when you move it to PS he has you use the curves panel to color correct. Of course that entails using the black eye dropper and clicking on the blackest/darkest area of the photo, similar for the white dropper, and after a nice little trick to find the right spot......... an area for the midtone dropper.Â
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The thing is I've noticed that once I make that first click with the black dropper, that nice contrast I had from ACR adjustments goes out the window and the photo brightens up a lot. The final steps of putting 3 points on the curve and dropping the blacks end and raising the whites end brings it back a bit but I was thinking isn't setting the WB with the dropper in ACR already color correcting?Â
Even at the end of the book when he goes through his actual workflow using a provided .dng example he does all the ACR stuff and then moves to PS and uses the curves panel.
I am taking pictures of art and would like to correct the photos so that the colors are accurate. Need to use some kind of color swatch in each picture? I would like to include the color swatch strip in the edge of each picture so that I can correct the colors more easily and then crop the color swatch out. What kind of colors do I need in the color swatch? Also, would it be useful to have black/white/50% grey in the strip to work with leveling? I am going to correct the leveling and try to remove the color cast. Â I also have to photograph things which are very shiny (e.g. coated in shellac). How to use an external flash to minimize flash glare?
I want to display photos shot as JPG from a DSLR on a TV. When played on the TV they seem dark and lots of detail gets lost. How to make my images look good on a LCD TV? I am pretty new to Photoshop, would I just play with the Levels?
I am interested in which method to use to correct color. I try using curves and end up with a blown color look. Then I go into Levels and change what I did in curves.
In PS 7.0. I have a brochure done by a printing company & I have the source photoshop files. I am creating a new piece, but I would like the brochure's background color to match the background of the new piece.I have took the background file of the brochure provided by the printer & placed it on the new piece. The new piece has been sent out to a different printer. It's stock is going to be 18PT.C1S with high-gloss film lamination.They have printed a proof & realized the background colors do not match. The brochure has more yellow in it. Is there a way I can color correct the file so I don't have to pay the extra for the printer to do it? Do I just add more yellow with one of the adjustment layers?
I am taking photos of parts for a client. I've got a pretty good method down with correcting the originals to achieve the results I need. First here is the original. I'm using different color temp light sources, the walls of the photo box are slightly gray, and the table the parts are sitting on are white. So i'm trying to achieve the most accurate camera settings to get the original below:  After doing levels and exposure correction in PSD, I get what I want. I played around with the channel mixer and color balance to see if I can properly correct the object so it looks like gray steel, and not having that slight yellow/green tint to it.   The only way I could figure it out is to just turn off the hue saturation and it gives it a somewhat decent result as seen below: But suppose my object is made of gold, or has a piece of plastic on it that's red; if so, then turning off the saturation will not work.how I can use other controls in PSD to achieve a more accurate result?
I took some family portraits using a Canon D60, RAW files.
I'm using Lightroom and Photoshop to work on them, with the goal of making a hard-copy print.
Also, I used florescent photography lighting, with "6400K" bulbs that came with the lights.
My problem is a little yellow tinting in some of the skin tones. My face, for example, looks just fine except for the shadow areas around the eyes, where it seems a little yellow-green, looking almost like a bruise. Meanwhile, my nephew's face looks a bit yellow.
I've used (in Lightroom) the neutral eyedropper on white clothing and grey background, and everything else seems fine. That is, the photo is not over-all tinted. I've tried the different Camera Calibration settings, and tried the temperature/tint sliders to see what difference it made.
How I might improve my photos? I've attached a detail, saved with an ICC profile of AdobeRGB.
To me, an easy and non-subjective way to make an image color-neutral is through Levels.
I leave the RGB channel untouched and use strictly the separate color channels (ctrl 1, 2 and 3), adjusting the black and the white sliders so that the blanco parts (non-information) on the edges of the histogram are excluded.
I was wondering if there exists a shortcut for this, since it is a verifyable action based on concrete readings. When scanning a large amount of images, it seems unnecessarily exhausting to repeat this action time and again.
The Auto Levels or Auto Colors commands don't work subtle enough, because they usually discard the outer parts of the histogram.
I'm trying to color correct some photos, yet when I shift click on a white area, get my digits from the info panel, and start enterin them in the curves value, it's not working properly....the color won't change, also, with midpoints, I used the 50% gray method, found a spot, and the image color went completely nuts, does anyone have a good site for a tutoiral on this? am I doing something wrong?
i got a Color checker last week (SpyderCeckr) and now i try very hard to put this color correction into PS Elements 10. I have already installed ACR 6.7. My problem is i can not choose any .xmp data in ACR. Is it possible to choose? Or is there a other way
How do I make a selection of ALL the yellow on the Meatball building and make it a deeper yellow the way it has been done in the attached photographs: Â BEFORE Â AFTERÂ
Someone suggested playing with the Color Range: Select/Color Range and then use the lasso tool plus the option button to delete what you don't need. But that's not working for me. Â And in the next photo, what is/how do you achieve the blended effect on the area that is the where you would more obviously see that this is made-up of two photos? It's a blending mode right? Which one?
If you had to recommend a "color correction" plugin, which would it be? I'm assuming that most you use PS's native tools for the most part but have a couple color correction plugins you think actually work...
I am doing spot color correction on an image, I have a hard time getting everything to blend correctly. For example, I'm working on an image where the bottom right hand corner is a lot darker than the rest of the piece. When I color correct that part of the image,
I clicked on the auto color correction from the level because the picture was pink. I looked at the shadod clip .50 , highlight clip .50 and closed it when It changed the picture and it's better now but Can I still use the arrow from red, blue and green from the level to get better pictures?
I used to have Photoshop 7 and often used the RGB controls to make color corrections. Now I have Elements 8 and I miss having RGB controls. Is there a way in PSE 8 I can simply adjust R, G, and B individually like I've been used to?If not, what is the closest substitute in PSE 8?
i use pro x4 and i dont like the color correction in corel software.there is no midtone high & low colors to get a cinema look.in every other software you get this option,so i must to edit my stuff in corel and then color correct & rendering in sony vegas to many work,in the next version add this option its very important no the screen recorder in prox5
I have a set of photos, taken a while back. They're closeups of the stages of a craft process, and not easily reshootable.
I was with the craft, I didn't notice that the day was passing, and that the light I was shooting with was varying, and I didn't do a manual white balance for each shot.
Each photo on its own looks "OK", but when I tried a montage, the white balance differences between the shots was UGLY.
So - I don't need accurately calibrated shots, but I'd like the colorspace of all the photos to be as similar as possible, so that identical physical objects have the same in-image colors.
There are several areas in the photos that are of the same (physical) item that could be used to drive a calibration/matching process, but they're not white/gray/black.
So - how do I match up the colors? I've tried to botch at it by hand editing curves but it was tedious and error prone.
Is it possible to use GIMP to produce a color correction texture look up? I am hoping to use GIMP to create texture correction lut to create moods in Unity, as described here.
I've been learning After Effects for several months and I have to say its a blast. I'm already in projects where they require special effects, and from months of just teaching myself.I'm almost finally able to achieve any effect I want, for example: a bomb made to implode the earth's core with a black hole (a still picture from an upcoming super hero comedy series called "Zack").  Anyways, I'm now learning more advanced color balance, I always knew the basics and I just go with what looks good (which is how it usually works), but I never quite understood. Like curves.I watch tutorials and see people use a mix of colors to get the color they want. Honestly I don't know my colors in that way, is there a chart guide for color correction?
When I use the eyedropper to build a secondary color correction mask (rgb curves, three-way, etc) I have to click the eyedropper with the + and then go over to my source monitor and click on the portion I want to build the mask for. If I need to select multiple colors to dial in the mask further I have to keep going back over and clicking the little eyedropper + and then back over to the source monitor and back and forth over and over again. Â I know there is a better way, or at least a short cut to reselct the eyedropper +
The only posts I ever see on any site usually deal with Photoshop. I've been getting decent results using one step photo finish and then sliding the overall brightness bar to a negative position usually -10 to -30. I then go to fade correction and use a value of 46. This seems to do a decent job. My wife and I are avid snorkelers so I'm usually taking my pictures at a depth of 10' - 30' of water with an internal flash.
We would like to export RAW files in their original RAW format AND retain their color correction and stars labels. We would then like to import these exported RAW + XMP files into other Lightroom Catalogs. Sometimes when we do this, however, the color correction and stars ratings from the last catalog are not visible.
Preforming basic color correction in the develop module. Often I see an image is just a little Cyan or Red, how do you correct. The only controls are blue/yellow or magenta/green.
