Lightroom :: 4.1 Auto Consistently Over-saturates Color
Sep 7, 2012
I completely understand the plethora of issues surrounding color management (color profiles, differences in technical specs in monitors, lighting conditions, etc ) however, I work in a color managed environment and I am consistently seeing over-saturated colors when using the "auto" feature as a starting point for processing. Oftentimes, it is near impossible to bring the colors back to a satisfactory value. I shoot a lot of nature and florals and see this consistently in the green/yellow spectrum. Downright horrific are the results sometimes.Â
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I shoot with a Nikon D700, Nikon D2X and all glass is high quality F1.4, F2.8 or F4. The cameras are set at null values for in-camera adjustments so the photos come in to Lightroom fairly flat and un-sharpened.
I'm the manager of the in-house Production and Imaging Teams. We receive art from illustrators, prep it as needed and deliver for production/printing. Every computer in the department uses the exact same color profile settings (I know because I create, maintain and install them), we're all on the same version of PS (CS 5, version 12.1), the Imaging Team calibrates their monitors every week, and yet we have one machine in the group that won't play nice with the incoming art. Â There are 4 Macs in the Imaging room. Machines 1,2 and 3 all display the illustrations exactly the same way, machine 4 displays the art as if it has been oversaturated and the contrast pushed up, as a result we are losing subtle details in the art.We can't even embed our color profiles using machine 4 since it will convert the art to what we are seeing on screen. If anyone on the other machines opens the raw import and embeds the profiles the art looks the way we expect, but open a copy from machine 4 and there is a drastic difference. Â So far we have deleted all color settings, profiles and presets and reinstalled them. No effect.Figuring we missed something, we deleted the entire Creative Suite (and all peripheral bits and pieces) then reinstalled it. No effect.The next step is throw it in the trunk, drive it up into the hills, shoot it, light it on fire and bury it in a shallow grave.
I was using these tool on a lot of images, because they often seemed to vastly improve them, making the colors pop on otherwise somewhat dull ones, and getting rid of unwanted color casts..
Later though I noticed that it is often at the cost of burning out hightlights in some areas beyond salvation.I also find shadow /highlight sometimes does this also.
Then I tried to protect some small areas with a mask before proceeding, but it seems that I can't find information on just painting a mask, but only videos with much more complex adjustment such as the Russel Crow or Lynda ones with maintaing hair detail while superimposing images, which is way beyond what I need in these cases.  If I try the wand to select and inverse I get unnatural looking divisions. Is it a matter of feathering to the right extent?Â
have the problem of JPG images appearing over-saturated when viewing them in a web browser compared to the way they look in PS CS4 or in the windows "preview" application. Here's the workflow: Work with an image in PS CS4 (Vista) with an assigned color profile of sRGB. Use the "save for web" dialog to create a JPG (with the "convert to sRGB" box checked). View the image in Windows by right-clicking and selecting "preview," and it looks fine (looks same as it does within PS). View the same image using Firefox 3 or Internet Explorer 7, and it appears oversaturated (mosty too reddish) as compared to the original. I've tried various permutations to the above (e.g., turning off "convert to sRGB") with no avail. However, if I convert to LAB color, and then save for web, the resulting image appears less saturated overall, even though it still appears more saturated as viewed in a web browser as compared to PS/Windows-preview.
Yes, I'm probably the only person on the planet that wants this, but I liked how the Auto Tone auto adjusted the Exposure slider (ONLY!) and left all the other sliders at zero in the Lightroom 4 beta. Â Is there a way to write a preset that returns that behavior?
I have photoshop cs4 and I cannot find the Auto smart fix, auto levels, and auto contrast nor the adjustment for each that I had with photoshop elements.
I like drawing in black and white, but whenever it comes to coloring the drawings, I always tend to just leave it, because it bores me, big time. Any way to "auto" color drawings? Is there some sort of action or plugin that can somehow figure out the black linework and fill in the blanks?
Sometimes when working with particularly difficult imaging I'll start with a quick auto-level or auto-color adjustment. More often than not these attempts leave little to be desired and I move on to other techniques. But once and a while (like today's subjects) I'l do an auto-color and the result is good enough to warrant inclusion in an action where I want to apply the exact same settings from that single auto-color step to a few more files.
Trouble is, unlike the levels where you can see what's been done and can save the .alv, there seems to be no equivalent for the auto-color adjustment. Can those settings be saved out?
I clicked on the auto color correction from the level because the picture was pink. I looked at the shadod clip .50 , highlight clip .50 and closed it when It changed the picture and it's better now but Can I still use the arrow from red, blue and green from the level to get better pictures?
whenever [on any photo] i apply auto levels or auto contrast or auto color from the image>adjustments tab, the entire photo will completely white out as if i had added a new white layer over my active layer (which i am not doing). however, it only does this in 'auto' changes. so if i were to manually adjust my levels or my contrast or color, the 'white-out' effect wouldn't occur.
i really need this feature. i have already uninstalled/reinstalled photoshop cs2 and that didn't seem to fix the problem.
Photoshop started crashing and I don't remember making any changes to my computer. I uninstalled and reinstalled countless times, I have held the shift, alt, cntrl key and reset preferences, I have changed printer defauts . . . I tried setting up a new user on my computer.
Why is it that on some versions of cs6 when i select the "set foreground color" (or background), the color dialog pops up with the hex number selected allowing me to quickly ctrl+c it. However, on other computers - with the exact same copy of Photoshop (cloud based and fully updated) it does *not* auto select the hex number. I've looked through the settings to see if this is a feature that needs to be turned on/off but could not find it.
I entered the following key sequence: Adjustments Panel | Levels | Alt-Click Auto | Find Dark & Light Colors | Snap Neutral Midtones | Midtones After keying in this sequence and making adjustments to my photo, I inadvertently hit one too many OKs as I was exiting and PS changed my defaults. They now read: H: 55, S:0, B: 0, R: 128, G: 128 and B: 128. How can I reset these values to their default settings?
I've been taking photos with a homemade lightbox which includes a white background and I typically have to go into photoshop to make some adjustments to get the background pure white. When I'm snapping a photo of an all white object against an all white background, it looks rather nasty if you use the auto color tool.
So from my understanding auto color uses the lightest white and the darkest black and the reason the white/white scenerio doesn't work it because of a lack of black. So to combat this I've been creating a new layer and adding a little black with the rectangular tool and filling it with black. Now, I'd like to be able to delete this second layer once I've used the auto color feature but can't figure out how.
I want to remove color from images to prepare them for being autotraced in AI.  Is there an advantage to using Image > Mode > Grayscale vs. Image>Adjustments>desaturate vs. Image>Adjustments>hue saturation and dropping down the saturation vs.
Image>Adjustments>Threshold for this purpose?
Do these all generally do the same thing, or would one of these result in a better job of turning my image to black and white with higher contrast?
In MS Paint when i select part of image with Polygon tool, this part is auto filled with background color. In GIMP i have to use first Selection tool (Free Select) and than switch to Bucket Fill for filling selected area with color. How to make auto filling selected area with color in GIMP as it in MS Paint ?
I'd like to make it easier for our 100,000 designers to use AI to make custom products using a laser cutter. Â Current Practice Designers open our AI laser cutting design templates, add their designs using the AI settings our online pricing system can read, then upload their designs to our website for instant pricing, making and shipping. Â The Problem Designers have to manually setup AI with settings that can be read by our online pricing system. If they get these settings wrong, our system can not read their designs. So they are rejected and can not be priced or made. This happens more often that you'd imagine. Â The Solution Designers do not like design rejections. So I'd like to eradicate them by providing our designers with a version of AI that provides the following settings only: Â * Set document to RGB * Stroke weight = 0.01mm * Stroke colors = RGB 0, 0, 255 and 255, 0, 0 * Fill color = RGB 0, 0, 0 Â This will mean designers have a very limited number of AI choices, with nothing to distract them or to get wrong. Which will result in less (or zero?) design rejections. And products made faster than before. Rejoice! Â Question How do we program our AI laser cutting design templates so that when they are opened in AI, they auto set AI settings as defined above?
I've just begun learning how to use the gradient mesh and I'm wondering if there is a way to have all the points in the mesh automatically sample the color of whatever they sit over, ie the template? This seems like it would be a very usefull function. Â I'm using CS5.
I was dabbling with a 3D version of my company logo that heads my home page, and ended up in a situation where things weren't working right, so I saved the design and closed Photoshop.  Specifically, I had gotten to a point where I wanted to make part of the extruded text Bold Italic, so I pressed the Edit Source button and expected Photoshop to open the text smart object, where I could make that change. I found I could still interact with Photoshop, so I saved the design.
I would like to run some code BEFORE AutoCAD opens a drawing. It's a simple validation routine. Ideally speaking the sequence would run as follows...
The user opens a drawing in some way (file dialog, windows explorer, sheet set, etc) I run my validation routine If it passes validation let AutoCAD open it / If it doesn't abort the process.
I can override the OPEN command and substitute my own, but there are a variety of ways to get a dwg open. How to stop or abort opening a drawing consistently? Even if it's not .net?
This is the second time I have reinstalled AI CS6 as last resort. It will freeze up Illustrator every time that I apply an effect like a drop-shadow, etc. 2011 MacBook Pro i7 on OS X Mountain LionCreative Cloud CS6Other tools work fineI have a couple plug-ins from Astute Graphics - however, I had the problems occur previous to the plug-ins.. I have tried restarting, using only AI and no other programs, etc.. When I reinstalled last time the probelm went away for about 4 weeks.
I've just created a map with various county boundaries. I now need to fill in the counties with various shades of gray, with no two neighboring counties sharing the same shade. I've been going about it in a sort of trial and error fashion, but I can't ever seem to get it right. Is there a way that Photoshop could possibly fill it in for me? Sort of an auto-swatch application thing?
I cleared out my cache folders from Premire Pro and Encore recently. Now when ever I'm in Photoshop I am consistently getting the spinning pinwheel on very simple edits.  Example, I open a very small JPG, and add a box to it. Just dragging the box, I will get a spinning pinwheel. I don't get it on any other applications.
A few months ago I successfully loaded Elements 11 onto my desktop. As we are going on holiday decided to load also onto my laptop. As laptop does not take discs, I decided to download as a trial and then put in serial number. It seemed to download alright but every time I have tried to instal I get the message "Installation failed to initialize".  This has happened many times and I have tried rebooting etc. At one stage they got me to download Adobe Application Manager, but it was not explained, or identified, why. Adobe Application Manager seems to be for more advanced Adobe products. I have also got Adobe Download Assistant, which seems appropriate.
I asked essentially this question on Elements Village a few days ago. No responses as yet, so I thought I'd try here...In PSE10, I have many photos scanned to TIFFs. In the Organizer, I set the dates for these photos to match when the original photo was taken (which of course is not present in the automatic metadata for the scanned image). However, when I look at the actual photo files (either with exiftool, or looking at the metadata available in Windows Explorer on my Windows 7 machine), usually my added date is not present. If it is there, I see a "Date taken" in Explorer. In exiftool, it appears in a few places, including IPTC Date Created and XMP-xmp:Create Date. However, it only appears in about 5-10% of the files. The ones where it does appear seem random to me.I have this problem after doing Write Keyword Tags and Properties Info to Photos, although I'm thinking this isn't a factor with this problem. How to get these added dates to be written reliably to the files? And why is it intermittent with PSE10?
I've been trowling through th interwebs for an answer and it appears a lot of people have come accross similar issues yet I am still to solve my little hiccup. Â I have a bunch of 3D layers sitting on a 3D plane. Everything was going swimmingly until I animated these layers in individual pre-compositions, when all the shadows disappeared. All shadow settings are set correctly, lights are in the right places, layers are separeted on Z axis and there are no effects on anything. Â I'll include some images so you get the gist:For some reason, 1 shadow is working. i've checked all the settings and nothing seems to be different between them.
Here's a shot of the stats on the working comp:
And one of a non-working comp:
Now the pre-comps are no longer interacting with the ground at all. You can see the working one in the background is hanging out half way through the floor where as the front characters should be doing the same but aren't.
And finally, for some reason, at the 7second mark, it suddenly works again!?
Now, nothing changes at the 7 second mark, the camera and lights are in exactly he same place.
I have a set of drum scans of medium format film images. The pixel dimensions of the scans vary slightly. But they all consist of images of the same frame size, with borders around the image (scanned film outside the image.) All of the scans were done at 4000 pixels per inch, at 100 percent.  For example, the pixels dimensions of one scan is 10492 x 6907, another is 10390 x 6968, and another is 10483 x 6976.  I want to crop all of them to 10200 x 6738 pixels. I want to delete the cropped pixels, and I do not want any scaling to take place. I want to preserve the original metadata (the scanner model, pixels per inch, etc.); in other words, I want to modify the files (or copies of the files), not create new files. The print size does not matter.I've tried several approaches, and none of them let me do what I want:  1.) Manually cropping each scan individually does not give me the control that I need for cropping to precise pixel dimensions.  2.) Creating a Crop Preset with the desired pixel dimensions doesn't work because using it results in scaling (I think.)  3.) Using Canvas Size doesn't work because the borders in the scans are not equal on all four sides. I need to be able to move and position the image inside the crop area.  4.) Using New, and Place… allows me to create a Canvas Size with the desired pixel dimensions and resolution, and move the placed images; they will fit without scaling. However, this results in a new file being created, and therefore the metadata is lost.
