Photoshop :: CS5 - Sharpening Part Of Image
Apr 8, 2013Any method for sharpening only a part of an image not the whole picture with Photoshop CS5?
View 3 RepliesAny method for sharpening only a part of an image not the whole picture with Photoshop CS5?
View 3 Replieshow I would go about sharpening an image?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have an image that's good quality when small. I want to enlarge the image, however, when I do so, it becomes all pixelated and poor quality. Is it possible to enlarge the image so its still good quality.
View 2 Replies View RelatedWhen sharpening images, I find it leaves halos around the image edges. How can avoid this effect when sharpening an image?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI am pretty new to Photoshop but learning fast. This is my first post so if it should have been in Beginner's section please let me know. My question is, is there real value in the Sharpener Pro or Photokit Sharpener plugins over using the CS2 unsharp. I am currently converting RAW files to LAB and sharpening the image on the L channel then returning the image to sRGB.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI've got a few images that the depth-of-field was off & focused on the background not the subject. Now the subject is fairly blurred and I have used the sharpening tool and some other areas in the filter catogory & it still doesnt look good.
way to sharpen the subject up?
I have a PNG image with only one layer as a start point. It has a faded map on it.
I have a second PNG image with a hex grid on it. I do colour to Alpha to establish transparency on the hex grid for white filled hexes (others are not filled with white).
Now, I wish to overlay a portion of the first image with the faded map with the non-transparent part of the second image.
So I select by colour (for the hexes not filled with white) on the second image (the overlay) and I then paste to the first image (after creating a transparency layer and selecting it to receive the overlay).
I see the desired overlay section (minus any transparent stuff as expected), however it is centered over the map in the first image, not where I want it to be. It is a floating selection and must be anchored. So I select the anchor icon in the layer dialog and I think I anchor it into the transparency layer on the first image (that's what I'm trying to do anyway).
And then my problem:
I want to move the thing I just pasted in to the right place with respect to the underlying faded map. I attempt to use the move tool, but all I move is the background map (pretty much the opposite of what I want).
Nothing I do seems to let me reselect the pasted-in overlay so that I can move it.
Why I can't ever reposition the pasted in overlay? It should be in the transparency layer I created but even if I select all, I don't seem to be able to move anything other than the background image.
I was just wondering as to whether its possible to keep the checkered base which you get when you remove part of an image or have it transparent to stay in the created image.
I am sure you all know this.
Here is the YouTube background which I have created and wondering if I am able to keep the checkered base or whatever in the image after I have saved it rather than print screening and pasting it back like a jigsaw puzzle.
I have attached and image to a surface of a part and when I bring it back to AutoCad I can not see the image.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have been using gimp now for about 2 months and have just upgraded my OS to Mavericks and upgraded Gimp to 2.8.8.
Upon doing this I seem to have lost the ability to copy/cut an image or part thereof from one open image into another... Example:
I have an image window open with a picture a car and I have an image window open with a race track back ground.
I want to copy the car from image 1 into image 2, but for some reason I cannot do this function anymore. When attempting it, once the item is copies to the clipboard and I then swap to the second image, when I paste as a new layer it pastes the clipboard from that image and not the image from the first window...
My last step in processing is sharpening. After the application the photo does not look like it was sharpened. If I use my zoom button up one level than the photo is sharp. When I run slideshow in Bridge this lack of sharpening also appears here.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have low-light photo taken at 1600 iso and I'd like to de-noise it and sharpen it a bit with high pass. Will it matter which comes first?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI was using Focalblade with CS3 but apparently it does not run with CS4 64bit.
View 29 Replies View RelatedI use the lab colour system for sharpening my images, Ive done it loads of times with no probs. Tonight though; when I select lab colour from the menu my image goes black! I still get the four channels - Lab, Lightness, a and b but the lab channel is black instead of the usual full colour image, anyone had this happen to them? I've tried all the usual reboot and reset preferences things but no change.
View 9 Replies View RelatedI have this great photo of me and my boyfriend, I've already cropped and changed the color levels (its a bit washed out now, but it was WAY too dark and red earlier)
seanissocute.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
the photo is a bit blurry, but the sharpen filters do NOTHING. And when I try to sharpen only certain sections it gets too grainy.
I know about the sharpen tool, but whenever I use it the picture just takes on a grainy look. Is there any way to sharpen blurry images without affecting the overall look of the image?
View 4 Replies View RelatedIve been creating graphics in PS for a website im putting together with html/css.
Most of them are simply coloured boxes with text in them. Ive used anti aliasing and unsharpen mask on the images just before i save them but they're not as sharp as id like them to be, or as sharp as i have seen web grpahics before.
way of getting these graphics sharper?
how to achieve this look, particularly on the color and sharpening technique.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI normally use Unsharp Mask, Amount: 100 / Radius: .5 / Threshold: 0 -- followed by Fade with Luminosity Mode. Recently I've started experimenting with the Hi Pass Filter. There seems to be many different tutorials on sharpening, each one's method slightly different. I'd be interested in other user's favorite methods and why.
View 39 Replies View RelatedHow can i add structure sharpening to a photo? Nik plugins like silver efex , or viveza 2 have a structure feature, they add sharpening to a photos and contrast and amplify micro details. I tried to do it in Photoshop with high pass but i was not able .
View 3 Replies View RelatedI'm using two Mac computers, both with PS CS5 12.0.4, ACR 6.6.0, and OS x10.6.8. On one computer, PS and ACR work fine. On the other, I have the following problem:
When I apply Sharpening in the ACR Detail panel, setting all the sliders, then open the image in PS as a smart object, the sharpening has not taken effect on the image in PS. When I re-open the image in ACR, I find that the Amount slider in the Sharpening panel has re-set itself to zero. The other sliders in the panel are still where I had set them.
However, the output sharpening in the ACR Workflow Options area does take effect in PS, and appears to be working fine. I just re-installed everything, but no improvement. As I said, it all works on the other computer, so I have a reference for what PS should do.
how Photoshop CC's Smart Sharpening differs from Lightroom (and ACR's) sharpening in the Detail panel? Do they approach sharpening differently? Is one more powerful than the other, and if so, in what way? Are there particular circumstances under which you find it worthwhile to use SS rather than stay with LR/ACR? (I do see that SS allows one to control the effect in highlights and shadows.)
I have generally been sticking with LR sharpening, but want to be able to answer these questions intelligently (and be aware of circumstances where I should take the time to open PS and use SS).
I mod this old game and the textures are low res, they are alright on characters but the weapons get all fuzzed and horrible, it looks like nothing has changed from when they were low res.
i am doubling the size here. possibly tripling if the game will allow it. but they don't seem to really make a difference even when i try to smooth them out or sharpen them up. I use High pass and maximum, and then put them both on soft light over the original texture, before merging them and using unsharp mask.
How to make them look better when i'm doubling the size. using JUST photoshop, i can't afford all the fancy plugins at the moment.
here's a visual example for you:
Low Res:
ScreenShot8.bmp
High Res:
ScreenShot1.bmp
there's virtually no change. fix this little problem Vbulletin has with.bmp files?
I'm currently trying to use one photo as back ground and then use part of a second photo as a layer over the top of the first pic (as the background). Can't seem to get it to work at all! Hard as the part of the 2nd pic is a lion which needs cutting round.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have CS6 with the most recent updates and RAW 7.1.
First: When I crop an image (I am using the new crop tool), and I make sure I have cropped it (hit enter after adjusting the box), if I then try to use the Lens Correction filter, it will not load the cropped version of the image but only the uncropped version. (CS5 did NOT do this). This makes using the Vignetting tool impossible to use, since when the image gets sent back to the main PS window, it shows up as cropped again, and the area corrected is out of range! The only way I can now use the tool is to save the cropped image to a new file and then open it up in a new PS window and THEN edit it with the lens correction filter.
Second: When I was trying to open and process some RAW files today, whenever I used the sharpening tool, it would preview just fine on the RAW window, but when I opened the file after finishing my adjustments, all of the adjustments would still be there EXCEPT the sharpening and NR ones. It did not matter if I saved the image to different file types, or opened it directly; the adjustments made with that set of tools were lost outside of the RAW window. This is definitely not the way CS5 worked.....and it seems like a bug.
Third: I know this is not a bug, how to change what the files do, since I can't find where to set this. When I open a JPG file, if I do any work to it at all, it then automatically gets saved as a PSD file unless I select JPG from the pulldown menu. How in the world can I get this pulldown to NOT automatically go to PSD when I am working with JPGs? It is an extra step that just gets in my way.
I have a Window Vista64 Intel Core2Quad CPU Q7600 processor machine with 6GB RAM and a Nvidia GeForce GT 430, with the latest updates.
Output sharpening in Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) and Photoshop CS5 I want to do two-pass sharpening - capture and output - with output capture done just before I print. I do the initial (capture) sharpening in the ACR Detail/Sharpening panel, with Amount slider set to, for example, 100. Then, I open the image to PS CS5 as a Smart Object, and use layers and masks for further editting.
My question is, can I go back to ACR for the final (output) sharpening pass? When I re-open the file in ACR, the Sharpening Amount slider is back to zero, but the other three sliders are still at the settings I used at the start of the process, i.e., the capture sharpening. If I again set the Amount slider to a positive value, then again open the image in PS for printing, will my second pass through the ACR Sharpening panel take effect - will it accumulate on top of the initial sharpening?
By the way, the reason I want do output sharpening in ACR rather than, say, PS Unsharp Mask, is so I can use the Masking slider in ACR, which is much easier than the comparable techniques available in PS. I am aware that some say you should not do any masking for the output sharpening. I'd like to though.
Since I started using Lightroom and Photoshop I've always wanted to know how I can make a photo look like it does when I press alt and adjust the sharpening mask slider in Lightroom. Here's an example of what I mean:
And here's the photo while pressing alt and moving the Mask slider:This effect is just a tool to show you where the mask is being applied but I think it's a cool effect and I have a project in mind where I want to make a set of photos look this way. It must be possible in photoshop but I'm not quite sure how to do to. I've tried using a high-pass filter, converting to B&W, and inverting the colours but it not quite the same thing; it obviously tends to just look like an inverted B&W. These images however look more like those pictures you made when you were a kid by covering waxed paper with black crayon and then scratching it off in places to make an image.
I am working on the logo for my company's website. Heres my prob. at 100% this image is fine, but every time I resize (smaller) I end up with pixelation / fuzz on a couple letters (Particularly the P).
This is my original, click it because otherwise the "dot" is pixelated.
This is my resize:
How can I go about sharpening up the smaller images so the text entities look as good as the big image? Is there some trick to resizing that I dont know? I feel stupid asking about this it seems like I know how already and just can't remember.
how to enlarge part of a RAW image
View 6 Replies View RelatedUsing XP with PS CS4.
I am going to attach an image so that I can illustratate what I am trying to achieve here..
You should see a white hose like object against a gray background. I cannot show the whole image, let's just say that above and below it, it gets complicated, meaning not just a plain gray background and the hose isn't all that straight.
I do have the white part as a path, but what I am looking to do is to thin the white part. I can assume you can't go wrong with the clone tool, but I was wondering if there was something better as I do not have a steady hand with the mouse and I do have a few of these images on hand to edit.
I'll post up the part of the image , within the image there is a Picture frame and im just looking to remove it so that it looks like a clear wall.
Its the picture frame above the guys shoulder, ill post up the full image.