My version of Photoshop Elements 9 does not have the option "duotone" in the Image - Mode tab. I've got some grayscale photos I'd like to convert to duotones, but Adobe's instructions all say to choose "duotone" from that tab ... but it's not available.
View 4 RepliesI use some graphics software that accept the image in the form of grayscale as follow :the software then convert this grayscale to a 3d relief.is there a method to convert any image to such format with there details ?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI'm attempting to convert a grayscale image into a one-color (preferably black) image for screen printing on a white background. I was thinking something along the lines of gradient created with different-sized black dots?
View 5 Replies View Relatedi did some searching and couldn't quite get this to work. i have grayscale tiff images of scanned book pages and i want to try converting them to a simple b&w (to reduce filesize). what is the best way to do this?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI just purchased a copy of Elements and have never used it before. Most of my features (such as layers etc) are grayed out. However, my "covert to 8bit/channel" option is grayed out and I can't work out how to choot in 8-bit or how to covert my 24 bit photos to 8-bit.
View 12 Replies View RelatedIs it possible.
View 11 Replies View RelatedIt is possible to apply the Convert to Grayscale(Edit->Edit Colors->Convert to Grayscale) for the selected items in illustrator cs3 in script (javascript)?
View 12 Replies View Relatedhow can I make a duotone from multichannel pic.
I've got Grayscale pic with spot colour channel (pantone bla bla), black channel and couple of layers. Preview(although grayscale) shows spot colour (blueish). One layer is a woman(black channel only), second is her shadow (black channel only) which overprints-multiply the background which should be that spot colour. That background is not in layer, but in channel.
It would all work well, but I need to make a duotone to be able to save it as EPS, and not as DCS 2 as it is now. Reason for that is that I have to make a PDF and my composite driver(ppd) won't spool it to PDF. If I print separations(to PDF) it's all fine, but I need a composite image with spot colour background.
I am using CS3 and Vista.
I am trying to use the presets for duotones.
I go Image | Mode | Duotone | Load...and get nothing. The Duotones folder is empty. A quick search of the internet suggests that the files have been moved. So I searched my pc for *.ado and got nothing. No files.
I have a color picture, and I want to convert it to B&W, and then I want to add another color to it (for example – red). I don’t want to paint some areas in it, I want for example to keep all the red parts of the picture, or only part of the red parts.
It something like in the movie Schindler's List, in the B&W scene where you see a little girl with red coat.
Have a question regarding setting up a file for printing 2-color images...Similar to an earlier thread, I am starting off with a CMYK file, which I've changedf to a grayscale file. However, this grayscale file is a layered photographic pattern, one layer has a crossstitch-like scanned-in pattern, another layer has a textured background pattern with little dots. I would like to convert this image to a 2 color image, where the different colored areas do not overlap(one color being the crossstitch pattern and the small dots, the other color the textured background). I've tried using the duotone function in photoshop, but keep on getting color blending of these two colors where they overlap. Is there any way using this duotone function to specify that the 2 colors don't overlap/overprint each other? I am planning to use 2 pms colors (7509 and 259 while I test out ways until I get my 2-color idea working).
I also tried doing spot channels, and even though this makes it easy to indicate which parts of the image are specifically one color or the other, the colors are flat colors, and I lose the texturing and "3-d" effect the grayscale pattern has right now.
I am using Elements 6 for Mac with OS 10.6. My printer is a Canon MG8120, which uses several color cartridges (including a black and gray) and a pigment black cartridge.
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Today I tried to print a B&W line-art document, and it printed in a faint yellow. I tried another B&W doc, and the same thing happened. I exported the documents as both .pdf and .jpeg, and they printed in B&W using the Preview application.
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As it happens, all the color carts in my printer are either low or out of ink. Only the pgiment black is full (I put it in yesterday). So I wonder if my B&W docs have been printing from the color carts and not the pigment black cart. Is there any way to get PSE to use the pigment black cart?
Duotones cannot be saved to Lightroom. Why and when will this feature be added to LR?
View 1 Replies View RelatedHow can I take a color photo, change it to grayscale, then recolor part of the photo, such as a flower or a person?
View 2 Replies View RelatedWhy is it so hard to remove grayscale colors from background. Have tried several tools and methods with very poor results. Can it be done?
View 8 Replies View RelatedI have several thousand photos that were taken with a digital camera set to take photos with a 3:4 ratio. When I try to print them, they get cut off. I've found that if I resize, copy, then paste to a 4x6 blank photoshop file, and save it as a jpeg, they print just fine (with some extra white space on the ends). This process takes 45-60 seconds per picture.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am using InDesign for a class presentation. I was told I should convert any Photoshop images that I use from RGB to CMYK for printing, but I am just printing it at home on my little desk-jet.
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Second question: If it IS necessary, why do I get a alert in Photoshop saying "You are about to convert to CMYK using 'U.S. Web Coated (SWOP) v2' profile.
What's the best way to get its photos into my computer for PS editing?
View 6 Replies View RelatedAny ideas how to convert photos to line drawings? The best I've come up with so far is greyscale, then filter / stylize / find edges. Not bad .... but I think I could do better.
View 2 Replies View Related"Add people" feature has never worked in Elements 11. How do I fix this? It recognizes faces in individual photos, but not in groups of photos.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhen opening my jpeg photos in Photoshop elements 9, once saved elements seems put the image in a format that my Apple Mac isn't compatible with. So when I then try and upload the images to Facebook or other software in a bulk upload the images are highlighted and I therefore can't select them and upload.
View 16 Replies View RelatedSomehow in starting to use Elements all photos have been duplicated.
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How do I delete the duplicates without going through thousands of photos?
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How do I stop the program from creating and saving thousands of duplicates?
New user to PSE11. Is it recommended that ALL photos be in albums or is the idea that photos in albums are a subset of the photos in folders? With all the sort and search functionality, I don't understand the benefit of albums.I name my image folders using a standard naming convention with the date embedded so it makes them rather easy to manage.
View 1 Replies View RelatedThe instructions in Adobe Photo Elements 11 Classroom In a Book are the classic Windows "Drag and Drop" Method. However, when I try to do it, the cursor/icon I am dragging turns into a gray circle with a gray diagonal when it reaches the Media Browser pane in the Organizer and the folder/photo is not imported into the Organizer when I "drop." Do I need to change setting in Windows (Vista, SP2) or Photoshop Elements 11?
View 3 Replies View RelatedMy photos are OK in the Organizer, but the portrait photos are cut off at the top or bottom when used in a slide show. I have checked the "Crop to Fit" portrait selection but it makes no difference. I have Version 9 of Elements.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI just upgraded to photoshop elements 11. When I attempt to sync photos in iTunes (to synch with my iPhone), Photoshop Elements appears in the drop down and when I select it, it finds all the "albums" in the catalog. However, when I select an album to sync, iTunes indicates 0 photos are available in the album.
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I'm running photoshop elements 11, iTunes 11.0.1.12, Windows 8 Pro.
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if I try to sync "all photos and albums" it still reports that there are "0 photos" available to sync.
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I've tried to make new albums, which iTunes "sees" the names, but there are "0 photos" available to sync.
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I've also tried to sync with a folder (file system) which works just fine.
when I attempt to convert photos using the Tools > Photoshop > Image Processor option in Adobe Bridge. I used this methodology in the past and the conversion to JPG or TIFFs would fly with no interruption. Now I am getting now getting getting dialog boxes with "New Snapshot" in the title, I click OK, then get a message, "The command "Feather" is not currently available," I click "continue, and get a "New Layer" dialog box, I click OK, and get a "Fill" dialog box, I click OK and the JPG or Tiff is then generated. This series then starts over on the next photo to generate. I am using Photoshop CS5 on a MAC. I did uninstall and reinstall Photoshop l, but I am getting the same series on messages.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI can not paste photos from my photos file. If I start a blank file I can paste anything photos want from the web in as many layers as I want. If I try to paste a photo from my own photos file it becomes the back ground by itself. I don't know how to stop this. Using photoshop elements 11.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI had 9875 photos that I wanted to convert to the latest DNG format and also include lossless compression and embed fast load information.
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I marked all photos and selected 'Convert photos to DNG' from the library menu.
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Days went by and the convertion worked almost perfectly.
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30 photos can not be converted but Lightroom does not tell me why. Some photos are copies of others and the originals has been converted without problems.
I have done LOTS of detailed research into ppi, dpi etc.
I believe I do understand the difference. Whenever I open a picture in gimp it opens at 72ppi. I wish to scale all my photos to 300 ppi so i can use a template I made of the exact same size paper as my printer uses without having to worry about the printer rescaling my photos from 72 ppi to whatever dpi it needs.
I have converted lots manually and am assured that this works for my purposes (not professional just scrapbook and photo album prints)
I have two questions though;
1. Is there a freeware program, or a way through gimp, that I can batch convert multiple files up to 300ppi.
2. Why when I change the ppi of a photo does the filesize become larger? Surely the ppi is just a reference number to know how many pixels to display and to convert for printing?
I have a long and complicated road trip timelapse photo set I'm converting to an animation. That i've managed to sort out. However I also have some panoramas that i took here and there. I'm trying to take these panoramas (about 11 of them) into their component images,but with an overlap so that they will be in the animation appearing as a pan.
So I have about a dozen of these fairly wide images (2096 x 544 for one of them), and each of these i want to split into about ten images with a reasonable "overlap".
Given the amount of potential images, and my desire to have a smooth pan, making composite images manually wouldn't really work.
I've been using ifranview to bulk crop and resize images but i couldn't work out a way to do this so I switched to GIMP, which I'm not great with.
I've grabbed the guidelines every x pixels script and guillotine into layers plugin, hoping I could guillotine across multiple guideline "units" but all it's given me is dozens of vertical slices of the image.
I could merge and duplicate them but that would take ages.
At the moment I'm thinking my best option is to put the guidelines on and use selections to snap to guidelines and paste as seperate layers, then save all the layers as seperate files. However that still seems very slow and clunky and i'm wondering if there's a better way.