CS3, Vista OS, Nikon NEF file After making image adjustment in Camera Raw the image is very dark when opened in CS3. Can correct by adjusting gamma in exposure or blending a new duplicate layer using screen.
Is there any way to avoid the extra steps or am I doing something wrong?
I was asked to take some photos (Canon 1D MK2, Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM) in a very dark church, and I had no flash (iso 1250). I shot them in RAW, and I converted them with CaptureOne. Histogram was really on the left. I did what I could leaving them a bit dark becouse in the parts that were really dark I didn't have any detail, and in some other parts a lot of noise. How do you behave in such situations? Which is the best way to fight noise? Does somebody of you have -by any chance- any tip-trik?
View 9 Replies View RelatedI am trying to create some images in PS2 that have to be 3.5 to 4.0 mb. When viewing the Image Size screen, I might see an image size of 9.6 mb. However, when I save the image and run my mouse over the image in Bridge, it shows a size between 2 to 3 mb. I can't figure out why this discrepancy, or what math I need to do in order to figure out how to create the required image size other than by trial and error.
View 1 Replies View RelatedMy Nikon D3 is set to save each image as nef and jpg (fine, large). Why is the jpg image opened in camera raw different from the same image in nef?Â
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CS5 with Windows Vista.Â
DSCF2016-By the light of the moon.jpg
This shot was actually taken in the middle of the afternoon. It's about two stops under exposed and taken on a dark drizzly day. Minimal retouching to bring out the trees on the far side of the lake.
PS: I never cease to be surprised by how much information there is in what appears to be a black blank area. At the other end, I have never found anything in saturated areas. I guess that's the nature of the light sensitive diodes in the CCD.
when I try to open an image, it's very dark.When I try to export it, in the preview window the darkness dissaperars and it looks the same as before.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI've been printing out a lot of black and white photos on photopaper on a HP Photosmart 7510e.
The printouts are very dark so I've had to boost the brightness levelsin GIMP prior to printing. The problem is that this takes extra timeand I also don't want to save these levels in the XCF file. I would say that (going by the Gamma Display Filter) the printouts are around40% of the brightness they ought to be.
While working on any project in Photoshop CS4, and frequently while switching between images, the main image workspace (on the left) goes dark, while the "Navigator" stays the correct, brighter color. Has anyone else seen this? Does anyone know of a way to fix it? The only way I have been able to reset this is by closing and opening Photoshop. But, it gets quite annoying working over several hours and having to close all of the files and reopen them multiple times. I do have OpenGL enabled. I have attached a screenshot of an example. Notice the brightness of the image on the left vs in the navigator.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhat happens to a camera raw image when it is opened in Photoshop? I have PS12 and receive raw images from our photographer and I'd like to know what type of manipulation, if any, occurs to an image as it is being read into Photoshop.
View 4 Replies View RelatedIf I have opened a RAW image in PS5.5 and it has several layers already modifying the file, can I convert the bottom layer to a smart object and then use ACR tools like de-fringing, etc.? I notice flaws in the image that would be corrected that way, and I don't want to start from scratch. I am able to make the layer a smart object. I don't know how to invoke the ACR tools.
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This image arrived from Lightroom with "no Lightroom effects" chosen at transfer, if that makes any difference.
On OSX Lion. Just installed the Creative Suite (paid subscription).
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I can launch Photoshop just fine, but when I open any image it locks indefinitely once I go to edit it. I've left it sitting for hours with no luck.
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What's happening?
how to save an image in photoshop so I can open it in Illustrator? I want to the image to open with it's outline to be the image, and not the bounding box. I know it has to do with making a selection around the image in Photoshop, and making that selection into a path, but then I'm lost..
View 7 Replies View RelatedPhotoshop gets really slow when any image, regardless of size is open. When there are no images open it runs smoothly. The interface gets really laggy, filter usage, tool selection or any other usage is really sluggish, but only with an image open, even if it's a single pixel.
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I've tried different performance settings - changing where the scatch drive is, how much memory to allocate, what the cache levels are set at, enabling/disabling openGL, etc. It makes no difference if it's after a fresh reboot or if it's been on for days. No software has changed since the upgrade. Memory test don't show any issues and no other application has this problem - Illustrator, After Effects, Maya, Mudbox, etc. are all fine.
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My system specs
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Windows 7 x64 Enterprise - Service pack 1 installed
Dual Xeon quadcore E5620 @ 2.4GHx (sixteen threads w/hyperthreading)
96 GB Ram - DDR3 - 1333 MHz / PC3-10600 - registered - ECC
Nvidia Quadro FX 3800 - with latest stable performance drivers v 295.73 (tried changing these, no affect)
Western Digital VelociRaptor 150GB 10000 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s OS Drive
X3Â Seagate Constellation 2TB 7200 RPM SAS 6Gb/s setup in a RAID 5 config
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I'd think it would be a memory issue if all apps had similar problems, or if PS had issues when just being open. It's odd that it happens only when an image is open.
I recently upgraded to a new computer and I am experiencing strange black bands blotches when opening many of my old Photoshop files or even when opening common files types (jpg/png). The problem doesn't occur with all file, some open just fine. The distortion only appears within Photoshop,
when I try to save the file for display everything looks fine as long as I don’t open the saved file in Photoshop. I feel like I’m missing something basic but I’ve used PS for years and never encountered this. All of my profile settings are exactly the same as they were on the old computer (basically default) so I don’t think there is a mismatch.Â
I cannot see my image after opening in PS6. The tab shows the file name and I can see the image in the tile when I go to "File-Open".Â
View 1 Replies View RelatedI don't know how to explain it properly, but recently if I download a picture and open it in Photoshop is appears rough and edgy. For example, I just recently downloaded this.
However, when I attempt to open it using Photoshop is appears like this. (I couldn't open the screenie in Photoshop as the quality was reduced even further)
I just started using Photoshop recently, but when I first started using Photoshop it didn't do this. It happens, I now know, with any image. Even those that were never downloaded such as the screenie I provided have a drastic decrease.
I have installed Photoshop CS4 x64 on Windows 7 x64 (RC) and when I open an image (any image file), it is not displayed in Photoshop. This is on a fresh install on a new PC. I see the tab (and the window) that photoshop displays for an image, but there is no image data in it. The only way I can see the image is if I drag the tab (converting it into a window), once I drop the window, the image data is again not visible. I am getting the same issue with Photoshop CS4 (x86). Has anyone else seen this before? I have updated my video card drivers, and I installed the drivers for my monitors (even though I don't believe in monitor drivers!).
View 8 Replies View RelatedMy friend has taken some engagement photographs and unfortunately the couple have dark hair and the background is also dark - I think you can see her problem with the photos. Somehow the background needs to be lightened and neither of us know how (we both have Photoshop 7)
View 4 Replies View RelatedUsing Adobe Photoshop CS2. I'm noticing a color difference between an image I'm working on in PS and the final image - after it has been saved.
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For example: working on a image of earth. The image on the web has very deep blues. but when I open it into PS, it looks very purple-ish and when I save it, the color is blue again.
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Sometime the difference is slight, and other times it is definitely noticeable. Is there a setting I could adjust? One that would keep the image's true color?
I'm being really thick here and don't actually know the correct term for it, but I've lost the black line that used to be around the outside of opened images in Photoshop (CS5 to be exact)
View 8 Replies View RelatedI just installed CS4, but this same issue arose with CS3 just before I installed CS4. I am running XP on a 12-inch screen Dell M1210 laptop, but often edit onto a 22-inch Viewsonic screen. The issue occurs on both screens.
When I open an image from Bridge to Camera Raw, the ACR borders fit within the screen just fine. But when I open the ACR image into Photoshop, both the right-hand side of the program border and the bottom of the image go off the screen. I thus cannot see all of the image at the bottom and cannot see all the buttons/controls on the right-hand side of the program border.
I am trying to edit some pictures that a customer of mine has taken. They are of silver utensils wrapped with beads and the way she has taken them, there is a huge shine reflection on them. There are 25 current pictures all using the same dark background.
I have fiddled with the adjustment brightness and highlights, but they come out looking gray and fake, so I removed those adjustments.
I tried using burn the bright spots and then dodge the coloured stones to bring back some luster. No matter what i am doing, it no longer is a silver utensil, it is a picture that has been poorly edited, and that simply isn't okay.
Here are some examples of the raw picture I am working with [URL] ...........
I need to reduce the glare/reflection and the stones need to be vibrant.
I have been using the Dark Strokes filter.. now suddenly when I go to apply it the image is turning orange. My foreground & Background colors are set to white and black.
View 11 Replies View RelatedI am having a huge issue with Photoshop CS5.5. The gradients and colors are acting crazy. When I bring in a image with a gradient it gets black spots all in the dark areas. Even when I use the default gradient selection this is what happens. When I bring in a picture that should have a white background it turns to black. Now apparently, when I save it out as a JPEG saves correctly without the black line or messed up gradients. So it seems to only be an issue when I am working in Photoshop, the gradients appear messed up. What is wrong with my display?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am not able to print images in Photoshop cs6 accurately using my Epson r1900 printer. This seems to have become an issue only since installing cs6. The images look dark and murky. I am using osx 10.7
View 1 Replies View RelatedI cropped my picture from the white background and added a black Background and now i got a bright border around my watchÂ
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I found a guide via google which told me how to do that but this guide is for PS not PSE and in PSE we not have layer matting (or at least i din't found it) so my question is, is there a way to delete this "borders" from my image with PSE easy way? Or i have to delete them manually ?
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Here is the Link to my Picture: [URL] ...:
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I am Using PSE9 if that matters...
If I increase exposure or ISO, I either get blury image due to long exposure or noisy sensitive photo from high ISO. And the flash just looks ugly. So I took a fairly dark shot and wants to imporve it using Paint .Net. Is there plug-in or tutorial for this? I tried to use auto-level, which is horrible looking. Recently I have seen a pretty effective HDR Simulation effect on Fantacia Painter Free on my WinPh7. The result is natrual and yet brighter. How do I make something like that. Making a fairly dark photo (not too dark) to a better brighter and still natrual looking one?
View 2 Replies View Relatedi recently started using GIMP and i made afew stencils with pretty decent success. i started making my 3rd stencil and when i go to fill the image with a dark color, it fills with dark gray instead of dark green, and the light color wont fill at all.
View 1 Replies View RelatedHow I extract a reasonably dark image from its background? Below are two identical images with white background.
But the preset color of my vistaprint business card is light blue. So I just want to paste the image from the links below onto a light blue business card if that is possible.
[URL]........
[URL]........
This is almost 100% what I want: [URL].......
but for some reason the resolution from this home made job comes out terrible at Vista Print so I have to do the card writing on their site and give them a better resolution image which the one in the first two links is.
I am trying to open Lightroom 4 from my desktop and it keeps giving me this message:The Lightroom catalog named "Lightroom 4 Catalog" cannot be opened because another application already has it opened.
View 1 Replies View RelatedHere is the image I am working with.
I want to change the color to hex #00aced (0, 172, 237). I tried the colorfy, but the image comes out purple. Another way that has worked for me in the past, with white images, is by clicking on the channel dialog and dragging the red down. Clicking on the eye, next delete the original image and than add a new foreground color based on what color I selected from the palette. Of course this isn't working either since the image is so dark.
Now in channel mixer it could work if the RGB would go higher than 200, but since my blue is 237 this is where I am stuck. It has worked with other colors, as long as the RGB is less than 200. This is by selecting each output individually, for example, starting with red and entering a value in red and leaving green and blue at 0. Next selecting Green, entering a value in green and leaving red and blue at 0, and so on... Is there some type of mathematical solution for using the channel mixer, or simple yet, is there a way of making my image more white, without losing my shadows?