I've got Photoshop CS3 and would like to "Auto Correct" some 3000 photos.
The only way I know of how to auto correct something is to manually click
Image>Adjustments>Auto Levels, Auto Colors, and Auto Curves.
Is there some way that I can have Photoshop completely Auto Correct a batch of photos?
I clicked on the auto color correction from the level because the picture was pink. I looked at the shadod clip .50 , highlight clip .50 and closed it when It changed the picture and it's better now but Can I still use the arrow from red, blue and green from the level to get better pictures?
View 4 Replies View RelatedIs there a way to make Adaptive wide angle filter NOT applying default correction? I cannot seem to use the filter because upon loading it always "correct" my photo in a way that I don't want to no matter whant option I choose.
As you can see, the auto correct image is softer and not as pleasant. I just want to be able to adjust it to the way I want. It is even worst with Panorama.
I want to make a script-fu with the White Balance auto correction(Colors->Auto->White Balance).I couldn't find any procedure/plug-in in the procedure browser that do that.
How to call this procedure? or, it there a way to do it manually?
I have photoshop cs4 and I cannot find the Auto smart fix, auto levels, and auto contrast nor the adjustment for each that I had with photoshop elements.
View 10 Replies View RelatedI was using these tool on a lot of images, because they often seemed to vastly improve them, making the colors pop on otherwise somewhat dull ones, and getting rid of unwanted color casts..
Later though I noticed that it is often at the cost of burning out hightlights in some areas beyond salvation.I also find shadow /highlight sometimes does this also.
Then I tried to protect some small areas with a mask before proceeding, but it seems that I can't find information on just painting a mask, but only videos with much more complex adjustment such as the Russel Crow or Lynda ones with maintaing hair detail while superimposing images, which is way beyond what I need in these cases.
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If I try the wand to select and inverse I get unnatural looking divisions. Is it a matter of feathering to the right extent?Â
I have just moved from 7.0 to CS3 (and PC to Mac) and am currently trying to get to grips with the new features! Once which I love is the auto-align and auto-blend feature(s). My question is, is there any way to control how these features work? I have seen on some web sites people talk about 'fuzziness' sliders where you can control that if an object (pixels) appear in X% of the photos they should/shouldn't be included in the final image but I cannot find these.
My intention is to use these features to take photos of monuments and have the people who are moving about removed from the final image (I guess it's the auto-align that would do this.) I tried a test and took a number of photos at home but I kept moving one object around (a pen.) The pen appears in all the images but in a different location so it always appears in the final image. When I tried auto-align with a stack that included one image without the pen, the pen was removed from the final image. Given the first scenario (i.e. the object is in all the images but in a different location) is there any way of automatically removing it using auto-align or would this have to be a manual process? In the real world, it would be possible to take a photo of a monument with people in different locations but it would be much harder (or take a long time) to take one where at least one person was not in all the photos (there's always someone loitering.)
Yes, I'm probably the only person on the planet that wants this, but I liked how the Auto Tone auto adjusted the Exposure slider (ONLY!) and left all the other sliders at zero in the Lightroom 4 beta.
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Is there a way to write a preset that returns that behavior?
Have Photoshop CC updated, Go Pro not an option under "Lens Correction", how do I add.
View 7 Replies View Relatedwhen you move it to PS he has you use the curves panel to color correct. Of course that entails using the black eye dropper and clicking on the blackest/darkest area of the photo, similar for the white dropper, and after a nice little trick to find the right spot......... an area for the midtone dropper.Â
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The thing is I've noticed that once I make that first click with the black dropper, that nice contrast I had from ACR adjustments goes out the window and the photo brightens up a lot. The final steps of putting 3 points on the curve and dropping the blacks end and raising the whites end brings it back a bit but I was thinking isn't setting the WB with the dropper in ACR already color correcting?Â
Even at the end of the book when he goes through his actual workflow using a provided .dng example he does all the ACR stuff and then moves to PS and uses the curves panel.
I want to display photos shot as JPG from a DSLR on a TV. When played on the TV they seem dark and lots of detail gets lost. How to make my images look good on a LCD TV? I am pretty new to Photoshop, would I just play with the Levels?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI am interested in which method to use to correct color. I try using curves and end up with a blown color look. Then I go into Levels and change what I did in curves.
View 4 Replies View Relatedafter applying gamma correction on an image , would that affect its looking / view ? I tried to apply gamma correction 0.45 and it gives me good results on windows OS . I am not sure that this is the right thing to do ?
How can I know that after applying image enhacement ( gamma correction , resample , etc ) would produce a better image quality ? is there any software /tool that I can know that the image after applying the enhancement is better than before ?
I have multiple scans of color markups that need to be corrected before we print them. Is there any way to save my corrections that I made to one so that I can just apply it to all of them? Its just time consuming have to go through and make all the same changes over and over again.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI don't know why I can't change my Photoshop to Black either in foreground, or background color. I set it to 00000, but it shows dark green color.
View 7 Replies View RelatedIn PS 7.0. I have a brochure done by a printing company & I have the source photoshop files. I am creating a new piece, but I would like the brochure's background color to match the background of the new piece.I have took the background file of the brochure provided by the printer & placed it on the new piece. The new piece has been sent out to a different printer. It's stock is going to be 18PT.C1S with high-gloss film lamination.They have printed a proof & realized the background colors do not match. The brochure has more yellow in it. Is there a way I can color correct the file so I don't have to pay the extra for the printer to do it? Do I just add more yellow with one of the adjustment layers?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am working with a photo of a group of people shot in front of windows. The windows are white hot. What's the best way to bring the brightness down without affecting the contrast - ie, making it newspaper gray?
I have CS2, and not dealing with a camera that has RAW.
I training myself photo retouching and I am tring to understand how to do colour correction correctly for output in printing press. So I am intrested in CMYK settings
I have two quections
1)
How i understand so far it is important to find in a photo you are working to correct the shadows, mid, and highlight,(photoshop cs book) it said to use the threhold to find the shadows and highlight, but is say much about midtones. Anyone know any trick or tip to find out the midtones? what do you look in a photo to find it?
2)
How find the correct balance in colour so when it go to printing press is not too light or too dark?
I have taken some photos of text books in a library, the photos aren't the best quality because I was in a hurry and the library rules forbid photos being taken so most of them are not straight, a bit blury or taken at the wrong angle (star wars film intro text style!!).
I needed to convert these jpegs to doc format or PDF but since the texts shown in the photos are not perfectly straight or clear how to get the texts in the photos straight and clear enough to be able to convert them correctly to .doc or pdf formats.
I find that I almost always use Lens Correction.
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Add an option to Always Use Lens Correction.
I am taking photos of parts for a client. I've got a pretty good method down with correcting the originals to achieve the results I need. First here is the original. I'm using different color temp light sources, the walls of the photo box are slightly gray, and the table the parts are sitting on are white. So i'm trying to achieve the most accurate camera settings to get the original below:
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After doing levels and exposure correction in PSD, I get what I want. I played around with the channel mixer and color balance to see if I can properly correct the object so it looks like gray steel, and not having that slight yellow/green tint to it.
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 The only way I could figure it out is to just turn off the hue saturation and it gives it a somewhat decent result as seen below: But suppose my object is made of gold, or has a piece of plastic on it that's red; if so, then turning off the saturation will not work.how I can use other controls in PSD to achieve a more accurate result?
when I open the Lens Correction panel in Camera Raw, there should be two visible tabs, profile and manual. I have none and am using CS 5. How do I get these tabs.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am retaking photos that my father took of vacation locations he visited several states away some 80 years ago. I have found the exact location for many, but find on my return home that the images that I took at 16mm do not match the scene that he photographed, probably at about 28 mm, as that is probably the lowest focal length lens he had at the time. Can I use my CS4 software to correct the difference in the scenes caused by the different focal length shots?
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Simple enlarging does not work, as this makes cropping necessary, thus making my retake of the scene smaller in scope, thus not matching the original total scene.
I took some family portraits using a Canon D60, RAW files.
I'm using Lightroom and Photoshop to work on them, with the goal of making a hard-copy print.
Also, I used florescent photography lighting, with "6400K" bulbs that came with the lights.
My problem is a little yellow tinting in some of the skin tones. My face, for example, looks just fine except for the shadow areas around the eyes, where it seems a little yellow-green, looking almost like a bruise. Meanwhile, my nephew's face looks a bit yellow.
I've used (in Lightroom) the neutral eyedropper on white clothing and grey background, and everything else seems fine. That is, the photo is not over-all tinted. I've tried the different Camera Calibration settings, and tried the temperature/tint sliders to see what difference it made.
How I might improve my photos? I've attached a detail, saved with an ICC profile of AdobeRGB.
when I use the red eye correction tool in Photoshop CS3, rather than correct the red eye it "splashes" black all over the eye and face, making the face look "ghoulish". Is there a technique to this process beyond just putting the crosshair over the red eye and clicking.
View 2 Replies View Relatedi have some pics that were taken at an outside picnic. the sky behind the subjects is almost white, but they are in really deep shadow. When i fix the subjects the rest of the photo is really bad. I've made some headway with adjustemnt layers and masks, but is there anything else i could be doing?
View 8 Replies View Relatedtrying to improve the quality of this picture. I have tried a few ideas suggested on this forum (I have searched) Including Smart Sharpen, Sharpen Mask, and High Pass filter and light linear blending, and a few plugins. None of them have produced results that improve the image.
View 4 Replies View Relatedcorrection of poor quality?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI current do a lot of architectural photography (especially of houses) and when I take pictures pointing the camera upward slightly all the angles go out and the photos look unprofessional. I have been told I can correct this in Lens Correction but have struggled to work out how to do it.
View 1 Replies View RelatedTo me, an easy and non-subjective way to make an image color-neutral is through Levels.
I leave the RGB channel untouched and use strictly the separate color channels (ctrl 1, 2 and 3), adjusting the black and the white sliders so that the blanco parts (non-information) on the edges of the histogram are excluded.
I was wondering if there exists a shortcut for this, since it is a verifyable action based on concrete readings. When scanning a large amount of images, it seems unnecessarily exhausting to repeat this action time and again.
The Auto Levels or Auto Colors commands don't work subtle enough, because they usually discard the outer parts of the histogram.
i have been trying to find the lens correction tool in my version of Photoshop CS, can anyone tel me how to find it, I have photoshop cs version 8,
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