Photoshop :: Colour Wont' Work. All Grayed Out
Feb 2, 2009For some reason colours won't work on my photoshop, they all come out gray-ish. I can't figure out why this is,
View 2 RepliesFor some reason colours won't work on my photoshop, they all come out gray-ish. I can't figure out why this is,
View 2 RepliesCanvas size occasionally the canvas extension colour is greyed out this can happen on any file ie jpg tiff or PSD.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI am using Video Studio X6 trial and the Screen Capture feature does not work.The capture window opens but the Capture Button is grayed out along with the Sound Source button.
I am running this on an XP SP3 system with -
4 GB memory
2.66 Ghz dual core processor
Is there any information available as to what requirements my system may not have? All other programmes run OK on the computer.
I have a B&W image in my PS2 (black car, white background) but when I click on image > adjustments > replace colour, on the background for example, it just goes gray...not the nice blue I want. This worked before with other images so I'm not sure why this is happening this time.
View 6 Replies View RelatedMy 2 passions in life are Photography and Gaming (disclaimer: other than my wife and kids).
I need a fast gaming GPU for, well, gaming and a pro-level card so I can use the 10-bit per channel colour depth on my monitor with Photoshop and Lightroom. (Does LR 5 even support wide gamut screens?) I'm thinking of installing both in one PC, and connecting both cards to the same monitor (using a DVI and DP connector). I could then use the monitor input selector to decide which input to view.
The question is, if I'm using the 10-bit colour card for Photoshop/Lightroom would I get any of the benefits of the gaming card when doing things like processing RAW files, applying filters, etc?
I can only afford a good gaming card and entry level pro card. The cards I have in mind are an nVidia GTX 780 Ti and AMD FirePro V3900
Colour correction can involve up to seven steps: setting Gray to correct color, achieving good contrast, balancing colour to remove colour casts, adjusting skin tones, saturation, sharpening and converting to CMYK.
Make sure info palette is open. Set (palette options) your first colour readout to grayscale and your second to RGB. Choose the eye dropper tool and set the sample size to 3x3.
1. Finding Gray to correct colour
Find a neutral gray in the image. K in the info palette should read 50%. If there is no gray, find an object that is somewhat neutral. Write down the numbers displayed in the RGB readout window. Add these values together and divide by 3 to get the average brightness of these values. (Equal RGB values will create a neutral gray with no colour cast.)
Image>adjust>curves
Leaving the pop-up set to RGB will only change the RGB in equal amounts. This is not the correct procedure.
Start by choosing the Red channel. Click anywhere on the curve to add a point. Click on the input number and enter the Red Value of the sampled colour. Click on the output number and ten enter the average number you calculated.
Repeat this step for the Green and Blue channels. Most of the colour cast should be removed after this step is complete.
If the image looks totally out of whack, you may have selected from a poor area. Try finding another neutral area on the image.
2. Achieving good contrast
If the image looks flat and lifeless you may need to optimize the contrast. The best way to adjust the contrast is to adjust the levels for each colour. (Adjusting the RGB slider may cause posterization effects in your image.)
Image>adjust>levels
Change the pop-up window to Red and drag the input sliders (left and right) until they touch the beginning and end of the main histogram. Ignore stray pixels and concentrate on the areas where the slope begins and ends.
Repeat this process for the Green and Blue Channels.
Your image now has a full range of contrast (0-255) for each of RG&B.
3. Colour Balance (removing colour casts)
Highlight, shadow and mid-point are three areas of an image that should usually be a shade of gray. The objective here is to make the brightest area of the image as bright as possible and the darkest as dark as possible without losing detail.
Pure white (255, 255, 255) settings will "blow-out" when the image is printed and pure black (0, 0, 0) will "plug" when printed.
To adjust for this you need to set up minimum and maximum ink limits. Click on the foreground colour to open the colour picker. Set the Saturation (S) to 0 and Brightness (B) 100 (white) and then click on the Brightness button. Move the slider down the grayscale bar until the Magenta and Yellow readouts indicate values to who are adjusting toward. (M 5%, Y 5%) The cyan value is usually higher.
When done, check the RGB values to the left. They will show you the value (they should be the same) to be used to achieve the minimum ink values in CMYK. Make note of the RGB value.
Repeat the process for the shadow areas.
Total ink limit is usually around or less then 300% (add the CMYK values). Make note of the RGB values here as well. For the midtones area, refer to the colour readout in the info palette. Add the numbers and divide by three.
Create a curves adjustment layer. Since you are attempting to balance out the colours, you need to work on the individual colour channels by adjusting them. Add an adjustment point to each curve (central location) Proceed to apply the values for the highlight, shadown and midtones by selecting the appropriate adjustment point and entering the input and output values.
For the mid-point area you will have to use the individual RGB channel adjustment.
4. Skin Tones
I'll do this later. The image now should be pretty good and this step may not be necesary.
5. Optimizing Saturation
Before adjusting the saturation, turn on the Gamut Warning.
view>gamut warning
Create another adjustment layer for Hue/Saturation. If no gray appears in your image you can increase the saturation until you start seeing small areas of gray. If you see large areas of gray (blotches), your image is over saturated. Decrease the saturation if this is the case.
After all these corrections, merge the adjustment layers with the image.
6. Sharpening the Image
Use Unsharp Mask
Filter>sharpen>unsharp mask
Adjust Radius: Radius controls how wide samples are on each side of an edge. A small radius creates a smaller halo. A general rule of thumb is to use a radius of output resolution divided by 200 (300ppi/200=1.5 radius). This is a starting points but dont vary too much from it.
Amount: Amount adjusts how intense the halos are or how much tonal differences are accentuated. Start at around 200% and work your way up or down as desired.
Threshhold: Low threshold values result in an overall sharper image. Try starting at 3-4. Anything about 10 exclude so many areas it is difficult to see any effect in the image.
7. Converting the image to CMYK
Convert the image to CMYK mode and then turn on the Gamut Warning and check to see there are no large gray blotches. The image is now ready to print.
If I have elements on separate levels and I use the colour range option to select the area, it works on all the levels, not just the level I have selected. That's not what I want! I only want it to select the colour range on that one level. The work around is to manually turn off other levels, but on a file with lots of levels, that can be tedious. Can this be avoided? Incidentally, magic wand works only on the selected level, but not colour range (or color range, if you are American).
View 15 Replies View RelatedI'm new on illustrator so I'm still messing around with it.
The brushes seem to only do white lines whenever I select colours and try to draw with them! How do I make the brushes work properly?
Whenever I create a new colour in the colour swatches it only stays there for a couple of actions while working on a project. I understand from others that once they create a colour it stays there. Why can't I get that to happen?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am using CS6 and the Replace Colour Tool no longer allows me to replace multiple colours when I select the + . So when I have the panel open and I highlight the +, I used to then be able to click on several spots in my image and all of the colours that are in those spots are added to the selected colours that will be changed by using the sliders.
But now, when I use the + it has exactly the same effect as not using it - I can only choose one colour or an other, I can't add.....I want to reset this to the original way that this works.
Currently I have to open the panel, change one variation of a colour, save it, then re-open the panel and do it again (and again and again) until all the colour variations I am trying to remove are are changed. I know I also have the 'fuzziness' slider, but it does not give enough control.
I am designing a T Shirt for my ski club.I have taken an image from a banner (made in illustrator, full colour image attached) and I want to devide into a 3 colour image for the t shirt (I am only allowed 3 colours for printing).The colours I want to use are black, white and purple. The colour of the t shirt is a light blue.I want to then put the purple logo on top of the white and black too.So I'm after a black and white grunge background with a punchy purple logo on the top.All of this should be on a tranparent or, for design purposes, light bue (same as T Shirt colour) background.
how to split a full colour image into using only 3 (4 including transparent/light blue background) exact colours.
If I were going to black and white I might convert to grey scale and then paint areas to fully white or fully black using an overlay brush I don't think this works for me for more than just black and white though.
I have attached two of my attempts where I used the colour range selection and level adjustments. Niether was really successful though (one does not use the right colours or number of colours but looks quite cool).
I will like to find out the colour code for the background colour on a particular web address. Unfortunately I am new here so not allowed to post links so will say this as creatively as possible. the address is theregentlagos (with the usual prefix beginning with w and suffix beginning with c for all websites). I am referring to the colour where the menu items like logo, home, brands etc are on.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI've been asked to convert an image to 2 colour for printing. I have the image as a full colour CMYK layout (with layers), but the whole thing needs to be converted to 2 colour. I have the pantone reference numbers for the 2 colours it is to be converted to. I am familiar with the hue/saturation tool, but this just seems to convert it to one colour, and you have no fine control over the exact colour you want.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have copied some colour negatives using my digital camera. What is the best procedure for removing the orange base colour of the film prior to converting them to positives?
View 9 Replies View RelatedHow do I see the object selected change colour dynamically as I adjust the colour sliders?
It seems the object only changes colour when I release the slider. But I want to see it dynamically change, so I can find the colour that works best without "hit or miss" - "trial and error" behaviour.
Yes... I'm aware some of you spend hours in colour programs creating a palette to work with. Good for you.
I'm just wanting to do it LIVE. Dynamically. In 2013. In Illustrator.
I'm just started using inventor 2013 (from 2010) & the way colours/materials are applied has completely changed so I'm learning again from scratch.
Here's my issue: A customer has sent a casting to me in Parasolid format. When I open it, all the unmachined surface are blue & look a bit garish. However, the colours of the machined faces are ok & I wish to keep them.
So, I want to chage all the surfaces that are blue - I can use the picker & select all the blue faces seperately (by holding CTRL down & select each face one be one) but this is a pain & takes ages (there are over 200 faces)
I can see & edit the blue color in the manager but how do I tell Inventor to replace all - can it be done?
I use EdHarvey's colour tint tool and it changes colour of the whole image, I'm looking for something similar but it only changes selected colour, so that the image is left with mutiple colour scheme rather than just one, any addon that can do this?
From this example, you can see the figure on the right is in a brownish colour scheme, what tool can I use in order to make it's colour scheme blue like the figure on the left?
[gradient tool] I double-clicked the colour stop , but the colour swatch doesn't come outI hv tried a couple of times in CS 5 and also CS 6.
View 1 Replies View RelatedAdobe Colour Management Print defaults seems to be assigning RGB meta to B&W pages and incurring Colour Print charges for B&W prints.I can manually change the print colour management to Printer managed on a per print basis instead of the default adobe colour managed which "cures" the issue but I do not seem to be able to save that setting as the default.
View 1 Replies View RelatedAny method to transform all the pixel of a colour similar to X(in RGB values) to X ?
View 7 Replies View RelatedI am working on a website that has existing template images. One of these in particular has a predominate blue background colour, specifically #0a2a35 (195 81 21 [HSV], 10 42 53 [RGB], 81 21 0 79 [CMYK]). I want to transform this colour to an orange colour, #be5d27 (21 79 75 [HSV], 190 93 39 [RGB], 0 51 79 25 [CMYK]). At the same time, I want to change the lighter and darker blue accent colours of the image to become variations of the orange colour.
I have tried several things already, and one method that almost worked for me was using the "Colorize" tool to match the HSV values of the blue colour to orange colour. It almost works except the RGB values don't quite match up.
copy specific fill colour so that it can be filled in as stroke colour in other compound path. I attached 2 screen shots as below. I want to copy the blue olour to replace he red stroke.colour.
View 25 Replies View RelatedI have photographed some colour negatives in RAW. Any outline of a process as to how to convert these to positives using Lightroom v5. I have tried and failed!
View 6 Replies View RelatedWindows 7 and Gimp 2.8.2 in single window mode.
I am trying to to use Colour to Alpha by picking a specific colour from an image. But I can't get the colour picker to work.
The image has an alpha channel.
I choose Colour to Alpha, then click on the From swatch. The Colour to Alpha Colour Picker window appears. I click on the eyedropper. But when I move the eyedropper over the image, the cursor changes to the previous tool that was used. For example, if I used the zoom tool, the eyedropper changes to zoom as the cursor leaves the Colour to Alpha Colour Picker window, and zoom becomes active.
How do I pick a colour from the image?
I would like to be able to select a colour like you can in photoshop. The swatches are very limited. I would like to select it from the colour 'wheel', where you can move up and down the slider to select the value and then move over the circle to select your colour? Or where can I find a huge swatch of colours?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am experiencing a problem with the 3D tools on CS6 Extended. I have checked and my vRAM is 512mb which seemed to be the biggest source of this problem for other people, but my 3D tools are still greyed out. I have converted the working file from CYMK to RGB and the 3D tools have become available.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have Photoshop CS6 13.0.1 x64 Extended and all options under the 3D manu are grayed out. My graphic adapter is nVidia GeForce GTX 650 (it has 1024 MB memory). I have Windows 7 x64 and 8GB RAM.
In Performance settings I have checked to use the graphic processor and in Advanced settings the drawing mode either Basic, Normal or Advanced, it doesn't make a difference.
I just tried to create a 3D postcard and got this message: why the 3D doesn't work and what can be done about it?Here is a fragment of System Info regarding the display driver. The line with OpenCL Version is empty, although I have checked "Use OpenCL", could this be a problem?
Memory available to Photoshop: 6314 MB
Memory used by Photoshop: 32 %
Image tile size: 128K
Image cache levels: 4
OpenGL Drawing: Enabled.
OpenGL Drawing Mode: Advanced
OpenGL Allow Normal Mode: True.
OpenGL Allow Advanced Mode: True.
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Adobe Photoshop Version: 14.0 (14.0 20130423.r.221 2013/04/23:23:00:00) x32
Operating System: Windows 7 64-bit
Version: 6.1 Service Pack 1
System architecture: Intel CPU Family:6, Model:5, Stepping:5 with MMX, SSE Integer, SSE FP, SSE2, SSE3, SSE4.1, SSE4.2, HyperThreading
Physical processor count: 2
Logical processor count: 4
Processor speed: 2394 MHz
Built-in memory: 7863 MB
Free memory: 5568 MB
Memory available to Photoshop: 3255 MB
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why are some filters are grayed out in windows CS5?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI've loaded up some .ASL presets into Photoshop CS6. Some of them are grayed out. Why is this?
View 2 Replies View RelatedIn my Camera Raw 6.7, when using the Tone Curve, the RGB channels are grayed out and can not be switched on, probably because the Raw Defaults are missing.
View 2 Replies View Related