Lightroom :: Keep Sharp Contrast Image Without Adding More Deep Shadows
Jan 22, 2013
Many times my raw images are left with what can only be described as a "haze" over them. It is not a lens deal, it is something I'm not doing in the raw conversion process because .jpegs don't have it albeit .jpegs have their other weaknesses. Sometimes the black slider will remove the haze, but many times I'm left with too many areas that are dark. I think it is a contrast issue, but I really stuggle getting rid of the haze and keep a sharp contrasty image without adding more deep shadows to the image.
I have a product collage at my company that has a white background with natural shadows. Is there a way to add that to a colored/textured background where the shadows will look correct and I won't have to manually erase all the white?
When I use color balance, I lose some of the darkness of the original shadows of the image. How can I use the tool without loosing the contrast of the shadows?
Why does an imported photo on my computer screen in Library and Develop modes in LightRoom 3 appear to be less sharp than the original photo? What to do? When I export the same photo, without making any adjustments to the photo in LightRoom, it appears to be sharp again.
I'm importing RAW files straight from a CF card reader into my network storage drive via LR5.3. While reviewing as it imports initially each image looks great but a few seconds after it loads onto the screen it seems like LR applies a bit of extra brightness and lessens the contrast and I lose a load of detail that was there originally. I've not touched the import settings and no filters are being applied by myself on import.
LR4.2 gives some ugly magenta color cast on deep shadows especially at high iso pictures. Nikon Capture NX2 gives them too, but not so heavy. If I push the shadows at iso 1600, they are all magenta. Is it related to the beta state of the D600 support? My D700 is at iso 3200 in deep shadows completely black (only luminance noise), even pushed. Is there a possibility to correct that issue with LR (high iso blackpoint correction)? The shadow color tint correction from the calibration option is not really a solution, because it does not only correct the deep shadows, so the other shadows get a green tint.
This is an old Kodak PCD image of a stained glass window converted to a TIF and a small portion made into a JPG for the purpose of this illustration. I would like to make 2 corrections:
1) I would like to accentuate the brush marks in the face. From my humble notions of PS I know that pulling the contrast slider across isn't really the answer but something like finding the fainter, darker pixels and accentuating them with some kind of mask is more the way to go.
2) There is an outdoor shadow that runs up the left hand side of the image which I would like to eliminate.
I've got drop shadows on layers to help accentuate the edges, which is working fine. However, many of the lines overlap and when the shadows go over the top of each other they tend to "multiply" and get darker as they overlap.
I've tried changing the blending modes from multiply, to normal to ?. Do to I go about not getting the shadows to build up?
What is the effect or process to, for example, ensure that normally washed out bright background on, say, a sunny beach, has same depth and contrast as the darker subject in the foreground? It is an unnatural state since your eye and most cameras will adjust to one extreme or the other.
I've been working on this photograhph. This is my great grandma, grandma and mom - and I really want to make this picture look better. I have been working with curves, which helps greatly with the contrast, and then tried reducing the noise with median/gaussian blur etc. and then selecting overlay.... but I haven't found anything that turned out even decent.
I have an imported image that needs a 50px black frame with hard edges on the _outside_ of the image.I have found solutions but they do not have mitered corners.I cannot use the canvas size to accomplish this as the canvas contains other objects.
When I try to merge multiple images into one - like overlays and what not I always end up with 'sharp' edges between the layer - anyone have any suggestions as to how I can soften them up some?
I would imagine part of the problem is I have been using the polygonal lasso to help block off the areas i want to layer mask - I have tried the free hand lasso but the results are too wonky.
I'm using a Windows 7 icore7 machine. The file I'm working on is composed of six layers: 1) a masked Levels layer; 2) a masked Noise layer; 3) a masked Hipass layer; 4) a convert to BW layer; 5) a copy of the background layer; 6) the background layer. All the eyes on the layers are ON.
When I Flatten Image the contrasty look I've created with the Levels adjustment layer AND with the Hipass layer disappears and the flattened image no longer exhibits those qualities - in other words it reverts back to being soft, low contrast.
All the eyes are ON.
I tried various combinations of MERGE VISIBLE and the same thing happens.I swapped Hipass for Unsharp Mask and for Smart Sharpen and even more weirdness happens - These filters have no effect at all.
looking at the image plane and the 2 inputs I used - diffuse / opacity (alpha channel), what parameters are the best way to adjust the image plane brightness / contrast / levels (photoshop style)?
That’s what I like about these forums. A great way to get straight to the point and learn stuff fast.
I want to design letter S like following image with sharp edges and in vector, So that I will not loose quality if it made into any big size. just trying to start with CS6, I've installed it so I'm looking forward with detailed and perfect method to follow to draw my "S".
I open an image from LR5 into CS6 and then apply Topaz Adjust 5 filter. I make my alterations in Topaz and save back to CS6. The resulting image in CS6 is markedly different to that shown in Topaz.
I have tried making the image 8 bit instead of 16bit in Photoshop before calling up Topaz but to no effect. The image rendered back in PS is lower contrast and less clarity, loosing many of the enhancements from Topaz. This seems to apply especially to monochrome effects. I can't see how to go straight from Lightroom to Topaz as Topaz only appears to be a plugin for CS6 and don't know if this would work anyway.
I am able to change the brightness/contrast for part of an image by using, for example, the Rectangle Select tool. I want to be a little trickier though. I would like to use the rectangle select tool, but have the effect of the brightness/contrast apply 100% at the bottom of the rectangle and say 10% at the top, with gradations from 100 to 10 from bottom to top. Is this possible?
Slideshow with LR4 for raw and JPG files is not sharp enough (seems a bit soft or appears not enough resolution) when comparing to using ViewNX2 for NEF files or using photo explorer of Windows 7 (with plugin) for DNG files. The same result for a small notebook screen or a 42" 1080P display. What is your best way to conduct slideshow of raw files for the right resolution that meeting display size? I have set my standard preview size to 2048pixels and medium quality.
Frequently LR directs my display to actually change 1:1 sharp previews to blurry, and if I come back to them later, they are sharp for about 1 sec and become blurry again.AND there is no "loading..." note.
No, these are not modified files. They are fresh imports with 1:1 previews as always.I can get proper 1:1 in the app window. Lucky I know this or I'd have thrown away lots of stuff.
It's the Window>secondarydisplay>show that fails. That display is actually the DVI input.The primary screen app window is the VGA input.
I have been using previous version of LR and never had this problem. Image is not sharp and noise filter doesn't seem to be applied when I do my export. It looks completely different on a Dev Module.
I exported some HDRs made with Photomatix to a folder on my desktop, and they became fuzzy in Preview. They looked fine in Lightroom before exporting, and the non-HDRs exported at the same time are fine.
I have a darkish image which is layered on top of a white background. How can I make the edge of the image less sharp and mould into the white background less sharply.
I have an image with the main subject (a car) and the background which I wish to have set to a Antique Contrast type effect. I think this is what it was called as I placed this text 'AntiqueContrast' in the file name to remind me, but now I can not find anything what I may have done to get this effect.
I either selected the area I wanted to alter or the the area I wanted left alone.
