3ds Max :: RGB Colour Correction For Gamma 1.0 To 2.2
Jan 14, 2013
So it seems 2013 is the year for Linear Workflows, i've read several articles and twitter posts about prevalent artists and companies promoting Linear Workflows.
Up until now i've understood the theory and have employed it occasionaly, however i have legacy issues applying it across the board.
when switching to Gamma 2.2 we get the 'wash out' with colors, is there a tool, plugin, script, or even straight formula or equation to convert RGB colors from Gamma 1.0 to 2.2?
after applying gamma correction on an image , would that affect its looking / view ? I tried to apply gamma correction 0.45 and it gives me good results on windows OS . I am not sure that this is the right thing to do ?
How can I know that after applying image enhacement ( gamma correction , resample , etc ) would produce a better image quality ? is there any software /tool that I can know that the image after applying the enhancement is better than before ?
Is it possible to render to texture with the gamma set to 2.0?
I am working with Vray and i set the gamma to 2.0, the render works fine, but the Render to Texture seems to be bypassing and neglecting this value set in the Vray/Color Management, and the Gamma LUT settings, and it renders dark textures.
I training myself photo retouching and I am tring to understand how to do colour correction correctly for output in printing press. So I am intrested in CMYK settings
I have two quections
1) How i understand so far it is important to find in a photo you are working to correct the shadows, mid, and highlight,(photoshop cs book) it said to use the threhold to find the shadows and highlight, but is say much about midtones. Anyone know any trick or tip to find out the midtones? what do you look in a photo to find it?
2) How find the correct balance in colour so when it go to printing press is not too light or too dark?
When I apply colour correction, either 'auto' or using the sliders, the video becomes 'soft' (looks like it is out of focus). Is this normal, & is there a way around it?
Colour correction can involve up to seven steps: setting Gray to correct color, achieving good contrast, balancing colour to remove colour casts, adjusting skin tones, saturation, sharpening and converting to CMYK.
Make sure info palette is open. Set (palette options) your first colour readout to grayscale and your second to RGB. Choose the eye dropper tool and set the sample size to 3x3.
1. Finding Gray to correct colour Find a neutral gray in the image. K in the info palette should read 50%. If there is no gray, find an object that is somewhat neutral. Write down the numbers displayed in the RGB readout window. Add these values together and divide by 3 to get the average brightness of these values. (Equal RGB values will create a neutral gray with no colour cast.)
Image>adjust>curves Leaving the pop-up set to RGB will only change the RGB in equal amounts. This is not the correct procedure.
Start by choosing the Red channel. Click anywhere on the curve to add a point. Click on the input number and enter the Red Value of the sampled colour. Click on the output number and ten enter the average number you calculated.
Repeat this step for the Green and Blue channels. Most of the colour cast should be removed after this step is complete.
If the image looks totally out of whack, you may have selected from a poor area. Try finding another neutral area on the image.
2. Achieving good contrast If the image looks flat and lifeless you may need to optimize the contrast. The best way to adjust the contrast is to adjust the levels for each colour. (Adjusting the RGB slider may cause posterization effects in your image.)
Image>adjust>levels Change the pop-up window to Red and drag the input sliders (left and right) until they touch the beginning and end of the main histogram. Ignore stray pixels and concentrate on the areas where the slope begins and ends.
Repeat this process for the Green and Blue Channels.
Your image now has a full range of contrast (0-255) for each of RG&B.
3. Colour Balance (removing colour casts) Highlight, shadow and mid-point are three areas of an image that should usually be a shade of gray. The objective here is to make the brightest area of the image as bright as possible and the darkest as dark as possible without losing detail.
Pure white (255, 255, 255) settings will "blow-out" when the image is printed and pure black (0, 0, 0) will "plug" when printed.
To adjust for this you need to set up minimum and maximum ink limits. Click on the foreground colour to open the colour picker. Set the Saturation (S) to 0 and Brightness (B) 100 (white) and then click on the Brightness button. Move the slider down the grayscale bar until the Magenta and Yellow readouts indicate values to who are adjusting toward. (M 5%, Y 5%) The cyan value is usually higher.
When done, check the RGB values to the left. They will show you the value (they should be the same) to be used to achieve the minimum ink values in CMYK. Make note of the RGB value.
Repeat the process for the shadow areas.
Total ink limit is usually around or less then 300% (add the CMYK values). Make note of the RGB values here as well. For the midtones area, refer to the colour readout in the info palette. Add the numbers and divide by three.
Create a curves adjustment layer. Since you are attempting to balance out the colours, you need to work on the individual colour channels by adjusting them. Add an adjustment point to each curve (central location) Proceed to apply the values for the highlight, shadown and midtones by selecting the appropriate adjustment point and entering the input and output values.
For the mid-point area you will have to use the individual RGB channel adjustment.
4. Skin Tones
I'll do this later. The image now should be pretty good and this step may not be necesary.
5. Optimizing Saturation Before adjusting the saturation, turn on the Gamut Warning.
view>gamut warning
Create another adjustment layer for Hue/Saturation. If no gray appears in your image you can increase the saturation until you start seeing small areas of gray. If you see large areas of gray (blotches), your image is over saturated. Decrease the saturation if this is the case.
After all these corrections, merge the adjustment layers with the image.
6. Sharpening the Image Use Unsharp Mask
Filter>sharpen>unsharp mask
Adjust Radius: Radius controls how wide samples are on each side of an edge. A small radius creates a smaller halo. A general rule of thumb is to use a radius of output resolution divided by 200 (300ppi/200=1.5 radius). This is a starting points but dont vary too much from it.
Amount: Amount adjusts how intense the halos are or how much tonal differences are accentuated. Start at around 200% and work your way up or down as desired.
Threshhold: Low threshold values result in an overall sharper image. Try starting at 3-4. Anything about 10 exclude so many areas it is difficult to see any effect in the image.
7. Converting the image to CMYK Convert the image to CMYK mode and then turn on the Gamut Warning and check to see there are no large gray blotches. The image is now ready to print.
The new colorfringe correction method in Lightroom 4.1 RC2 works fine even for difficult longitudinal CA when used with care. After basic adjustments I normally export my raw file to CS5 for further editing.However found out that even after the Camera Raw update to 6.7 RC my Lightroom colorfringe adjustments were not transfered to CS5. Â : but do we require to buy CS6 with Camera Raw 7 to open the raw image with Lightroom corrections for colorfringes maintained?
I work in the 3d industry and mostly create images for print and web. My problems arises I have been rendering from Maya into linear .exr format as well as some 8bit files (.iff) for masks quick fixes etc. Im working in 16bit and in Adobe (198) color profile withing PS for my comps. I need too collapse the layers down so I can provide the client with Car and background seperate in a photoshop file. The problem is when I open the file I created on a PC the background gradient appears much darker when viewed on a Mac. Â (I also tested doing it on a mac and the same problem occurs in reverse). Â The window transparencies appear much brighter. Howerever the car interior remains relatively the same between mac and pc. Because I have probably been working with files with different gammas applied to them is there some way Photoshop saves this within the layers? I have had to just settle to get it right on mac assuming they will open it on a mac and be able to save a jpeg that will look the same on both pc and mac. This however does not seem to be a good workaround and have never encountered this problem before. I have tried just about every merging method, and have had plently of experience doing this, however this has got me completely stumped. i am aware of the gamma difference between mac 1.8 and PC 2.2.
I've just updated to CS4 and now when I send a photo from LR to PS it always looks too light. I find to get LR and PS looking similar I have to apply an exposure adjustment mask with a gamma correct of 0.86 in PS?
I'm using;
Vista Ultimate 32bit
Photoshop CS4 v11.0.1
Lightroom v2.3
Camera Raw 5.3
Nvidia 9600GT (1GB memory)
My monitors are calibrated and profiled using GretagMacBeth Profile maker 5.05 and an Eye One Pro, the profiles have been applied as system profiles so Vista loads them correctly.
This issue has only come into being since installing CS4.
I had a header for my site saved as a png, and it ended up looking darker in IE8 as opposed to Firefox (where it was the correct color). I heard that this is because of the gamma chunk. Could anyone let me know how to save a png so that it looks the same on all browsers and computers?
I seem to have a colour problem with PSD files. I have tried messing around with the gamma settings for hours, colour profiles and everything else I could think of, but I cannot get rid of the problem.
As you can see the colour problem is only with PSD files. I have also taken a screenshot and compared the colour of the windows taskbar, and the PSD gives me a washed out, less bright look, yet upon export to JPG it looks fine...
The little program ADOBE GAMMA that appears in the Control Panel of Windows after the installation of Photoshop CS2 has now disappeared from CS3.
For whatever reason it has not been included I do not know, but then I find this little colour management to adjust the screen to match colours has been of great importance to people like me - 4 Colour Offset Output on printing ink. This is because the program that comes with the graphic cards do not favour cmyk colours but more on rgb.
Bring back the adobe gamma in the next upgrade so that I do not have to install both CS2 AND CS3 to utilize Adobe Gamma.
The Photoshop installer installs Adobe Gamma control panel (Adobe Gamma.cpl) into the Windows/System folder (Windows Me and 98) or the Program Files/Common Files/Adobe/Calibration (Windows XP and 2000), and it installs the Adobe Gamma loader application (Adobe Gamma Loader.exe) into the Program Files/Common Files/Adobe/Calibration folder. In addition, it installs a shortcut to the Adobe Gamma Loader application in the Windows/Start Menu/Programs/Startup folder (Windows Me and 98) or the Documents and Settings/All Users/Start Menu/Programs/Setup (Windows XP and 2000). As a result, the Adobe Gamma loader application appears in the Start > Programs > Startup menu and starts automatically during Windows startup.
While loading Adobe Gamma.cpl during Windows startup, the Adobe Gamma Loader application applies settings in the Adobe Gamma.cpl file to the system and applies calibration settings you saved for your monitor at the system level.
How do I disable Adobe Gamma in the start file? It pops up every time I turn my computer on. But, I purchased a Spyder 3 Pro calibration device and the instructions tell me I should disable Adobe Gamma otherwise the calibration I perform is 'neutralized' each time I turn the computer on.
I'm doing an online course at lynda.com on Photoshop CS4, and in one part they ask you to get into Adobe Gamma to do color calibration. I can't find it . . . ?? If I go into the control panel, there's no folder for Adobe Gamma. My son suggested looking at C:Program FilesCommon FilesControl Panels, but when I get to Common Files, there's no folder in there called Control Panels.
I'm running Windows XP on an HP Pavilion Media Center computer.
I'm having some problems exporting from After Effects. I believe is to do with gamma. Every time I export my footage from after effects it seems to render darker than the original footage. I've tried all the different settings in the project settings panel including changing the color workspace and checking/unchecking boxes such as blend colors using 1.0 gamma and match legacy after effects QT gamma adjustments. Â The really strange thing is that after I export my project and import it into Premiere it looks perfectly fine. However, if I try importing it in to another editor (such as Sony Vegas) it doesn't look right. The main problem is that I am currently working on a project in which the editor is running Avid, and is finding the same problem. Also, it's not just Quicktime I am finding the problem on. It's every format and codec I am trying such as .avi and a TGA sequence. I've tested it on both arri footage and h264 footage, and double checked that I hadn't added effects such as a curves adjustment etc.
I'm confused about gamma adjustment. I'm getting a book ready to be published by a print on demand company. It involves making a PDF using InDesign which contains photos which I've edited in Photoshop. The company has a list of specifications " to be sure that my PDF prints properly",and one of them says "The gamma of a grayscale image should be between 2.2 and 2.4." I don't know how to interpret this. If I change the gamma of a photo to 2.2 it obviously becomes much lighter, but then when it's saved the new lighter document has a gamma of 1. Â I know I'm not understanding this at all. I've looked all over trying to figure this out. Most references refer to gamma adjustments for monitors, and I get that. I also know that when things are printed they will come out darker because of dot gain.
I have just installed a Spyder 3 Pro on my PC and couldnt find any uninstall for Adobe Gamma. The PC is running XP Pro (32 bit SP3) and I have CS4 and CS2 installed.
To remove Adobe Gamma I took the following steps after I had installed the Spyder software but before calibrating:
1. Removed the shortcuts to Adobe Gamma and Adobe Gamma Loader from the start-up folder.
2. Removed Adobe Gamma Loader.exe and Adobe Gamma.cpl from the folder C:Program FilesCommon FilesAdobeCalibration.
There didnt appear to be any remove feature in the control panel, but the Gamma control panel now doesnt appear in the control panel and the PC reboots without any errors.
i have a samsung LCD monitor, and i'm using photoshop7.0 on it. is it pointless to have Adobe Gamma loaded? since it does not really work for LCD anyway?
what would be the best way to calibrate my LCD to work best with photoshop?
I've moved desks and computers at work and recently re-installed Photoshop CS on my new computer (running Windows XP Professional). I went to run Adobe Gamma and am getting the following error message "To be able to run Adobe Gamma you must log on with Administrator priviledges." Our IT section can't figure out what that is or where to go fix it so I can run Adobe Gamma. I didn't have this problem when I installed the software on my old computer.Â
I can open Adobe Gamma from the Control Panel but cannot get it to run at startup, even though I put a shortcut to the Adobe Gamma Loader in my Programs/Startup folder.
Is there any possibility to install Gamma Loader without installing any other software from Adobe?I would like to adjust display settings but I don't need PS right now.
I saved PNG without checked "Save gamma" but it saves the file with gamma set to 0.4545. I can see it while working with xloadimage: Boot_800x600.png is 800x600 PNG image, color type RGB, 8 bit, file gamma 0.4545
It's too dark (other applications ignore this settings). I'm using GIMP 2.6.11. Newer version is not much possible (as it is unstable in my linux distribution). but if you're sure that newer version resolves this bug, I will gladly upgrade.
why this bug is still active even if it is known from older versions and how can I avoid it?
