I'm in the process of scanning in old photos and retouching them in Photoshop. I have many books on the subject and have been using Photoshop for 2 years now..
I'm curious as to what percenage are corrections made. When you look at a photo at 25% of the size it looks one way, but when you zoom into 100% it's obviously another.
I have PSE4 and I have been playing around with it for a few months. I know the basics but I'd really like to learn more about retouching and restoring old/faded photographs.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI use an older version of Photoshop. It is able to import and read a 16 bit depth file. Though it is limited in what it can do with this bit depth, it can do the levels and curves adjustments on an image. I want to have the best quality scan to start with for photo restoration in my older Photoshop. I won't be able to directly import the file with my older Photoshop from the scanner. If I scan a photo as a 16 bit 600 ppi image, I'm afraid color information will be lost when I open it in the older Photoshop. Is there any way I can open and save such a file without losing all that good color information? I know I would need to save it in a format that supports 16 bit depth like png versus jpeg.
View 10 Replies View RelatedI'm working on a photo of a building from the late 1800s. The edge of the roof has a grainy halo around it. I'd like to extend this texture to the corner of the photo and eliminate the white background currently there.
View 3 Replies View Relatedremove the majority of marks, white areas, improve the texture of the background, and the clothing & facial features (even colour).
Also the bike wheels have grungy white marks.
I am aware of, and have experience of using the clone tool, but for me it doesnt seem to work too well here (which may be down to my skill level)
two files, a before and after of a photo that I am trying to restore.
View 9 Replies View RelatedColor print from 1972 with badly faded faces, fuzzy facial features, too. Would like the skin tones to look healthy, tried the wrming filter and got jaundice! I am a beginner with PS, need step by step instructions. You forum angels are the best!
View 10 Replies View RelatedI was hoping someone else might remember the URL of a site I'm looking for. It's a user group site for photoshop retouching and restoration. It posts photos that need work and anyone interested in trying their hand works to restore it and then reposts their version. The users then critique each poster's attempt.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have recently acquired an image from around 1850 that I am restoring and I was wondering if anyone had advice on this one issue. The photo has alot of grain to it in the dark areas of the photo. When I start bringing the photo back to life the grain is even more noticeable obviously. Does anyone know of a good technique to remove this kind of extreme grain?
View 7 Replies View RelatedWhat I have is a photo of a classroom with pupils seated and teachers standing against a large windows on one side of the room.
The photo was taken pointing towards the windows so that the pupils near the camera are perfectly exposed but the ones nearest the window are too light and faded out.
I'm sure I read a tutorial some time ago about dealing with this type of thing but I can't find it anymore.
I really don't know what to do and where to start with this photo. After playing with it for hours, its seems all i did was sharpen it and bring up lots of noise.
View 7 Replies View RelatedMy printer told me to add 5% C 5% M and 5%Y to my 100%k channels as without it I can see the black comes out a little/touch fury on things like small thin text.
Is this the same on all other colors too? Eg. say 100% Cyan color, should I add 5% M, Y and K?
I have a picture which has been edited and saved (some stuff was drawn on it). However, when checking the picture in my folder (a small tab image), I am able to see the old (original) picture. Therefore, I know that the data of the old image must still be saved somehow/somewhere. (Note: the image was NOT edited on my computer).
is there any way I can 'undo' the editing and recover my old/original picture?
So after alot of adjustments I have this black and white picture restored to colour hope you like it !
Might come up with a tutorial on how I did this in a few days :P
I had someone approach me for restoration work.. It will be a easy one for me.. What's the going rate.. I was thinking of doing on rate for the restoration and if they order their prints from me giving them a little break but if they don't does anyone know what this type of work is going for?
View 1 Replies View RelatedIn the Elements Organizer program, some time ago I did a full catalog backup followed by a couple of incremental backups. When I restored, I lost about 2/3 of the entries I had already made. What would cause this and how do I prevenr such occurance in the future?
View 1 Replies View Relatedknow this is probably somewhat of a techy question, but I'm really alarmed at how much CPU 3D rendering uses in PS CS6. My computer just howls! Can I get some tips, apart from the obvious hardware upgrades? Here are my hardware specs for my computer:
Dell Studio XPS, 12GB ram, Intel Core i7 930 2.8 Ghz, GeForce GT 630 4Gb Aside from that, PS also uses over 6GB of memory at times. This also seems extremely high to me ??
The transform controls show the width and height in percent, how do I change it to pixels?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have a restoration order I have done and everything is great except that I cannot get the background on the restoration to match the original "yellowed" color of the original photograph.
The original is an old time school class photo from the 1940s, with the pictures of each of the students in ovals on what looks to be Kodak Ektalure N paper.
Naturally it has yellowed over time and our customer would like the same yellowed look to the restorations.
I am sure there is a simple way to take a reading of some kind off of the original and use that reading in Photoshop to match the background "off white" color of the original.
Are many of you who are doing restoration work profiling your scanners?
When I open up a psd files they open at 0.13%. Really small. Today they all opened at this size. I'm using CS4 on a Mac Pro running OS 10.7.5. How do I get files to open at 100%.
View 3 Replies View RelatedMy masks are all about 50 per cent in opacity lately but I can't see any control or method of making a 100 per cent mask. See above-- The A was masked by a black brush at 100% opacity. The Properties control has opacity set to 100%
View 3 Replies View RelatedJust upgraded to PS CS6, and am having a problem manually entering a value for the magnification level in the status bar (same goes for Navigator panel).Is it supposed to automatically zoom to the amount entered without hitting enter/return? For example, if I want 25%, the box will read 2%5 and tells me my value is invalid by the time I hit return (the document will go to 2% automatically before I hit the 5). I can find nothing on this anywhere online, and the documentation mentions typing a number then having to press enter/return. Is this a feature? A glitch? Can it be disabled/fixed?
I am running a Mac and small Cintiq with an on-screen keyboard (so typing speed is slow and screen area at a premium), and the button on the pen (set to be an 'option' key) sticks on occasion.
What's happened to the key command for viewing at 100%? It has always been Option/Command/0 and that doesn't work any more with this latest update. The Menu symbol is now a lower case n (which doesn't work) and the only way to view at 100% is to go through the menu. It's slowing me up badly when editing?
View 15 Replies View RelatedI have a problem whereby my brush does not deliver the full color opacity even at 100%. It only delivers up to 50% (sort of). But I had to stroke twice to get the color that I want. This happens when Transfer option with Opacity Jitter is set to Pen Pressure. Why is this so?
However, Flow Jitter does not seem to have a problem with delivering the full color under Pen Pressure. I'm using a Wacom Intuous 4 Medium tablet.
When I'm viewing photo at zoom lower than 64% banding kicks in. At zoom higher than 63% everything smoothed out. It's giving me a hard time when I'm trying to retouch big files at lower magnification because actually I cant know until I zoom in do I'm removing something what exist or actually not!
I know it's an issue regards do displaying preview of 16bit image as 8bit image. I was checking this in many ways and it appears only in 16bit mode. I'm quite a quality maniac so I always retouch in 16bit mode and ProPhoto color space to give myself a bit more room to play with post production.
Please take a look at snaps made using windows snipping tool. All images are in ProPhoto color space but I also have tried this in RGB and it looks quite the same.
1. With banding.
16bit mode
ProPhoto color space
Zoom: 63%
1. Without banding.
16bit mode
ProPhoto color space
Zoom: 64%
I'm on windows 7 ultimate 64bit, 64GB memory, Intel I7 processor, geforec GTX680 GPU.
I want to create a top down view image of a pile of autumn leaves. Something like the attached image.
So how to have an isolated image of a single leaf, create a brush from it, set the brush dynamics to create a random scatter and size of leaves and paint this on a few separate layers to create the impression the leaves are on top of each other.
The problem is since the singe leaf is color and not a simple 100% black silhouette, the resulting brush is transparent. So this is no good for what I need.
Is there a way to create a brush (or some other technique) so I can simply move the mouse across the screen and it will paste full color / 100% opaque copies of the isolated leaf with brush dynamics to create random sized / angled copies of the leaf?
Or is the only way to achieve what I need going to involve making manual copies of the leaf which would take a long time?
I have a DVD of some old 1937 film footage. It was obviously taken as a direct transfer from degraded film stock. I have loaded it into Videostudio from the DVD (which VS has loaded as .mpg files) I have applied some sharpening and visual filters and want to export the footage. Is it best to export to DV and then use that to remake a DVD or burn the DVD direct from VS? I am assuming that trying to reburn the DVD will involve some re-encoding anyway, so either way isn't going to make a difference other than having a DV file to archive.
what I am trying to do with reference to the file conversion aspect and minimising loss of quality.
I am trying to put a word of text on an image but I need it to be on a line 90% from horizontal. How do I rotate it?
View 2 Replies View RelatedFrom what I can make of it, lossy is the option on GIF files, and therefore I am assuming that the optimisation is lossless for a JPEG at 100 percent quality and lossy when the quality is reduced?I just want to clarify that I am saving images for the web at the smallest size I can without losing too much quality.
All the images I save are 450px wide @ 75 dpi, but vary in length from 800px high to 1500px high, but have to be saved under 100kb. lossless and lossy in JPEG format in save for web?
I open a jpg image. It becomes "background" and locked in layers panel. I want to edit it so i click in layers panel, and get a box where I can call the layer a name and it changes from background to layer ( in my beginner´s terminology...)
When I click on "Ok" the image disappears, or really i think it becomes transparent, because in layer´s panel it is still visible. What has happened? I have done well all day, and suddenly this happens.
Photoshop CC
W7 64-bitGeForce GTX 570 (331.65 latest)
IntelCore i7 920 @2.67
16 GB RAM
I have a layer with semi-transparent pixels and I want to change there opacity to 100%. Or use some tool to change there opacity gradually by hand.
Is this possible at all in Adobe Photoshop CS5?