GIMP :: How To Switch Off Highlighted Area
May 30, 2012
I used the Ellipse Select Tool to cut, then paste an area in an image. Now the move of this image component is done I need to 'switch off' the ellipse to paint outside it. I expected the 'Select' 'None' menu option to switch it off, but it doesn't.
What should I do?
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Jan 9, 2013
If there is a way to switch between the eye dropper/brush tool fast.
On Photoshop there the "alt" key but on my mac it really wastes a lot of time for blending colors .
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Jun 18, 2012
when saving images for the web i try save them as indexed png's to save space.
however, when switching to indexed mode GIMP will alter my colours if i choose to use a palette with less colours than i have in the image. This is the most noticable if for example i have an image with bacgkround #ffcc00 and a multicoloured icon in the middle. due to the icon the image probably has over 100 colours. if i then choose 64 colours not only will it affect the colours in the icon, but change the entire, large, unicoloured background area to maybe fec50a (just an example). is there anyway to force GIMP to only use colours already present in the image?
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Aug 30, 2013
I have Gimp 2.8 and I am using Single-Window Mode. I have about 15 images open at the same time and I am doing repetitive tasks on each of them. I made keyboard shortcuts to do the tasks themselves but I still have to use my mouse to go up and click the next tab to start work on the next image. It would save time if there were a keyboard shortcut. I see that under the Windows menu I can use Alt+1 through Alt+0 to select any of the first 10 images, but I have 15 open.
I wanted to know if there is a keyboard shortcut to just switch to the next tab or the previous tab.
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Jun 17, 2012
i am planning to spend some weeks in France - and there i want to take many many pictues.
The question - shoulkd i switch off the color chanel before i take the fotographs or afterwards. I can swith it off at the Nikon Camera - sure thing
Black and White - when to switch off the color chanel
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Jul 23, 2013
For a long time I'd been using Gimp 2.8.0 on my Mac Mini. (Running Lion) It worked well, but it had a few annoying Wacom-related bugs.
Today I upgraded to Gimp 2.8.6 ... and it's very very slow. I tried 2.8.4. Also slow. (On the plus-side, the Wacom bugs are totally gone.)
I tried a couple of different binary builds. The two linked from the Gimp homepage and one from Partha.com. All very slow. At print resolutions, even something as simple as changing a layer visibility (Previously almost instant) now takes the better part of a minute.
Did something horrible happen to the rendering code during the X11 migration?
I've tried
--Turning off all color management.
--Working on monochrome files. (No improvement, which makes me think it must be draw-related.)
-- Increasing and decreasing the tile-cache size.
--Cursing.
So far I've just been using pre-made binaries, but I'm not adverse to compiling my own if I absolutely have to.
Rolling back to 2.8.0 fixes the performance problem, but I'd really like to have the bug fixes.
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Nov 7, 2013
For instance, when I go to paintbrush tool.
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May 19, 2012
If I'm editing an image and I click the toolbox (or, say, the docked layers dialogue), if I hover my cursor back over the image and press and hold spacebar so I can scroll around the image, currently I have to click within the image window before it registers my keystroke.
The more intuitive behavior and what I want to be able to do is just hover my mouse cursor over a window and and keystrokes or scrolling I perform happen within that window. This currently happens if I scroll using my mouse scroll wheel, but not with keystrokes.
I'm using single window mode in Gimp 2.8, though I've also experienced this issue in non-single window mode when using Gimp 2.6.
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Mar 16, 2013
Take any image. Enlarge the canvas to create an area of transparency. Find out you can't draw on it. Click and unclick the buttons by "Lock:" in the layers bar. Get really really frustrated.
What do I do to fix this (before I give up and uninstall Gimp)?
(to pre-empt the innevitable question - I can't draw on an area of transparency. Even if I copy a section of picture and paste into a new layer and move that to cover the transparent area, it isn't visible. Its like there's an area of completely opaque transparency covering everything else.)
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Dec 21, 2011
The way I like to darken an image of a photo is that instead of using the burn tool, I create a new layer, set the opacity low (say 15) and then paint in the areas that I want to make darker. This gives me increased flexibility when I want to go back and fix what I did because I'm not altering the original layer.
Here's my problem though. One thing I like to do is to blur that layer using a gaussian blur to soften the edges of the area I am darkening. That works nicely but inevitably after applying the gaussian blur I want to come back and change something. That's a mess once the layer has already been blurred. So the work-around I've found is to save my darken layer and hide it from view (using the eye beside the layer) and then duplicate the layer and apply the gaussian blur. Then when I need to modify the area that I am darkening, I delete the visible blurred layer, change the invisible non-blurred version, then reduplicate and reblur. And that works.
What I think I want is some sort of "blurring" layer. Is there anything like that out there?
Lots of times I want to blur a mask a little and that gets to be a real pain. The steps I use to save my non-blurred version is to copy the mask to selection, then selection to path then change the path name to be Mask: (layer name). And then when I need to edit the non-blurred version, I delete the mask, change my path to a selection, then add mask from selection. then make my change, then reblur. Again it works but its difficult.
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Oct 14, 2013
The other day I accidentally hit a keystroke combination that produced an effect I was surprised and happy to see. I have not been able to reproduce it.
I had a layer that was smaller than the layer below it, those being the only two layers. And somehow I was able to select the size of the top layer down onto the lower layer in a way that I could move around to position.
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Oct 15, 2012
I've increased the canvas size on an animated gif that I found and it's transparent. I can't work out how to have this new area as something I can put text on with a black background colour.
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Feb 9, 2012
Fitting text to a specified area. To clarify, I am trying to fill letters into a Harley Davidson logo. The top and bottom rockers on the logo have the text skewed to fit the shape of the shield. If you are familiar with the logo, the text in the top and bottom rockers has one flat side and one stretched side.
I've attempted to try some text to path options but they aren't doing at all what I need. It's essentially a standard line of text with either the top or bottom (respectively) stretched to fit the point of the top rocker and the curve of the bottom.
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Aug 7, 2011
How would I go about making the side of his face less bright, how to isolate just that one specific area. (And I no longer have the xcf file saved).
I also noticed that after using the color and saturation tools, there are red lines on the scruff of his cheek. (I discovered that those lines were on the original pic, but they just became more visible after working with the color/contrast/etc). Is there any way that I can "smooth" those red lines without making it look like the dog's breakfast?
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May 28, 2011
Is there any way to deselect an area after you've selcted it.
EX: I create a cut out, move my cut out and the dotted line area of cut out is still there. Or I create a box , but I cant get rid of it....
I know.. It's probably simple but I have been trying and I searched the forums before posting.
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Oct 27, 2011
THERE I'D LIKE TO ASK ABOUT CUTTING ... SO I'VE DONE THE SCISSORS THING ,CLOSED THE SELECTION AND IT APPEAR IN A FRAME , HOW DO I MOVE SELECTED AREA ? ALSO HOW TO MAKE THE FRAME ITSELF DISAPPEAR ?
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Sep 8, 2006
how to make your render "pop-out" of the signature area. It gives a really cool effect and is really simple to do. When we are done, it will look a little like this.
OK, to begin, you need to prepare your render. I am going to use this one.
Feel free to use it if you want to.
Open up a new image with the dimensions of 400 x 125. Now you will need to make a background. I'm not going to give any real steps on how to do this, but if you look around on this site, there are many tutorials showing you how to make them. Try using this one, as it is the way I am going to make mine. Don't add the render to your background though. We will do that later.
Following those steps you will get something like this. If you want to add a border, now is the time to do it. The link to the tutorial I told you about above will also show you how to do this.
You now have both a background and a render. Press Ctrl + A to select everything. Now go to:
Image ---> Canvas Size A window like the screenshot below will appear. If you made the size of your image 400 x 125 like I told you, simply set the settings to the same as shown. If you have used a different size, double the width and height of your image and type what the numbers come to into the boxes names "Width" and "Height". Set the offset X and Y values the same as in the screenshot.
Press "Resize".
Your canvas will now look something a little like this.
This is just how you want it.
Now for your render. Open it up and it will appear in a new window. If its to big, resize it. Now go back to your signature window and make a new layer. Copy your render and paste it on to your new layer. A handy tip to know is when you press F11, it will bring The GIMP into full screen mode allowing you to see what you are doing clearly. You should get something like this. Yours will have little dotted squares all behind it though like the image above. Its OK, its how it should be.
Now add some text or whatever you want on your signature. A cool way to make text look good is to type what you want out on to your signature in white, move it to where you want it to be, set that layer's mode to "Overlay" and then duplicate it untill it looks nice. Heres what I got. Again, squares should still be present.
Now merge all the visible layers by pressing Ctrl + M. Select the first option. Now right click on the layer in the layers window and select "Alpha to Selection". This will select all your signature. Copy it by pressing Ctrl + C. Then go to:
Edit ---> Paste as New
This will open up a new window with your signature in it. Go to:
File ---> Save as . . .
Save it as "Popout Signature.png" it must be in a .png for it to work.
Thats it your all done! This is what I got.
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Aug 15, 2012
I am recoloring a paintball gun from blue to green. There are some parts with screws in the middle, is there a way I can select one area, and have another inverted?
[URL].......
This is what I have so far. You see that rectangle with the screw in the middle? There's my issue. I need to colorize the blue, but not the screw.
I know there is a tool where it everything is masked in red and it selects what isn't red, but that is too hard to use. I want to use the lasso tool.
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Nov 6, 2011
I've selected a rectangular area of a jpeg and I want to fill it with a particular colour from another area of same image. Bucket Fill doesn't work here as it only selects from particular colours and shades in forground/background.
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Jun 21, 2011
So I'm trying to make a modified loading screen for a game (Homeworld 2 to be exact) but I'm not sure how to do this. You see the loading screen has a black background with a blue line in the shape of a hud, with the actual picture inside of it (Example, the loading bar is rendered dynamically and not part of the image). What I was thinking of doing, is erasing the inside, then copy & pasting the picture I want as a new layer over it, then cropping out the area outside the blue "hud" to give a black background with a internal picture. I was wondering if there would be a way to do that without overwriting the blue outline and having to do it manually.
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Apr 10, 2011
I want to remove all but a rectangular area from an image. I do not want to make the rest of the image white, I want it to go away. I want to just have the rectangular image pixels left.
To be explicit, I want it to be like I cut up a photo, and threw the outside away.
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Aug 12, 2011
I have a cloud.png image and want to make the area around the cloud transparent.
So i used the 'select by color tool' and now i want to fill the selected area with TRANSPARENT.But the 'bucket fill' doesn't allow for that.
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Mar 22, 2012
Estimate how big an area of a website is, so I know how big I should make my image?
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Jan 10, 2012
There is an area of my face that is a little darker because of a pimple scar or something. So its a dark pink/red, and i want to make it lighter to match the rest of my face. How can i do this?
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Jul 3, 2011
I want to get rid of it, so i'm copying various parts of the background, and pasting them over the signpost. unfortunately, after pasting a section, i can't seem to deselect the newly pasted section. I've had a google and many forums are telling me to go Select -> None, but this is greyed out. I can save the picture, close it, and reopen in GIMP, but i dont want to do this everytime I paste.
I'm using 2.6.8 by the looks of it.
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Jan 10, 2014
I have an image with just one color, black. But it has a shadow which is partially opaque. I want to select the shadow, so I can delete it. But when I use "select by color" it selects the whole image including the shadow. How do I just select the shadow? Or conversely, how do I just select the image?
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Oct 18, 2012
How do I select an area, and then use it as a paintbrush?
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Nov 25, 2013
These gradients in gimp are really hard to figure out (not saying other things seem easy to me), however I'm sure if one knows what to do, they can solve many problems.
I had that screenshot of a text list:
And I wanted to make it fade away from the highlighted line:
However, with the blend tool, this is actually impossible or really really hard, because I can't aim it so preciselly.
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Dec 12, 2011
I was able to remove a person from a photo use the path tool, select path, then hitting the delete button. However, I cannot seem to use any other tool to fill color into the white area left behind when I removed the person.
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May 25, 2012
I am trying to use the rectangle tool to select a rather specific area. I am trying to make a 50x50 square in the bottom left corner, but I don't know how I would accomplish this.
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May 12, 2012
I have selected a Layer in Gimp and I have a certain selection inside the Layer.
Now I click on tool "Bucket Fill", Mode=Normal, Fill Type=FG Color Fill, Affacted Area=Fill Whole Selection.
Opacity is 100%
The FG color is black.
But when I click into the selected area it gets filled with a transparent black! When I click again it gets more opaque and after another click its fully opaque black.
But why does Gimp fill the area transparent after I first clicked even though Opacity is 100.0??
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