Any way to use a whole color layer as a grayscale or color mask (without having to destruct it), and would save on extra layers to mimic the effect of JUST MOVING THE COLOR OVERLAY BEHIND THE COLOR INFORMATION. add a "render color layer in back", or something like that.
I love hitting backslash when I paint on a layer mask, which shows the red overlay so I can see better what I'm doing. I somehow changed the red to a color that doesn't show up well. How do I change that back to red?
when i wanna change the colour of a shape/photo etc i often use the colour overlay option becuase it lets me eye drop to the colour i want. The problem is that i cant apply effects to this picuture/shape later as the colour overlay still has priority, ie if i wanna put a texture on it it still shows the colour overlay. Is there a way to merge the layer so it takes on all effects and i can apply new ones?
I generally do my dodging and burning with an overlay layer. When burning, I typically have opacity set between 10 and 15%, and pain with a black brush. The layer is an overlay layer with 50% gray fill.
THIS MAY HAVE BEEN HAPPENING WITH CS5, IN WHICH CASE I'M CRAZY, SO JUST TELL ME, BUT I DON'T RECALL EVER SEEING THIS..........
BUT, when I burn in CS6, instead of just darkening the area, it APPEARS I'm also getting a color shift. I've checked to make SURE my colors are white and black (black in this case), and I've tried changing the mode of the brush from normal to luminosity just to see if that would make a difference.
I created a simple layer shape using the elipse shape tool, and applied a color overlay (blue) layer effect to that shape. The applied color overlay doesn't fill the entire shape (see image) making it look like the shape has a very wide stroke applied to it (it doesn't). If I "copy merged" the pasted copy is a rasterized version of the problematic overlay. If I rasterize the layer, the fill then covers the entire shape.
Jpeg below. Shape is black, color overlay is blue. There is no other effect applied. Blend mode normal, opacity 100%. The image upload won't let me attach the layered PSD file.
I have a new kitcarn (picture attached) that I want to change the color of but I want to overlay a few different colors on the car first so I can get a feel for how it might look, I just don't know how to go about selecting just the body of the car as this is all I want to change... is it just a matter of creating a duplicate layer and then carefully and slowly using a select tool go around the sections that I want to color and color them in?
I don't know which color I want the car yet so would like to know how to do it myself?
Is there a way to, as in Photoshop's effects gallery, create a color-overlay on an already-done gradient in Illustrator CS 5.1? I've already done the gradient and I have my color, but can't quite make it work.
How can I control the stack order of a shape layer with the path arrangement option on the shape tool options menu? It seems to me that this control does not do anything with shape layers ... does not control anything. How can I use this option?
For the background image halfway down, there's a totem pole sort of "merged" in with the color. But it's not simply an overlay blend mode or opacity change. It has essentially seemed to adopt an entire palette based on the background color itself.
I think I recall a way to create this effect in Photoshop, but in GIMP I'm stuck. How would one go about making that "color overlay", given any regular picture and a colored background? I'm doing this for a website, by the way.
I am looking to generate a planetary gear arrangement similar to the picture attached. I am looking for a 6:1 ratio between the outer sput gear and the inner sun gear.
what determines the order in which the windows tile? I can see that the window I have active, goes to the upper left. But I would like to see some consistency that when I hit WT, that all the views go to the quadrant I want the to. Is this random, or logical?
I pasted the same graduated filter arrangement into several hundred action photos. I then slog through them in capture order, nudging them one way or another depending on crop and subject. On the next photo, the first time I click and drag --the filter NEVER moves! I must release and reclick to get it to move. This becomes highly annoying after a while. Enough so to write this.
I am trying to automate the sorting and movement of older photos into my preferred directory arrangement of capture year/day shown here:
From directories of older directories that were imported before I started using year/day:
This would be very tedious to do manually. My next idea is to re-import them with MOVE option, but I would lose all the editing. Is there any way to re-import these while preserving the edit steps?
I have found what I can only assume is a bug. I have a PSD file that when opened in CS5 looks as it should. When I open it in CS6 any shape with a gradient overlay displays as black. When I choose Save for Web it displays correctly in the save window, but the file displays the shapes as black in the regular Photoshop view.
I used to use Ps normally, but since I've reinstalled my Windows recently so I had to reinstall Ps as well. However, when I used Gradient Overlay, it didn't work out correctly as it's supposed to do: no matter how I configured the option, it just filled a solid color instead of a gradient (as number 1 in picture). When I clicked reverse, it filled with the other solid color. Number 2 I used Gradient Tools to make it easier to compare.
We just upgraded at work to CS6 and overlay blending isn't working like it did in CS5.
Overlay used to multiply values below 50% and add screen above 50% regardless of what the layer underneath looked like. I'm not sure what's going on now.
Am I the only one seeing this? Is there a setting somewhere to get it back to working the way it was? I haven't seen any documentation on the change and a search of the support shows no one else complaining about the same issue. But me and my coworkers are all seeing the same issue.
I have one main image and what i now want to do is have a much smaller image, that will overlay the main one and place it in the corner say of the main image, so you can see both images,
I am working with DVDit pro 6.0 and I am trying figured out how to make a background menu and the overlay layer that goes with it.
I am able to make an overlay layer with the following path: Layer/New/Layer and choosing Overlay in the Mode section. The thing that I don't understand is how to work with this Overlay layer .
I understand that the overlay is the subpicture but i'm a little lost. For example, if I have a button which is a picture and I want that the overlay color would be yellow. How to make this work?
I have using the overlay feature in Photoshop for two years now. It's always worked well, I put a solid color on one layer, a black and white image on a layer above it, choose overlay, and the black and white image takes on the color from the layer below, keeping all the contrast of the original photo. It's why I like this instead of just changing the opacity, which just lightens and washes the image out, even though the color shows through. Now suddenly when I try to do the same thing I've always done, it takes on the color but I get all these bright blown out areas. I have always worked in CMYK as it's for print. I tried making the image black and white and copying it directly from the grayscale file and pasting it into the CMYK file, and I've tried making it a grayscale image, and then turning it back into a CMYK before I paste it into the actual CMYK file I'm working with. Both ways have the same bad result. It's almost as though a preference accidently got changed but I can't find what it might be.
I am trying to create a business card and do something that is probably very simple but I have no clue. I would like to have this white faded overlay done on a photograph I load like what is done on the business card
As for the photograph I load I would like to make the background on it completely bright white even though its not in the photo.
I made this image for printing onto t-shirts, but the printer came back and said that it was far too low a quality. only 23dpi when they require at least 72 and preferably up to 300dpi. I tried to increase the resolution but fell back on trying to remake the image.