I have a B&W image in my PS2 (black car, white background) but when I click on image > adjustments > replace colour, on the background for example, it just goes gray...not the nice blue I want. This worked before with other images so I'm not sure why this is happening this time.
View 6 RepliesI can not make anything in 3D. I think in CS3 it doesnt work too. But in graphic programs like MAYA and 3DS MAX i can make 3D objects and others but in Photoshop not. In Photoshop CS 4 I opened new document, with brush i wrote "Hello" and clicked on menu "3D" but there is everything disable :-/. My graphic card is "Ati Mobility Radeon XPRESS 200 series.
View 6 Replies View Relatedmy keyboard short cut for ctrl+ a doesn't work, for some reason. All the other keyboard shortcuts work, except for that one (At least i think so..). I read through numerous threads about why keyboard short cuts do not work. 1. they are cracked copies of photoshop, 2. they are using logitech keyboards.
But I'm not using a cracked copy, and I just upgraded my logitech drivers to the newest ones.. and the problem just started yesterday without any reason. But when I change my short cut from ctrl a to.. something else, say alt+ctrl+a. it works.. but I prefer the old ctrl A.
Right click open with PS7 doesnt work. Every time i select it, it opens in windows picture viewer. But i can open it in illusttrator 4 some reason.
View 2 Replies View Relatedi`m trying to create a repeated circle pattern using an action that i`ve created : (starting with a black circle on a white canvas)press recordduplicate layerpress ctrl Tmove pivot pointrotate circlepress enterstop recording when i press play, the action creates a new layer but no new circle is created.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI have a lot of jpgs and want to make an animated gif of them, but that doesnt work I ve read a tutorial somewhere and there it worked. But I just get an errormessage and the only files with that I can make an animated gif are gifs
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am using CS6 and the Replace Colour Tool no longer allows me to replace multiple colours when I select the + . So when I have the panel open and I highlight the +, I used to then be able to click on several spots in my image and all of the colours that are in those spots are added to the selected colours that will be changed by using the sliders.
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But now, when I use the + it has exactly the same effect as not using it - I can only choose one colour or an other, I can't add.....I want to reset this to the original way that this works.
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Currently I have to open the panel, change one variation of a colour, save it, then re-open the panel and do it again (and again and again) until all the colour variations I am trying to remove are are changed. I know I also have the 'fuzziness' slider, but it does not give enough control.
I've got an image of a girl in a black dress on a dark background. Which is the best way to turn the dress white/cream?
View 5 Replies View RelatedCan you delete and replace a colour in illustrator like you can in InDesign where it asks what colour in the palette you want to replace it with
View 4 Replies View RelatedA coloured, shaded object has any number of individual colours.
How can I make a simple colour change (swap) but retain all the shading (gradient?) properties?
Test file dropshadow_replace_demo.cdr contains a yellow rectangle with a black drop shadow, all in RGB,
Run Edit > Find and Replace with the options Replace Objects > Replace a colour model > Any colour model, replace with CMYK.
The rectangle will be converted to CMYK but the drop shadow remains stubbornly as RGB.
Of course there are third party replacers which are easier to use and probably work better, but the built in replacer ought to work properly on all objects that CorelDraw supports and not just some of them.
I have hundreds of images that all have the same watermark (more or less but not exactly in the same place). It can easily be removed with the paint bucket with the default settings, the watermark is light grey, the pictures (JPGs) are black and white (a scanned book). But the sheer number of images makes it a gigantic effort to do it by hand.
View 6 Replies View RelatedFor some reason colours won't work on my photoshop, they all come out gray-ish. I can't figure out why this is,
View 2 Replies View RelatedWhen using the block editor to rename an existing block to clean that instance of the block name out of the file, the block replace command from express tools does not work.
I select a block enter block editor save block as (new Name) save and exit block editor.Insert new block into the drawing.Express tab on the ribbon select Replace Block select block A to be replaced by Block B purge out instance of block A after complete. It reports 0 blocks replaced
attached is a file with 2 blocks called Drain and Drain X each have the same visibility states I want to replace Drain with Drain X to purge out Drain from my file.
it allows me to save normaly, but if i want/need to change a file type, or name and i click "save as" the save as window pops up for a brief moment then disapears.and photoshop feezes. it doesnt really crash, it just freezes and i have to go into task manger to close it.
im a digital artist so my cs3 program is really important...i need it up and running again!! any help here?
ive already tried ALT+Spacebar and then M to see if the window was juust off screen, but it didnt work. ><''
besides the program lagging ocassionaly with big file loads/saves everything works fine. its just this problem that keeps me from workng!
I have win XP + Adobe CS 3 Standard installed on my pc: when i open more than one photo at the same time with Photoshop CS3, the application immediately close.
I have two pc with the same configuration and i have the same problem. Note that i have Adobe CS2 installed + upgrade to Adobe CS 3. If i use Photoshop CS 2 i dont have trouble.
My 2 passions in life are Photography and Gaming (disclaimer: other than my wife and kids).
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I need a fast gaming GPU for, well, gaming and a pro-level card so I can use the 10-bit per channel colour depth on my monitor with Photoshop and Lightroom. (Does LR 5 even support wide gamut screens?) I'm thinking of installing both in one PC, and connecting both cards to the same monitor (using a DVI and DP connector). I could then use the monitor input selector to decide which input to view.
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The question is, if I'm using the 10-bit colour card for Photoshop/Lightroom would I get any of the benefits of the gaming card when doing things like processing RAW files, applying filters, etc?
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I can only afford a good gaming card and entry level pro card. The cards I have in mind are an nVidia GTX 780 Ti and AMD FirePro V3900
Colour correction can involve up to seven steps: setting Gray to correct color, achieving good contrast, balancing colour to remove colour casts, adjusting skin tones, saturation, sharpening and converting to CMYK.
Make sure info palette is open. Set (palette options) your first colour readout to grayscale and your second to RGB. Choose the eye dropper tool and set the sample size to 3x3.
1. Finding Gray to correct colour
Find a neutral gray in the image. K in the info palette should read 50%. If there is no gray, find an object that is somewhat neutral. Write down the numbers displayed in the RGB readout window. Add these values together and divide by 3 to get the average brightness of these values. (Equal RGB values will create a neutral gray with no colour cast.)
Image>adjust>curves
Leaving the pop-up set to RGB will only change the RGB in equal amounts. This is not the correct procedure.
Start by choosing the Red channel. Click anywhere on the curve to add a point. Click on the input number and enter the Red Value of the sampled colour. Click on the output number and ten enter the average number you calculated.
Repeat this step for the Green and Blue channels. Most of the colour cast should be removed after this step is complete.
If the image looks totally out of whack, you may have selected from a poor area. Try finding another neutral area on the image.
2. Achieving good contrast
If the image looks flat and lifeless you may need to optimize the contrast. The best way to adjust the contrast is to adjust the levels for each colour. (Adjusting the RGB slider may cause posterization effects in your image.)
Image>adjust>levels
Change the pop-up window to Red and drag the input sliders (left and right) until they touch the beginning and end of the main histogram. Ignore stray pixels and concentrate on the areas where the slope begins and ends.
Repeat this process for the Green and Blue Channels.
Your image now has a full range of contrast (0-255) for each of RG&B.
3. Colour Balance (removing colour casts)
Highlight, shadow and mid-point are three areas of an image that should usually be a shade of gray. The objective here is to make the brightest area of the image as bright as possible and the darkest as dark as possible without losing detail.
Pure white (255, 255, 255) settings will "blow-out" when the image is printed and pure black (0, 0, 0) will "plug" when printed.
To adjust for this you need to set up minimum and maximum ink limits. Click on the foreground colour to open the colour picker. Set the Saturation (S) to 0 and Brightness (B) 100 (white) and then click on the Brightness button. Move the slider down the grayscale bar until the Magenta and Yellow readouts indicate values to who are adjusting toward. (M 5%, Y 5%) The cyan value is usually higher.
When done, check the RGB values to the left. They will show you the value (they should be the same) to be used to achieve the minimum ink values in CMYK. Make note of the RGB value.
Repeat the process for the shadow areas.
Total ink limit is usually around or less then 300% (add the CMYK values). Make note of the RGB values here as well. For the midtones area, refer to the colour readout in the info palette. Add the numbers and divide by three.
Create a curves adjustment layer. Since you are attempting to balance out the colours, you need to work on the individual colour channels by adjusting them. Add an adjustment point to each curve (central location) Proceed to apply the values for the highlight, shadown and midtones by selecting the appropriate adjustment point and entering the input and output values.
For the mid-point area you will have to use the individual RGB channel adjustment.
4. Skin Tones
I'll do this later. The image now should be pretty good and this step may not be necesary.
5. Optimizing Saturation
Before adjusting the saturation, turn on the Gamut Warning.
view>gamut warning
Create another adjustment layer for Hue/Saturation. If no gray appears in your image you can increase the saturation until you start seeing small areas of gray. If you see large areas of gray (blotches), your image is over saturated. Decrease the saturation if this is the case.
After all these corrections, merge the adjustment layers with the image.
6. Sharpening the Image
Use Unsharp Mask
Filter>sharpen>unsharp mask
Adjust Radius: Radius controls how wide samples are on each side of an edge. A small radius creates a smaller halo. A general rule of thumb is to use a radius of output resolution divided by 200 (300ppi/200=1.5 radius). This is a starting points but dont vary too much from it.
Amount: Amount adjusts how intense the halos are or how much tonal differences are accentuated. Start at around 200% and work your way up or down as desired.
Threshhold: Low threshold values result in an overall sharper image. Try starting at 3-4. Anything about 10 exclude so many areas it is difficult to see any effect in the image.
7. Converting the image to CMYK
Convert the image to CMYK mode and then turn on the Gamut Warning and check to see there are no large gray blotches. The image is now ready to print.
If I have elements on separate levels and I use the colour range option to select the area, it works on all the levels, not just the level I have selected. That's not what I want! I only want it to select the colour range on that one level. The work around is to manually turn off other levels, but on a file with lots of levels, that can be tedious. Can this be avoided? Incidentally, magic wand works only on the selected level, but not colour range (or color range, if you are American).
View 15 Replies View RelatedI haven't changed any settings but everytime I press CTRL+G it just adds a group instead of layer mask!
View 6 Replies View RelatedI'm new on illustrator so I'm still messing around with it.
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The brushes seem to only do white lines whenever I select colours and try to draw with them! How do I make the brushes work properly?
I tried to burn a movie to my tv screen in VS Pro X4. i used 4:3 aspect ratio but when i took the DVD to view on my tv, i saw 4 black borders around the movie on my tv screen, the borders were on top, bottom and both the right and left side. I tried both 16:9 and 4:3 in VS x4 and both had the same results 4 black borders.
when i burned the same movie in VS 10 plus with 4:3 the movie fits the size of my tv screen.
why is it that VS pro X4 ultimate cant burn the movie to fit the size of my tv screen as it did in VS 10 Plus? what setting am I missing in setting in VS X4
i have a csv file that has 6 columns, PNEZD and a 6th column which is my notes..i type a star in the data collector after my code, make my note, and then find/replace after i export it and replace star with a column..that gives the desired 6th column in excel that my boss wants....problem is he also wants to see that next to the Full Description in Civil 3d 2012...i tried adding a Point File Format with a 6th Column, User Defined, String for type...named the column Notes...but if i go to edit the point there is no 6th column in the Tool Palette.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhenever I create a new colour in the colour swatches it only stays there for a couple of actions while working on a project. I understand from others that once they create a colour it stays there. Why can't I get that to happen?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am designing a T Shirt for my ski club.I have taken an image from a banner (made in illustrator, full colour image attached) and I want to devide into a 3 colour image for the t shirt (I am only allowed 3 colours for printing).The colours I want to use are black, white and purple. The colour of the t shirt is a light blue.I want to then put the purple logo on top of the white and black too.So I'm after a black and white grunge background with a punchy purple logo on the top.All of this should be on a tranparent or, for design purposes, light bue (same as T Shirt colour) background.
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how to split a full colour image into using only 3 (4 including transparent/light blue background) exact colours.
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If I were going to black and white I might convert to grey scale and then paint areas to fully white or fully black using an overlay brush I don't think this works for me for more than just black and white though.
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I have attached two of my attempts where I used the colour range selection and level adjustments. Niether was really successful though (one does not use the right colours or number of colours but looks quite cool).
I will like to find out the colour code for the background colour on a particular web address. Unfortunately I am new here so not allowed to post links so will say this as creatively as possible. the address is theregentlagos (with the usual prefix beginning with w and suffix beginning with c for all websites). I am referring to the colour where the menu items like logo, home, brands etc are on.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI've been asked to convert an image to 2 colour for printing. I have the image as a full colour CMYK layout (with layers), but the whole thing needs to be converted to 2 colour. I have the pantone reference numbers for the 2 colours it is to be converted to. I am familiar with the hue/saturation tool, but this just seems to convert it to one colour, and you have no fine control over the exact colour you want.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have copied some colour negatives using my digital camera. What is the best procedure for removing the orange base colour of the film prior to converting them to positives?
View 9 Replies View RelatedHow do I see the object selected change colour dynamically as I adjust the colour sliders?
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It seems the object only changes colour when I release the slider. But I want to see it dynamically change, so I can find the colour that works best without "hit or miss" - "trial and error" behaviour.
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Yes... I'm aware some of you spend hours in colour programs creating a palette to work with. Good for you.
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I'm just wanting to do it LIVE. Dynamically. In 2013. In Illustrator.
I'm just started using inventor 2013 (from 2010) & the way colours/materials are applied has completely changed so I'm learning again from scratch.
Here's my issue: A customer has sent a casting to me in Parasolid format. When I open it, all the unmachined surface are blue & look a bit garish. However, the colours of the machined faces are ok & I wish to keep them.
So, I want to chage all the surfaces that are blue - I can use the picker & select all the blue faces seperately (by holding CTRL down & select each face one be one) but this is a pain & takes ages (there are over 200 faces)
I can see & edit the blue color in the manager but how do I tell Inventor to replace all - can it be done?
I use EdHarvey's colour tint tool and it changes colour of the whole image, I'm looking for something similar but it only changes selected colour, so that the image is left with mutiple colour scheme rather than just one, any addon that can do this?
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From this example, you can see the figure on the right is in a brownish colour scheme, what tool can I use in order to make it's colour scheme blue like the figure on the left?