Is it possible to create 'Light painting' or drawing, with PDN. Or is there perhaps a plugin that allows you to do that. Here are some examples of what Light Painting is [the images are too big so I just posted links]: [URL] .....
I've been seeing 'OPT' (over processing technique) around flickr, but I still don't get how it really differs from HDR, or how to pull it off in photoshop. I'm already familiar with lucisart and photomatix (but not well versed with either), and neither seem to be able to pull it off.
I have selected black colour but when I am trying to paint it, it comes in light grey its the same with white as well. Layer has no Blending options and im starting to thing its something wrong with Photoshop.
i design and print t-shirts and use photoshop for all my designs. a customer recently asked me to print a photo of her son on a shirt..but she wanted the image to look like it was airbrushed onto the shirt. ive looked around but havent had any luck finding tutorial on the subject.
I am attempting to build a facsimilie enigma machine, I would like to know how best to create an effect so that when a key is pressed a corresponding letter appears to light up. Btw I am not looking for an animated image, I can take care of the transitions between on and off, I just need to create the two image states.
Just wondering if Gimp can paint in a ink comic book panel I draw?I wouldscan the drawing in and then paint it using gimp,is that possible and isthere a tutorial showing me jhow?
i recently got back to using my old version of Corel Draw, before i remember being able to draw for example a triangle with the "3 Point Curve Tool" and with the Paint Bucket was able to paint inside.. It was as simple as it sounds, now im trying and the bucket tool doest seem to work and when it does it paints the lines but nothing inside the shape ive drawn with the # Point Curve Tool..
I want to paint on a layer in an additive way. i.e. I set a color like (10,0,0) and if I hold down or repaint an area, it gets brighter and brighter. I want to create a texture map for a 3D model, which encodes how thick the material is based on the red channel.
But I can't seem to get this to work. I tried using (255,0,0,10) i.e. red with very low alpha and that sort of works, in that it looks right on screen, but it's not outputting as I expect/desire when I save to a flat file like PNG/JPG.
I've started to try out digital painting, and have been looking for a paint program with the basic features I want without a bunch of extra stuff to get in my way and slow the program down. I've tried a few dozen programs at least, and so far I like Paint.net the most. There is one problem that is preventing me from using it exclusively over something like the GIMP or SAI, and that is the way it handles transparent brushes.
When I go to paint with an opaque brush the end result is just hideous. I've attached an image to demonstrate what I mean, next to the type of stroke I want that I did in the GIMP.
For many years, I used the Photo House program on Corel Print House Magic v.4 as my photo editor/image generator of choice. Considering it was a freebie with a printer, I found it to be a remarkably versatile program which really opened up my creativity. I'd tried Adobe Photo Shop, which I didn't find at all user-friendly, plus a few other programs - but I kept coming back to Photo House.
Anyway... it worked fine on every Windows version from 98 onwards. But it won't work on Windows 7. It'll load... but it crashes as soon as I try to do anything. Someone suggested changing the compatibility mode - but I'm running Home Premiun, which doesn't have that option. Currently I'm using Gimp, which is okay - kind of Photo Shop Lite - but it still won't do certain things that I used to do all the time on Photo House. So I'm now thinking of going for Paint Shop Pro as v. 4's now come out (I was told to avoid v. 3 because of some glitches).
What I'd like to know is whether the program incorporates those features I used lots on Photo House and haven't found since. They are:
1) The ability to open two photographs side by side and clone an image from one of them directly onto the other one. I used to do things like have a landscape and clone a figure onto it from the other photograph, which gave a much better effect than doing cut and paste. I'm presuming this sort of thing can be done using layers (never used them before) - but doing it the way I used to do it was very easy, and working with layers looks a lot more difficult.
2) The brushes and spray gun on Photo House had a huge choice of heads/shapes to choose from, with variable degrees of opacity. One such head was a star shape, which if used with the spray gun would give a stunning effect of a spray of stars of varying size and colour. I used that a lot in some children's illustrations I do. Gimp doesn't have that feature, and nothing else I've looked at seems to have, either.
I am having a tough time blending seams on 3d objects in CS4. I create textures for 3d figures used in Poser, and Photoshop is my preferred 2d painting tool. Sometime ago, I bought CS4 pro thinking that the 3d paint feature would enhance my workflow when developing textures.
Unfortunately, I find the capabilities of CS4 to be somewhat rudimentary at best, so I am stuck using Deep Paint 3 to do blending. For example, when I try to paint over a UV seam with 3d paint on a wavefront .obj model the seam will not take paint. When I paint over the seam, a stripe is left several pixels wide - whats up with this? Do I really need to go back to the2d texture map to blend my seams/edges? This seems somewhat useless as I originally bought CS4 to improve my workflow for blending edges and maps together. Is there a workaround that will allow the paint to actually be applied to cover the edges / seams, and preferably a number of pixels beyond?
Another thing I noticed is that the blur/sharpen/smudge brushes do not work to blend edges either, in fact, when I try to smudge across an edge, I just contaminate image with stuff beyond the edge from the texture map. - if the pixel just beyond the edge is black, smudging just drags some black into my image. Is this really how this is supposed to work? Even using a normal brush seems to cause contamination too.
below is a simple example of the painting problem on a simple cylinder I loaded. The original texture map I was painting on was gray.. to demo the problem, I flooded with red, which left a gray line at the seam. then went to a green paint and and did a couple of strokes with a brush. You can see that even simple brush strokes dragged some gray into my image.
I have a Wacom Bamboo Pen and Touch on Windows 7 64-bit and it appears to work fine in Windows on the desktop and in MS Paint. I can drag a box on the desktop, scribble in paint to my heart's delight, etc.
In PSP X4 the pen works...briefly. If I keep the pen down enough to make the red light appear on the tablet (to say it has detected the pen is close) it will happily draw in freehand with the paint/airbrush. If I lift the pen high enough to go out of detection range and put it back on the pad, PSP won't paint. The mouse will paint and the pen will work with tools like Pen or Flood Fill and in other apps but freehand doesn't work.
To get freehand back, I need to click on a button, tick box or other window control on the screen with the mouse. Then I can draw freehand again until the pen goes too high.
The PSP when it goes wrong like this is strange. Hovering the pen within detection range moves the cursor as normal, but on pressing down the 'dot' (or circle depending on brush size) stays where it is without making a stroke. The cursor moves around normally otherwise without applying anything to the image.
I've tried to re-install the drivers with a new copy from the manufacturer's site and removed Windows Tablet Support but nothing works to resolve this.
Is this possible using Corel X5 suite? Photopaint? Draw?PShop has this in the extended version - looks like a very "must have" feature for model painters.
I have been using paint.net for a couple of years to resize photos for work purposes with no problems. All of a sudden two days ago the photos I resized or cropped started saving as oil paintings. I didn't click on the oil painting effect and I haven't changed anything that I am aware of. I've been going through everything I can think of and even uninstalled and reinstalled the program trying to get rid of this weird default change. I can't figure out how to change it back to normal.
I'm having some problems when using the DWG to PDF. When we open our PDF the parts of our drawings will be very light. It appears that most of the time it is only circles or arcs that are coming up lighter than the specified lineweight. When the PDF is printed everything comes out as desired, but we need good looking digital copies as well.
I found some stuff talking about using the correct CTB and some other things of that nature, but I am pretty new to autocad (and self-taught) so there are several basics things that I probably missed out on and could use some clarification on.
how do you light and blend with paint.net?also, are there any tutorials on lighting or blending? i know a little bit, but i'd like to watch a tutorial preferably using paint.net
Im having an issue with drawings plotting too light in AutoCAD 2013. Polylines with a specified thickness of 1/32" will print dark, but the rest of the drawing is almost unreadable because it is too light. "Plot with Plotstyles" is selected
I can use 2009 to print, which is also installed on my machine, and the drawing will print as intended.Using the same plot style, same settings in both.
I'm working on a drawing for a part and am getting annoying flickers from light to dark. What I am seeing happening is that everytime I pan or zoom (in or out) the drawing, the drawing lights up, and remains lit up until I move my mouse cursor over a view. When I do so, the entire drawing turns dark and remains dark until I pan/zoom the drawing again. So I am getting a constant dark - light flicker that I find very distracting.
I am only seeing this in this one drawing, however I do remember having this problem previously. In other drawings I have done, they will either be light (which I correspond to being normal) or the entire drawing will be dark. This I read has to do with the lighting in the source part file, but it never really bothered me.
Im on 2012 Iventor Pro, and Windows 7 Pro. 64bit with SP1.
I saw a very neat tutorial for spotlighting a photo in PS [URL]. I tried my darnedest to translate to PSP X4. I naturally went to the the menu bar in PSP, EFFECTS> ILLUMINATION >LIGHTS...
Basically, I can get the light everywhere but the actual area I want spotlighted.
I've got an image with two types of sand in it (light and dark), and I need to try and quantify the quantities of each for a project. Using the threshold tool seems to isolate the two (luminosity, black = 150), but I can't figure out how to tell how much of each color (white and black) there are.
I'm going through the list of plugins, but I'm not seeing anything (perhaps I don't know what to look for though).
Since I'm from Photoshop and they have lighting effects, I'm wondering if I can make a light focus on one direct object, and the surrounding objects are blackened out a bit.
I have this little mini project I want to do, It's a picture of my friend and I with Navi (Zelda) in our hands, bascially the effect I want to cast is Navi's blue light reflecting off our faces,
I have a picture which contains a color gradient from white to light blue. How can I set all white parts transparent so I will have a a color gradient from transparent to light blue?
Am a very recent purchaser of Pro X6, and was wondering the best way to separate or 'lift' the darker areas of an image from lighter areas. I have attached an image as an example. Ideally, I'd like to separate entirely everything in the image that is yellow, from everything that is not.
I have a light-colored image that I want to make a transparent background of without having any of the jagged white edges and whatnot, to make a signature and avatar and so on. I've tried the magic wand, Alpha Mask, and Alpha Space, none of which have succeeded. As I said, the image itself is very light (the attached image), so it's difficult to achieve what I'm trying to do.
I've tried to use it, but how to generate the flashing light in a separate object. This is possible because while trying I did it, but now I cannot do it and it does the flashing light in the same layer of the background of the image.