I know that I am to click on the color palette, (which brings up the "color picker"), then I click on Custom, which brings up Custom Colors.....
this is where I get lost, I don't know what to do next to find the correct PMS color.
If anyone can help me, I would appreciate it so much! I just recently got a job at an advertising company, and it crucial that I know this.
I am fairly new to Photoshop, so if you could please keep the terminology simple.
I am trying to make business cards in Adobe Illustrator using the Pantone Color System. In my logo, the middle circle is a dark grey: C20 Y20 M20 K80. I can't find a suitable Pantone grey that is this dark. Pantone 425U is too light. Also, which Pantone Black is the darkest?
i acquired a design bundle inside of which i got over 200 gradients my first question would be who can tell me what exactly a pantone gradient is? and seeing how it's coming up to to christmas i feel like being generous so attached is a screenshots of most of the gradients if you want one, two or maybe even ten lol let me know and i will email them off to you i won't be uploading these to a file sharing site mainly because i don't trust them anyway, if you want any of them let me know which ones you want along with your email in a PM and i'll get them sent off to you asap.
Why is it that when i choose a Pantone colour from my Pantone book, then go into Photoshop and select the same Pantone colour number, the CMYK breakdown in my book is different to the one that Photoshop tells me?
My online printing outsource made a postcard containing my image and it came out about 1-1/2 stops too dark. When I questioned this I was advised as follows: "For best prediction of color output on a 4 color offset press, please compare your CMYK percentages with an industry-standard Pantone Process guide.">>This seems strange since a color image will have numerous different percentages of cmyk. I must be missing something. My friend who has the Pantone guide wants me to specify a Pantone number for use in comparing the image. I don't see how this can work for the same reasons (different colors, different percentages).>>The easiest solution I can think of is simply to brighten the image the next time I order postcards from this printer.>>
I just downloaded CC and was able to implement my workspace from CS6 and load presets. But color settings and other preferences along with screen colors etc are not how I want them. Any way to match everything with my CS6?Â
There is a noticeable difference between color values specified in Pantone books/Color Manager and CS6. For instance, the correct RGB value for Pantone 158 CP should be 228/126/26, whereas Photoshop's RGB value for the same color is 245/127/41. Â I have a subscription to Creative Cloud and all applications are up to date. When will this be fixed?
I have had some trouble since installing Lion and CS6 with colours. A good example is 362 green. It is the client's corporate colour. The swatch book had cmyk values of 70c 0m 100y 9k. So did the swatch selection in InDesign CS4 and earlier OSX. The new values are now 73c 13m 100y 1k. Quite a different colour. On screen and print. Â I am tempted just to rename the colour as 'Client X green' and use the old values. I just wonder if I should say "Mr Client, Adobe and Pantone have changed your colour" and not interfere.I have tried using Pantone Bridge selections, but they are different again.
I have (for example) an object set to spot color PMS 145 C 100% solid in an Adobe Illustrator drawing.
According to my Pantone Color Bridge Coated swatchbook, PMS 145 C "translates" to R 202 G 119 B 0.
BUT, if I "open" that AI file in Photoshop, and eyedropper that spot in the drawing, the RGB "translation" comes in as R 229 G 142 B 26.
I'm using CS2, and with Photoshop Color Settings at the default "North American General Purpose 2" at open time.
If I open the AI file as 300ppi CMYK, the spot color "translates" to the RGB values as above.
If I do this same operation with Photoshop set to open the AI file as 300ppi RGB, the same color eyedrops as R 230 G 143 B 26 (which is close, but not the same).
But NEITHER of these are the same as what Pantone publishes as the "official" equivalent RGB to the Spot color.
Why the discrepancy between Pantone's published equivalent and what Photoshop does?
I was just told by a printer that I need to convert my clients logo from CMYK to SPOT COLOR PANTONE? Though for the life of me I have never had to do this, I was told it is QUITE a procedure in Photoshop.
Let's say I have two pictures. The first one is a RAW file and the second is the same file, but a flat PSD with some color and contrast moves done to it.
What I want to do is to (of course start with processing the RAW file so I have a PSD/tiff) and then I would like to match the colors to 100%.
Usually I would do this by eye, but I would like to find out if there's any quicker way to do it? I started to look in to the color sampler tool to get the different values.
Preferably I would also like to have all these color and contrast moves in layers if possible. So that I can adjust them if I want.
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The second question is basically the same but this time the reference photo is a different picture.
I`ve found a background color for my web page and I like to get the same color in Photoshop to use it like background for my grafics.Hom can I get the exactly same colors when on my page it`s in HEX triplet numbers and in photoshop it`s in RGB & CMYK?
I have two images and I want to use parts of one to merge into another. How can I match grainess and brightness/contrast to make the new image look seamless.
i'm into photoshopping cars and i've got a rough idea on how to stitch bits and pieces of other cars together nicely, the problem is i still haven't a clue on how to match the colours of different cars to my target car (i.e. my car is blue but the bumper of another car is green, so how do i get that green to match my car's blue?)
i just really want to know how to get this done cause previously i was using the luminance thinggy and found it to work for SOME colours but it didn't look good.
I have the font close although i cant seem to match it exactly. But the crispness from the copied image from the web i can not match. The copied image text is very crisp. I can not match it with Photoshop. Why would this be? It doesn't matter what Alias setting i use and i tried a ton of fonts etc...
Im working on a series of images from a photoshoot.
I am having massive problems with getting the background of each image to match with one another. Each image seems to have a slightly different shade background, so basically they all look inconsistent together.
Is there anything i could do which would easily match the background from the different images together?
Using curves doesnt really help and when i do get it right (slightly similar), skin tones are then off.
The photos are done in a studio and evenly lit, the backgrounds are pale blue!
to resemble the same type of contrast/tones/colors as this picture:
i've tried using the constrast tool, and trying different hue saturation settings and lowering the opacity, but nothign really turns out as good as the ludacris cover.
I have been working on a gag project that involves placing different co-worker heads on different bodies. However, I have been having some difficulty matching the skin tones. I thought it would simply be a matter of using the eye-dropper tool, getting some average values on the face and body, then using an adjustment layer grouped to the face layer to adjust the color.
However, my results are often not even close. Is there a particular way I'm supposed to be adjusting the color?
I am currently working on a series of images for a calendar. All the photographs are portraits and were shot against the same backdrop.
I am working in Photoshop 7 and having scanned the images and given them a clean they all have different casts. Is there some way of matching the colour of one image to another, rather than attempting to do it by sight and botching it up?
I have 18 pictures that I want to have, for research purposes, EXACTLY the same luminance. The pictures are cut out faces and the background needs to stay white.
I'm changing car colours using Photoshop Quick Mask, Inverse and Layers functions. Works well but how do I match the new selected colour's hue/saturation/brightness exactly to a specific car paint colour I want?
1)When I view the same raw file with both Lightroom 2 & Photoshop CS3 the PS version is darker with a slight colour shift. All metadata synchronised & ACR 4.5
2) When I export a photo (from LR)as TIFF (with profile) this same photo viewed on both PS and LR shows the same difference as 1 above. When same photo viewed with ADC pro, result matches LR not PS.
3) When I print photo (as TIFF above) with PS & LR the prints from both match the LR display and not PS's
I use a calibrated display.
What is the problem here anyone? Does PS use display profile differently from LR? which is correct?
I travel around the country and use Photoshop for various projects. I then SAVE AS a TIFF file to my flash drive and take the flash drive to an office superstore (OfficeMax, Staples, Kinkos,etc.) to print on their color printers. I run into a variety of printers, but mostly Xerox DocuColor 250's or Docucolor 12's.
How can I set my Photoshop so that the colors that print on these Docucolor printers are closer to what I see on my screen? I'm already creating the documents in 300DPI, CYMK-8 mode to be as close to the printer as possible.
I have a client that would like to include a light pink metallic pantone color in a design. They want a metallic color similar to an existing light pink solid coated pantone color already in the design (image lighter color in mane) but when I look at the pantone metallic color books the colors seem dark (img darker color in mane)Â and there does not seem to be a metallic match for the light pink color.Â
