I look at my 8.5" x 11.0" document in Gimp and it looks fine.
However, when it prints it is smaller than indicated and not centered.
It has taken me a week, but I can finally cut and paste .pdf text into a .jpeg image document.
One of the things I need to do occasionally is print an uncommon sized image. For example, I may crop part of an image as a 2x3 to fit in an odd picture frame, such as a Chrstimas ornament. However, most places I print (e.g. CVS) only print common sizes. In the past I've used Elements to create a blank new image in a common size and pasted my crop into it (which is a little tricky because you have to make sure the new image and the crop have the same resolution), but I'd like to be able to do this directly in Lightroom.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI need labels of 50mmx20mm and I resize my tiff image and then paste onto an A4 page intending to copy paste until page is full.
1.Problem is if i use the ruler it shows that my image is only about 40mm wide even though the size boxes at the top clearly say it is 50mm?!!! see image
2. Is there an automatic way to fill apage with a specified sized image eg labels as the Impostion tab maxes out at 4x4(16up)?
So, I have an A4 sized scanner and I need to scan in an A3 sized page. I can scan the page in two seperate sections, but how can I combine those two imagines using Gimp so that it's like the original?
Taking a photo has been tried, but it doesn't have the quality I want.
I am printing super high res images onto fabric. My print guy has instructed me to create my images in 1440 dpi and my fabric is 58 inches wide and about 80 yards long. I need to create ONE image so they can just print it continuously along the whoe piece of fabric. So I need to create a REALLY BIG image. They have recommended Adobe Creative Suite, but of course I want to do it with GIMP.
Just today, I installed the latest GIMP, and it doesn't seem to be letting me create even a 58x72 inch image in 1440 dpi. Is there an add on or a way that I can create huge tiff files in GIMP?.....or do I have to shell out the cash and get Creative Suite?
Several times a week I need to take a PDF (single-page doc), then convertto a page-sized PNG with quality good enough to read the text (and atransparent border), and then convert to a SWF. I have a PNG-to-SWFutility, but when I used it on the PNG saved after I opened my PDF andexported from GIMP, the end result was not good enough. A co-worker saidGIMP couldn't make a PNG (w/transparency) with enough quality. He said we'dhave to use some other software. Part of the issue was not being able toresize without losing quality before the PNG export. True or false?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI drew up a logo design a while ago and when I finally printed it, I realized I know nothing about scaling my drawing to an actual real printed size. Is there a way to know the size in inches and/or a way to see it on the page (i.e. a print preview). Also, when I do print, it's majorly fuzzy for some reason.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI usually process or edit my images for the internet using 72 dpi and using dimensions that fits my liking. I want to process some photos for printing(i.e the paper used for printing family and social photos; I believe you understand what I mean?). please, what dpi or ppi do I use on gimp? Btw,what do photographers call such a paper?
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Discovered gimp tonight however I seem to be facing the same problem. I am creating a new logo for work, I will go through the details in a moment, but each time I increase the scale size and it visually increases on screen, when it prints it is the same small size. The origins of the image are from Microsoft Office through SmartArt, I created what was needed, took a print of the screen moved into paint to open then cropped and saved it as a jpg. I then dragged it into gimp. I should also mention that within the original SmartArt (it is a circle of 4 globes) there is another jpg of our logo. I just don't understand why it is not printing the larger image on my screen.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhat are the exact A4 dimensions I need to put in Gimp in order for my page to print exactly a4.
I've tried (In Gimp) the a4 dimensions 210 x 297mm but it prints slightly smaller than those dimensions.
I am using GIMP 2.6.11 .I am using it to make DVD jackets among other things and have a template made. It's been about a year since I've done a jacket and made no notes - my bad.The Template is 10.597 inches wide X 7.292 inches high for a 7 mm spine jacket.I have it set in the Image - Print Size as well The big problem I have is trying to set the page setup setting from the File menu - It is stuck at Portrait, A4, Front tray and will not change - it resets every time. It refuses to switch to landscape or US 8.5 x 11.
The Print menu from the File menu only has 2 tabs - nothing like what is shown on the on-line manual. Only A General and Image Setting Tab.The image Setting Tab is useless as nothing I change seems to matter. the maximum size I can enter is H= 5.670" and H= 8.240" I have read section 1.6.2 Printing Photos and all the related links without finding out a thing. And nothing seems relivent. All I would like to do is make a graphic and print it out at an exact (or very close) size. I didnt think it would be so difficult.
Brand new GIMP user. I have been able to layer my pictures to create the effect I want. My problem is PRINTING. I can print but it is only printing half of the picture. Trying to print 4x6. If I flip the setup on my printer to landscape it only shows the bottom of the picture and it is not centered, the right size, and is on the top middle of my 4x6 photo paper. If I leave at portrait, it only hows the right side of the picture and, again, is the worng size and on the left side of the photo paper. Obviously I am missing something very basic?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI've created my business card using gimp a few times. I usually us Vista Print to print it. The picture resolution is at 300 but when I get the printed image it has a little blur around the wording (that's the best way I can describe it). It's not a clear print. What do I need to do to have a more clear image to print? When I see the image on my computer it's crystal clear... I just wish it would print that way.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have an image sized 20" x 24". I just have a standard 8.5" x 11" printer. Can I print the image in sections? If so, how?I did this with a PDF document once.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI began in PS CS5 by setting up a canvas 4 x 7" and begun designing. It didn't seem right to me so I decided to print a draft of my partially finished project and discovered it is in fact HUGE. I need to output an advert for a trade magazine which needs to be exactly 4 x 7". How do I ensure the output size will be exactly as planned?
View 3 Replies View RelatedIf I print near the top margin of an A3 sized paper, only the Excel text won't appear, but everything else will.
I included a zip file with some pictures as well as a camera shot of the problem after printing.
Plotting Issue.zip
When exporting smaller sized files (e.g. jpegs with 1000px width limitation), some of them are 1px shorter (999px in this case). It does not seem to affect files around 2000px export size, so it might be linked to the fixed export problem with output sharpening and noise reduction (URL...)
View 8 Replies View RelatedI wanted to set up a template for dealing with printing four images on a sheet.
I created an image the size of the sheet and then added four layers, each of the desired image size which needed to be positioned appropriately.
When I went to position the images, I could not find any reasonable way with the move command or with any of the layer operations to position each layer precisely.By that I mean simply type in the coordinates of the upper left corner, or move with the mouse where I see a text version of the upper left coordinate of the new layer position as I move.
If trying to position using the mouse, the lower left of the status line shows the position of the pointer itself, so that is useless in positioning the layer as a whole; and the numbers to the right of the per-cent size display show how much the layer has moved relative to its starting position, not the absolute position of the upper left corner. (I'll grant that the latter is useful, but in this case one needs something else, particularly if a layer has been moved and needs to be repositioned to a fixed location.)
The only way I could get what I wanted was to expand to 800%, and at that magnification I could grab the upper left corner with the mouse so the mouse position was itself the upper left corner position. Surely there's a better way?
Layer/Layer to Boundary Size... does not appear to work as advertised. The offset appears to be relative to the original size of the layer, not the original size of the image. The panner image is limited to the size of the layer, not the image. When you first bring up the dialog, you are unable to reposition the layer unless you change the layer size to make the layer smaller. If you make the layer half the size of its original size and then click "Center", the offset is set to - 1/2 the size of the original image, not + 1/2, which seems bizarre. The layer is scaled properly, and ends up where you would expect (based on the center command given, but not based on the offsets indicated), but the values in the Offset boxes seem to have the wrong sign. It works by moving the original layer relative to the desired new layer, rather than position the new layer size relative to the image. Which means you can't move the layer relative to the image if the layer is smaller than the image, and the graphic panner doesn't show you the layer position relative to the image as a whole. It is not at all intuitive and is not useful for quite a few common cases.
Layer/Transform/Offset shifts the contents, but not the layer itself. Which is what it is supposed to do, so that's ok; it's just not usable for this operation.
I have a design that is A3 size (i.e. 297 × 420mm) and 300dpi. I'd like to save out various versions of the image: one at full size, one at 150 dpi, one at A4 (i.e. 210 × 297mm) 150 dpi, and one at A4 72dpi. At the moment I'm doing this by saving different versions of the Photoshop PSD file and then doing a 'Save As' jpg from each of those.
What's the best way to save multiple sized versions of a design?
If I resize an image in Photoshop to be smaller and/or fewer DPI is that destructive or can I go back without loss of clarity? (I'm guessing not as the PSD file sizes are so different.)
I'm using photoshop cs6 on windows 7.
Ok so my image size is about 24x20 and when I save the output of the image is almost half the size. The project has a lot of details so it looks like a big blob shrunken down to half size. I've played around with the settings for hours in save for web option and I get the same results. how to save so the output is nearly the original size, or just so you can see the details!
MacBook Pro OS 10.7.4
Photoshop 6
Memory 8 GB 1333 MHz DDR3
Graphics Intel HD Graphics 3000 512 MB
603 GB available
I have recently had to begin using Clipping Paths for knockouts and silo's. I am having trouble though with moving the layer that has been knocked out and the clipping path that 'corresponds' to that layer.
What I want to know is if I can move them and size them together and still retain a clipping path? Every time I transform the layer and have the clipping path selected it only affects the clipping path. If I deselect the clipping path and transform it only affects the layer. The clipping path just stays where it is and I would have to move it independently of the layer to realign it.
Sometimes I want to re-orient the layer from vertical to diagonal on the white background but that will unalign it from the clipping path.
It might just be my coppy of Photoshop (7), but whenever I use the shape tool (round, rectangle etc) I always get a small fixed shape, and can't seem to draw the shape to the size I want. I can't do a free-transform after creating the shape, but I don't wanna do that as it alters the overall look.
Does anyone know what may be doing something wrong? Do I have to change a setting somewhere? Unlike the marquee tool, I m not able to select from a dropdown box for its constraints.
I am about to venture into creating a poster using a picture that I haven't gotten yet.
I'm wondering what I will need to do in order to get a reasonably non-pixelated poster when enlarging a picture from a smaller size.
Is the most important feature of the picture it's resolution? I know at times I've tried enlarging pictures and they are pretty pixelated after the process. I'm guessing that resolution is the key but I would love to hear from the experts that do this on a regular basis.
I know some of you have made building size signs, are these from pictures or are they from vector creations? How do you get these to be so clear when enlarging?
I usually create models in Inventor and import into Max for rendering. One particular model that I am creating has a small section which is a pit containing a pile of coal. Is there a quick and easy way to model a pile of random sized small objects such as coal, balls etc. in Max?
View 5 Replies View RelatedAny example of a demolitions drawing for an average sized building, showing interior partitions strip out, not sure if I have got it right and I am not sure how many other ways there are to show it,
I am mainly looking for different linetypes and legend with symbols
So a file sent to us was created in AutoCAD Map 2007 and we run AutoCAD MEP 2012 (and some on 2011). A Device ID Block was inserted in the Map program at 1:40 Annotative scale and was fine in their software, but when we load the files the attributes are enlarged to 40x their intended size. There are over 1,000 of these block in the plans and I've run out of solutions. I tried overwriting the block and it failed, and I also tried copying the oversized blocks into a file with the block predefined and that failed as well. At this point I am convinced I need to find or write a lisp for the repeated actions. I am crunching on the process for writing the lisp as I have written macros and VBA Functions for excel and understand the basic principles.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI frequently create labels that follow the same format: white text on a 75% opaque black background, with 10px of margin around the text. Currently, I have to manually build these labels, which takes a lot of work. In one method, I write the text, figure out its height and width, then create a separate rectangle and place it behind it. This takes a lot of clicking around for every label.
In the other method, I draw out a text box, select it directly, give it the correct background and margins, and then insert the text. However, I must then resize the box manually, meaning more clicking around and greater imprecision. There doesn't seem to be a way to directly select a text box once it has text inside it.
I tried using the script contained in a related answer to resize the text box to the content, but it only resizes the box vertically, and removes my color and margins.
I'm using CS3.
When I select multiple DNGs from within Lightroom, and on my mac go to menu>Library>Convert photo to DNG and then choose to convert to DNG with the lossy mode selected, only one of the selected DNGs is converted. How do I convert more at the same time? I have a large library, and I want to convert ~100gb of photos to lossy.
View 13 Replies View RelatedI have a single long interview that I'm trying to break down into smaller, bite-sized sublicps. I'm naming each subclip based on a few keywords from the interview. I noticed, however, that, after setting a subclip, if I have to adjust spelling or change the name in the project panel, EVERY subclip from the same master clip changes to match the newly renamed clip. Is there a way to prevent this from happening? If not, using subclips to break down long master clips is pretty useless as it prevents me from ever changing the names of single subclips. I've tried checking and un-checking the "restrict trims to subclip boundries" but the result is the same.
View 6 Replies View RelatedThe attached file shows the front castle of a ship with two ranges of windows on its white wall. I am trying to print this image with a laser printer on a transparent film while keeping the original white of the wall, letting only the windows inside their black frame transparent (the first two window frames of the upper row on starboard have been filled with a greyish tone merely as an experiment) - as if that transparent were projected on a dark surface rather than on a white one.
since the addition of all colours (i.e. 255) is equal to white and therefore to transparency (or to the absence of colours), and since transparency will show as, well, transparency when printed on a transparent film, how can white - in this case the white background of the wall - still be added to the transparent film while keeping only the windows inside their frame transparent?
All my attempts with a variety of painting tools (including those of Mypaint) and profiles failed. Should this be done with two different layers instead?
I've been printing out a lot of black and white photos on photopaper on a HP Photosmart 7510e.
The printouts are very dark so I've had to boost the brightness levelsin GIMP prior to printing. The problem is that this takes extra timeand I also don't want to save these levels in the XCF file. I would say that (going by the Gamma Display Filter) the printouts are around40% of the brightness they ought to be.