I have upgraded to both Lightroom 4 and Adobe CS6 (both 64 bit Windows versions) recently and have been enjoying the new features. I have become more and more aware of posterization when exporting from Lightroom4 to Photoshop
Something I first thought was simply over processing in lightroom has turned out to be an issue with Photoshop. I have been following a few threads in the forum regarding a similar issue with CS5
The solution appears to be, set the the Advanced Settings of the GPU to basic. Which removes the posterization completely. I have a some questions :
1) Setting the GPU to basic, am I getting the most out of the graphics card? I have a NVIDIA GEForce, GTX 550 Ti/PCIe/SSE2 .Im not sure in the grand scheme of things if this is cutting edge technology but it has served me well while on the older version of lightroom and CS6.
2) My workflow is using lightroom for hi-res RAW processing and editing in Photoshop. Setting the graphic CPU to basic will I notice a performance drop?
3) Reading the forums, on basic the CPU handles color management. Does this have an impact on the performance
Im happy to run the GPU at basic, I'm just trying to determine for the future if I would need to invest in a higher spec graphic card to move to advanced settings. But if there is no real gain running in advanced mode using this kind of hardware I can stop looking/considering an upgrade.
I'm aware that one "should" work in 16 bit and I ALWAYS do for my own stuff but for clients, I'm very frequently limited to 8 bit images because that is all they have to supply. Most civilians just don't know about this stuff.
For instance, I'm doing the graphics for a CD cover right now. Luckily the client knew enough to send me images that were large enough to work with but all of the different source images were in 8 bit. So, I'm now on the home run stretch as far as finishing this job but I have an image that could REALLY use some punching up in the way of curves or levels adjustments. I'm finding that even with what I would consider to be very modest adjustments, the resultant image ends up with a histogram with a whole lot of pretty major holes the entire height of the histogram. Now, I see absolutely no posterization on the screen but I've read that even in that case, it could very well show up in the print.
So, here I sit after doing about 10 hours of work on this project and can't really finish up the last couple minutes of work necessary for good contrast and color without screwing up the histogram. I don't want their prints to possibly be posterized but I also don't want to send them a fairly flat looking image.
I am shooting RAW and opening in Photoshop CS3 with AdobeRGB profile. My desktop NEC LCD screen displays the images correctly. I recently purchased a HP Pavilion dv9910us laptop, and it exhibits some posterization, even at the best screen angle. I'm wondering if this is a problem I will be able to solve or if it is a limitation of the hardware.
17 in. WXGA screen nVidia GeForce 7150M (shares memory) 3 GB RAM AMD Turion 64 X2 TL-60 Vista 32 bit SP1
Color is set to 32 bit, Powerplan to High performance. The monitor has no specific profile. It is set to generic PNP. My older SpyderPro doesn't work with Visa, so I can't create a profile for the monitor (unless I upgrade to Spyder3.
I specifically chose a laptop that had a graphics subsystem, so this posterization is disappointing to me.
I just got a new laptop (Apple Mac book pro with OSX 10.8 Mountain Lion) and a fresh installation of Adobe CS6 and Photoshop is practically unusable. The issues are that there is weird color banding across the full size image (it looks fine in the thumbnail preview in the ‘navigator’ tab). These bands move and change. Next, when I use the selection tool it selects weird shapes. And if I attempt to fill it, the fills are not the color, nor the transparency nor the shapes that I set. That means masks can’t be used and pretty much no editing is possible. Some blog posts describe a similar problem, and propose changing the ‘Performance’ preferences .
Photoshop CS5 v12.1. Mac OS 10.6. I'm printing to an Epson R1800 printer.
Print. Choose Color Management. Choose Document. Choose "Photoshop manages color". Choose the correct printer profile that matches the paper I'm using. Choose Relative Colorimetric.
THEN, I click Print Settings...under the 4th drop downu I choose "Print setting..." again. Under "Basic" "color" and "Color settings" are grayed out as are some of the "Media Type" options.
Is this normal? The problem is my black and white prints are printing really badly. They have color tones. I've cleaned the nozzles on my Epson printer, done everything the print utility suggests. All the test prints look fine.
i recieved a prom pic from my daughter and i was going to print it and frame it, but 2 things happend.
The first one was that when i tried to print it it said it was tooooooo big 40inx60in so i resized it to 8.5x11 and it got very blurry, after about an hour i figured out how to get it sharp again (by accident) and forgot how i did it DOH!!! It was some kind of compairson with 4 of the same photo and resizeing the file from 9.5M to about 400kb and actualy adding some blur.
The next problem is when i printed it, it was so washed out it looked like an old 70's poloroid but on screen it looks great. Now I've read the color settings section but i think i might have set some settings wrong [U]and i don't think i fully understand what i'm reading . I know there are settings to either let photoshop take care of the printing or let the printer.Personaly i think i would like to let photoshop do it that way any email's or photo's i shoot will have a common baseline. The printer i'm using is an hp psc 2410 and the camera is a minolta dimage7i, is this a good camera / printer. I'm in adobe rgb(1998) mode and i think i saw somwhere in the printer software to choose between adobe rgb or the hp printer.Do these have to match.
Put simply how can i print it the way i see it on screen
I know ....long winded but i try to give all the info i can
I’m a long time Photoshop user but recently picked up LR4 to try to fine tune my workflow. I’ve noticed that after importing new files (RAW, I haven’t tried with jpg) into my library as I scroll through them (1-up, not in grid) the preview comes up and then after a second or so the WB changes to a much colder image.
Does LR4 initially preview at specific settings and then change to the individual image settings? Even if so, the final images seem very cool and I feel like I have to up the temp more than I should have to. My previous workflow was to sort in Bridge and then use ACR to import to Photoshop. I feel like I did much less tweaking of my WB this way. I feel like I’m starting from square one with LR4.
I'm having some problems with drawing paths in Illustrator. Everytime I draw a new path, this new path shows up in the standard settings. The 'brush defenition' turns back to 'basic' and the 'variable width profile' back to 'uniform'. It would save me a lot of time if I could change those standard settings into what I prefer.
When the 'up' arrow appears in a thumbnail and comes up with the message:
The metadata for one or more of these photos has been changed by another application. Should Lightroom import settings from disk or overwrite disk settings with those from the catalog?
What exactly does that mean? This seems to happen every time I export an image to PS (CS5) and return to LR. What exactly has changed? What settings are being imported if I choose 'import settings from disk'.
I installed and, when given a choice of extensions to associate with PSP, I selected all. However, later I changed my mind. Had to uninstall PSP and reinstall. This time, I did not associate .bmp or .jpg files. However, I noticed my .bmp icon had changed a little. Still, it worked OK, so I just let it go. Now, I used IrfanView to save a .bmp pic in .jpg format to My Documents. When I went to view the .jpg file, it has the window icon and I'm given the "Open With" option (have to pick some program to open it). I can't seem to get the .jpg files back to where I can just double-click them to open. **I hope I've explained this OK**
Anyway, since I have a legit copy of PSP 7.0, I can reinstall any time. Right now, it's still uninstalled, but I don't know how to get the .jpg files back to where they used to be.
With some posts they insert a image, the only thing I see is a box with yellow around it and a red x in the middle of box. How do I get to see images that others have posted?
somehow my settings got changed and i can only go back once. im talking when i make a mistake i can only delete the mistake once and then it chanes to redo instead of undo. how can i swithc it back to unlimited undo.
I am using PS7 and I am saving a transparent image for use in Flash MX. I need to preserve it. What version of PNG should I use? 8? 24? The best quailty while keeping the file size down is the best.
I have canon 70D photoshop cs5/6 lightroom 5 camera not supported downloaded DNG still won't open raw files even though I have put settings right in DNG 8.2
We are currently using G7 Workflow for our profile. I have a couple of questions concerning the color settings.
1.We are also not able to hold these settings even once we leave it as "Custom". It defaults back to U.S. Sheetfed Coated Profile. 2. When trying to set color setting with our profile, it says it is not supported by this version of Photoshop (CS6). It will set this to "Custom" instead of G7 Workflow. What can we do to fix this issue? Please see below for the screen captures.
Being unwilling to mortgage my future to CC, I have taken the plunge and bought CS6 while it is still available. This is on Windows 7.Is it feasible to migrate settings from CS2 to CS6 and if so how do I do it? I am not sure whether CS6 installation will automatically uninstall CS2 or require me to do it.
I changed my Color Settings in the Edit menu to 'Best Workflow CS4' which apparently synchronized my color settings, but the printed colors are now muddy and have lost their vibrancy.
It is a US orientated setting for US inks. I am in the UK and use Ilford Smooth Pearl Paper with the appropriate color profiles loaded. What are the recommended color settings for printing in the UK?? Is it Europress 2 which is what I'm now trying out?
I have started to have probelms with the printing pictures using the CS6 Print Settings box.
After I have selected all the appropriate Printer setups and set the Print size to 8.5x11 both in Printer Setting and in the CS6Scaled Print Size box I get the below Print Preview.Both when I manually enter Scale,H&W and when I check the "Scale to fit Media Box".
It leaves the top and bottom with a 1/2" white border at top/bottom.
In Adobe's Bridge Reference, it says, "Here are some tips for automating the processing of camera raw image files:When you record an action, first select Image Settings from the Camera Raw Settings menu [icon appears here] in the Camera Raw dialog box. In this way, the settings particular to each image (from the Camera Raw database or sidecar XMP files) are used to play back the action."
Problem is, I cannot find the Camera Raw Settings menu anywhere in the Camera Raw dialog box, and I cannot find anywhere in the documentation where it tells you how to do what they're recommending here. I'm confused as to whether the action recording takes place in Photoshop (most likely), Bridge, Camera Raw, or the Image Processor. I was under the impression that, of these four, actions can only be created in Photoshop, but now I'm not so sure, since this paragraph says that while the action is being recorded it has to be selected from the Camera Raw dialog box. WHERE DOES ONE FIND "Image Settings" IN THE CAMERA RAW DIALOG BOX?
I found the Image Settings selection, but it is still unclear how I can incorporate it into an action. Can I invoke the Camera Raw dialog box while recording an action?
i click on the PRINT SETTINGS button and the PRINT button at bottom of window goes from blue to white but i don't get to the SETTINGS page.i can print the page, but it prints without my being able to change settings
try to record those steps for action: Image>Image Size --> then change the resolution (a lower res p.e. 50dpi from a 300dpi pic) but want to keep checked the other setings (Constrain porportions and resample image) and click OK --> and stop recording the action keeps the height you have as result from your first (recording) pic !!! and make the next time you use the action all the pics the same height.
After slicing an image, choosing Save For Web, and then choosing one of the jpg presets from the drop down list, then clicking on Save, it shows me in the next "Save Optimized As" window that the Save As Type file type is gif - and there is no jpg on the list that I can choose. Why is my ability to save as jpg slices gone? I've not made any changes to the default settings and I'm not sure how to get it back... I'm only moderately skilled at Photoshop (skilled enough to create my web site mockups and slice and so on...) but if someone could point me in the right direction, or to a tutorial for this process that would be great. Am using Photoshop CS (version 8 or 9?)
On this same note, I have noticed that often the slices (when they worked before) will have weird names such as Layout_12-13 or some such "overlapping" of slice numbers although, from what I can tell the slices do not actually overlap... what is THIS all about?
im currently workin between photoshop and flash but am havin problems with the size of my files.
I am saving my images form photoshop - for example size 700px x 800px. and then set my stage size within flash to 700px x 800px, but when i import the file into flash they are not set to the values and are a lot smaller?
We have just purchased the Adobe Creative Suite 3 Master Collection, but there appears to be no PDF Optimization Settings as per the following link when I save from Photoshop for example: https://createpdf.adobe.com/cgi-feeder.pl/help_cpdf?BP=&LOC=en_US
A previous place of work had these available and proved to be invaluable. Is there any way to enable these?
