When opening photos through Bridge into Photoshop CS5, all photos open in 8 bit mode. Bridge shows my photos in 16 bit Mode. How can I change the default settings in Photoshop CS5 to open into 16 bit Image Mode?
View 2 RepliesI'm importing TIFF images into a 3rd-party presentation software. Due to a problem in that software, it doesn't support 48-bit TIFFs. I opened my TIFFs in Windows Image Viewer, and they indeed are listed as 48-bit. The 3-rd party website simply said "use Photoshop to convert 48-bit TIFFs into 24-bit". How can I make 24-bit TIFFs?
View 3 Replies View RelatedWhen setting up a new project, I'm unable to change the bit depth for the project. It's set to 8-bit and ghosted. The graphics render button has a selector but when clicked it doesn't bring up the drop down.
My guess is that it has something to do with my hardware configuration (read: I need to upgrade my GPU) .
I want to make a subassembly in SAC 2013 to change the slope after require depth,see attached example.
View 5 Replies View RelatedNot able to change the units of tap drill and depth in .idw.
My part is in inch and the style too, is it a bug or a setting? I don't know...
Even if I change the style, custom of default, always the same.
How can i change properties of render element such as depth (pngio.setType #true48) or alpha through maxscript?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have about 100 manhole structures with a 0.5' sump. I want them all to 0.0'. Is there a way to change the sump on more than one structure at a time?
The only way I have found to change the sump depth is one at a time through the structure properties.
Civil 3D 2012 SP3 | Win 7 64-bit SP1
Xeon E5-1620 @ 3.60GHz, 16GB Ram | NVidia Quadro 600
I am in the process of transitioning from land desktop to Civil 3D. I design roads in steep terrain and sometimes need to have my catch (daylight) slopes change. So my question is, how do I change a daylight slope at a specified depth? For example, from the shoulder of the road I want a 3:1 fill slope to a depth of 10 feet than change to a 2:1 slope until it catches the existing surface. Can this be built into a subassembly such that if the fill is less than 10 feet it will daylight correctly at a 3:1 and if the depth is greater than 10 feet then it carries the 3:1 for 10 vertical feet and then changes to the 2:1 until it daylights?
View 9 Replies View RelatedIf I click on Open image on a 16 bit image in Raw Photoshop opens as 16 bit. But if I open it from within photoshop or from Bridge, it opens as 8 bit (when it was a 16 bit TIFF image)
View 2 Replies View Relatedi'm trying to add a degree of depth to this image and also trying to create everything that is white to be transparent. i'm kinda lost, any suggestions would be appreciated. Photoshop 7.0
View 8 Replies View RelatedI am trying to move an image onto a blank canvas.
A pop up comes up that says that I'm trying to move something with a different depth onto the canvas.
Photoshop seems to be converting pictures that I open to 8-bit from 24-bit: before the problem I think it was converting to 16-bit because Photoshop doesnt seem to support 24-bit but I cant remember.
I've been using Photoshop CS4 for about 4-5 weeks now without any problems and this just seems to have come out nowhere. The problem doesn't seem to be related to Camera Raw at all because I don't use it to import my pictures, so the "Workflow Options" don't seem to have any effect on the converting. I've also tried to delete the preferences file and that doesn't help either.
A friend of mine asked me if a could find a quality pic (intenet) of some gold bars. I searched iStockPhoto and downloaded one .eps file whitch I wasn't too happy with. Then I searched Google (large images) without a result. In desperation I searched Microsoft Office Clipart and found something (.jpg) I might be able to improve. I've used PS7 for some time but with this 8 bit image I feel "blocked" on where to start making the image looking more natural colourwise. Could someone please put me on the right track? Thank you. (I hope I've got the linking to the img. OK)
View 3 Replies View RelatedPhotoshop CS6
My workboard is off the screen and I can not grab the lower right "handle" to resize the worksurface. How can I reduce the depth of the work-board?
getting the best results when creating 3D images in Photoshop. I've been experimenting in the creation of 3D images using a 2D source using Photoshop CS5. The output is intended to be a lenticular print.
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I've achieved some good results by converting my single 2D image into multiple layers, creating 3D postcards and adjusting the parallax and focal plane. This gives a good illusion of depth in the image, but (in my experience at least) I can't get a layer to look like it's popping out of the screen.
I've also tried using a single image and creating a depth map from a greyscale image. This does work to make it look like the image pops out of the screen, but I can't get the same illusion of depth that I get in the other case without distorting the image.
What I'd like to do is combine both methods, using the depth map for the foreground layer and using parallax and focal plane settings for the background. Unfortunately I can't get this to work. If I use a semi-transparent layer as the basis for the depth map I get a light grey fringe around my target layer when I apply the greyscale mask and if I then try and set the parallax and focal plane settings as I would have in the first scenario, the layer with the depth map becomes unusable.
I took that picture earlier today. the problem is that the background looks to fake. like there no depth of field between the people and the background. i have attached another picture showing that there depth of field between the person face and the bricked background.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI use an older version of Photoshop. It is able to import and read a 16 bit depth file. Though it is limited in what it can do with this bit depth, it can do the levels and curves adjustments on an image. I want to have the best quality scan to start with for photo restoration in my older Photoshop. I won't be able to directly import the file with my older Photoshop from the scanner. If I scan a photo as a 16 bit 600 ppi image, I'm afraid color information will be lost when I open it in the older Photoshop. Is there any way I can open and save such a file without losing all that good color information? I know I would need to save it in a format that supports 16 bit depth like png versus jpeg.
View 10 Replies View Relatedhow to create "Depth of field" in photographs but the effect is not really what I want.In all of the tutorials they create two layer and blur one of them, then apply a mask and gradient it to create the effect of dof. This is not what I wan't because it does't make the scene gradually more blurry, it only creates an extremely blurry layer and applies it gradually.
So what I'm looking for is a filter or plugin that gradually increases the strength of a blur using a mask.
If I take an image that's 8 bits/channel and convert it to 16 bits/channel, Photoshop will tell me I have a 16 bits/channel image, even though it only contains 8 bits/channel of real information (I suppose the other 8 bits are all zero).
If someone gives me a 16 bits/channel image, is there any way that I check how many bits/channel of real information there are in it?
8 and 16 bits aren't the only options. For instance, I believe my Nikon CoolScan V ED film scanner is documented as providing 14 bits/channel. And, of course, some images may have fewer than 8 bits/channel.
I tried the solution given in another message to change the doc to BITMAP mode and greyscale. When I open the file to work on it, CS2 says its CMYK / 8 bit. Is the file truly 1 bit depth? Our scanning software won't allow the creation of templates on any other color depth.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have attached an image photographed recently. I wud like to get your help on this. Is there any way that i cud use photoshop and make it more metallic and the diamonds look more attractive. Or is it that i shud have cared before photograhing the object.I am attaching the image and the look and feel that i wud like to get. If any one want to have a look into the real image i can send the raw too.
View 9 Replies View Relatedi'm using photoshop cs on windows xp sp2,
i would like to know how to know an image color depth and how to change it ;(jpeg file)
I have some third-party presentation software that requires all images be 8-bit. So I used Photoshop for all photo editing and made sure my PSDs were 8-bit before exporting stills (PNGs) for my presentation. 50+ PNGs were successfully created this way, but i'm having problems with a single file. When I open the correct files in Windwos Pic/Fax View, right click, show properties, go to Summery (advanaced), all the correct files have a bit depth listed as 24.
My problematic PSD says it's in 8-bit, but the PNGs that I create from it are consistently listed as having 32 bit depth in Windows Pic/Fax View. As a test I exported other images formats (TIFFs, JPEGs, etc...) and they all came out as 32 bit depth. How do I fix this? I tried opening the PSD, saving as different name, switching to 16-bit and then back to 8-bit, still didn't work.
I just contacted Photomatix concerning this issue. They have developed the HDR plugin, which takes a series of bracketed exposures and picks the best portions of each to produce a composite of the best exposures for each area of the scene.
Now I want to find an equivalent program which accepts a sequence of images taken at varying hyperfocal distances in order to produce an image with a larger than expected depth of focus. The alternative would be simply to select the best, in-focus portions of each exposure and combine them for the desired result.
Photomatix thought that Photoshop CS4 has a capability in this regard.
In Camera Raw7.3 there is (at the bottom) a switch depth 8/16 bit. Which one should I choose when working with Raw images? I have Canon powershot s110 at the moment.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhen I create a 3D Mesh from Grayscale in Photoshop 14.1.2, the resulting depth map appears to renormalize its depth. That is, I apply a levels adjustment to lower the depth map's contrast (e.g., output levels to 0 and 12), and that has no effect on the mesh. However, if I add a bit of white to the map, the other areas of the mesh flatten with the white spot becoming the high point. If I remove the the painted bit, the map renormalizes such that its lightest value acts like white, and darkest black, even if they are not.
View 3 Replies View RelatedA Nikon raw file is shot at a bit depth of 14 but ACR lists it as 16. What's going on?
View 2 Replies View RelatedIs there a depth of field tool in Elements 7.0 like there is in the newer elements 10?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI'm designing a roll-up banner with an image of two people that has to be on the banner, so I use Photoshop for the background + the image of the people.
What is the best color depth (8/16/32 bits/channel) for this roll-up banner when working on 100% of the original size: 1260x2120 mm? Other tips and tricks for future designs concerning color depth?
Have you ever wanted to make a photo seem to have shorter depth of field? Prior to Photoshop CS6 this was no small feat to achieve digitally and end up with a pleasing and visually believable result.
Photographers know that setting the aperture wide can change the mood of a shot completely. Sometimes getting the DOF just right can make the difference between an "also ran snapshot" and an award winning photograph.
With today's smaller digital sensors - and even with big sensors if too small an aperture is available - sometimes we get an image that's exposed right, that's composed well, that's caught the moment. More of it is sharp than we'd like, and the background or foreground is simply distracting.
Enter the new Photoshop CS6 blur filters.With the Tilt-Shift variant, one can progressively blur pixels based on a definable gradient/mask, so that we get that familiar progressive front-to-back blur change.
Armed with this powerful new capability, and with the subject masking/separation facilities we've had for a couple of versions now, this becomes possible:
1. Separate subject from surroundings with a good mask - e.g., quick select, refine edge, make a new layer with just the parts you want to remain sharp showing on it. A good mask isn't difficult to make any more! Hide this layer when done.
2. Remove the subject, at least around the edges, from the background layer underneath, e.g., by selecting using the above mask, expanding the selection, and doing Content Aware Fill and/or Cloning. This is important because in the subsequent blur operation we don't want parts of the sharp subject blurring into the background. That just looks weird.
3. Use Photoshop CS6's Tilt-Shift Blur to visually shorten the DOF in the background layer, with the center point and unblurred region set to coincide with the position of the subject in the shot. Adjust the settings to taste, which isn't as much of a crap shoot any more since the blurs actually update in real time on screen.
4. Make the layer above visible, maybe do some things with the lighting (which is fairly easy, now that subject is separated from the background), and voila, a whole new feel to the photo.
Is there any technique?
What I want exactly is, starting from a big title, create a linear perspective with the vanishing point on the center of the horizon and the horizon line some cms above the title. Is there any faster way to do this without doing it by tracing the perspective lines in Freehand or Illustrator?