In CS4`s advanced OpenGL settings there is an option called "compositing" (hope that`s right, because I have a german version). There are the options "gamma-corrected", "linear" and "none".
View 1 RepliesMy current system includes Windows XP (32bit) SP3 with 4 Gb Ram, ATIV4900 FirePro video card, Dell U2711 monitor (supports 10bit), Version 8.85.7.3 of the catalysts drivers.
I have enabled 10 bit within Catalyst and went to Preferences Performance to enable the 'Advanced" mode of OpenGL only to find it grayed out. I searched and read where others had had similar issues though most were on a 64 bit system. OpenGL version is 6.14.10.10795.
My computer is using the Dell provided driver for the U2711 monitor.I am also using the display port cable to drive the monitor at its native 2560 x 1440 resolution.
I am a casual Photoshop user and a friend uses my computer to print photos. I want to set a new preset so that things like paper profile, size, orientation and transparency are set. What I am not sure about is the colour profile that is used in the advanced settings. Is this the printer/paper or monitor? I use a Spyder 4 Express to calibrate my monitor.
View 9 Replies View RelatedJust wondering about the option for 30 bit Display in Advanced Graphics Processor Settings, Should I enable this option, my monitor is a Dell P2210 and what exactly will this do?
Here's a screenshot of what I talking about, I have a GeForce GTX660 2GB Graphics Card.
For anyone having horrible Brush lag, please try the following settings and report your findings in this thread.
After much configuring and comparing CS4 vs CS3, I found that these settings do improve CS4's brush lag significantly. CS3 is still faster, but these settings made CS4 brush strokes a lot more responsive.
NOTE: these do not improve clone tool performance, the best way to improve clone performance right now seems to be to turn off the clone tools overlay feature.
Perhaps Adam or Chris from Adobe could explain what is happening here. The most significant option that improved performance appears to be the "Use for Image Display - OFF". I have no idea what this feature does or does not do but it does seem to be the biggest performance hit. The next most influential setting seems to be "3D Interaction Acceleration - OFF"
Set the following settings in Photoshop CS4 Preferences:
OpenGL - ON
Vsync - OFF
3D Interaction Acceleration - OFF
Force Bilinear Interpolation - OFF
Advanced Drawing - ON
Use for Image Display - OFF
Color Matching - ON
Black is not all black when encoded to mpeg2, making DVD's. Same as it was way back in 2005 and forward. At least on my TV set. Panasonic PAL. I these days have a new 42" flatscreen Panasonic compared to my old 4:3 "fat TV set" Sony Trinitron. The same experience... I want the same look, contrast and colors, as with the DV tape straight to the TV set, even if there, offcource, could be some artifacts from the encoding itself.
Here is my almost 6 years old thread on that problem.
There was a thread once, I can't find now. Seems to be erased. I have it on paper though. The subject was MPEG encoder settings in VS11+ The starter of it was Jack_HDV and replys came from vidoman, Ken Berry and etech6355. The tip in there was to add the Advance=1 in the uvs.ini file under the subject [viodriver]. I have tried this on the new Corel VS X4 but to no sucess. The mapstructure is also a bit different in W7, users vs. document and settings. The meaning with this added line was to get another button "advanced" under the tab "compression" and be able to change "primary colors" via a dropdown list.
how to do it in Corel VS? Is it maybe something that shouldn't be doable in VS, because of licence payment to the company Mainconcept who has done the encoder. VS should maybe only have the "light" version"? Just before this new thread I managed to encode with an older version of Canopus Procoder v.2, with perfect result as it comes to black and white and also a bit stronger colors. It's so much easier if we could get the same result withing VS.
How do I change the Default Advanced Separations Settings?
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhen I use the Smart Photo Fix command, and check Advanced Settings I see the black & white correction options, BUT I do NOT see the before & after left & right preview panes that are necessary to let me choose black & white & grey points on my image.
There seems to be another post/thread on this topic BUT unfortunately I cannot open that post: when I try I see the message: No post matches the time frame selected even though I have set this to ALL POSTS.
In my color separations in print preview the "use advanced settings" is disabled.
I have loaded cdr graphics suite 12 on my new laptop w/windows 7, and also on my old machine that I have loaded windows 7 on. Cannot register the program any more due to outdated version. problem exists on both computers.
There are other minor issues but this one I use regularly.
Since i bought a new machine, i've been having issues with the trial of Max 2012.Drivers, DirectX, etc. is all fully updates to the latest version, and Max started having these issues after (i think) a win7 update (I've attached a pic).
I've tried changing the settings to Direct3D and OpenGL, but the last one, makes it so Max crashes when opening (forcing me to change manually the config back to Direct3D), Aero is disabled by default too.
I have an image against a black background. It's actually a brass blow torch with a blue flame.
I want to cut it out without getting unnecessary black from the background in there.
use alpha channels to get the selection, but for some reason the black background keeps messing me up.
Even tho I've been working with Adobe Photoshop since version 5.5 I still lack the knowledge of making more advanced paths. So far i can make simple paths by using the Pen tool, however i've come to a point where i wanna make a path looking like a tatoo, so i can use it in my webgraphics without having to worry about pixels getting smudgy when resizing.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI'm sure you didn't understand what i meant by "advanced" but i created a video of me saying everything i'm trying to make.
it's forbidden for me to post links till i post 5 messages. ok then, so here's the deal. i have a 10 seconds video clip with some folks dancing in it. i wanna put my friends heads as a still picture instead of original ones in the video. so bodies and whole video will keep moving but the heads will be still pictures.
remove the majority of marks, white areas, improve the texture of the background, and the clothing & facial features (even colour).
Also the bike wheels have grungy white marks.
I am aware of, and have experience of using the clone tool, but for me it doesnt seem to work too well here (which may be down to my skill level)
I'm trying to figure out how to do the following:
Mouseover a slice -> Change visibility of some layers
When I 'save optimized' ImageReady is saving ALL the slices in the image, not the ones that require updating. So basically if I have N mouseovers, I have N versions of each slice, even though they are identical (with different filenames)
I only want certain slices to be updated during these mouseovers. How can I do this?
about advanced blending modes, it shows how to use the the "blend if this layer is " and "blend if layer underneath is.."
It starts with some basic textures, an eye and a clock and the result is a mix of these pictures with a clock where the eyeball is supposed to be.
how to use displacement maps, the crucial thing about this tutorial was that a the map was used on a green image which provided a very nice "closeup of a green leaf"-effect with streaks and lines.
With the incredible amount of talent that exists on this site, with the "carded" pros and the guys who have been around the block and have hit every curb, it seems to me that a new forum catagory could be opened. "Tips from the Pros" or some such.
I know the Advanced area exists, and is rarely visited, and is good for those already 'advanced', but maybe something up front in the forum would help the average guy or gal. I've been doing digArt for about ten years or so, and there is not a day goes by, where I don't pick up something from someone else, new to the medium or not.
I've got a background layer which is a solid colour, and the layer on top of that is a picture with some advanced blending done to it.
When I try to flatten, the picture just reverts to how the picture looked before the advanced blending was done.
I've tried collecting it all in a single layer with no luck. I've tried making a postscript of the PSD file but that bombs in distiller. I've tried combinations of other single-colour layers below.
I want to create a series of photomanipulated images that I would title "Be Extraordinary." Basically, I want every picture to be a picture of me doing some sort of extraordinary thing, leaning more towards sci-fi stuff. I already have an idea for one of me wielding a lightsaber, but after that, I've run out of ideas for anything I know how to do in Photoshop. I had an idea for me creating some sort of energy shield, but I simply don't know how to really create that effect in Photoshop.
View 3 Replies View RelatedIve been using photoshop for a long time, and am familiar with batch processing. I have over 500 photos that I need to resize. Some are very tall and some are wide. Is there a way to make photoshop resize a image depending on what its aspect ratio is?
If I make an action with image size I can set width to 300px, which works fine for wide images. The tall images though are still to tall. If I do the same thing but instead specify height then alot of my images will be to wide. If I specify both height and width then my proportions will get messed up. Any ideas? I have to do this alot, and with ever increase number of images. Im sure someone else has solved this problem before.
blending modes for photoshop 7.0.
Im not only talking about the 2 sliders, but about the 'knockout' pulldown menu, and the 5 checkboxes beneath it.
I have some problems in my photoshop CS6 extended, I found out that the 3D menu work only in basic drawing mode.
But in normal or advanced drawing mode, the 3D menu is grayed out. I use ATI Radeon.
How to select a part of an image for masking based on either color saturation or hue or a certain color (not RGB value but rather a color group), so that I can transform the selection to the Alpha channel.
For example, if I have a photo of a red car on a multi-color, complex background where there are NO other red colors exist on the picture, other than the body of the car, then such selection (that I need help with) suppose to select all shades of red on the photo, which is only the body of the car.
I need to create a PNG file where certain part of an image (like a body of that car) would be gray-scale alpha channel, so that by placing the image file on colored background - that would simply paint the car into another color.
How to select a part of an image for masking based on either color saturation or hue or a certain color (not RGB value but rather a color group), so that I can transform the selection to the Alpha channel.
For example, if I have a photo of a red car on a multi-color, complex background where there are NO other red colors exist on the picture, other than the body of the car, then such selection (that I need help with) suppose to select all shades of red on the photo, which is only the body of the car.
I guess you know what I'm trying to do, right? I need to create a PNG file where certain part of an image (like a body of that car) would be gray-scale alpha channel, so that by placing the image file on colored background - that would simply paint the car into another color.
For an art class at my high school, I want to create a series of photomanipulated images that I would title "Be Extraordinary." Basically, I want every picture to be a picture of me doing some sort of extraordinary thing, leaning more towards sci-fi stuff.
I already have an idea for one of me wielding a lightsaber, but after that, I've run out of ideas for anything I know how to do in Photoshop. I had an idea for me creating some sort of energy shield, but I simply don't know how to really create that effect in Photoshop.
The way i usually watermark my images is making a droplet from the action in the image attached. But it only works well if the image sizes are not drastically different from each other. i.e. : 5x7 , 7x5
now i have about 200 images all different sizes. i.e. : 5x7, 5x2, 3x4, 10x8, 2x2.. etc.
Im looking for a way to make an action that would recognize the image size and then re-size the watermark to 30% of the image size.
Is there any way in the PSE 8 Organizer to do an advanced exif search perhaps by typing something special into the search box? I want to find all my photos that have an exif "Orientation" that is not "normal". The Landscape/Portrait Orientation search in "Find -> By Details (metadata)" will not give me what I want.
View 3 Replies View RelatedBasically I am trying to warp a pattern about it's centre point, in a radial manor (the pattern file is obviously square in photoshop). If you imagine the pattern on a planar surface, the warp that I am trying to achieve is as if one were to grab the central point of the surface and pull it directly away from the face - see image below for visual aid...
I'm trying to achieve a pattern that is a flat file, but looks like you are looking directly at the end of a pointy end of a cone that used to be a flat surface with the pattern on it.
Has a fix become available for the 'advanced dialog box' option in PSE 9? My partner has just changed his laptop and now realises that PSE 9 won't give him the option of pre-selecting photos, due to the smaller screen. The laptop won't display at 800 res. The height of the screen is too small. He's annoyed because this problem will affect all users of PSE 9 who get a new laptop with a smaller height screen, which is most new laptops!! It ran perfect on the old Sony Vaio..... till the graphics card went seriously dead! Has this problem been resolved with PSE 10 or 11? If so, it might be worth upgrading to one of those.
View 9 Replies View RelatedBrand new computer, 32-bit XP, 4GB RAM (sorry, but too many of my important programs don't run on 64-bit), Intel 9650 quad, 3.0 GHz, RAID array, etc. And an ATI 4850 graphics card with 512 MB DDR3 RAM (on the Adobe tested list) and it doesn't work properly with OpenGL turned on: brush lines do not complete until I start another line, or click someplace in the image (which creates another line!); preview for the stamp tool doesn't work (there is no preview); 'ghost' panels over the image stay there even when they're moved (a mouse click is needed to make them disappear). Animated zoom works (nice feature), flick panning does (not really needed), birdseye view does (also nice feature), rotate canvas does (not needed that I can see), pixel grid (might be useful); I haven't tried the others. Bottom line: if I turn OpenGL off, it works fine, but those features are absent. I've been updating my drivers as ATI has (they've done several in the past month or so),
I don't know how the beta testing was done or how this card could be on the approved list, but someone fell short.
Konfiguration Dell
Win XPpro SP3,
CPU Pentium 3 3 Hz,
3GB RAM,
Graphic card: ATI FireGL V3100 128Mb with driver 8.543.0.0 ( 08october 2008)
Latest directX
The PS CS4 do not recognise the graphic card and GPU settings are grayed out in Preferences> performance.