I find that if I have some video that has poor color, if I grab a still from it and bring it into GIMP, GIMP does a good job on correcting it.
Now, I'd like to know what color correction settings were applied by that filter so that I can go back to my video editing package and apply similar color corrections across the entire video clip, not just the still.
This is my first experience with GIMP.
I'm ready to start organizing my dad's pictures. As from now I have 1330 pic's scanned and I want to enhance them. I found out that a lot of pics need to have a new White Balance. To do this one by one will take me a year. So, the question is: How to manipulate this "auto white balance" for a lot of selected pictures?
I have noticed that using "Stretch Contrast" gives a much more contrasty image than using the "White Balance" option. Isn't it supposed to be the other way round based on the description?
I'm using the GIMP 2.8.0 for Windows.
Also "Stretch Contrast" is very close to "Normalize" and "Normalize" does seem to shift color in exactly the same way as the "Stretch Contrast" option, although based on the description, it shouldn't.
I want to make a script-fu with the White Balance auto correction(Colors->Auto->White Balance).I couldn't find any procedure/plug-in in the procedure browser that do that.
How to call this procedure? or, it there a way to do it manually?
I shot an event for a couple (a reception) and I didn't have my gray card so I set my Canon 5D mkII on auto white balance (shooting with a Canon 24-70 2.8 and a Sigma 85 1.4). As you'll see from the two example photos - the shots taken in the venue lobby looked fine, but the shots from inside the event itself were amazingly saturated. The room had a ton of very bright uplighting in purple and pink - the shots looked fine in the viewfinder, but once I brought them into LR4, there was a nearly complete purple/pink cast over everything. Setting the white balance in LR to auto, tungsten, flourescent - nothing worked. Adjusting the temp sliders - only slightly better. Reducing vibrance and saturation useful a little more, but I'm really having a hard time finding a fix!
View 6 Replies View Relatedhow do i get the drop down box in white balance to allow me to change the white balance
View 1 Replies View RelatedI would like to know how the white balance is calculated on GIMP.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have some jpg files with a wrong white balance.Flash refused by taking the picture.How can i correct this in GIMP?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am trying to come up with a script for batch processing since i have 800 pictures that need editing.
(define (do-many dir) (let* ((files-list (car (cdr (file-glob dir 0)))) (do-one (lambda (f) (gimp-color-balance)))) (plug-in-color-enhance RUN-NONINTERACTIVE image drawable) (plug-in-unsharp-mask RUN-NONINTERACTIVE image drawable 5.0 0.5 0) (map do-one files-list)))
Now i tried this in the console but the script stops no matter what part i try to fix.
Is there any way to apply auto safe white/black point limiter to video and the same with audio?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm trying to make a texture for a model in a video game, and I want some of it to be transparent. This is done by editing a text file that tells the model to use the textures alpha channel. things in the alpha channel that are white are transparent and things that are black aren't.
But I don't really know how to edit the textures alpha. Here is a video I've seen that explains how to make one in photoshop: [URL]......
How to do exactly what he does in gimp? whenever i duplicate one of the rgb layers, it isn't black and white like it is in ps. i'm also not sure how to have it turn into the alpha.
White balance. Shooting With my Canon 5D, shooting RAW, I choose Auto White balance. At the end I shoot a Gray-Card with the same Lighting that I had. Later I open the image with the Gray-Card inside the camera raw, and I select it with the white balance tool. then I get the perfect White Balance. I personally like the Gray-Card which has from very light gray to very dark gray. I'm still using Photoshop CS5. Now there are many products out there such as Color Checker. How I can get better color Balance or Color Correction using those 3rd party products. Also My Monitor is calibrated using Data Color spydare 3Elite.
View 3 Replies View RelatedIs there a way to quickly white balance pictures in photoshop? I know with other products you can click on something that is white or gray in the photo and it will automatically white balance the photo.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhat I want to be able to do is click on an area of a photo, and then tell paint.net that I want this to be WHITE - and adjust the rest of the photo accordingly. ie, an object photographed on a white background that is tinted due to incandescent lighting etc.
I know this feature exists in photoshop elements. Is it available in paint.net?
Set the white balance
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have read several article on the ability to us a gray card in a photo and then adjusting the white balance in Camera Raw or CSII. How do you achieve this?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI shot some photos (jpg's) outdoors with the white balance set on tungsten. I have access to PS CS and can navigate it pretty easily, but have little photographic experience and don't have a particularly good eye for color adjustments.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm new to Lightroom so bear with me. My problem lies in the import process: each time I import, a yellow tint (tungsten WB) is added to each photo, as if the white balance is being changed. I know that thumbnails are created in camera, but the photos look fine when Lightroom is "loading" them on the library screen, it is only when the "loading" message goes away that they look too yellow. I don't want to apply an import preset because I fear that each photo's problem is unique. When I use quicklook in finder, the images look fine. When I export as a jpeg from LR, the problem persists. Here's what I'm using:
Camera: Canon T2i (Color Space: sRGB)
Lightroom: Version 4.0
Computer: Macbook Pro, Snow Leopard
I've read that this could be caused by a corrupt color profile, but I'm not sure how to change this on a Mac and if it's appropriate to apply sRGB as a monitor profile.
I just bought a new computer and i have been running LR5 on a Lenovo b540 aio pc. i had no issues on this machine other than slow processing and lag due to insufficient memory and processor. my new machine is a standard desktop with a seperate monitor. when i installed LR5.3 and import files, they turn out to be a very "manilla envelope" color but not until after importing them. i dont understand why this is happening. it is probably something very simple that i am overlooking.
View 2 Replies View RelatedSo as soon as I import my files it automatically applies one of my presets and I have to manually undo them. I don't remember ever setting this up.
View 1 Replies View Relatedusing the White Balance Tool in Camera RAW.I have sometimes heard that I need to select a naturally white point (as opposed to a specular / highlight point); but I have also heard that I need to select a neutral gray point.
View 2 Replies View RelatedMy preferred medium for photography is underwater, so it is crucial the white balance is set to the area and depth of the shot. When I use Photoshop CS3 to develop the shot in RAW, as soon as I click on to the shot in bridge it instantly reverts back to the default white balance, In UK fresh waters this usually means a strong green cast.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI lost the white balance presets.
all that shows in the menu is
As Shot
Auto
Custom
Everything else is gone. not tungsten, no flash, nothing.
How do I get these back?
I have a photo i am enhancing in which my point of focus at center (an arch structure) is being colored by artificial holiday lighting and there are sodium-vapor street lamps surrounding it on adjacent streets with the foreground dark asphalt and objects (I used a wide angle) having a yellowish hue. I want to know what is the best way to localize the center arch, leave that with it's own adjustment (of 5600K) and bring down the rest of the image with the yellow-orange tinge down to 2500-3200K (or otherwise have them look like nice xenon or white fluorescent lamps) with good blending (so the intersection of both lighting does not look stilted) and while keeping the same tonal range. Global adjustments are just not doing it for me here. Layers and blending? Gradients? What would you recommend? Please post anything that also relates to adjusting for conflicting lighting locally and any limits on this.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am still baffled with matching the color - tint .
If I copy paste something on another image . I get crude red -green-blue + - world adjustments . I sample the color numbers to match still no luck . The saturation / Hue adjustments are semi helpful .
I end up with a flat gray bluish skin tone , Is their a color temp lighting corrector , talking from my kodak paper-photo printing 70s flashback years.
click path to fine tint / color correction for skin tones?
on my LR 3. IT used to be right under "Histogram" and above "Tone Balance" in Deveolop and now it is simply gone! I dont know if it was because of software updates or ?
View 4 Replies View RelatedLR3.4.I have a whole selection of photos that were taken at an event where there was 2 types of lighting, so the people in the back of the shots have a warm orangey glow and the people at the front have the day light. What would be ideal option to adjust the white balance on 2 separate areas, but I can't seem to find this in Lightroom? is it possible or will I need to export 2 versions and merge in photoshop etc?
View 2 Replies View RelatedIs it possible to change a setting or preference in Lightroom so that the white balance selector tool will give a 0-255 value reading, instead of a 0-99 value? Having that option would allow users to better correlate their readings with what will show up once the images is analyzed with Photoshop's eyedropper tools and info window.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI quite often need to process digital photo's on CD ROM. By which I mean I am asked to duplicate CDs with sometimes hundreds of pics on. In doing so I notice that the original pictures are invariably poor colour and brightness. When I apply an Image Adjust Auto levels function the picture is wonderfully transformed as to how it should look. If I spend time on each individual photo it takes ages to do and no longer is cost effective.
I like to keep the client happy and so, is there a way I can create a 'droplet' or 'batch' or indeed anything that will allow me to apply Auto Levels or Auto Contrast to say, 200 images at a time? I am using Photoshop 6.1 at present.
Having just loaded 10,000+ scanned negatives in LR 4.3, I am applying Auto Tone as a starting point for development settings. I have selected all images in Grid View, right-clicked to Develop Settings...Auto Tone. I can then go to the Develop page and Auto Tone is shown in every images History.the Auto button is still visible and I can click on it and get different [generally better] settings.
Is there a reason why Auto Tone applied to multiple photos produces different development settings from when it is applied individually to each photo?
I'm basically trying to match the colour of the single jar shot to that of the jars in the colour reference file (the one with loads of jars), so it looks as if the single shot could be a closeup from the group shoot.
There's a batch of these single jar shots so I was looking for an adjustment I could do once and then apply uniformly to the rest.
My attempt was to create a series of adjustment layers that worked for one image and then apply that to the rest, but I couldn't come up with the correct combination of adjustments that matched the reference.
I'm confident with doing colour adjustments on the items inside the jar so you needn't worry about that, it's more the overall white balance / slight lessening of shadow underneath the shelves / shine of the glass jars / warmth and cleanliness of the picture's tone.
The single shots will cycle through as a GIF, so it's important to look as if it's just the content of the jars changing, rather than the entire shot - hence needing a single solution that was applicable to all pictures.