im new in .EPS format... i created an AD using photoshop and the magazine company wants me to save the file in DCS2 format @ 300 dpi (.EPS extension), with color composite
but when i save the file, it only gives me 72dpi resolution resolution option...
do i need adobe illustrator to do this?
I have a .psp image file that the information shows the resolution as 300dpi. When I try to save it as a .png file, the resolution changes to 118dpi. It doesn't matter if I just do a Save As or File > Save for Office > Professional Printing with 300dpi, the outcome is the same.
View 14 Replies View RelatedWhat's the best way to pre-build graphic elements and save them to be used in a composite? This is what I've done so far: used a color generator on the timeline then added the wipe effect. Within the wipe effect I created as series of shapes (which turned out to be animated which I didn't want). What I want to to do is use just 1 still frame of this graphic with its matte in a composite but I'm not sure how to get that into my connect fx or action. I tried saving that wipe effect but once in connect fx I can't access the wipes. Can I save the wipe effect as a gmask?
View 7 Replies View RelatedI have PhotoShop 4, unfortunately. When I saved my pictures at 300 dpi inRGB and imported them into a PDF program called Serif, Serif said they were 175 dpi. I saved them in CMYK in PSD and Serif said they were 200 dpi. I want to print the artwork in a book and would like to send them to the printer as 300 dpi.
View 15 Replies View RelatedI have always used PS to edit my raw images. I am now using elements. I noticed that when I converted all my DNG files to JPS it saved them at 240 dpi is there anyway to change them?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a file created @100DPI (Photoshop Elements 4.0). How can I change it to 300DPI?
View 1 Replies View RelatedPhotoshop CS6 - How to export form Camera Raw to Jpeg of 300dpi?
View 13 Replies View RelatedI have 72dpi image at 18in. I need to go to print. Should I resize to 300dpi at around 4in or just scale down the image? It will go on a business card so I really have enough pixels because it's not very big, just not sure best resize method.
View 9 Replies View RelatedHow to change the import resolution in photoshop to 300dpi or higher? At the moment it is set at a default of 240.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI am creating an image in photoshop that a printer is going to use to make a postcard to advertise my website. He needs it in 300dpi resolution in order for it to print correctly. I have already created the vector image that is in 300dpi res, but need to add photos to the image. He said that everything needs to be in 300dpi resolution, including the photos that I add to the image.
I already have one photo that is in jpeg format that is at 300dpi, but I did not create that. I scanned in a photo at 300dpi as a tif file, and would like to convert it to jpeg while preserving its 300dpi resolution. I have tried everything in Photoshop that I know (which is not all that much) to try to accomplish this task, but to no avail.
I have images from old photographs and drawings that I want to enlarge to A3 sent files to printers and they are only 150dpi Printer ran off 13 proofs (out of 125) for me only 6 of a quality I can just about get away with using...Is there anyway I can increase DPI on images to achieve 300dpi to give me a clear print
View 8 Replies View Relatedbest way to stack 2d and 3d items together in the same document, and maximize the editibility...
I'm working on a digital room setting, and I have part of the room in 3d and part in 2d. So, for example, the walls, ceiling, floor, table, chairs and corner hutch are 3d, but the regular hutch and buffet server are in 2d.
- The table and chairs need to be in the foreground
- The regular hutch and server are behind the table and chairs
- The corner hutch needs to be behind all other pieces of furniture
So, you may be catching on by now to my little dilemna... I want all the 3D items to have the same lighting and reflect off one another, however, I need the 2d layers to somehow fit "inbetween" the 3d objects. The simple question is, how can this be done? Is there a way to mask the foreground 3D objects so that they appear to be in from of the 2D objects? My only current solution is this:
- Move the whole 3D layer (the scene layer) all the way to the back
- Make the final decision on the position of the table and chairs
- Hide all other meshes in the scene besides the table and chairs
- Render, so the edges are clean
- Load the newly rendered 3D layer as a selection (which loads the table and chairs only)
- Either create a new layer from the selection of the rendered 3D layer, or mask the 3D layer so that the table and chairs appear to be in the foreground
The method above means I can no longer edit/reposition/scale the 3D at all.
How do I do a composite snapshot using Photoshop CS5. I know it can be done in CS6 using Control + shift + alt + E. I am not having any luck using those shortcuts in CS5.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI want to put this corvette in that parking garage.
What kind of tips can I have to make this look REAL.
When I paste the car in the garage it obviously doesnt match SIZE wise.
Can I just change the size of the car without affecting the background?
How about shadowing?
I've looked but maybe don't understand this...
I've got photos from the web and need to convert them to 300dpi for a book.
1) What do I need to be concerned with here and 2) how do I do this?
I'm trying to create a clone composite from a tutorial in a magazine using Photoshop CS. When I create the layer for each image, the tutorial says the layer box should be black whereas mine is white. I have tried various settings inclding the changing the two overlapping black/white squares on the left handside and cannot find any way to make the layer box black.
View 2 Replies View RelatedOnce you create a composite layer at the top of your layer stack w. Option-click on "Merge Visible" in the Layer Panel Menu, is that new layer the only layer that now shows (represents) the image? For instance, if another adjustment layer is added below it, and the Background layer is the only image layer, will the effect of that adjustment be visible? Or do I need to delete the composite layer and create a new one to include the new adjustment layer?
The reason I ask has to do with an illustration (below) I came across from one of Mark Johnson's old NAPP tutorials (Total Control Glowing Montage). In his tutorial "Layer 1" was created as a composite layer of the Background Layer and "Levels 1" which had a Smart Filter applied to it. Then the two "Levels 1" copy layers were added last to fine-tune the effect of the Levels 1 adjustment. Notice they are BELOW the composite layer.
How do I do a composite snapshot using Photoshop CS5. I know it can be done using CS6, but am not having any luck using Control + shift + alt + E?
View 1 Replies View Relatedcs3 has started to print very green since i ticked a checkbox and now i cant find the box to change back. printing the same photo in other applications is fine so its not the printer but a photoshop setting.
which is the exact box that i changed from composite rgb to composite cmyk ( I remember that box on the right that said Text as black.
But where is this from? It says its from Adobe InDesign.
But I dont have In Design!
I have checked Adobe Bridge but there is no printing and colour part in there.
Anyone seen this in photoshop before?
I would like to create an image made of several gif ones,
How can i do it?
Why when I print 8.5x11 to PNG at 300dpi (paper size 2550x3300) the actual image dim’s are 34.38”x26.56”? If I print with the paper size at 612x792 (72dpi) the image will be 8.5x11 but look like poop.
how can I print 8.5x11 to PNG at 300dpi and the image dim's be 8.5x11?
Have a question regarding the preparation of a TIFF image for printing. I would like to take the image and use it as the background for a printed flyer I want to mass-produce.
Currently the properties of the image are:
pixel dimensions: 1600 × 790 pixels
print size: 564.44 × 278.69 millimetres
resolution: 72 x 72 ppi
colour space: RGB Colour
file size: 3.8MB
file type: TIFF
size in memory: 13.2 MB
number of pixels: 1264000
number of layers: 1
I have been told I need to provide an image at least 300 x 300 dpi in order for it to be printed at a decent resolution.
My flyer is going to be around 100mm x 200mm and will be printed on both sides. I will be placing text over the image too. I have the text ready so I just need to work out how to get the background image ready.
My question is, how do I get the image into a format which is acceptable for printing?
I'm new to Lightroom so I'm used to being able to simply adjust the dpi of my photos from 300 to 72 (or whatever I need it to be). I can't seem to locate a similar feature in Lightroom. Am I missing something here? How can I change my large 300dpi files into smaller 72dpi?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI'm making a blurb book and they say I need a photo at 300 dpi - how do I do that?
View 2 Replies View Relatedworkflow problem when dealing with a composite, selection and background layer. My normal workflow is to start of in LR4, and if need be do an "edit in, CS6". I am relatively new to CS6, so bear with me.
I have some portraits I want to put different backgrounds on. I am using Matt Kloskowski's Layers book and Composites books written for CS5. I also have Martin Evening's book on CS6 and the workflow for doing a composite is pretty much the same. The catch is that none of them start off in LR with the original photo. They all describe the following basic workflow pattern:
1. Bring up the main photo in CS using "edit in CS6"
2. Change the photo from a background layer to a regular layer
3. Make a selection.
4. Make a layer mask
5. Refine the edge
6. open the background photo you want to place the selection in (steps 4 and 5 are sometimes reversed so you are refining the edge on the new background)
7. copy and paste the original photo onto the new background
8. Refine the edge if not already done
9. Save and exit back to LR with the composite
If I follow this procedure I run into a couple of problems:
1. My backgrounds are in a separate folder on my computer and not cataloged in LR. So, if I open them in photoshop and paste the original photo onto that image, LR will not know that I want to take the new composite back to the original folder along with the portrait. If I go to save the image, CS want to take the composite back to the folder on my computer where I got the background from. I tried playing around and tried renaming the composite similar to the naming convention I use for my photos in LR and then importing it into that folder after I have saved it in the background folder. This had some unintended consequences. First, I had trouble renaming the composite photo. For some reason Windows kept plugging in an old photo file name from one of my photos taken two years ago. After I discovered that I could work around it. But after the first composite finally got into LR, when I tried to do it again, the import button on the left side of my LR went dark and I couldn't import the second composite photo I was working on. This could have been a coincident and unconnected LR glitch, but I have never had that problem before.
So...I was thinking of modifying the workflow to the following:
1. Bring up the main photo in CS using "edit in CS6"
2. Change the photo from a background layer to a regular layer
3. Make a selection.
4. Make a layer mask
5. Refine the edge
6. open the background photo you want to place the selection in
7. copy and paste the new BACKGROUND onto the original photo
8. Move or make the new background layer THE "Background" layer
10. Refine the edge
11. Save and exit back to LR with the composite
I am envisioning this will ensure that my composite will wind up back in LR because it is still keeping track of the original photo which now has gotten the new background, regardless of what the file name of the new background was.
I'm moving pictures of people onto a backround of flowers and plants. I've used the magic wand and polygonal lasso to get the people on to the backround. That works fine, except the backround near the persons hair shows up as a halo or line around them or I see the backround between the starnds of hair.
How do I have the person show up on the backround without lines or the backround from where I moved the person from. I hope this makes sense., I'm using CS4
I am trying to find a tutorial about making a composite image of a skier flying through the air. I shot at 9 frames per second and want to show all of them on a single frame. Can anyone point me to somewhere that would help get me started on this kinda thing?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI need to make an 11x14 composite page for a school. I am shooting photos of all of the students and they want an 11x14 with the school name and all of the students faces in ovals . I would need about 200 ovals, one for each student.
way to do this? Layers? Masks?
making a composite image of a skier flying through the air. I shot at 9 frames per second and want to show all of them on a single frame.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI get the message "Generating Full Resolution Composite" when I try and save even a relatively average (500MB) file. The hard drive light is lit solid and after about 2-4min, it starts saving the image.
I have tried unchecking "Maximize Compatibility",
I have CS2 - is there a way in CS2 (or CS3) to stop the "Generating Full Resolution Composite" message? I don't care about preview icons/thumbnails at all.
How do I change a batch of pictures to 300 dpi? I am writng my first book and I need to change more than 100 pictures to 300 dpi.
View 7 Replies View Related