I am new to digital painting, and would like to get to know it better. Right now, I want to mimic the style of the attached image. My question is: how do I archive this look? (i.e. what brushes do I use, what tools? Blur? Smudge? etc.) (I am using CS5)
i'm speaking of painting with a tablet from scratch using brushes. i need something thorough. i've been looking but can only find concise tutorials that really don't tell me much.
i've sort of hit a road block. smudging colors together isn't getting it done for me anymore.
I was just wondering for photoshop how much pixelsfor canvas size everybody is used to using? Â I use photoshop (previously 7, CS3 in office, recently upgraded to CC) to draw comic strips, and quite often I just keep expanding the canvas vertically as I draw more panels.Now, of course common sense would dictate that the larger the file the slower your photoshop gets. I just noticed today that one of my files is getting sluggish, and yup, the height has gotten to 14000 pixels. Better crop that thing before it gets to the point I can't even open the file anymore. So I was just wondering if there was any rule around as to how big a file can get before it's too big to operate on photoshp.
I was working on a digital painting. I went a few states back in the historty palette and acidentally clicked on the snapshot at the top which brought me back to my original document, I have done hours of work since then! This wiped all of my history clean, how to get back to the last state I was in before I made the wrong click.
I have a task I have been attempting to complete for some time now. I am trying to turn my scanned pencil drawing into a digital painting with Photoshop.
here is a simple way to start practicing organic painting in photoshop using greyscale. I have used this same technique on all of my digital paintings.
1. Start with a medium grey as the background color. you can go to edit/fill/ then select 50% grey, or just double click the black brush color and select a grey halfway between the white and the black.
This will the the middle ground for the entire painting.
2. Take the elliptical marquee tool (the top left corner of the tool pallet.) on your canvas hold shift and click and drag to make a perfect circle on the background.
Create a new layer and name it shadows.
Start to paint using a soft, 5% opacity brush around the bottom of the circle where the shadow would be if it were a sphere... start really light and work big. then as it gets darker work smaller and more detailed. i start with a brush size of around 125. when your done it should look like this (it should not be totally black anywhere)
3. Create a new layer and name it highlights.
on this layer do the same as you did with the shadow but on the top side of the sphere using white. Add white where the light source would be hitting it . work large and work your way dont to smaller detailed areas (there should not be much detail with a sphere.)
4. Now after this is finished open a new layer and name it shadow and glow. you can add a shadow below the sphere. what i did was use the elliptical marquee tool to create an oval what would be the shadow of the sphere. after you paint the shadow, erase the part of the shadow that you can see over the sphere. ten ad a blur to it. you can use the gaussian blur and mess with the sliders untill you find one you like. the shadow must line up with the light source. for example if the light source is on the right side the shadow cannot be on the right side. once yo have the elliptical marquee selected fill it in with a 5% opacity brush untill it is dark enough to match the shadow on the lower side of the sphere.
also, some things you can do is add a bit of glow around the top of the sphere. this will be the light that is bouncing off the top. also add some highlight to the bottum of the sphere. this is where the light will bounce up from under the sphere . both of these highlights, or glows should be very subtle.
I would like to take a personal photo (like the one attached) against a solid off-white wall and then fill the background with a pattern (again, see the one attached). The idea is to have the digital pic look like it was taken against a professional background . . . how might i do this? I searched for the past 30 minutes and havent come up with an answer so i thought i'd post and see what you guys thought.
Just installed Lightroom 4, more than 60000 images were imported. Many of them were duplicates, triplets and so on. I want to have a clean, unincombured library. Should I delete the 60000 images and reinstall the images from my photo digital cards or use the slow process of "X" out the unwanted images? I would like to start improving my images vs removing the unwanted images.
I just got a new digital camera today (Canon Powershot Pro1). source that explains print resoultion?
My camera is 8 megapixel and I'd like to be able to print some of my images after doing some minor adjustments to the images. I have never had to print from photoshop and want the best quality possibe.
storing and backing up large numbers of images? I need to accesses them on a regular basis and at reasonable speeds. This would be primarily Macs on a network. I need 3 terabytes of storage and an additional 3 of RAID or similar backup. For budgetary reasons the MAC X Serve is not an option.
I have a G6 Canon digital camera that I primarily shoot JPG images with, and wanted to experiment with raw images.
I took about 15 RAW images the other day with this camera and tried to open up. I went to canon and downloaded their Zoombrowser 6.0, which I can view the RAW files, but it does not edit them. I'm looking for something similar to Adobe Camera raw to hopefully view and edit them.
opening the photo. I had to remove the photo for obvious reasons.
I am looking for a procedure to make sketch drawings out of digital photos using Photoshop. I have read some postings on this website, but they were based on using a Mac so the commands were not the same on my version. Please note that these sketches will be of technical matter and not people (if that makes a difference?).
I like to repair books with missing pages. Often I can get digital images in tiff or PDF format, but they are often 'dirty', like the one attached. This one seems a good example of the sort of thing I would need to work on.
I need to reconstruct the image, which I think would mean: i) getting an image that is complete and rectangular with a bleed out of in the same colour. ii) remove blemishes like library marks, names etc. iii) reconstruct the decayed text as sensitively as possible.
Just as a pre-amble, I love LR and perform 90% of image processing with it (rest in PS). I use a Canon EOS 5D MKIII shooting in RAW, running LR5 on Win7. My monitor is properly calibrated. Â Every so often I view a RAW image with Canon DPP mostly to display the AF point. What I am noticing is that the DPP SW renders the image very different from LR and I tried every LR Profile. In my opinion the DPP rendering is sharper, with less noise and a more natural look. My latest example of the difference in image rendering is from images taken with the Canon 200-400 1.4 zoom lens. This difference in image rendering is after RAW import with no images editing on either application. I just wish there would be a LR profile that yields a similar quality image.
I am having trouble with .emf files. My boss has created schematics in Microsoft Visio and converted them to .emf images so that I can insert them into AutoCAD and create various drawings. However I have tried a couple of different ways of importing the images into CAD (copy paste, drag'n'drop etc..) and they all seem to work fine but when I print the drawing or close it and re-open it, the schematic .emf image disappears completely.
I want to make colouring book pictures for my students from photographs of themselves (want to see kids get excited about something - give them a picture of themselves to colour in). Right now I am using the cartoon filter, desaturating the image and then painstakingly selecting by colour, each greyscaled set of pixels and then cutting them so that in effect, the image becomes a traced black and white image. I am wondering if there is an easier way to do this - I have tried using the threshold and levels filters - but I find that it makes the image too pop-arty, like those Che Guevara type T-shirt graphics. Ideally I want to literally make the image look like colouring book picture or a stamp. Is there an easier way to do that without having to pick and delete the greyscaled parts of the image?
I want to change the names of my files to YYYMMDD-City-State, type of format.. I tried using the file naming template but all that show on the photos is the date.file extension.
I'm trying to make the edge of this image like the colors on a soap bubble, I've looked at tutorials for doing soap bubbles. It's not usually included in it. Sort of a blurred shiny transparent coloring if that describes it at all.
I have 7.0. I scanned in a drawing, saved as jpg and now wish to use the paintbrush on it. however, as soon as I click on the picture to paint, the entire picture moves, and the brush is not active.
In the photoshop user sept. issue magazine there is a tutorial of how to make a photograph into an oil painting by way of photoshop and painter IX, my question is, how can i complete the oil painting look from a photograph/image by just using photoshop and if I can ,
I'm using AI CC now, but I noticed this problem in earlier versions of AI: If I want to place a one-word label on an illustration I move the type insertion cursor to a speific point on the screen image and click, but then the flashing insertion point, where the label will actually start, pops up elsewhere, usually a line or two above where the cursor was, and a pica or two to the left, forcing me to type the label, then move it into position rather than simply typing it in the right place and moving on. The problem is merely annoying, but I'd like to fix it. It's probably a matter of ignorance-I simply haven't read the right documentation, but I don't know what to call the problem. Where can I find out how to change the position of the cursor relative to the insertion point?
I want to create text on a circle path, so drew the circle, went to the "type on a path tool" and clicked on the circle. I keep getting the message "can't create type". I have tried to use the direct selection tool to select the circle first and without the direct selection.
My Type Tool does not select type by double clicking or click and drag. (Windows CS 5 V15.1). This is what I have tried so far and the problem still exists. Â Check preferences for "Text": "Select text-object by path only" should be off. Checked. It was off. Didn't fix it. Check the toggle for Show/Hide Edges in the View menu. Cmd(Ctrl)-H. Checked. Edges Showing. Didn't fix it. Trashed my Prefeerences. Didn't fix it.
the type tool won't let me insert any type whatsoever in JPG or PSD files. I click the type tool and then click somewhere on the image and all it gives me is a dot but no flashing cursor. As I said, resetting my prefs/settings while starting up Photoshop did not help. Another weird thing it does is that when I go to Canvas Size for a medium sized image, it says that the width is 588 inches and the height is 288 inches.
