I'm using photoshop cs5 on an imac and printing with an epson cx4200. I made black and white collages in grayscale and am printing them on fabric. The first few I printed look great but now they aren't true black and white. They have a blue or red tinge to them. I don't know if the settings were inadvertently changed but I don't know what to do.
I assume I should have photoshop manage colors rather than the printer but I don't know what options to choose to eliminate the red or blue tinge in the grayscale image.
We create 4/1 postcards in Photoshop CS2 and then Print them on an IKON CCP650. The problem we're running into is that the IKON sees the grayscale back as color, so we are being charged double for each back printed.
We create the images new as grayscale; then save them as pdf with the color conversion option turned off. I don't know what - if anything - I'm missing that would make the IKON see the image as colored.
I am using Elements 6 for Mac with OS 10.6. My printer is a Canon MG8120, which uses several color cartridges (including a black and gray) and a pigment black cartridge.
Today I tried to print a B&W line-art document, and it printed in a faint yellow. I tried another B&W doc, and the same thing happened. I exported the documents as both .pdf and .jpeg, and they printed in B&W using the Preview application.
As it happens, all the color carts in my printer are either low or out of ink. Only the pgiment black is full (I put it in yesterday). So I wonder if my B&W docs have been printing from the color carts and not the pigment black cart. Is there any way to get PSE to use the pigment black cart?
Why is there no composite grayscale printing option in Illustrator? I see it in Acrobat and Indesign. There are times we need to print grayscale composites to check layout and content.
Besides converting all colors to grayscale, I see no way to simply print grayscale out of Illustrator. Am I missing something?
I have PDF files created in AutoCad Arch 2010. When I print them some of the grayscale comes out as random zig-zag line pattern. When I veiw the PDF it looks fine. Images that do this are usually backgrounds of logos or shaded driveways / sidewalks. Some sheets out of a given set will print fine while others do this zig-zag thing?
I have a 3 color logo: black, PMS 200U, and PMS 1955U. The logo was built in Illustrator and I have placed grayscale tiff ontop of it. The grayscale tiff is a stipple (dots) effect that I colorized to PMS 1955U in Illustrator, masked it out on top of the logo, and set it to multiply. Within Illustrator, the separations look good and it prints fine when printing directly out of illustrator.
The problem is when I export it to a PDF/x1a and try to print it, it doesn't print properly. Printing from acrobat, it only previews and prints the PMS 1955U stipple and black. The flat PMS 200U under the tiff doesn't print. I've tried bitmapping the photoshop file and making the stipple monochromatic and still doesn't seem to work when exporting to a PDF and printing.
Funny thing is, when I do the whole process for the CMYK logo (not PMS), it all prints out fine as a PDF/x1a.
1) new image, grayscale 2) fill (say 96,96,96) 3) image->mode->rgb color
The pixels will be (95,95,95) and (96,96,96) when they should *all* be the same.
It also happens when you paste a black & white image into an RGB document because even though it has three 8-bit channels (by definition not grayscale) Photoshop decides to make it grayscale.
I got Adobe CS3 Master Collection. Everything is fine, but there is one problem: In Photoshop grayscale images look brown or sepia. The screen itself is neutral, no color tints and I installed the driver. This problem only appears in Photoshop, Illustrator and not in other programs like Flash, Dreamweaver, Fireworks, Corel and ACDsee. In those programs grayscale pics look neutral. It has no effect when I disable the color management in Photoshop. RGB pics look great. When in desaturate RGB pics they look neutral grey but as soon as I convert them in grayscale, they become brown. In Photoshop's color managemet I can select a profil for RGB colors as you can see in the screenshot, but for grayscale I couldn't find a profil. Even in the internet I couldn't find one for my monitor.
If we convert a color image set at 300 dpi to grayscale and save as a jpeg, and place in Quark Xpress, the image acts as if the resolution is set at 72 dpi. (In color, it acts as if it's 300 dpi.) If we save it as a grayscale TIFF, it acts properly as if it's 300 dpi.
Is this a bug, a "feature!", or can we change a setting? Is this only true for use in Quark, or do other have this issue placing images in different programs?
I've seen this effect used in some adverts on TV, as well as some pictures online (I really cant remember where, but I'll try to describe it as well as possible).
Let's say, for arguments sake, that they are advertising for an orange... a big fat juicy orange .
So, you'd see this guy holding the orange. However, the photo is made in such a way that everything is actually in grayscale, except for the orange itself, which is bright orange.
I have an idea that perhaps you select everything except the orange and then convert just that to grayscale, but surely there must be a quicker way if there are many of those objects? Perhaps you'd select a color range?
I have absolutely no idea, those are just my guesses. Any ideas on how to they achieve that effect?
If you have an image that is in RGB or CMYK mode and you want it to be a sharp looking B&W, rather then simply going straight to greyscale, first convert it to Lab Colour. Then while in Lab, go to your Channels window and delete the last two channels. Your image will now be in B&W. Now you can convert it to greyscale.
Now I know all you skeptics who just tried it didnt see a lick of difference. The truth is, rarely are you going to see a dramatic change, rather it is very subtle, but the improved quality is there. The greys are a bit richer then before. It also depends on your image as well.
I need to convert an image to Grayscale in CS2, but I need to retain my RGB channels. I need them because a special bump map tool that I have, which also converts images to DDS format, requires them. And I need to make my bumpmaps with this tool because of the special format that dds files require for the game I am using these textures in.
I've been using the Photocopy filter, but I feel it leaves the image a bit "dirty." I'd like a clean Grayscale conversion.
I am looking for a Photshop Plugin or a series of steps that convert a grayscale image to a 3D image using the grayscale values from 00 00 00 to 255 255 255 as elevation where 00 00 00 is the lowest elevation. This technique is apparently called Shape Displacement Shading.
I need help with separating a grayscale image into dark and light channels. Specifically what I am trying to do is take a grayscale image and divide it into two (or more) channels representing the lower and upper percentages of black. I am doing this so that I can create a black and light gray spot color separation. In screen printing, the lower values of gray tend not to come out and get dropped when burning the film onto the screen. Additionally with dot gain being what it is in screen printing (30%+), it is advantagous to split the gray channel into two channels with only the upper half (50% or more black) into one channel, and the lower half (less then 50% black) into another channel. I have tried to eliminate both upper and lower halfs without altering the other half but can't figure it out. To explain another way, imagine completely elimimating 50% black or more from the histogram without altering the 49% and lower values or compressing them, and then again in reverse, keeping the 50%+ and completely eliminating the lower half.
i have an image that is 28' wide by 60' high. i have to tile print it, but i have to print it out on film (see thru acetate). it has to be able to print at 1400 dpi. i know how to print at 1400 dpi on adobe photoshop, but i dont know how to tile print on that program. i have the image now in illusrtator, because it lets me tile, but i cant get it to print out for film (1400 dpi). im using a epson 1280 printer.
i really need to be able to tile print this in high resolution on film. anyone know what i can do??
I am faily new/inexperienced with photoshop. I have created a new file and am trying to place an image that is in color. When I place it, it turns grayscale.
I use some graphics software that accept the image in the form of grayscale as follow :the software then convert this grayscale to a 3d relief.is there a method to convert any image to such format with there details ?
I'm confused about gamma adjustment. I'm getting a book ready to be published by a print on demand company. It involves making a PDF using InDesign which contains photos which I've edited in Photoshop. The company has a list of specifications " to be sure that my PDF prints properly",and one of them says "The gamma of a grayscale image should be between 2.2 and 2.4." I don't know how to interpret this. If I change the gamma of a photo to 2.2 it obviously becomes much lighter, but then when it's saved the new lighter document has a gamma of 1.
I know I'm not understanding this at all. I've looked all over trying to figure this out. Most references refer to gamma adjustments for monitors, and I get that. I also know that when things are printed they will come out darker because of dot gain.
I have tried several options to get my grayscale pictures printed nicely.I have tried to change the gamma settings, lpi settings, image sizing. I have run out of options now.
why Photoshop changes grayscale values when pasted from the clipboard.
For example, I have a 24-bit bitmap on the clipboard that has every value set to (128,128,128). When I paste it into Photoshop the RGB values become (149,149,149) and (150,150,150), and not (128,128,128) like they should be.
how do paint in the same way.I think she starts by do some texture to her cleaned artwork using only gray.Then I think she apply some filter / adjustment to every area (in another layer) to give the colors to the objects.I've try to do the color change to her arm after changing it to grayscale.Then I used a layer in multiply mode then paint with skin color on it.Final part was hue/saturation editing.
I don't like my version.It seems very flat. Seems to be the same color with daker variations.The original was so colorful and shiny with dynamic colors.how to have this kind of effect?
a grayscale scan of a line drawing with small text. The lines and text, which should be black, are gray. And the background, which should be white, is a light gray.
The lines should be 100% black, but I'll take what I can get. I fiddled with curves and contrast and stuff, but when I'd get the background adjusted so it was completely white, then the lines weren't dark enough.
And of course converting to a bi-level bitmap made the lines and text all pixelly
this will be offset printed, so it needs to be high resolution.
I'm attempting to convert a grayscale image into a one-color (preferably black) image for screen printing on a white background. I was thinking something along the lines of gradient created with different-sized black dots?
