I am working with a photo of a group of people shot in front of windows. The windows are white hot. What's the best way to bring the brightness down without affecting the contrast - ie, making it newspaper gray?
I have CS2, and not dealing with a camera that has RAW.
I have multiple scans of color markups that need to be corrected before we print them. Is there any way to save my corrections that I made to one so that I can just apply it to all of them? Its just time consuming have to go through and make all the same changes over and over again.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have taken some photos of text books in a library, the photos aren't the best quality because I was in a hurry and the library rules forbid photos being taken so most of them are not straight, a bit blury or taken at the wrong angle (star wars film intro text style!!).
I needed to convert these jpegs to doc format or PDF but since the texts shown in the photos are not perfectly straight or clear how to get the texts in the photos straight and clear enough to be able to convert them correctly to .doc or pdf formats.
i have some pics that were taken at an outside picnic. the sky behind the subjects is almost white, but they are in really deep shadow. When i fix the subjects the rest of the photo is really bad. I've made some headway with adjustemnt layers and masks, but is there anything else i could be doing?
View 8 Replies View RelatedI develop my photo using lightroom5. The basic menu disappeared and I can't get it back.
View 3 Replies View RelatedNeed color correcting my underwater shots.
The only posts I ever see on any site usually deal with Photoshop. I've been getting decent results using one step photo finish and then sliding the overall brightness bar to a negative position usually -10 to -30. I then go to fade correction and use a value of 46. This seems to do a decent job. My wife and I are avid snorkelers so I'm usually taking my pictures at a depth of 10' - 30' of water with an internal flash.
Have Photoshop CC updated, Go Pro not an option under "Lens Correction", how do I add.
View 7 Replies View Relatedwhen you move it to PS he has you use the curves panel to color correct. Of course that entails using the black eye dropper and clicking on the blackest/darkest area of the photo, similar for the white dropper, and after a nice little trick to find the right spot......... an area for the midtone dropper.Â
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The thing is I've noticed that once I make that first click with the black dropper, that nice contrast I had from ACR adjustments goes out the window and the photo brightens up a lot. The final steps of putting 3 points on the curve and dropping the blacks end and raising the whites end brings it back a bit but I was thinking isn't setting the WB with the dropper in ACR already color correcting?Â
Even at the end of the book when he goes through his actual workflow using a provided .dng example he does all the ACR stuff and then moves to PS and uses the curves panel.
I want to display photos shot as JPG from a DSLR on a TV. When played on the TV they seem dark and lots of detail gets lost. How to make my images look good on a LCD TV? I am pretty new to Photoshop, would I just play with the Levels?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI am interested in which method to use to correct color. I try using curves and end up with a blown color look. Then I go into Levels and change what I did in curves.
View 4 Replies View Relatedafter applying gamma correction on an image , would that affect its looking / view ? I tried to apply gamma correction 0.45 and it gives me good results on windows OS . I am not sure that this is the right thing to do ?
How can I know that after applying image enhacement ( gamma correction , resample , etc ) would produce a better image quality ? is there any software /tool that I can know that the image after applying the enhancement is better than before ?
I've got Photoshop CS3 and would like to "Auto Correct" some 3000 photos.
The only way I know of how to auto correct something is to manually click
Image>Adjustments>Auto Levels, Auto Colors, and Auto Curves.
Is there some way that I can have Photoshop completely Auto Correct a batch of photos?
I don't know why I can't change my Photoshop to Black either in foreground, or background color. I set it to 00000, but it shows dark green color.
View 7 Replies View RelatedIn PS 7.0. I have a brochure done by a printing company & I have the source photoshop files. I am creating a new piece, but I would like the brochure's background color to match the background of the new piece.I have took the background file of the brochure provided by the printer & placed it on the new piece. The new piece has been sent out to a different printer. It's stock is going to be 18PT.C1S with high-gloss film lamination.They have printed a proof & realized the background colors do not match. The brochure has more yellow in it. Is there a way I can color correct the file so I don't have to pay the extra for the printer to do it? Do I just add more yellow with one of the adjustment layers?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI training myself photo retouching and I am tring to understand how to do colour correction correctly for output in printing press. So I am intrested in CMYK settings
I have two quections
1)
How i understand so far it is important to find in a photo you are working to correct the shadows, mid, and highlight,(photoshop cs book) it said to use the threhold to find the shadows and highlight, but is say much about midtones. Anyone know any trick or tip to find out the midtones? what do you look in a photo to find it?
2)
How find the correct balance in colour so when it go to printing press is not too light or too dark?
I find that I almost always use Lens Correction.
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Add an option to Always Use Lens Correction.
I am taking photos of parts for a client. I've got a pretty good method down with correcting the originals to achieve the results I need. First here is the original. I'm using different color temp light sources, the walls of the photo box are slightly gray, and the table the parts are sitting on are white. So i'm trying to achieve the most accurate camera settings to get the original below:
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After doing levels and exposure correction in PSD, I get what I want. I played around with the channel mixer and color balance to see if I can properly correct the object so it looks like gray steel, and not having that slight yellow/green tint to it.
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 The only way I could figure it out is to just turn off the hue saturation and it gives it a somewhat decent result as seen below: But suppose my object is made of gold, or has a piece of plastic on it that's red; if so, then turning off the saturation will not work.how I can use other controls in PSD to achieve a more accurate result?
when I open the Lens Correction panel in Camera Raw, there should be two visible tabs, profile and manual. I have none and am using CS 5. How do I get these tabs.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am retaking photos that my father took of vacation locations he visited several states away some 80 years ago. I have found the exact location for many, but find on my return home that the images that I took at 16mm do not match the scene that he photographed, probably at about 28 mm, as that is probably the lowest focal length lens he had at the time. Can I use my CS4 software to correct the difference in the scenes caused by the different focal length shots?
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Simple enlarging does not work, as this makes cropping necessary, thus making my retake of the scene smaller in scope, thus not matching the original total scene.
I took some family portraits using a Canon D60, RAW files.
I'm using Lightroom and Photoshop to work on them, with the goal of making a hard-copy print.
Also, I used florescent photography lighting, with "6400K" bulbs that came with the lights.
My problem is a little yellow tinting in some of the skin tones. My face, for example, looks just fine except for the shadow areas around the eyes, where it seems a little yellow-green, looking almost like a bruise. Meanwhile, my nephew's face looks a bit yellow.
I've used (in Lightroom) the neutral eyedropper on white clothing and grey background, and everything else seems fine. That is, the photo is not over-all tinted. I've tried the different Camera Calibration settings, and tried the temperature/tint sliders to see what difference it made.
How I might improve my photos? I've attached a detail, saved with an ICC profile of AdobeRGB.
when I use the red eye correction tool in Photoshop CS3, rather than correct the red eye it "splashes" black all over the eye and face, making the face look "ghoulish". Is there a technique to this process beyond just putting the crosshair over the red eye and clicking.
View 2 Replies View Relatedtrying to improve the quality of this picture. I have tried a few ideas suggested on this forum (I have searched) Including Smart Sharpen, Sharpen Mask, and High Pass filter and light linear blending, and a few plugins. None of them have produced results that improve the image.
View 4 Replies View Relatedcorrection of poor quality?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI current do a lot of architectural photography (especially of houses) and when I take pictures pointing the camera upward slightly all the angles go out and the photos look unprofessional. I have been told I can correct this in Lens Correction but have struggled to work out how to do it.
View 1 Replies View RelatedTo me, an easy and non-subjective way to make an image color-neutral is through Levels.
I leave the RGB channel untouched and use strictly the separate color channels (ctrl 1, 2 and 3), adjusting the black and the white sliders so that the blanco parts (non-information) on the edges of the histogram are excluded.
I was wondering if there exists a shortcut for this, since it is a verifyable action based on concrete readings. When scanning a large amount of images, it seems unnecessarily exhausting to repeat this action time and again.
The Auto Levels or Auto Colors commands don't work subtle enough, because they usually discard the outer parts of the histogram.
i have been trying to find the lens correction tool in my version of Photoshop CS, can anyone tel me how to find it, I have photoshop cs version 8,
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm trying to color correct some photos, yet when I shift click on a white area, get my digits from the info panel, and start enterin them in the curves value, it's not working properly....the color won't change, also, with midpoints, I used the 50% gray method, found a spot, and the image color went completely nuts, does anyone have a good site for a tutoiral on this? am I doing something wrong?
View 5 Replies View Relatedi got a Color checker last week (SpyderCeckr) and now i try very hard to put this color correction into PS Elements 10. I have already installed ACR 6.7. My problem is i can not choose any .xmp data in ACR. Is it possible to choose? Or is there a other way
View 2 Replies View RelatedI just got a Nikon D800E and on my first day of shooting I noticed a hot pixel spot in my images in Bridge. The when I opened the files in ACR, the hot pixel spot was gone. Apparently this is a "feature" of ACR: it automatically replaces hot pixels with RGB values from neighboring pixels. (So those of you who think you have no hot pixels, think again - you might be shielded from the truth! I find this fact very disconcerting, but that's a separate issue...).
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The problem is that I can't tell how many hot pixels there are. Based on the image in Bridge, it would have to be spot of 20 - 30 pixels (maybe even more). That's unacceptable to me, especially on a $3300 camera. Sure, maybe a few hot pixels spread around the image, but 20-30 bunched in that one spot, that's unacceptable.
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However, I can't figure out how to disable the automatic hot pixel correction in ACR, so I don't know if the issue really is 20 - 30 hot pixels or if Bridge is just doing some type of sub-sampling that makes the problem look a lot worse than it is. Furthermore, this concerns me greatly because I've been using a D200 for many years and have never seen a single hot pixel issue. So that says to me that the sensor on my D800E has a bigger hot pixel issue than it should (I realize all sensors have some hot/dead pixels).
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How to go about figuring this out? The simplest solution is to disable the automatic hot pixel correction in ACR, but I can't figure out how to do that. I'm guessing it's not possible.
How do I make a selection of ALL the yellow on the Meatball building and make it a deeper yellow the way it has been done in the attached photographs:
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BEFORE
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Someone suggested playing with the Color Range: Select/Color Range and then use the lasso tool plus the option button to delete what you don't need. But that's not working for me.
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And in the next photo, what is/how do you achieve the blended effect on the area that is the where you would more obviously see that this is made-up of two photos? It's a blending mode right? Which one?
I am using Photoshop CS6 on a PC running Win7. In the previous version I was able to save a profile in the Lens Correction panel. In this version I can find my camera and my lens but it won't let me save the profile. I only real estate and straight verticals are very important.
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