I work in crop research and have written a code to analyze an RGB image and determine if a pixel is senescence, crop, residue/soil, or shadow. However, this only works if the color is balanced in an image.
I do not know what the technical definition of balanced color is, but to me it relates to the RGB curves one can see in the curves mask. Over the last 5 years a colleague of mine has taken thousands of photos that I need to analyze with my system, unfortunately some have blue hues, some are overexposed, and some are just flat.
Is there any way to apply ratios or mathematical equations to the curves panel so that all images have a similar balance that will work with the code I wrote?
(below I included a few images to give you a feel for the variance)
I find that if I have some video that has poor color, if I grab a still from it and bring it into GIMP, GIMP does a good job on correcting it.
Now, I'd like to know what color correction settings were applied by that filter so that I can go back to my video editing package and apply similar color corrections across the entire video clip, not just the still.
I'm ready to start organizing my dad's pictures. As from now I have 1330 pic's scanned and I want to enhance them. I found out that a lot of pics need to have a new White Balance. To do this one by one will take me a year. So, the question is: How to manipulate this "auto white balance" for a lot of selected pictures?
I have noticed that using "Stretch Contrast" gives a much more contrasty image than using the "White Balance" option. Isn't it supposed to be the other way round based on the description?
I'm using the GIMP 2.8.0 for Windows.
Also "Stretch Contrast" is very close to "Normalize" and "Normalize" does seem to shift color in exactly the same way as the "Stretch Contrast" option, although based on the description, it shouldn't.
I want to make a script-fu with the White Balance auto correction(Colors->Auto->White Balance).I couldn't find any procedure/plug-in in the procedure browser that do that.
How to call this procedure? or, it there a way to do it manually?
I am an underwater photographer and white balance is an important issue. I was advised to set the white balance in my camera (Nikon D90) to the color temp of my strobes ( 4800 K) so my subject lighted by by strobes would have the correct color. When I import the RAW (NEF) file into lightroom I would expect that the color temp shown in develop mode would be 4800 K.
Unfortunately it is not. It even differs from picture to picture. I would like to know why and if something can be done about this?
What is wrong with my GIMP? This behavior persists in every 2.6 and 2.8 build I've tried, in fact I'm pretty sure I first discovered it somewhere in 2.4 .
It's GTK bug #644032 - certain adjustments made to the Hue-Saturation tool (with overlap) may have problems handling the red/magenta wraparound properly. Which was supposed to be fixed eons ago (and with exception of this one specific usecase, it already WAS - see GTK #527085).
It originally happened while trying to adjust the color balance on a scanned image containing ambiguously red/magenta hues (yes I know we have an actual tool for Color Balance, but I've never been able to quite wrap my head around what adjustments yield which results). I have attached a sample file demonstrating expected vs. actual results with this usecase. My GIMP is clearly screwing the pooch on these adjustments ... but HOW, because even when I browse the online git repo the relevant source code looks like it should work perfectly (I've even mentally stepped through it and verified correct results, unlike my actual GIMP).
Try performing the same adjustments on your GIMP (note which build and version) - do you get the same results I do?
Okay so I'm trying to take the white background off of a picture using the select a color on white, but it takes out a lot or the fur and eyes(it's a picture of a cartoon cat) How can I remove the areas of can from the selection without removing the pieces of cat too.
It's creative commons, so I guess I can post screen shots...
The cat is from [URL]...
A general idea of the selected area
What happens when I take out the selected area
So how can I take the pieces of the cat out of the selected area so when I try to delete the background I don't get an invisible cat?
When I use the 'Convert to Black and White' menu option in Photoshop Elements 10, it does a good job, but it still leaves the file in RGB format (Colour)??
I am working for a Publishers, and I keep forgetting to convert the file to Grayscale after running the Wizard.
Wouldn't it have been easier to add this as an option at the end, and have they done this in Photoshop Elements 11 (or later...)?
White balance. Shooting With my Canon 5D, shooting RAW, I choose Auto White balance. At the end I shoot a Gray-Card with the same Lighting that I had. Later I open the image with the Gray-Card inside the camera raw, and I select it with the white balance tool. then I get the perfect White Balance. I personally like the Gray-Card which has from very light gray to very dark gray. I'm still using Photoshop CS5. Now there are many products out there such as Color Checker. How I can get better color Balance or Color Correction using those 3rd party products. Also My Monitor is calibrated using Data Color spydare 3Elite.
Is there a way to quickly white balance pictures in photoshop? I know with other products you can click on something that is white or gray in the photo and it will automatically white balance the photo.
What I want to be able to do is click on an area of a photo, and then tell paint.net that I want this to be WHITE - and adjust the rest of the photo accordingly. ie, an object photographed on a white background that is tinted due to incandescent lighting etc.
I know this feature exists in photoshop elements. Is it available in paint.net?
I have read several article on the ability to us a gray card in a photo and then adjusting the white balance in Camera Raw or CSII. How do you achieve this?
I shot some photos (jpg's) outdoors with the white balance set on tungsten. I have access to PS CS and can navigate it pretty easily, but have little photographic experience and don't have a particularly good eye for color adjustments.
I'm new to Lightroom so bear with me. My problem lies in the import process: each time I import, a yellow tint (tungsten WB) is added to each photo, as if the white balance is being changed. I know that thumbnails are created in camera, but the photos look fine when Lightroom is "loading" them on the library screen, it is only when the "loading" message goes away that they look too yellow. I don't want to apply an import preset because I fear that each photo's problem is unique. When I use quicklook in finder, the images look fine. When I export as a jpeg from LR, the problem persists. Here's what I'm using:
I've read that this could be caused by a corrupt color profile, but I'm not sure how to change this on a Mac and if it's appropriate to apply sRGB as a monitor profile.
I just bought a new computer and i have been running LR5 on a Lenovo b540 aio pc. i had no issues on this machine other than slow processing and lag due to insufficient memory and processor. my new machine is a standard desktop with a seperate monitor. when i installed LR5.3 and import files, they turn out to be a very "manilla envelope" color but not until after importing them. i dont understand why this is happening. it is probably something very simple that i am overlooking.
using the White Balance Tool in Camera RAW.I have sometimes heard that I need to select a naturally white point (as opposed to a specular / highlight point); but I have also heard that I need to select a neutral gray point.
My preferred medium for photography is underwater, so it is crucial the white balance is set to the area and depth of the shot. When I use Photoshop CS3 to develop the shot in RAW, as soon as I click on to the shot in bridge it instantly reverts back to the default white balance, In UK fresh waters this usually means a strong green cast.
I have a photo i am enhancing in which my point of focus at center (an arch structure) is being colored by artificial holiday lighting and there are sodium-vapor street lamps surrounding it on adjacent streets with the foreground dark asphalt and objects (I used a wide angle) having a yellowish hue. I want to know what is the best way to localize the center arch, leave that with it's own adjustment (of 5600K) and bring down the rest of the image with the yellow-orange tinge down to 2500-3200K (or otherwise have them look like nice xenon or white fluorescent lamps) with good blending (so the intersection of both lighting does not look stilted) and while keeping the same tonal range. Global adjustments are just not doing it for me here. Layers and blending? Gradients? What would you recommend? Please post anything that also relates to adjusting for conflicting lighting locally and any limits on this.
I am still baffled with matching the color - tint .
If I copy paste something on another image . I get crude red -green-blue + - world adjustments . I sample the color numbers to match still no luck . The saturation / Hue adjustments are semi helpful .
I end up with a flat gray bluish skin tone , Is their a color temp lighting corrector , talking from my kodak paper-photo printing 70s flashback years.
click path to fine tint / color correction for skin tones?
on my LR 3. IT used to be right under "Histogram" and above "Tone Balance" in Deveolop and now it is simply gone! I dont know if it was because of software updates or ?
LR3.4.I have a whole selection of photos that were taken at an event where there was 2 types of lighting, so the people in the back of the shots have a warm orangey glow and the people at the front have the day light. What would be ideal option to adjust the white balance on 2 separate areas, but I can't seem to find this in Lightroom? is it possible or will I need to export 2 versions and merge in photoshop etc?
Is it possible to change a setting or preference in Lightroom so that the white balance selector tool will give a 0-255 value reading, instead of a 0-99 value? Having that option would allow users to better correlate their readings with what will show up once the images is analyzed with Photoshop's eyedropper tools and info window.
