I have a JPG image that I want to edit with photoshop 7. I know that if I edit directly the JPG image and save again as new JPG image, the quality of the new saved image will be degraded. Experienced user know that because JPG is a lossy format.
I want to retain the quality of the edited image. Then I heard that the TIFF format is a lossless format that support compression.
I have a JPG image that I want to edit with photoshop 7. I know that if I edit directly the JPG image and save again as new JPG image, the quality of the new saved image will be degraded. Experienced user know that because JPG is a lossy format.
I want to retain the quality of the edited image. Then I heard that the TIFF format is a lossless format that support compression.
I usually done this:
A. Let's say I have a JPG image that I want to edit, then I open the image and directly save it as a new TIFF image (with LZW compression).
B. Then I will do editing to the TIFF image.
C. After the editing TIFF image done, I will save it as a new copy of JPG image.
Note: Step C is only performed if I want to publish the image.
The questions:
1. Is the step A a correct step from the view of experienced user? I mean is this a step that I should do if I want to retain the quality of the want-to-edit image.
2. Does the LZW compression in TIFF give a quality loss in the image?
3. If I save a JPG image in TIFF format (with LZW compression), is there any quality loss (i.e., artifacts) in the saved TIFF image?
The next question is about saving the image as JPG in maximum quality for publishing.
Usually I choose these settings in the JPEG options:
* I choose "12" for the quality (the highest number).
* I choose "Baseline optimized" in the Format Options (There are 3 options available: Baseline ("Standard"), Baseline Optimized, and Progressive).
The questions:
- In save as dialog, there is "ICC Profile" checkbox. What is it used for? Does it affect the quality of the image? Should I check this option if I want to gain maximum quality image?
- Am I choose the correct option in the Format Options if I want to gain maximum quality image? What's difference of the three Format Options? What should I choose if I want to gain maximum quality of the JPG image?
- Is there any other factor that I must consider if I want to gain the maximum quality of the JPG image?
Using LR2, and processing a large number of images, I always crop to a 6x4 ratio. However, this seems to need to be manually set on each image. I can set up other processing settings as a pre-set, but not the crop. It wants to go to Original for each image.
Is there a way to skip this manual step and always crop to the 6x4 ratio?
At the bottom of the document window, the information displayed seems to only be able to show one item, is it possible to show multiple items avoiding clicking on there to cycle through them all to see the information?
Why is my image showing 732K in the document information, but mousing over it while it is closed showing 69K. Am I misunderstanding the file reading size, i.e. 1048 bytes is 1mg?
My problem is related with the quality of a image.
My question is how to maintain high quality (original quality) of a image after resizing it?
If i resize it with same ratio like:
2816x2112px to 1600x1200px (4:3)
2816x1584px to 1920x1080px (16:9)
Mainly i use scale image option in Gimp. But now i need to resize many images for my work so i tried David's Batch Processor to resize my images. After using it, i found there is some quality promble with the resized image.
Then i tried, the scale option with, use quality setting from original image and JPEG quality parameter is 95, in gimp but the problem is same. I did it with also with David's batch processor- JPEG quality parameter is 95.
Other thing is that, the original image 2816x2112px (4:3), size- 3.6 MB is displaying in image viewer with 47% and the resized image 1600x1200px (4:3). size- 1.2 MB is displaying in image viewer with 83%, So my questions are: How can i check the quality of a image after resizing it, means the image is exactly same as the original? Or Is David's Batch Processor maintain the original quality of the images after resizing?. I realy need to resize many images for my work.
I worked on an image in Lightroom, got the contrast and color perfect, and when I went to "Edit in Photoshop" it completely flattened out my photo by darkening most of my lighter areas and it looks awful. Check out the sky in these two images to see what I mean. I have LR3 and CS4.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI record video tutorials about Photoshop (so, screen captures) and edit/combine the clips inside Photoshop CS6 in Win 7/64; Photoshop's new video talent is nice. I record 852x480px at 15 fps with FastStone Capture and save in WMV. I want to show the finished video tutorial on Youtube. There are several things baffling me when editing video in Photoshop CS6.
My original records (according to MediaInfo):
Software: FastStone Capture
Overall bit rate mode : Variable
[code]....
The result looks very nice when i play it locally in VLC. It looks like the original WMV. But: When i upload the Photoshop-version to YouTube, the video looks very badly "upsampled" and blurred. It looks much worse than the uploaded WMV original. If you like, you can compare the two videos from the same source online:
Uploaded WMV clip, looking good (set player to 480 p): URL....
Rendered in Photoshop CS6, looking bad (set player to 480 p): URL.....I do like the resolution of 852x480 and would like to keep it. If not possible, i have to record tutorials in 1280x720, even though icons and menus look too small. So far i have not tested it.
I searched my folder C:Program Files (x86)Common FilesAdobedynamiclinkmediaserver1.0. There is a lot in it which i don't understand, but some file names include "MPEG", "AVI", "Adobe QT Server" etc. I think there is no Quicktime installed on my machine; i try to avoid it as it does many different things to the system and is obnoxious.
My questions:
- When aiming for a YouTube cast, could i stay with 852x480 (at 15 fps), or doesn't it make sense? (I like that size.) If 852x480 is not ok, what is the lowest resolution for getting good looking presentations on Youtube?
- Why does the Adobe Media Encoder in my Photoshop CS6 only offer the formats H.264 and DPX? Can i get more? (Free, pay.)
- Do i need to install Quicktime? How could i do this with less intrusive QT behaviour?
- Should i record more fps in FastStone Capture? (I don't find more fps necessary when looking at the original and when looking at the uploaded *original*.)
My photo is great when I open or view it in any other application. Why does it look low quality in pse 11? Also when I make edits and save them as jpegs, they look great again outside of pse11.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have the following equipment:
Canon HDV XH-A1S
When capturing HDV clip with Premier Pro CC and playing it in the timeline, the video plays very choppy (bounces) and vertical lines flicker (drapes, edges if doors, etc...). It also seems like it is playing too fast (?). I play the exact same captured clip in Windows Media Player, and it look great.
My Canon was set at HDV 60i
clip properties:
Type: MPEG Movie
File Size: 1.1 GB
Image Size: 1440 x 1080
Frame Rate: 29.97
Source Audio Format: 48000 Hz - compressed - Stereo
Project Audio Format: 48000 Hz - 32 bit floating point - Stereo
Total Duration: 00;06;04;06
Pixel Aspect Ratio: 1.3333
I am trying to produce a DVD for private use only from a recording of a free-to-air TV one-off program. The program was recorded by my PVR set-top box that we use to convert the digital (HD, I *think*!) signal for our old analog TVs.
After quite a lot of work - due more to my lack of expertise than anyhting else - I have a VideoStudio project that seems to play quite nicely on the PC.
However, when I burn a DVD, the result is very jerky and flickery - to me, it seems as if the frame speed is too slow.
On one attempt, I noticed that the final .VOB file was only about 2GB - 51 minutes of video - and I decided to try increasing the video bitrate (I think that's what it was). The new .VOB file was a little over 4GB, so I expected the quality to be better.
Not so! In fact (without being able to play the two DVDs at the same time) I think it might be even worse at the higher bitrate.
A while back I took a Photoshop class and remember a lesson on where you could select a region of an image and save it for the web with a high quality and select another region of the same image and save it for the web with a low quality, so that the focal point was saved with a high quality and the background was saved with a low quality. I have no idea where my notes are from this class and can not remember at all how to do this. Can anyone direct me to a tutorial about this?
View 2 Replies View RelatedThere are some questions I have about screen redraw in CS4.
First off screen redraw without GPU acceleration is much slower than in CS3.
In the "advanced options" of the GPU settings there is the option "color matching".
If I turn it off I don`t have the option to softproof anymore. That is turning softproof on or off doesn`t change the colors anymore. If I turn it on, I can softproof again but I get banding in a black to white gradient. Slight, but noticable. To see the diffenrence that the settings make you have to close and open the document again.
I have both ImageReady and Photoshop but have never got the chance to actually tinker with any of them. Now, however, after seeing how much the programs can do, I really want to go serious with the programs. So I have a bunch of questions:
1. Photoshop, is it a generally easy program to learn?
2. Do you need to buy a book/tutorial or any of that stuff to really handle Photoshop or can you just tinker with the program and in a few months be able to handle it like a pro?
3. How do you add a border to an image using Photoshop?
4. How do you add letter or even a sentence in an image using photoshop?
1/ On a non-English keyboard, some shortcut keys like [, ] and ~ can only be reached through the AltGR tab, and are therefore useless. Is it possible in CS to make one's own shortcuts for brush size etc?
2/ Does the histogram tool live-update when one uses tools like Levels or Curves?
3/ Are we still met by that backwards compatibility popup when we save?
4/ Do the precise pointers for brushes still hide on greyish works, forcing one to press the spacebar to see where the cursor is?
5/ How well is 16 bits really implemented? Case: Can I, in 16 bits in CS, duplicate an RGB image, switch the copy to LAB, copy the lightness channel to the clipboard and paste this in the original in an alpha or a layer mask or on a new layer?
6/ Do all filters work in 16 bits mode, and if third party ones don't, do they still work in PS? Filters like KPT3 (remember the problems with 7), Xaostools, ..
1. How do I make my text into blocks, sort of 3D like (just by having black text color in the back of the existing text)?
2. I want to have mutiple lines in my text field, but everytime I press 'enter', it doesn't indent!
3. If I have a rectangular orange box, how do I make it go from dark orange to light orange (gradient)?
4. Can I turn sharp edges into rounded edges?
5. Is there anywhere where I can choose a border design? Like having dash lines for making my border.
6. How do I achieve the "fold" effect where a corner may be folded (like this example below
7. How do I make my text go diagnal?
I have noticed some annoying things about initial interaction with PS that I wanted some quick feedback on:
* I know PS can not use layered PNG. Is there any tool out there that can convert these to PSD with layers intact? I have a ton of old work that is in that format and will cry if I have to recreate everything.
* I noticed that the select tool is very picky in PS. If I am working on a layer or object, I can not select out of that object to activate another layer or object. I have to confirm changes (annoying pop up) and select the object or layer from the layer panel....EVERY TIME. Is there a way to change this behavior?
* The text tool is defaulted to show in PT. Is there a way to change this to default in pixels? I am using Photoshop for the web in most cases, not print.
* The status bar (bottom left in Mac) can show document dimensions, but it is always in inches. Can I change this to pixels?
1) is there a way to "save for web" only user slices? without the auto slices?
2) is there a way to 'copy' the slices (all of them together) from one file to another?
1: How do I make a key/shortcut for 100% zoom (actual size)
2: Is Photoshop capable of showing boundaries of objects when hovering the mouse over them - so I know which ones will be selected).
With my new Wacom I'm really getting into more experimentation with brushes, which led to several questions I'm hoping you'll help with answers or clarifications.
1. Based on what I've read it appears that I can create any number of brush sets for myself using an existing set as a model. If this is correct then I'm assuming that I can create these setss for most used or any other category? Do I understand this correctly?
2. In creating the new brush set, I think I read that I need to "delete" the brushes in the set but that they will not really be deleted? Is that so or should I make a copy first?
My PS is starting to get a little out of control and I hope one of you guys can steer me in the right direction with this.
I do quite a bit of stuff in hi rez (300 dpi) switching back and forth between actual pixel view and fit on screen modes. Recently my "fit on screen" mode wants to keep getting bigger and bigger and no longer snaps back to the correct screen size. Does anyone know how I can fix this?
The other question should be pretty simple. I want to change the default blending options. Things like stroke, inner and outter glow color etc.
I'm using a Coolpix 8800 and I am increasingly disatisfied with the results. Very few of the images that I take with this camera appear to me to be properly in focus. They seem to have a sort of soft focus effect.
This sort of chimes with a review I read recently in a magazine which gave it very poor ratings for the autofocus.
I am also not sure if I am expecting too much from it? Many images seem fine when viewed as fitted to screen or print size (viewing on LCD montior 1280/1024 screen resolution) but it's when viewing actual pixels that what I think is the poor results of autofocus are shown. Is something like screen resolution introducing an effect here that is illusory?
I'm shooting tif files and editing in CS2.
When you reduce the image quality of a jpeg image , How exactly is it reducing the quality? is it applying file compression , reducing bit depth or is it reducing the sampling rate of the image? or anything close to the above....
View 2 Replies View Relatedis it posible to get high quality image from low reolution image 100x100 ? i try using 2 software. paint.net and adobe photoshop cs6. here is the original image (115x140 px)
[URL]
and this is my result using paint.net (1000x1218 px) [URL] (cause of bwk i did not post it here. klik the minus link)
and this is result with photoshop [URL]
share with us if you know how to do better resample with high quality pixel.
Can you get certified on any version of photoshop or do you have to start at Photoshop 1.0? Once you're certified does your certificate "expire" ? Do you have to retake a test? If so how often?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm not well versed in color matching so I use an application called Color Wheel Expert to help me choose matching colors and what not. For awhile I've tried to figure out how I can accomplish the same sort of thing simply using Photshop's color Palette/Picker, but haven't been able to figure it out.
Is there a simple way to determine a color's complement, triad, etc while selecting a color? What about getting 'shades' of a particular color? I know you just add white to get shades, but how do you accomplish that inside the color picker?
I think I fully understand what levels are, and I no longer just mess with the sliders til I get what I want. I know what each does and how to use the ALT key modifyer to detect clipping. But I got some questions about other Photoshop (*choir sings*) features..
I don't understand what these are. Are they like levels for colors? I notice there is a Red, Green and Blue curve adjustment, but I'm not sure what it does and how to read the graph where I put dots and curves on to modify the Color Curve.
I am trying to create a web page with a header similar in shape to the one pictured below. I plan to use PS6/Image Ready to create the background and nav system , then slice it and add text w/tables and html. I've tried using the pen tool to draw the header, but then I can't fill it. Can anyone suggest a good tute or point me in the right direction?
View 3 Replies View RelatedIm using Corel Photo-Paint X5 and was wondering how to decrease or remove pixelation from the edges of a low quality photo? Iva attached a sample below
View 5 Replies View RelatedI had CS5 installed over a year ago and running without any display problems until recently. About a week ago I noticed severe banding in the high light areas of my images when I opened them in PS. At first I thought there was something wrong with my camera, or just plain bad images, until I realised that the images display without any banding in Windows Photo Viewer or any other viewer! I'm running Windows XP SP3.
I have not made any hardware, software or other changes recently (except installing a Nik S/W plugin – which I subsequently uninstalled but that did not solve the problem). Also no changes in colour profiles etc. I also updated CS5 to the latest version; disable/enabled Open GL acceleration in the preferences without any effect on the problem.
I run photoshop CS3 and I just created an image, saved it as a jpeg and uploaded it to my website. The image looks great when I open it from the folder in the computer but on my website it has lost quite a bit on image quality.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm Trying to make a Headshot. Using my (Epson Perfection 1260)Scanner, I scanned a Back and White(4"x6") Sharp Image Photo at (1200 dpi) and enlarged it to(7"x 9").
Using PhotoShop I Sharpend the Image. I printed at (1440 dpi) using Glossy Photo Paper with my "Epson Stylus Photo 750" Printer. The Image has turned out Grainy and not very clear as the original although it did manage to pickup up detail like lint on the photograph LOL.
I tried enlarging the image in PS and increased the amount of Pixels, instead of during the scanning process but that resulted in poorer quality image.
The Photos that remain the same size as the original turn out excellent photo quality images.
How do I enlarge a photo from a smaller image and maintain almost the same quality as the original? It seems I am losing resolution somewhere along the way.