I have a picture which has been edited and saved (some stuff was drawn on it). However, when checking the picture in my folder (a small tab image), I am able to see the old (original) picture. Therefore, I know that the data of the old image must still be saved somehow/somewhere. (Note: the image was NOT edited on my computer).
is there any way I can 'undo' the editing and recover my old/original picture?
I have PSE4 and I have been playing around with it for a few months. I know the basics but I'd really like to learn more about retouching and restoring old/faded photographs.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI use an older version of Photoshop. It is able to import and read a 16 bit depth file. Though it is limited in what it can do with this bit depth, it can do the levels and curves adjustments on an image. I want to have the best quality scan to start with for photo restoration in my older Photoshop. I won't be able to directly import the file with my older Photoshop from the scanner. If I scan a photo as a 16 bit 600 ppi image, I'm afraid color information will be lost when I open it in the older Photoshop. Is there any way I can open and save such a file without losing all that good color information? I know I would need to save it in a format that supports 16 bit depth like png versus jpeg.
View 10 Replies View RelatedSo after alot of adjustments I have this black and white picture restored to colour hope you like it !
Might come up with a tutorial on how I did this in a few days :P
I'm working on a photo of a building from the late 1800s. The edge of the roof has a grainy halo around it. I'd like to extend this texture to the corner of the photo and eliminate the white background currently there.
View 3 Replies View Relatedremove the majority of marks, white areas, improve the texture of the background, and the clothing & facial features (even colour).
Also the bike wheels have grungy white marks.
I am aware of, and have experience of using the clone tool, but for me it doesnt seem to work too well here (which may be down to my skill level)
I'm in the process of scanning in old photos and retouching them in Photoshop. I have many books on the subject and have been using Photoshop for 2 years now..
I'm curious as to what percenage are corrections made. When you look at a photo at 25% of the size it looks one way, but when you zoom into 100% it's obviously another.
I had someone approach me for restoration work.. It will be a easy one for me.. What's the going rate.. I was thinking of doing on rate for the restoration and if they order their prints from me giving them a little break but if they don't does anyone know what this type of work is going for?
View 1 Replies View RelatedColor print from 1972 with badly faded faces, fuzzy facial features, too. Would like the skin tones to look healthy, tried the wrming filter and got jaundice! I am a beginner with PS, need step by step instructions. You forum angels are the best!
View 10 Replies View RelatedI was hoping someone else might remember the URL of a site I'm looking for. It's a user group site for photoshop retouching and restoration. It posts photos that need work and anyone interested in trying their hand works to restore it and then reposts their version. The users then critique each poster's attempt.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have recently acquired an image from around 1850 that I am restoring and I was wondering if anyone had advice on this one issue. The photo has alot of grain to it in the dark areas of the photo. When I start bringing the photo back to life the grain is even more noticeable obviously. Does anyone know of a good technique to remove this kind of extreme grain?
View 7 Replies View RelatedWhat I have is a photo of a classroom with pupils seated and teachers standing against a large windows on one side of the room.
The photo was taken pointing towards the windows so that the pupils near the camera are perfectly exposed but the ones nearest the window are too light and faded out.
I'm sure I read a tutorial some time ago about dealing with this type of thing but I can't find it anymore.
I really don't know what to do and where to start with this photo. After playing with it for hours, its seems all i did was sharpen it and bring up lots of noise.
View 7 Replies View RelatedIn the Elements Organizer program, some time ago I did a full catalog backup followed by a couple of incremental backups. When I restored, I lost about 2/3 of the entries I had already made. What would cause this and how do I prevenr such occurance in the future?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a restoration order I have done and everything is great except that I cannot get the background on the restoration to match the original "yellowed" color of the original photograph.
The original is an old time school class photo from the 1940s, with the pictures of each of the students in ovals on what looks to be Kodak Ektalure N paper.
Naturally it has yellowed over time and our customer would like the same yellowed look to the restorations.
I am sure there is a simple way to take a reading of some kind off of the original and use that reading in Photoshop to match the background "off white" color of the original.
Are many of you who are doing restoration work profiling your scanners?
I have a DVD of some old 1937 film footage. It was obviously taken as a direct transfer from degraded film stock. I have loaded it into Videostudio from the DVD (which VS has loaded as .mpg files) I have applied some sharpening and visual filters and want to export the footage. Is it best to export to DV and then use that to remake a DVD or burn the DVD direct from VS? I am assuming that trying to reburn the DVD will involve some re-encoding anyway, so either way isn't going to make a difference other than having a DV file to archive.
what I am trying to do with reference to the file conversion aspect and minimising loss of quality.
How to do a stream restoration design with corridor modeling. for the low flow channel pool, i will have alternate riffle and pool sections. my understanding is riffle for X feet, then pool for Y feet, then repeat, per the riffle to pool spacing requirements.
my question is regarding the left pool and right pool sections. please see attached images. for left pool, width A > width B and vice versa. A+B is the same for both left and right pools. left pool assembly has to be applied when the centerline alignment is curving outward to the left side, right pool when curving outward to the right side.
is there a way to specify in corridor modeling when an assembly is to be applied based on the direction of the centerline alignment curves?
I am currently working on a Stream Restoration project and am really struggling to find a flexible solution for modelling natural river corridors.
My Landscape Architect has provided me with a set of 2d-Polylines representing the proposed river alignment as well as some embankment lines. (Spline.jpg)
My first attempt was to create a corridor with a cross-section consisting of some generic links targeting my polylines. see attachment (Corridor.jpg). Obviously it results in a total mess. So I tried splitting the corridor in multiple sub-corridors targeting different lines as suggested by Dana Probert in her class on Stream Restoration. (Corridor1.jpg) However, given the curvature of these lines, the corridor simply never works as expected.
Question #1: is there any way to create a ‘smart subassembly’ which would prevent those bowties? Ideally I’d like it to be able to connect to subsequent vertices of the targeted line. Maybe the subassembly composer is capable of doing such magic tricks?
Since the corridor approach didn’t work I tried adding the Polylines as breaklines to a surface without any other definition. To assign some elevation data I converted them to Feature Lines. The original 2d-Polylines have been set to Fit -> Quadratic though and Civil 3d just refuses to accept them as they are. So I’d go splineedit -> convert to spline and then Flatten to convert them to Polylines back again.
This way I can convert my Polylines to Feature Lines, assign elevations in the elevation editor and add them to an empty surface. After playing around with the mid-ordinate distance and interpolation values I end up with something usable but difficult to manage (Surface feature line.jpg). The Flatten command converts my beautiful splines to a set of interconnected lines and arcs, which aren’t that easy to control. And for all this effort the resulting surface isn’t as smooth as expected (Object viewer.jpg).
Question #2: is there a way to convert splines to feature lines, or better yet – add splines as breaklines to a surface and derive their elevation from a profile?
My current solution to this problem is converting the 2d-Polylines to splines, and then back to Polylines via Splineedit. This way I get a Polyline with tons of straight but short segments. I convert them to feature lines, assign elevations and add as breaklines to the surface definition. The resulting surface is super smooth. It just isn’t easy to modify because of the amount of vertices that have to be moved to do any adjustments.
Question #3: Do you know of any better ways to approach this subject? All of the methods I’ve tried would have worked perfectly with a simple corridor. It’s the curvature that renders them useless.
How do I go about backing up the following before I install the Illustrator CS5 HTML5 Pack with Illustrator?: 15.0.1
Backup the following files: (restoration of these files are required for any future update)
<Install>Adobe Illustrator CS5Plug-insExtensions Art Style.aip
<Install>Adobe Illustrator CS5Plug-insExtensions CharParaStyles.aip
<Install>Adobe Illustrator CS5Plug-insExtensions Layers Panel.aip
<Install>Adobe Illustrator CS5Plug-insIllustrator Formats SVG File Format. aip
<Install>Adobe Illustrator CS5Support Files ContentsWindowsSVGExport.dll
I just wanted to copy the file and put them in a new folder as backup. Will this be suficient or do I have to do something entirely different to back up these files? If so, I am uncertain how I would go about it if it includes the whole file location name as indicated above.
after the einstine restoration i thought I would try another , came up with this , what do you think?
(second color restoration I have ever done :P) BEFORE <-after Tweaked it abit nails and cheeks for the extra color.
two files, a before and after of a photo that I am trying to restore.
View 9 Replies View RelatedI am trying to create some images in PS2 that have to be 3.5 to 4.0 mb. When viewing the Image Size screen, I might see an image size of 9.6 mb. However, when I save the image and run my mouse over the image in Bridge, it shows a size between 2 to 3 mb. I can't figure out why this discrepancy, or what math I need to do in order to figure out how to create the required image size other than by trial and error.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have cs5.1 and when I convert an image to cmyk and save to tiff the saved image grays-out.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm trying to combine a monotone image onto a grayscale image to use in my Indesign file. The whole job has to print two colors.
How can I easily make the diaper a PMS color and add it to the grayscale baby and still maintain two colors (PMS + K)
Right now, I'm cheating and combining the PMS diaper onto the grayscale baby in Indesign..... but I really need to have this in Photoshop so I can add shadows to make it more convincing. I tried converting the grayscale to CMYK and deleting all channels but black, didn't work as it took away all the information from the image.
See image below.
(using CS5)
The entire image is what is blinking, while the photoshop tools remain on.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI am trying to find a faster way to save my images. I shoot in raw, save raw images as jpegs after editing them in Camera Raw. I am using Photoshop CS6 on a Mac version 10.7.5. When I save, I either have to save as a copy of the exisiting image, or replace the image I'm working on. Other forums I've read said to make an action to save and create a function key to make this process faster, but my function keys aren't working, and playing the action I've created still makes a copy of the image.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have an action in which it will place an image onto an image like a watermark, when i place the image, it is not center by center so i drag it or use keyboard arrows to center and then press enter, then i saw its on the center, but when i save it, the saved image is not on the center, how was that?
you can see that the right side of border it is not centered because the left side border is thicker than right side, here is the part of the action
you can see that i move the image after i place it because its not on the center so adjusting it makes it at the center but the Translate part is not equal.
I would love to be able to export my image from 3d spherical panorama back to the complete Image. Raster image clips the image. Photoshop 3D is great for retouching the nadir (bottom) a spherical panorama image.
View 2 Replies View RelatedAll the JPEG images I have converted from cr2 are grainy. I am converting them by Image Processor.
View 1 Replies View RelatedHow to change the view in CS6 so that it is as sharp as my email program?
View 20 Replies View RelatedWhen I make a print from CS6 the image on paper is narrower than the stated dimension in the program. The height of the image is faithfully reproduced. I know that there must be a preference setting to correct this but I can't remember which one it is.
View 8 Replies View Related