photomerge insists upon downsizing my final panorama by a factor of about 9:1. i have spent many hours on the phone with tech support but cannot resolve this problem. i have a new system which seems otherwise to work fine. xp pro on asus p5k-vm mobo, 3ghz dual core intel, 4 gigs ddr2800mhz ram. otherwise, cs3 works fine. i have uninstalled and reinstalled several times, including with a new program download. during the merge process, i can see the individual images being processed at full rez, then at the last second the program opens the new window for the final merged image, and it downsizes from original height of approx. 3100 pixels to 700-1000 pixels or so, both dimensions by a third or so, overall a factor of 9. unuseable.
can "Auto Align Selected Layers Based on Contents" be disabled during photomerge?
=> First, most of times the auto align result is not good
=> it takes time to wait for window to appear, sometimes hangs
=> When all images are jumbled together, it is like making jigsaw puzzle.
Actually I got used to Photoshop CS2 where I disable auto align check box...And I manually create the "mosaic" (not just a flat panorama) from images taken from microscope.
For my work I need high quality pictures. So whenever I get a picture I resize them to 300 dpi if the aren't already 300 dpi. But when I do this the filesize increases to for example 1000px * 1000px..
How can I keep the 300 dpi en resize to the format I want?
I can only download images to my (externally built) web-site through a CMS which only allows images to be uploaded at a max 150 X 150 pixels (jpg format).
When I downsize my images (around 5meg at 300 dpi) prior to upload they appear 'grainy' and pixellated on the web-site. I use Photoshop CS and resample images using the image size dialogue box with the Bicubic setting.
I'm saving with Save to web feature in ImageReady.
I use a lot of stills as part of my video work but I find that downsizing images (I use a Canon EOS 400D) to the video dimensions of 720 x 576 in Photoshop really degrades my images leaving them looking very pixelated. Is there a plug-in I can use other than PS's inbuilt algorithm for this procedure.
I use a lot of stills as part of my video work but I find that downsizing images (I use a Canon EOS 400D) to the video dimensions of 720 x 576 in Photoshop really degrades my images leaving them looking very pixelated. Is there a plug-in I can use other than PS's inbuilt algorithm for this procedure.
I have several 35mm images scanned at 8000ppi and are typically around 450Mb (a few are 500+).
The Problem - to get these onto 1 or more of the various sites on the net I need to reduce the filesize (i.e. the Mb count) (e.g. 1 site has limits around the 30Mb mark) B U T ALSO RETAIN the PIXEL count in order to produce the best possible print.
While I can save as a JPEG at something less than 100%, which does this, I am not all that keen in potentially losing some quality.
I have photoshop cs4 and I cannot find the Auto smart fix, auto levels, and auto contrast nor the adjustment for each that I had with photoshop elements.
I am new to Illustrator, and am trained in Photoshop. I'm working with a printer that wants a vector based AI file, so I'm trying my hand at Illustrator. I have an AI, vector based, logo that I'm trying to fit onto a business card template. The logo is primarily text, with a circle surrounding one of the letters. The circle has a stroke that narrows on the right hand side to a tiny sliver. I am selecting all three layers (the top line of text, bottom line of text, and the surrounding circle), holding down the shift key to preserve the proportions, and grabbing the little box in the bottom corner to shrink the whole selection. As I make the selection smaller, the surrounding circle around one of the letters becomes fatter, changing the look of the logo. How do I correctly make the logo smaller, without converting it to a PDF or JPEG?
I was using these tool on a lot of images, because they often seemed to vastly improve them, making the colors pop on otherwise somewhat dull ones, and getting rid of unwanted color casts..
Later though I noticed that it is often at the cost of burning out hightlights in some areas beyond salvation.I also find shadow /highlight sometimes does this also.
Then I tried to protect some small areas with a mask before proceeding, but it seems that I can't find information on just painting a mask, but only videos with much more complex adjustment such as the Russel Crow or Lynda ones with maintaing hair detail while superimposing images, which is way beyond what I need in these cases.
If I try the wand to select and inverse I get unnatural looking divisions. Is it a matter of feathering to the right extent?
I have just moved from 7.0 to CS3 (and PC to Mac) and am currently trying to get to grips with the new features! Once which I love is the auto-align and auto-blend feature(s). My question is, is there any way to control how these features work? I have seen on some web sites people talk about 'fuzziness' sliders where you can control that if an object (pixels) appear in X% of the photos they should/shouldn't be included in the final image but I cannot find these.
My intention is to use these features to take photos of monuments and have the people who are moving about removed from the final image (I guess it's the auto-align that would do this.) I tried a test and took a number of photos at home but I kept moving one object around (a pen.) The pen appears in all the images but in a different location so it always appears in the final image. When I tried auto-align with a stack that included one image without the pen, the pen was removed from the final image. Given the first scenario (i.e. the object is in all the images but in a different location) is there any way of automatically removing it using auto-align or would this have to be a manual process? In the real world, it would be possible to take a photo of a monument with people in different locations but it would be much harder (or take a long time) to take one where at least one person was not in all the photos (there's always someone loitering.)
Yes, I'm probably the only person on the planet that wants this, but I liked how the Auto Tone auto adjusted the Exposure slider (ONLY!) and left all the other sliders at zero in the Lightroom 4 beta.
Is there a way to write a preset that returns that behavior?
I took a series of photos (9 shot vertically) of the lobby of AKL. I made adjustments in Bridge (3.0.0.464) then choose Photomerge through tools in Bridge to process the pano in CS4 (11.0). The images were processed for the natural light. Follow the link to see what CS4 came up with. The files were .dng processed with CS3. I have made many other photomerges using this combo, but this is first to achieve this type of result. In CS4, I used the vignette and distortion options.
I'm using Photoshop on Vista 32. When I try to do a photomerge either from PS or Bridge, it does its stuff, then closes everything immediately. Reboots / changed options make no difference.
When i run a Photomerge (using jpegs) i have even tried using the sample jpegs that come with the software of the SF skyline.
I select my images, and it runs the usual sequence of starting the layers and merging then when it ends its just dissappears looking like the software has just opend with nothing happening.
Ive tried every combination to make them work and nothing. i never get to see any results.
I am using CS4, and ive also tried in CS3 again which is still installed on my partition. and its not working in that either. it used to work with no problems bit not now.
Just created a panorama out of 4 jpegs (together about 33MB) and saved it as jpeg. Now I want to create another panorama out of 10 jpegs (together about 73MB), it worked fine, but I can't save it in jpg format. CS3 only offers .psb, raw or tif.
I tried 4 times consequently to stitch 4 images in Photomerge activated from Bridge - with same settings (auto and defaults i.e. blending images on, vignette removal off, distortion correction off). I was surprised of the result because each time I tried PS generated different panorama. Just to make sure I thoroughly checked if the stitch settings were really the same - they were... Am I missing something essential?
When I click file automate - photo merge, I get an error message popup saying "Photoshop CS5.1 has stopped working." with options to check on internet for solution or close program. No error codes!
I reloaded my Photoshop to my C: drive about a week ago, but everything else seem to be working as it is supposed to. I have also installed a wacom pro, but I can't see where this would affect it.
When I have two or more photos open and I want to move them around, everytime I drag one over the other it becomes transparent. This transparency seems to happen once I drag the photo over the ruler but I could be wrong. Once I release the mouse button the two merge into one photo. I believe this has something to do with the photo merge feature. Can I turn this off?
I've seen recent posts about Photo merge crashing, I tried all the workarounds and remedies to no success. I run as Admin and still crashes, and only Photo merge is causing to crash. All other presets and automates are working just fine. I've deleted all Temp files and App Data, still nothing.
My stats are:
Windows 7 Professional Intel i7 vPro (2860Qm @ 2.5GHz) 16GB Ram Nvidia Quadro 2000M (lastest drivers, 266.96) Scratch disk is 200GB and I'm using about 9GB of Ram
So I don't think it's my computer that's the problem, but either the java script file for the automate or possible update?
Photoshop CS5 crashes when I try to use photo merge. Is there anything I can do so this wont happen?? Now I can't make panorama pictures. It's on my laptop it doesn't work. Samsung laptop with Windows 7. It works on my stationary computer with Windows Vista. I have the same version of PS CS5 on both computers.
The Photomerge in Photoshop CS4E is a fantastic tool when it gets it right, but what can you do when it doesn't? I've got a bunch of 9 images (in a "Noughts and Crosses" or "Tic Tac Toe" layout), all with 50% overlap, but a lot of fairly blank areas - this can't be avoided, they are nautical charts. When I do Auto Photomerge on these, a couple of the images get put in the wrong place. Is there a way to position the images in their approximate place, then get Photoshop to finish the job automatically?
cs3 had this option when creating a photomerge that made it so much easier to combine several photos when cs3 got lost in trying to merge.
I looked and looked in cs4 for the interactive command, so much simpler than grabbing the eraser and opacity, but I could not find the interactive addition for photomerge. Has it been moved or what ? IIRC in cs3 it was interactive from bridge..
When using the Photomerge tool in CS3 to do merges of 10+ images (10MP RAW), the process almost always stops at the blending step. Images are laid out properly, but the edges are not blended. Is there a particular reason for this? System has 3GB RAM, running XP (SP3).
Note that for smaller merges, the process completes fine.
I'd also be curious to know if the Photomerge facility has been improved in CS4. It works well enough, but on a dual-core 2GHZ system, it still can take 5 minutes to do an 8 image photomerge.
I have read and understood the Photomerge tool (and tried the process with the sample images that are in CS2). All this seems to be fine except for a couple of things...
1. To achieve 180 degrees I am going to need more than 3 images right? (overlapping each image by 15%-40%).
a. Can Photomerge in CS2 work with more than 3 images, or is 3 the maximum??
If 3 is the maximum, then it wouldn't be difficult to just increase the canvas width and add on? Or not? Or do 2 sets of 3 then hand stitch those together? What is the best process for achieving 180??
Also, I like to shoot just before sunset,usually. If I did a 180, say with the sun setting in the right hand side of the image, then panned to the left snapping as I go, I am obviously going to get different gradients of blue in the sky, (lighter sky to the right, a darker sky to the left)
Should I shoot in Manual or Aperture?
How will I get the tones in the sky to be seemless?. As long as I overlap by 15% - 40% all should be good?
What is the best process for achieving equal exposure in all shots?
My new instal of CS3 does not have FILE|Automate|Photomerge showing as an option. It did previously. It also lacks the icon to shift to Bridge. When I use the File command to start Bridge I get an error message about missing a JAVA script.
When I start Bridge (which appears to work) and try to send files to CS3 for Photomerge, it tells me that CS3 busy and asks if I want to queue up the work (even if CS3 is open).
This has happened a number of times now, both in CS3 and CS4. When I run the process as I normally do for a motomerge, the process goes along swimmingly until the output stage where the image is closed and nothing is left for me. I don't close the image and I have no idea why it does.
I have used photomerge successfully before, so Im unsure of what the problem is.
I have done a photomerge in PS CS6 of two birds in flight as the wings are clipped. The images merge nicely but the problem is that the blurred bird has been placed on top of the sharp bird, i.e. the top layer (bird with blurred eye) is blocking the bottom sharp bird. I have clicked and dragged the bottom layer to the higher position on the layers panel but the images do not swap positions.
