I've seen this effect used in some adverts on TV, as well as some pictures online (I really cant remember where, but I'll try to describe it as well as possible).
Let's say, for arguments sake, that they are advertising for an orange... a big fat juicy orange .
So, you'd see this guy holding the orange. However, the photo is made in such a way that everything is actually in grayscale, except for the orange itself, which is bright orange.
I have an idea that perhaps you select everything except the orange and then convert just that to grayscale, but surely there must be a quicker way if there are many of those objects? Perhaps you'd select a color range?
I have absolutely no idea, those are just my guesses. Any ideas on how to they achieve that effect?
how to use the match color tool to automatically convert one grayscale image into multiple output images based on a collection of color swatches? Or a better process to achieve this automated?
I have all the swatches in psd files in one directory. I can do them one-by-one but I was wondering if there was a way to automate this process and have it spit out and save the different images automatically based on the saved swatch colors.
We have a new Roland printer, an LEJ-640, which prints in CMYK plus white and clear gloss.
In order to print a white bitmap, I must apply a spot color to the bitmap. I used the Bitmap|Mode|Dutone to apply the white spot color and it seems to work correctly--it shows up as a spot color when I use the print dialog to preview separations.
When I use either print to file with the RolandVW print driver or File|Publish to PDF, the spot color on the bitmap is not preserved, Versaworks does not recognize it as a spot color. Color output is set to "Native". However, a vector object on the same page with the same spot color applied is recognized as a spot color.
The pink part in the versaworks screenshot indicates white spot color, as you can see only the vector object is recognized.
I recently installed CS5 on my laptop after first removing it from my previous machine.All licences were validated so no problems there.Now when using paint bucket in Photoshop, the colors that I select in the color picker are not the colors that result when I use the paint bucket.
If I create a new black canvas then the colors selected in color picker work with paint bucket.But if I attempt to recolor the background in an existing image that I import into Photoshop, I get the mismatch with colors when I use paint bucket. My method for selecting colors is the same in each case, I select 'set foreground color' and set the color using html values entry at the bottom of the panel.
Just wanted to print a new photo and realized that the colors in print preview do not match the colors in soft proofing. In both cases I selected the same icc profile and rendering method. The print colors matched the colors in print preview. I never had a problem so far. All new prints will be checked with soft proofing and adjusted when necessary. I never paid attention to the color rendition in print preview and all prints perfectly matched the colors from the soft proofing. I was surprised when my print came out of the printer and the colors weren't matching the soft proofing colors, but that of the print preview.
I don't understand why Photoshop renders the colors differently in the first place. See attached screenshot for the difference in the blue/cyan colors. I don't care if the print view colors will match the print, but I do care when soft proofing is not working.
1) new image, grayscale 2) fill (say 96,96,96) 3) image->mode->rgb color
The pixels will be (95,95,95) and (96,96,96) when they should *all* be the same.
It also happens when you paste a black & white image into an RGB document because even though it has three 8-bit channels (by definition not grayscale) Photoshop decides to make it grayscale.
I got Adobe CS3 Master Collection. Everything is fine, but there is one problem: In Photoshop grayscale images look brown or sepia. The screen itself is neutral, no color tints and I installed the driver. This problem only appears in Photoshop, Illustrator and not in other programs like Flash, Dreamweaver, Fireworks, Corel and ACDsee. In those programs grayscale pics look neutral. It has no effect when I disable the color management in Photoshop. RGB pics look great. When in desaturate RGB pics they look neutral grey but as soon as I convert them in grayscale, they become brown. In Photoshop's color managemet I can select a profil for RGB colors as you can see in the screenshot, but for grayscale I couldn't find a profil. Even in the internet I couldn't find one for my monitor.
The colors of pictures is much darker when working in photoshop than when I open it normally. And vice versa, I work on images inside photoshop, and I get the colors I want, but once I save it to bmp or jpg or anything else, all the colors are much lighter.
If we convert a color image set at 300 dpi to grayscale and save as a jpeg, and place in Quark Xpress, the image acts as if the resolution is set at 72 dpi. (In color, it acts as if it's 300 dpi.) If we save it as a grayscale TIFF, it acts properly as if it's 300 dpi.
Is this a bug, a "feature!", or can we change a setting? Is this only true for use in Quark, or do other have this issue placing images in different programs?
I'm using photoshop cs5 on an imac and printing with an epson cx4200. I made black and white collages in grayscale and am printing them on fabric. The first few I printed look great but now they aren't true black and white. They have a blue or red tinge to them. I don't know if the settings were inadvertently changed but I don't know what to do.
I assume I should have photoshop manage colors rather than the printer but I don't know what options to choose to eliminate the red or blue tinge in the grayscale image.
If you have an image that is in RGB or CMYK mode and you want it to be a sharp looking B&W, rather then simply going straight to greyscale, first convert it to Lab Colour. Then while in Lab, go to your Channels window and delete the last two channels. Your image will now be in B&W. Now you can convert it to greyscale.
Now I know all you skeptics who just tried it didnt see a lick of difference. The truth is, rarely are you going to see a dramatic change, rather it is very subtle, but the improved quality is there. The greys are a bit richer then before. It also depends on your image as well.
I need to convert an image to Grayscale in CS2, but I need to retain my RGB channels. I need them because a special bump map tool that I have, which also converts images to DDS format, requires them. And I need to make my bumpmaps with this tool because of the special format that dds files require for the game I am using these textures in.
I've been using the Photocopy filter, but I feel it leaves the image a bit "dirty." I'd like a clean Grayscale conversion.
I am looking for a Photshop Plugin or a series of steps that convert a grayscale image to a 3D image using the grayscale values from 00 00 00 to 255 255 255 as elevation where 00 00 00 is the lowest elevation. This technique is apparently called Shape Displacement Shading.
We create 4/1 postcards in Photoshop CS2 and then Print them on an IKON CCP650. The problem we're running into is that the IKON sees the grayscale back as color, so we are being charged double for each back printed.
We create the images new as grayscale; then save them as pdf with the color conversion option turned off. I don't know what - if anything - I'm missing that would make the IKON see the image as colored.
I need help with separating a grayscale image into dark and light channels. Specifically what I am trying to do is take a grayscale image and divide it into two (or more) channels representing the lower and upper percentages of black. I am doing this so that I can create a black and light gray spot color separation. In screen printing, the lower values of gray tend not to come out and get dropped when burning the film onto the screen. Additionally with dot gain being what it is in screen printing (30%+), it is advantagous to split the gray channel into two channels with only the upper half (50% or more black) into one channel, and the lower half (less then 50% black) into another channel. I have tried to eliminate both upper and lower halfs without altering the other half but can't figure it out. To explain another way, imagine completely elimimating 50% black or more from the histogram without altering the 49% and lower values or compressing them, and then again in reverse, keeping the 50%+ and completely eliminating the lower half.
I am faily new/inexperienced with photoshop. I have created a new file and am trying to place an image that is in color. When I place it, it turns grayscale.
I use some graphics software that accept the image in the form of grayscale as follow :the software then convert this grayscale to a 3d relief.is there a method to convert any image to such format with there details ?
I'm confused about gamma adjustment. I'm getting a book ready to be published by a print on demand company. It involves making a PDF using InDesign which contains photos which I've edited in Photoshop. The company has a list of specifications " to be sure that my PDF prints properly",and one of them says "The gamma of a grayscale image should be between 2.2 and 2.4." I don't know how to interpret this. If I change the gamma of a photo to 2.2 it obviously becomes much lighter, but then when it's saved the new lighter document has a gamma of 1.
I know I'm not understanding this at all. I've looked all over trying to figure this out. Most references refer to gamma adjustments for monitors, and I get that. I also know that when things are printed they will come out darker because of dot gain.
I have tried several options to get my grayscale pictures printed nicely.I have tried to change the gamma settings, lpi settings, image sizing. I have run out of options now.
why Photoshop changes grayscale values when pasted from the clipboard.
For example, I have a 24-bit bitmap on the clipboard that has every value set to (128,128,128). When I paste it into Photoshop the RGB values become (149,149,149) and (150,150,150), and not (128,128,128) like they should be.
how do paint in the same way.I think she starts by do some texture to her cleaned artwork using only gray.Then I think she apply some filter / adjustment to every area (in another layer) to give the colors to the objects.I've try to do the color change to her arm after changing it to grayscale.Then I used a layer in multiply mode then paint with skin color on it.Final part was hue/saturation editing.
I don't like my version.It seems very flat. Seems to be the same color with daker variations.The original was so colorful and shiny with dynamic colors.how to have this kind of effect?
a grayscale scan of a line drawing with small text. The lines and text, which should be black, are gray. And the background, which should be white, is a light gray.
The lines should be 100% black, but I'll take what I can get. I fiddled with curves and contrast and stuff, but when I'd get the background adjusted so it was completely white, then the lines weren't dark enough.
And of course converting to a bi-level bitmap made the lines and text all pixelly
this will be offset printed, so it needs to be high resolution.
I'm attempting to convert a grayscale image into a one-color (preferably black) image for screen printing on a white background. I was thinking something along the lines of gradient created with different-sized black dots?
