when i am saving into save for web & devices .. images are slightly blurring . when i'm seeing in photoshop images are good quality . after saving web & devices images are slightly blurring.
View 7 RepliesCombine these 2 images to make a slightly larger wallpaper. URls.....
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have done a little work and created these images. The blur does not look completely right to me because I just used the free select tool and would copy the coin part of the picture out and paste it back on with a different layer and line it up as well as I could. I would really like to make it look a lot better with no blurred part of the coin in the back ground. I would also like to turn the background of the image B&W and leave the coin in color.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am trying to combine these two images (I want to keep the very top of the first image but I like the second image better...there is just not enough of her hand). How would I be able to accomplish this while also getting the perspectives to match up? I can get the hand looking ok, but then the rest of the image is funky because nothing else matches.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI just upgraded to LR4. I have a number of images that I converted to black and white using Silver Efex pro directly from Lightroom 3. I also have scans of images from black and white negatives in my catalog. When updating these images from process 2010 to process 2012 in LR4 each image becomes ever so slightly warmer (dirtier) on the screen. I noticed this because when updating the process I checked the review changes via before/after box. Some of the images where tweaked a bit in lightroom 3, others not. Strange thing is that when I run the cursor over the images the RGB values in the histogram are exactly the same in the before and after images.
I would have to say the before looks cleaner and more neutral. I don't mind using process 2010 for previously worked on images; however, it does seem to defeat the purpose of upgrading.
When I save my renders in 8-bit tiff formats, the images are slightly blurred. They do not look as crisp as in the render window.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a dark and light layer from the same RAW image. The dark layer is on top.
I create a luminosity mask (Cmd-Opt-click RGB channel) from the light image.
I apply the selection as a layer mask to the top, dark layer.
The detail is bad, looking, maybe, posterized. The image does have lots of fine detail.
When I blur the layer mask, about 40, the image looks great.
****What does the blurring of the layer mask do, to bring out the detail of the image?**** I use layer masks often, and don't usually have to blur to see detail.
I tried to attach/insert a small crop with the 2 layers and mask for you to see, under 2 mb, but the content is not allowed.
I created a 1318x358 PNG (300DPI, Anti-Aliasing - Type Optimized) from Illustrator. Now I reduced the image in Photoshop from 1318 to 800 pixels, and it is creating some edge blurring. Look at the image below.
How can I take away that blurring effect when reducing the size? Even if I save it as PNG-24, with highest quality settings, it still does that effect.
I'm trying to resize an image (which I can't post the link to because I'm new), which is a simple iPhone icon, to about twice it's size however when I do this it comes out really blurry. Is there anyway I can enlarge this and still maintain the integrity of the image?
View 3 Replies View RelatedSomeone said that photoshop causes blurring when used for text in the printing stage on a cd cover.
How do I check to see if jpg images have been saved at a resolution of 300 dpi?
What if my original jpg image resolution is less than 300 dpi and I require 300 dpi; Is it possible to resave them to a smaller image size and in doing so increase the dpi?
What if a jpg image says it is ?.jpg @ 25%RGB? and I am supposed to save the files in CMYK; What is this ?Mode? setting and can it be changed through resaving the jpg somehow, or is it changed to CMYK when you open it in Photoshop and choose CMYK in the'Rasterize Generic PDF Format' window?
I am using XP and Photoshop 7
how to blur the background of an image. What i want to do is take a pic of my daughter & then blur the background so it makes her the prodomenant focuss of the picture.
View 3 Replies View RelatedAny else out there illustrating custom drop shadows may have encountered this. If I do a hard drop shadow ro in RGB does not happen as much. When I convert to cmyk happens more.
Have had some success by rather than going form 0,0,0,0, to 1,1,1,1,, I curve correct to from 0,0,0,0 to 0001 then to 1,0,0,1. I do not think this is a monitor collaboration issue, as have had this problem forever on so many different systems.
Below is a screenshot (i darkened the right half so you could see better).
I tried many different techniques all same result. Brushing with a 0% hard large brushgaussian blurring default black on a layer set to 11% opacity running all the blurs over and over again using eraser set to 0% hard adn large brush feathering a selection spatter filter in rgb mode, then covert to cmykadding noise .
I need to blurr out part of the video, i.e. the face when it appears in shot. Is this possible in Video Studio Pro X3 and how to do this?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI need to blur someone's face (at their request) for an educational video. How do I do this in Videostudio Pro x5?
View 3 Replies View Relatedhow to get better transforming. I am working with pixel art and I want to stretch it out by a few pixels. When I start to do that, the preview looks absolutely fine, but the final result gets blurred and starts going into alpha channels. How do I prevent this from happening? I know how to install plugins
View 2 Replies View RelatedWithout blurring it?
Also, how do I enlarge it with percents (like so, if I want to enlarge an image by 200%, how would I do so?)
I've been combing through several tutorials, but I can't seem to find a straightforward way to blur logos. I am looking to track and blur a logo throughout a shot that's already in my sequence. Occasionally instead of a blur, I 'clone stamp' the logo with a nearby area from the image to make the logo disappear.
View 7 Replies View Relatedif the blurring of maps works ok on their system? It behaves very strangely on my system. For example Checker works fine, Noise just blurs with the Blur option, the Blur Offset does not do anything, Gradient and Gradient Ramp only blur the edges and create strange patterns, Smoke and Cellular do not respond at all, neither to the Blur nor the Blur Offset. The renderer or the coordinates source do not seem to change that. Am I missing something, could this be a bug in v2012? I do not recall this behaviour from earlier versions. According to communication center I have all updates installed.
View 3 Replies View Relatedwhere to get started. I have a picture of a web page and the only parts I wish to blur are the text fields and text areas. Not sure how to blur just a portion of a picture.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI don't have experience with graphics so this is hard thing for me. I want to know how to undo the operation of blurring some objects (faces .etc) or whole picture made by brushing those objects that should be covered. I mean, i want to hide someones' face or other shapes, and i use for example "Ellipse" tool and create ellipse filled with black color. I use this ellipse to cover prefered shape on picture. After that i save the picture, then close it. When open again i can't undo this operation with "undo" button. And that's my question - which tool can undo such cover/blurring operations on images that are made long ago or aren't work of mine?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI've seen plenty of tutorials on how to blur out faces that stay within the frame, and these tutorials only showed demonstrations on short clips of one scene. What i am trying to do is blur out faces of people that appear on the video and then leave the frame, and there are other people that show up later in the video that i want to blur out as well. Would the blur remain on the video when the person leaves, and is there a way to have blurs for multiple faces that come up throughout the video?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI placed an image on an 8.5x11 piece of paper and saved it as a PDF. Once it was printed directly from Acrobat the image was printed slightly larger than when I print directly from Photoshop. Why is this and is there any way I can fix it?
By the way I've already checked to see if "scale to fit page" was checked and it was not.
I was wondering this b/c I'm sending a pdf to someone and I'm worried it's going to print larger than the actual size I want it at.
Photoshop 5, (not CS5, but version 5). I was using it on a Windows XP computer, but my new computer, running on Windows 7, would not run Photoshop 5. So, I bought CS6.
There's one problem. I use Photoshop primarily for coloring comics. Which means I create images in CMYK color. And I'm noticing a slight difference in certain colors in this new version. Most noticeably, in a color combo I use for coloring average "Caucasian Flesh".
My settings for this shade would normally be:
C-3
M-25
Y-25
K-0
This, in the old version of Photoshop, would produce a pretty average "beige" color. However, when I use this same color setting in the new version, the shade is noticeable pinker. Strangely, when I open documents in CS6 created in the older version, they retain the old, proper "beige" look. But the same color settiing in a new document produces this "rosey beige" color. (By the way, this isn't a "monitor issue"...... I have printed out the documents, and it's just as apparent in the printed versions.).
I suppose I could just use an altered color setting with less magenta, but I'd like to find out why this is happening, and why I can't use the same color settings I did in the old version of Photoshop.
I paint the background the same exact color as my layer background, the canvas color is not exactly the same. I'm assuming it's a color management/profile kind of issue, but I keep that stuff off.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI sometimes need to access my parents' PC for various reasons (ie. changing colour settings/fixing email probs) when I'm away from home. On our old Mac we used to use Timbuktu, which was quite good, but now we have a PC I believe there are better PC-PC remote access tools.
View 8 Replies View RelatedI'd be grateful for any tips anyone has for processing some photos to look in some way like these photos from the 1940s (including any possible effects aging has had) :
To begin with, I've read in various places that desaturating is not always the best way to change a colour photo to B&W, depending on the results you're after, and I'm thinking that perhaps this might be one of those times ?
What I am trying to do is replicate Australian racecars onto 1:64th models.
I take photo's of a particular car & then try to create the decals using the images in Corel. I clean up the images/photo's & when ready downsize the images to basically 1:64th size (matchbox car size) but the image blurs when I downsize & can't use the image.
My client and I are going back and forth on different computers and versions of Photoshop (cs4 for him and cs6 for me) and we are using the exact same font files. (I have quadruple checked this!!) We are also using the same settings and preferences both on screen and when we "save for web.
Also, all fonts are set to "crisp" -- BUT when we look at the files both on screen in photoshop, and on an ipad or screen as a .gif -- the cs6 version looks a TINY bit bolder/thicker. I'm working with various fonts and they're all doing this. See the two images below, I know the difference is almost insignificantly small, but this is an issue for the project we're working on.
CS4:
CS6:
With the burn tool one can use it several ways. The direct way is to just click on the tool and select whether you want highlights, mid-tones, or shadows. Each option changes the burn shade slightly. Also there are a host of blend modes which again changes the burn shade.
One can also create a burn layer and change blend modes, all with different effects. Then you can also use the brush tool and select color burn or color dodge, with the foreground color changing the shade of the burn.So all of these options give a great deal of control, but frankly I am just burned out on the process.
All I want is to have the burn deepen the color to more closely match the color in the shadows of the picture. It seems to work better on flesh and soft colors than on bright colors. In those cases I give up and resort to a brush in normal mode with color selected by eyedropper. But that can make the image more muddy as it covers up rather than intensify.
So wilh all the man-years of experience out there is there a more simple way to get the correct burn shade than going though 49 different variations? Or should I just stick with the brush and use a different blend mode?
I was hoping I could find a plug in for it. Any plug ins out there for that?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI've been experimenting with syncing audio and video in a precise way (something like URL....), and have found that in every output format except "MPEG Optimizer...", the sync is a little off... or at least different than the preview.
Through experimentation, I have found that you can be off by one frame and not really notice, but two frames and things look "amateurly" synced. Given that there is one frame leeway, I figured that rounding due to frame rate differences are accounted for, but this is not the case.
In some cases, I have also noticed transition and F/X changes, depending on the output format. For example, I have an image of a statue with "AutoSketch" applied. In the preview, everything looks wonderful. In HD MP4 output, the statue is drawn top to bottom, then the base of the statue disappears and is re-drawn. In DV and WMV format, the drawing is noticeably different, even though the resolution is the same.
What gives? If we can't count on the output to be like the preview, then all that time spent making a killer sync is just wasted