have recently completed what I think might be useful to other GIMPers to know about: Luminosity Masks.
The basic premise is to use masks based on the luminosity of an image to restrict layer modifications to certain tonal values (only adjust light tones, or dark tones, or mid tones for instance).
Many people point to the Luminosity Masks tutorial by Tony Kuyper, so I put this together to show the same workflow for GIMP (there's also a short tutorial on using the masks for doing split toning in images).
I am designing a T Shirt for my ski club.I have taken an image from a banner (made in illustrator, full colour image attached) and I want to devide into a 3 colour image for the t shirt (I am only allowed 3 colours for printing).The colours I want to use are black, white and purple. The colour of the t shirt is a light blue.I want to then put the purple logo on top of the white and black too.So I'm after a black and white grunge background with a punchy purple logo on the top.All of this should be on a tranparent or, for design purposes, light bue (same as T Shirt colour) background.
how to split a full colour image into using only 3 (4 including transparent/light blue background) exact colours.
If I were going to black and white I might convert to grey scale and then paint areas to fully white or fully black using an overlay brush I don't think this works for me for more than just black and white though.
I have attached two of my attempts where I used the colour range selection and level adjustments. Niether was really successful though (one does not use the right colours or number of colours but looks quite cool).