We all know the invert function of Photoshop, easy and nice (well nor always but will fix this) to invert all colors.... The downside is than this trick will also invert luminosity... Light area become dark and dark area become light, this can ruin an image!
If you wish to invert an image and keep lighting intact the trick is really simple!
1) Open an image to be inverted
2) Duplicate you background layer (or the image layer), this layer will be used as a luminosity mask.
3) Select your original layer
4) Invert you original layer
5 (Optional) Link and Merge these layers
Done!
Trick : If you invert the luminosity(the copy of the original) rather the than original layer, you will inver the lighting of the image... Its also pretty cool!
I have always used the shortcut Ctrl+Alt+~ to get luminosity selection. It always worked in Photoshop CS3 and still does on my computer, but when I try it in CS4 nothing happens and it doesn't work. Do I have a preference or setting wrong?
1. Duplicate the image which is in RGB mode 2. Change the mode of the duplicated image to LAB color mode 3. Select "lightness" channel in the duplicated image 4. Move it into the RGB image as alpha channel 5. Copy this channel and invert the copied channel 6. Create two HSL adjustments with these two channels used as masks 7. Turn off completely the saturation sliders in the HSL adjustments for desaturating the image
Now, I can not get completely desaturated image after these steps..Is there a leakage between my luminosity masks?
I'm trying to get a better understanding of luminosity masks. Where can I find out just what operations Photoshop is performing when I control click on the rgb composite channel to make a selection (which I then save as an alpha channel)?
My assumption is that the brightest half of the image pixels are included in the selection and the rest are consigned to black. Is that even in the ballpark?
I am trying to calibrate my screen using gretagmacbeth eye one. Everything works o.k. apart from my colour temprature and luminosoity. The colour temprature is way down approx 10% and so is the luminosit, it is no where near the rcommnded levels. To the extents I have now got a red tint on my screen due to the colour temprature.
So how can i overcome this, can i buy a special lightbulb or kit for the room i work? Or what do I do?
In the histogram palette menu there are red, green and blue histograms to give the saturation of those colors, and a luminosity histogram to give the overall ( greyscale) brightness. There is also an RGB option, presumably to give a composite version of the red, green and blue saturation.
In Levels, however we have the same thing, except there is no luminosity option, only RGB. But RGB in this case cannot be a composite of the three color channels, as we use it to adjust brightness and contrast; in other words it is presumably the same as Luminosity in the histogram palette. Despite this, when I do adjustments to an image the RGB histogram in Levels looks identical to the RGB histogram in the histogram palette. I'm using PS 3 Extended.
Colorizing a photo can be fairly simple using Adjustment layers and Hue/Saturation, what I've never been able to do though, was convert black to white within a photo. The other way around, white to black, is fairly easy to pull with decent and satisfactory results. Black to white on the other hand, seems to give a lot of trouble in maintaining proper and believable luminosity. If I have a black plastic object, for example, that I'm attempting to turn white... through all random experimentation I have done the object either becomes another 'material'... ie. metallic, or the object becomes too washed out (loses detail) to even make the eye believe the change is real and the material is still the original. I do know, though, that people are capable of creating the illusion of all sorts of material and surface through photoshop. So, if someone has an idea on how to 'colorize' and image while maintaining the original and proper reflection of light on the surface of the object,
Attempting to lighten plastic center plate using levels, loses correct material luminosity and becomes metallic
Attempting to lighten plastic center plate, using Lightness/Saturation, loses vast amount of surface detail, becomes 'flat' and washed out
I'm currently recording the median luminosity and standard deviation of luminosity values in various photographs. This has been an ongoing project so I've been working on it for probably the last 4 months. Today I resumed my work and had to go back and check a previous photo that I had already recorded luminosity values for and noticed that the luminosity values that I had originally recorded were different than the values I'm seeing today in the histogram.
The attached picture shows the histogram I'm using (and have been using since I started this project). It is showing a median luminosity and standard deviation of luminosity for a photo that originally gave me this median luminosity value: 75 and this standard deviation: 27.87
I accidentally changed some setting in photoshop that affected the luminosity readings, or if the luminosity values of a photo are estimated by photoshop and thus aren't always the same etc. ?
I know what the documentation says that they do, but it doesn't appear to be the truth. For example, if I take my image and overlay it with a 50% gray layer set to Luminosity mode, I would expect to see the hue and saturation of my image, with the luminosity of every pixel set to 50%, but that isn't what actually happens.
I'm on Win 7, 64 bit, and CS6 (released). I've got the Spot Healing brush active and I Shift + Right-click to bring up the Blending options. I cannot change to Luminosity. It will change in the drop down box on the tool bar however.
When I first noticed, it was Lighten that it wouldn't change to. I've rebooted the PC a couple of times and now it seems to be the Luminosity mode.
Recently I noticed the histogram in PS4 displaying color channels instead of luminosity. And all three RGB colors seem to spike off the top of the window. Is there a way to only display the luminosity histogram curve? Also, how often would be considered normal to have to re-set preferences?
I have a diamond image, which obviously has different shades in it, it actually has dark, like dark brown shades, which i want to change to lighter smth like light yellow, i tried replace color, hue/sat//light but the effect is not realistic like an actual diamond looks, it is loosing its luminosity. i even tried with magic wand tool, by selecting each darker part and changing color, but it does'nt look realistic either.
when trying to use luminosity selection keyboard shortcut and it dosent work . On pc i should be: ctrl alt ~ but nothing happens - no marching ants. Mine ~ key is positioned to the right on my keyboard just beside the return buttom. Could it be that im using the wrong key here or.... thanks for any surgestion. (Maybe there is another way to make the luminosity selection if it is my keyboard short cut that dosent work.)
is there a way to view the RGB channels luminosity only? It seems I have to shut off two channels just to view one, and that one will be colored (red, green, or blue). How can I just view the channel in grayscale? Is this possible? Do I always have to shut two channels off to view one?
Also, I take it there are no adjustment layers in GIMP, correct?
I have a picture taken by a nasty camera : one side of the image is more luminous than the other. I need this image to be analyzed by another software that count cells, so it is very sensitive to color differences. I would like to normalize the light over the entire picture, so that the soft will effectively count cells. Is there a function in GIMP that allows to do that ?
I've been putting together some tutorials for photographic retouching in GIMP, and have recently completed what I think might be useful to other GIMPers to know about: Luminosity Masks.
The basic premise is to use masks based on the luminosity of an image to restrict layer modifications to certain tonal values (only adjust light tones, or dark tones, or mid tones for instance).
Many people point to the Luminosity Masks tutorial by Tony Kuyper, so I put this together to show the same workflow for GIMP (there's also a short tutorial on using the masks for doing split toning in images).
How to create a luminosity mask in Photo paint?I know there was a macro but the site is in Russian and I'm not so good in that to read the instructions.
Although a long time PS veteran, (currently CS5), for some reason I just never really got into the actions. Well a few days ago I learned a technique for making pencil drawings from photos and I surprised that I actually liked the results. Since a client wanted me to do this to many images, I thought it would be foolish not to create an action for it so I did so but every time I try to run the action, about half way through, I get the following message.....The command "Invert" is not currently available.
1. Check color mode of image
2. Make sure "add mask by default is checked in the adjustment layers settings
3. Make sure "add default masks on fill layer is checked in the layers panel options
Photo of boat in ocean. I want JUST the ocean as a layer-in the layers palette I would see the original image with a 'hole' in it-the boat would be missing. But when I use a lasso tool and copy to a new layer,
I a get new layer with the exact opposite- the original image with just the boat-the ocean is missing. Is there a simple way to invert this so I get the ocean as a layer? If not, how is the lasso tool used to get the background and not the subject of the photo?
Is there a way to invert photoshop curves? Like making the opposite curve to neutralize an existing curve that I have.Actually it's simply switching all the input and output values,
If I'm using the color mask and i want to know the luminosity of an image can I use it for Luminosity mask?the reason is PP does not have something as Photoshop.
If I select a Path or Work Path from the Paths Panel,then select a Layer from the Layers Panel,then Command-click the Make New Mask button (at the bottom of the Layers Panel),I get a new Vector Mask applied to my Layer....But it's inverted. The shape of the Vector Mask is hiding that portion of the layer. In other words it's like my mask is a cookie cutter and just made a hole in my layer.
How do I create a new Vector Mask and hide everything else on that layer except the area of the mask?
I am using Master Suite cs5. I have an image that was like 90% black and 95%white. I need to reverse the color which invert can do but there are adjustments to be made before invert.
I am able to invert the colors after a contrast adjustment. ( i also tried posterize in 2 steps. However, when i do invert the letters get fatter and starts looking like it was written with a sharpie.
I know that there are pixels at the point where B&W meet and that the adjustment i am making spread them like a gradient over 3-5 pixels.
So, I was wondering what there a way to either de-thicken the text after invert? OR Is there away to make pre-invert adjustments so that it does not happen?
The invert on this image is purposely not pure B&W. Pure B&W is worse.
With Auto-Select checked, and I drag and select all - PS selects all the layers on the canvas - very good so far... Now what these layers selected - how do I INVERT the SELECTION so that I can deleate everythign that is not needed anymore?
How to invert (inverse) a selection. Here is what I did:
*Selection made via a channel *With the selection still visible, I created a hue/saturation adjustment layer. This then only changed only the the image area that was selected, as was expected. *I next chose the "inverse" command under "select"
I went back to the hue/saturation adjustment but the same part of the image as before was effected, same as prior to my "inverse" command. I DID observe that the selection had changed when I chose "inverse," but the adjustment did not effect the new "inverse" part of the image.
