Here in the office we have CS4, CS5, and CS6. CS4 and CS6 work fine but in CS5, If we set an image resolution then crop the image it will not keep the resolution we set.
We have tried the resample image on and off. We have tried it with and without a background and nothing seems to work. Is there is special setting in CS5? As I said no issues with 4 & 6.
I have a large number of sporting photos (both RAW and JPG versions) that need to be cropped to zoom in on player and eventually saved as JPEGs on CD, that can later be printed as 8 X10's by player parents.
When I crop the jpeg (setting 8 X 10 and resolution not filled in) I get a resolution around 150 , too low for printing. I know if I fill in resolution too , PS will use Resample Image and but I will get a somewhat degraded picture at 8 X 10.
Is there a way to use the RAW version of the photos, (since they are not compressed), be able to crop and still save at a printable resolution, without using Resample.
i have a client who needs a big image (2000x2830) resizing to 595x842 and saving to a .pdf file and still keeping its high quality resolution even when its zoomed in on.
So far i have resized the image (just using IMAGE-IMAGE SIZE and put in the numbers 595x842) but it has lost its quality when zoomed in although it does look good at 100% but i need it to look good even at 500-600%.
noticed that in CS6 is u crop to 72dpi there is way to much sharpening applied to the image as compared to CS5. This is a real pain in the ass especially for a web developer.
View 9 Replies View Relatedi tried to crop a circle of 55mm diameter out from a photo of 5mp resolution. however, the resulting resolution was very poor ( less than 200px X 1xx px ). how do i retain the resolution without sacrificing loss in quality/resolution? i used the marquee tool to make the selection ( holding shift to make it full circle ).
View 4 Replies View RelatedWhat am I doing wrong? Whenever I try to crop my image (72 ppi), the resolution changes to something much higher and then I end up with a very tiny picture. I've tried cropping the image as a .psd and as a .jpg and it doesn't seem to matter.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am creating a 5-page instruction sheet in Pagemaker 6.5 and have been given 26 digital camera photos to illustrate it. They are 72 ppi RGB jpegs, size is 31.5 x 23.6 inches (2272 x 1704). I'm using PS 6 to color-correct, crop and resize them.
The end product will be a pdf which will be made available on a website for students to download and print on their own inkjet printers, so I want them to be higher-res than 72.
Each photo needs to be cropped and reduced to around 2 x 1.5 inches. I thought I could use the crop tool to determine my target dimensions and resolution (200 PPI). I think that resamples them though, and the result has been rather fuzzy, printing the pdf on both a Docucolor and a cheapo inkjet. (My problem may also be in the Acrobat Distiller job options.)
When I change the resolution in the image size box (no resampling) and then crop it, it turns into something like an 1100 ppi image. Is that right?.
I be saving them as TIFFs or JPGs? When I tried saving as TIFFS, they looked ghastly on my monitor (in the Pagemaker file, that is).
I am about to get a film scanner I have on order, to scan in 35mm negatives.
When scanning film frames, I like the idea of setting the scan area marquee, at the scanning stage, so that it scans slightly beyond the film frame edges, so that I can carefully crop to the edge of the film frame later, in Photoshop CS6, rather than setting it, at the scanning stage, and then later, when examining the film frame in CS6, maybe discovering that I have not scanned to the edge of the film frame quite enough, as I can easily zoom right into the image when in CS6, to carefully examine where the film frame edges are.
I may be reducing the resolution of the image. For example, say I scan a film frame in at 3600 ppi, and later crop the image slightly in CS6 in order to precisely trim off any slight amount of black around the film frame edges. By cropping the film frame like this in CS6, am I reducing the image resolution of the film frame to lower than 3600ppi? As I best understand it, I do not think post-cropping like this results in any reduction in image resolution.
I realize the nature of my question maybe asking the impossible, but I have a low res image I downloaded from the internet, placed in an InDesign page, blew it up and printed it out. I was going for the distressed look that it has, it looks ok when I print it out considering it's low res and I blew it up fairly large. However, it's a little too pixelated to look professional when printed. Are they any tricks or things I can do to make it look higher res for print. I've attached the image as well as a screenshot of the InDesign file so you can see it in context.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am a Photoshop newbie and I have a series of graphics (all 72dpi from a website) that I would like to print in 300dpi. Is it possible to take a 72dpi .jpeg or .gif file and easily convert it to a higher resolution printable graphic? If Photoshop can't do it, is there any type of program that can?
View 1 Replies View Relatedi have some big .jpgs with low resolution say 10x10 inch at 72dpi.
is it possible for me to convert it to 2x2 inch at 300dpi?
I'm trying to create a high resolution version of a low resolution texture used in a game. I've found a pattern that I think is acceptable, from a real image.Now the question is this: how can I colorize the large image to that it is as resemblant as possible to the original one? I've tryed a simple colorize, but the result is not so good...
Original texture:
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The image to be colorized:
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Is there an easy way to level out a horizon? PaintSHop Pro has a feature where you put a line on something in your photo that is slanted b crops it) accordingly. I seem to remember PS has this feature--but I can't find it.
View 6 Replies View RelatedWorking in raw, I have made changes to exposurre etc. when I save to jpeg they go lighter. I have looked in the colour settings which are set the same as the camera at sRGB but not sure if I a missing something.
I have recently upgraded from CS4 to CS6, wasn't a problem in CS4, I have looked at the settings in both to try to get them the same but nothing is working.
I use rectangle marquee to do this. Only thing, --unlike the crop tool--if has no handles if you don't drag perfectly on the first crack.
Is there a way (crop tool?) -- to keep no uprez or downrez, but just crop and get handles?
i have a png picture with no ground 256 x 256
i tried to make dimensions 16x16 and keeping the bg transparent with ImageReady, and did save optimized as > then saved it png but the resolution was very bad, and the background was white not transparent.
any suggesstions?
This is an interesting question. As most of your probably know, Filebrowser is kind of an app with an app. You can open a RAW camera file and set all the parameters for conversion, then update the file without opening it by choosing the alt (PC) or option (Mac) key. This changes the convert box to update.
A friend of mine, also a photographer, applied color corrections to an entire wedding using Filebrowser and updating his RAW files. He then burned a DVD of the RAW files and sent it to his lab. They converted his files and posted a web gallery. He then noticed that the files were horrible! All the conversion settings were not retained with the RAW files.
I have always assumed that any updated conversion information was stored in the EXIF information of the RAW file. Now I'm beginning to wonder if it's stored in the Filebrowser cache or meta information. If this is the case, then which files need to be kept with the RAW files when you transfer them to another computer? Can this be accomplished?
I want to backup my "Photoshop Elements 3.0" Settings and "My Catalog".....
I am using Windows XP SP2.......
But what I don't want to do is to copy my all photographs (which are in the organizer and tagged and are about 7 GB in Size) to removable media..........As I have them on a separate Drive and they are Safe......
which Files do I have to save to Keep my existing settings.......in my new windows........
using PS 5 But I do a lot of printing onto paper that is not 8 1/2 x 11. So I go into Document Setup/ Print Setup and specify my paper size and all is well. But the next time I want to print the image I have to go in and do it all over again. Isn't there some way of making my print size stick?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm a programmer and used to using version control software for storing source code. The version control software running on a server is used to keep tracking of every single change (history) that is done to files, provides a repository for multiple users to work from and someways a backup.
View 9 Replies View Relatedwhen you do a FILE > OPEN and the image comes up, it is contained in the DOCUMENT WINDOW, no?
I noticed that if you press CTRL and + you zoom in, and CTL and - then you zoom out. But the document window seems to ignore the palettes on the right hand side of the application.
Is there any way to make Photoshop not extend the document window so that it resides partially behind the palettes?
I notice that if you press CTRL + ALT and + then you zoom in WITHOUT modifying your document window (same for CTRL + ALT and -) , but I cannot see how to remap CTRL and + to what CTRL+ALT and + does.
This is most likely a stupid question but it has had me stumped for a while... Every time I close an image the eyedropper tool pops back to the top. What do I have to do to keep the measure tool on top?
View 1 Replies View RelatedUsing CS4, I want to keep a logo (rasterized) with its caption (text) on the SAME LAYER.... I know I can LINK the 2 layers, so if one moves the other moves too, but how do I combine them without rasterizing the text?
View 12 Replies View RelatedI'm using Photoshop CS6 on Windows 7 with a dual monitor setup. In a prior version, it was the case that multiple open photos could stay in the application frame, such that moving the frame would move all open photos with it, but without using tabs/partitions, which I dislike. Is there no longer a way to configure it this way? I've experimented with "Enable Floating Document Window Docking" and "Open Documents as Tabs", but they aren't doing the trick.
I'm often juggling several applications, and regularly find it convenient to move things from one monitor to the other based on what specific task I'm doing. I know tabs are one "solution", but are inefficient and impractical in my experience. The images I work with typically start very large and get resized/cropped during editing for use in email and the web. Consequently, I have open a mix of very large and small pictures, some portrait and some landscape. Using tabs or multi-up partitions, I can either view only the image I'm working on or some fixed number of images in a fixed (though adjustable) layout. In the latter case, I can usually only see a small portion of the large photos unless I manually resize them based on the current partition size, which changes based on what else I'm currently working on. If I choose to have one "Fit on screen", it's resized based on the full screen size, not the partition the image is in, so again I'm only able to see a portion of a large image. Smaller pictures end up with wasted space within their partitions.
This is my original drawing in Photoshop CS5 for Windows:My goal is to quickly center two objects while keeping one of them (blue rectangle in my example) in place:
If I follow the standard procedure (select both objects, align vertical and horizontal centers), both objects are moved to the center of the drawing:So the blue square has lost it's original position which is not good.
I was under the impression that the rulers across the top and bottom of the canvas were measuring the length and width of the window at the given resolution.
However, this can't be the case, because I notice that when I crop a photo down from a width of 70 to a width of 20 on the ruler, when the crop finishes, the width of the canvas is back to looking like 70, so the ruler is not absolute, but some kind of relative measure? And is there a way to get an absolute ruler either of any unit?
Photoshop is new to me. I like to paint locomotives for a game, but am wondering how to change the colors from blue to black and keep all the shading and door details. When I use the paint brush I can never seem to get the side panels into the correct color without losing a lot of detail.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI need to import some vector EPS barcodes into PS7 and then export the document as a PDF but keep the type and the barcodes as vector information. How can I do this?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI need to use the radial blur on numerous layers with the same preset for zoom location. Once photoshop is closed, I have to relocate the zoom center. I've tried making a action to store the setting, a smart filter, and even using scriptlistener, but nothing will hole the zoom location. I doubt there is anything I can do, but Adobe should fix this bug or flaw.
View 3 Replies View RelatedCan anyone teach/help me to remove the foreground. But once i remove the foreground then i have to see the background.
for example see the attached picture.I want to remove the man who is in sitting.once i remove i have to see the clounds. Please teach me this in step by step as im new to photoshop cs2 v 9.0
I love taking landscape photos and i am interested in turning them into black and white images. No problem with that bit, i then want to make the black and white more intense, i realise this will be difficult with the black but i want the white to be, i don't know slightly more silver i suppose, more haunting......am i making sense, lol.
I would also like to keep some color from the original image, maybe have a tree with just a faint coloring from the original or a stream with just a hint of the original blue.
I don't know how to transfer the original color to the black and white copy, is it done with a mask?.