3ds Max :: Exporting Vrayphysicalcamera Depth Map Info?
May 23, 2012
I'm having a little bit of trouble extracting a correct depth map from vray.
It is a macro shot so the resulting depth map should be black close to the camera, white for the focus in the center and again black further away from the camera.
The vrayzdepth pass only creates a linear depth map (white close to camera a black further away. Even if i invert, duplicate and blend the zdepth channel on photoshop it doesn't look good.
I tried the rendering with the self ilumination material with falloff trick but still it only gives me a linear gradient depth map, not a focus point at the center of the image.
Also tried some depth of field plugins but none seems to allow me to export the resulting gradient depth map.
Is it so hard to extract the physically correct depth map from the vrayphysicalcamera? IS there any script for this?
I need to find a way to export the file info frrom many images back to a word or excel file. Does anyone know how to do it.
I can't even get the information out of one image file without the old copy and paste one field at a time, and have several hundred to do.
Just to clarify, the info I need is when you rightclick on the title bar and choose file info, and choose "description" then akk the fields on the right.
When opening photos through Bridge into Photoshop CS5, all photos open in 8 bit mode. Bridge shows my photos in 16 bit Mode. How can I change the default settings in Photoshop CS5 to open into 16 bit Image Mode?
If I click on Open image on a 16 bit image in Raw Photoshop opens as 16 bit. But if I open it from within photoshop or from Bridge, it opens as 8 bit (when it was a 16 bit TIFF image)
i'm trying to add a degree of depth to this image and also trying to create everything that is white to be transparent. i'm kinda lost, any suggestions would be appreciated. Photoshop 7.0
Photoshop seems to be converting pictures that I open to 8-bit from 24-bit: before the problem I think it was converting to 16-bit because Photoshop doesnt seem to support 24-bit but I cant remember.
I've been using Photoshop CS4 for about 4-5 weeks now without any problems and this just seems to have come out nowhere. The problem doesn't seem to be related to Camera Raw at all because I don't use it to import my pictures, so the "Workflow Options" don't seem to have any effect on the converting. I've also tried to delete the preferences file and that doesn't help either.
A friend of mine asked me if a could find a quality pic (intenet) of some gold bars. I searched iStockPhoto and downloaded one .eps file whitch I wasn't too happy with. Then I searched Google (large images) without a result. In desperation I searched Microsoft Office Clipart and found something (.jpg) I might be able to improve. I've used PS7 for some time but with this 8 bit image I feel "blocked" on where to start making the image looking more natural colourwise. Could someone please put me on the right track? Thank you. (I hope I've got the linking to the img. OK)
Any clear,full tutorial of a Z-Depth pass. The idea is to have that Pass that shows the close objects white, and gradually goes to black as they are more distant.
Also, how do I apply this in Photoshop, once i have the image?
Mental Ray - 3ds Max 2010. Nothing more, nothing less.
I'm want to add depth to my image. I've attached an image with the effect I'm looking for. Basically, it just makes the shape pop out just a little. I see they've did a fade around the edges, so I'm wondering what the easiest way to do this is. I achieved the same type of effect using the blend tool, fading the edges to black, but it's rather tedious and didn't look as good.
getting the best results when creating 3D images in Photoshop. I've been experimenting in the creation of 3D images using a 2D source using Photoshop CS5. The output is intended to be a lenticular print.
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I've achieved some good results by converting my single 2D image into multiple layers, creating 3D postcards and adjusting the parallax and focal plane. This gives a good illusion of depth in the image, but (in my experience at least) I can't get a layer to look like it's popping out of the screen.
I've also tried using a single image and creating a depth map from a greyscale image. This does work to make it look like the image pops out of the screen, but I can't get the same illusion of depth that I get in the other case without distorting the image.
What I'd like to do is combine both methods, using the depth map for the foreground layer and using parallax and focal plane settings for the background. Unfortunately I can't get this to work. If I use a semi-transparent layer as the basis for the depth map I get a light grey fringe around my target layer when I apply the greyscale mask and if I then try and set the parallax and focal plane settings as I would have in the first scenario, the layer with the depth map becomes unusable.
I took that picture earlier today. the problem is that the background looks to fake. like there no depth of field between the people and the background. i have attached another picture showing that there depth of field between the person face and the bricked background.
I use an older version of Photoshop. It is able to import and read a 16 bit depth file. Though it is limited in what it can do with this bit depth, it can do the levels and curves adjustments on an image. I want to have the best quality scan to start with for photo restoration in my older Photoshop. I won't be able to directly import the file with my older Photoshop from the scanner. If I scan a photo as a 16 bit 600 ppi image, I'm afraid color information will be lost when I open it in the older Photoshop. Is there any way I can open and save such a file without losing all that good color information? I know I would need to save it in a format that supports 16 bit depth like png versus jpeg.
how to create "Depth of field" in photographs but the effect is not really what I want.In all of the tutorials they create two layer and blur one of them, then apply a mask and gradient it to create the effect of dof. This is not what I wan't because it does't make the scene gradually more blurry, it only creates an extremely blurry layer and applies it gradually.
So what I'm looking for is a filter or plugin that gradually increases the strength of a blur using a mask.
I've recently been looking for a cost effective image editor to use alongside Lightroom and have been considering PantShop Pro X4. I downloaded the trial version and it looks like it will provide most the functionality I have been looking for ie. layers support in 16 bit/channel. It also integrates quite nicely with Lightroom allowing the transfer of a image using .psd format retaining the 16 bit/channel during transfer and subsequent editing. Unfortunately when attempting to save back in .psd format it presents the message;
"Because of the requirements of the specified file format, the saved file will have a bit depth of 24 (16.7 million colors). Would you like to continue?"
As far as I am aware .psd doesn't inherently have this limitation so is this a licensing limitation, a coding limitation in PaintShop Pro X4, a bug or a lack of knowledge on my part and there is a way to do this? I like that the edited image could of course be exported as a PSPIMAGE file to retain the option of re-editing or as a tif file to allow importing back into Lightroom but if it exported the full bit depth to .psd it would nicely allow the full cycle out of and back into lightroom fairly seamlessly keeping the least amount of extra files.
If I take an image that's 8 bits/channel and convert it to 16 bits/channel, Photoshop will tell me I have a 16 bits/channel image, even though it only contains 8 bits/channel of real information (I suppose the other 8 bits are all zero).
If someone gives me a 16 bits/channel image, is there any way that I check how many bits/channel of real information there are in it?
8 and 16 bits aren't the only options. For instance, I believe my Nikon CoolScan V ED film scanner is documented as providing 14 bits/channel. And, of course, some images may have fewer than 8 bits/channel.
I tried the solution given in another message to change the doc to BITMAP mode and greyscale. When I open the file to work on it, CS2 says its CMYK / 8 bit. Is the file truly 1 bit depth? Our scanning software won't allow the creation of templates on any other color depth.
I have attached an image photographed recently. I wud like to get your help on this. Is there any way that i cud use photoshop and make it more metallic and the diamonds look more attractive. Or is it that i shud have cared before photograhing the object.I am attaching the image and the look and feel that i wud like to get. If any one want to have a look into the real image i can send the raw too.
I'm importing TIFF images into a 3rd-party presentation software. Due to a problem in that software, it doesn't support 48-bit TIFFs. I opened my TIFFs in Windows Image Viewer, and they indeed are listed as 48-bit. The 3-rd party website simply said "use Photoshop to convert 48-bit TIFFs into 24-bit". How can I make 24-bit TIFFs?
I have some third-party presentation software that requires all images be 8-bit. So I used Photoshop for all photo editing and made sure my PSDs were 8-bit before exporting stills (PNGs) for my presentation. 50+ PNGs were successfully created this way, but i'm having problems with a single file. When I open the correct files in Windwos Pic/Fax View, right click, show properties, go to Summery (advanaced), all the correct files have a bit depth listed as 24.
My problematic PSD says it's in 8-bit, but the PNGs that I create from it are consistently listed as having 32 bit depth in Windows Pic/Fax View. As a test I exported other images formats (TIFFs, JPEGs, etc...) and they all came out as 32 bit depth. How do I fix this? I tried opening the PSD, saving as different name, switching to 16-bit and then back to 8-bit, still didn't work.
I just contacted Photomatix concerning this issue. They have developed the HDR plugin, which takes a series of bracketed exposures and picks the best portions of each to produce a composite of the best exposures for each area of the scene.
Now I want to find an equivalent program which accepts a sequence of images taken at varying hyperfocal distances in order to produce an image with a larger than expected depth of focus. The alternative would be simply to select the best, in-focus portions of each exposure and combine them for the desired result.
Photomatix thought that Photoshop CS4 has a capability in this regard.
The only answer I've found is to use linework, but that can't be the way to go in a program such as revit. That's the whole point of it, right? To not have to sit and do things manually and then have to change the lines every time something in the building changes. I know that Archicad can show line thickness depending on distance from elevation line. And god do i dislike Archicad, but that's exactly what I'm looking for.
Another answer I've found is to use shadows, but then you get the problem of only being able to print as raster = no sharp lines.
I trying to make DOF outputing Mental Ray z-depth render element but I get a lot of defects around objects and between objects. I use AE and FrischLuft to comp the two images, and how to optimize the anti aliason to get rid of the ghost effect and the smearing (see image).
How to make a human figure look like it has REAL depth.
If you have ever seen any of Ken Burns documentaries he uses a lot of pictures in his films from the past, but some of the figures or people in these stills appear in depth in such a way that they do not look flat.
Instead when the camera pans the picture they appear to be almost three dimensional inside the still. You can almost see in his stills there is a curvature to the outline of the figure. Their heads and bodies look as if they are inserted into the picture.
I have the removal of the background in the image down well enough but I don't know how to make the figure appear as if it is 3 dimensional in the new background. I wish I had a link to add here of his work as an example.
In Camera Raw7.3 there is (at the bottom) a switch depth 8/16 bit. Which one should I choose when working with Raw images? I have Canon powershot s110 at the moment.
