when trying to use luminosity selection keyboard shortcut and it dosent work . On pc i should be: ctrl alt ~ but nothing happens - no marching ants. Mine ~ key is positioned to the right on my keyboard just beside the return buttom. Could it be that im using the wrong key here or.... thanks for any surgestion. (Maybe there is another way to make the luminosity selection if it is my keyboard short cut that dosent work.)
I have always used the shortcut Ctrl+Alt+~ to get luminosity selection. It always worked in Photoshop CS3 and still does on my computer, but when I try it in CS4 nothing happens and it doesn't work. Do I have a preference or setting wrong?
I'm trying to get a better understanding of luminosity masks. Where can I find out just what operations Photoshop is performing when I control click on the rgb composite channel to make a selection (which I then save as an alpha channel)?
My assumption is that the brightest half of the image pixels are included in the selection and the rest are consigned to black. Is that even in the ballpark?
I have a photo of a bottle of wine. I want to create a layer with only the bottle on it and no background. I have be using the magnetic lasso but it does not work well. I was shown once that you could put a rectangle around the selection, hold a button down and hit a key and the selected area surrounds the object perfectly.
I believe it's a 3-key shortcut, used to select all objects on a transparent layer, especially useful if you want to select text without having to use the magic wand on all the little holes in the a's & e's etc. Something involving ctrl+a+?
Is it possible to access the Selection "Style" dropdown (Normal, Fixed Ratio, Fixed Size) through an action or a shortcut? I can't seem to find it when I try (ultimately I want to make a custom panel, with a button for the style, in Adobe Configurator).
In my Photoshop Elements 9 and Photoshop Elements 11, The shortcut key Ctrl+L for Level does not work. I press it, the Level does not show up. How may I fix it?
I have this issue in Photoshop CS6 which I don't find in the older version. I only can click from the dropdown menu as the shortcut key function "Alt+Ctrl+C" is not applicable?
The problem is that it's only loading the outline of my path as the selection. All the inner areas aren't included, and I want to chop them out as well
one of the pc at my work place seemed to be working funny, compared to the other pc.
For example, the command CO won't work, but instead i have to type CC to copy. The command MA doesn't work at all, and i don't know how to match properties.
Along the way, there are other commands that I encounter before. Basically, it jus feels funny for this PC.
Is there any way to restore every single setting without re-installing the autocad?
I have a new computer and the F1 thru F12 shortcut keys for ortho, snap, etc. do not work. Rather these ring up computer functions like speaker volumnet and screen brightness. I would like to find the button that returns the shortcut keys to ACAD mode.
Using the backslash shortcut doen not switch between view image before/after in my Dutch version of Lightroom 5. My regional settings are dutch/belgium on a Windows 7
I've selected teeth to whiten. When I choose adjustments to use curves to lighten them, the adjustment choice isn't highlighted. I've just done curves in the last thing I did with no trouble.
I think I'm losing my mind. Why won't it work????
(I use the magnetic lasso to make my selection or sometimes the magic wand)
I'm trying to use Illustrator CC (instead of CS6).. In AI CS6, pressing Command+Shift+Option+F on the keyboard, while text is active, hilights the Font Field in the Character Panel... not so in AI CC. I can open CS6 on the same file and it works... Open AI CC and no result.
As a pro, I crop all my photos.I normally use the forward arrow to move through each image, but with the crop tool the forward arrow doesn't work for advancing to the next frame.It only adjusts the crop.This is extremely frustrating for me as it slows down my workflow.
Is there a one key shortcut, within the Crop Tool -- that permits us to move forward from frame to frame?I wish the forward key worked for this within the crop tool!
Is there an easy answer or a way to format something in Lightroom -- so I can have a one-key method to advance frames within the Crop tool?
I'm sure you know you can convert a photoshop path in to a direct selection, but did you know you can convert a selection into or back into a path?
It's as simple as making a selection via a lasso tool, marquee box or magic wand, open the path window from windows and press the "make work path from selection" button on the tool bar. It is as easy as that. However the toolbar button defautls to a tolerance of 2 pixels which can give you a loose fitting path in places.
downloaded upgrade versions CS3 on septate computers. She is taking a class in Photoshop using the Adobe Classroom in a Book as a text. About a month ago she started to have problems getting selection tools and brushes etc. to work. None of those types of tools work at all now.
She has downloaded the latest upgrades. We have completely removed Photoshop from the computer, and reinstalled it twice. The computer is scanned for viruses and bots. All other applications work fine. She is now having to use my computer to complete her class work.
Is there a trick to getting the new Color Range selection function to work on a retina Mac Book Pro? I am quite familiar with the color range selection in the previous version of Photoshop, and used it regularly. I've decided to try as simply as possible by using a flat image (no layers), and trying to select colors. I've increased the contrast in the image to make dark and lights much easier to pull out.
I've explored setting the sample size to point-sample up to 3x3, and 5x5. I've also set the resolution of my display to 2880 x 1800 (to reduce the possibility of anti-aliasing problems). It will not make any selection though, using the eye-dropper sample. Using other options will work, such as Highlights, Shadows, Skin Tones, etc., but it won't do anything with Sampled Colors.
We all know the invert function of Photoshop, easy and nice (well nor always but will fix this) to invert all colors.... The downside is than this trick will also invert luminosity... Light area become dark and dark area become light, this can ruin an image!
If you wish to invert an image and keep lighting intact the trick is really simple!
1) Open an image to be inverted 2) Duplicate you background layer (or the image layer), this layer will be used as a luminosity mask. 3) Select your original layer 4) Invert you original layer 5 (Optional) Link and Merge these layers
Done!
Trick : If you invert the luminosity(the copy of the original) rather the than original layer, you will inver the lighting of the image... Its also pretty cool!
1. Duplicate the image which is in RGB mode 2. Change the mode of the duplicated image to LAB color mode 3. Select "lightness" channel in the duplicated image 4. Move it into the RGB image as alpha channel 5. Copy this channel and invert the copied channel 6. Create two HSL adjustments with these two channels used as masks 7. Turn off completely the saturation sliders in the HSL adjustments for desaturating the image
Now, I can not get completely desaturated image after these steps..Is there a leakage between my luminosity masks?
I am trying to calibrate my screen using gretagmacbeth eye one. Everything works o.k. apart from my colour temprature and luminosoity. The colour temprature is way down approx 10% and so is the luminosit, it is no where near the rcommnded levels. To the extents I have now got a red tint on my screen due to the colour temprature.
So how can i overcome this, can i buy a special lightbulb or kit for the room i work? Or what do I do?
In the histogram palette menu there are red, green and blue histograms to give the saturation of those colors, and a luminosity histogram to give the overall ( greyscale) brightness. There is also an RGB option, presumably to give a composite version of the red, green and blue saturation.
In Levels, however we have the same thing, except there is no luminosity option, only RGB. But RGB in this case cannot be a composite of the three color channels, as we use it to adjust brightness and contrast; in other words it is presumably the same as Luminosity in the histogram palette. Despite this, when I do adjustments to an image the RGB histogram in Levels looks identical to the RGB histogram in the histogram palette. I'm using PS 3 Extended.
Colorizing a photo can be fairly simple using Adjustment layers and Hue/Saturation, what I've never been able to do though, was convert black to white within a photo. The other way around, white to black, is fairly easy to pull with decent and satisfactory results. Black to white on the other hand, seems to give a lot of trouble in maintaining proper and believable luminosity. If I have a black plastic object, for example, that I'm attempting to turn white... through all random experimentation I have done the object either becomes another 'material'... ie. metallic, or the object becomes too washed out (loses detail) to even make the eye believe the change is real and the material is still the original. I do know, though, that people are capable of creating the illusion of all sorts of material and surface through photoshop. So, if someone has an idea on how to 'colorize' and image while maintaining the original and proper reflection of light on the surface of the object,
Attempting to lighten plastic center plate using levels, loses correct material luminosity and becomes metallic
Attempting to lighten plastic center plate, using Lightness/Saturation, loses vast amount of surface detail, becomes 'flat' and washed out
